You can download the Official Fuji HS10 manual in PDF format by clicking here (this manual is provided by Fujifilm).
If you’d rather download the manual from Fujifilm’s website, then go to the HS10 support page located here: www.fujifilm.com
Quick Guide to Photography
If you’re looking for a simple and easy to understand photography guide, then I highly recommend the
Digital Photography Book by Scott Kelby.
This book will show you how to quickly setup your Fuji HS10 (or any camera) for the best possible shot without a lecture about technical terms like aperture, exposure, and depth of field.
He currently has three volumes of the Digital Photography Book and each one has hundreds of quick tips to help you shoot in many different situations. As I mentioned above, each shooting topic is covered in one page or less which is great for beginners who just want to start shooting.
I highly recommend the Digital Photography Book as a great beginners guide to photography, click here for a quick link to Scott’s books.
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Hey Moose. Thanks for the tip on the photography book by Scott Kelby. Amazon.co.uk are currently selling it for £6.58! They’ve also got Volume 2 and Volume 3 for sale. Is it worth buying all three?
Kt
Katie,
The first book will walk you through some of the very basic types of photography (landscapes, sports, portraits, travel, etc…). The other books talk about more advanced types of shooting (using flash, studio and product photography, ect…). I’d recommend all three, but you could easily start with volume one and work your way up to volume three at a later date.
- Moose
hi
i have received an hs10 for christmas but they have neglected to give me the beginners manual in english, i know you have the full 127 page version but is there any chance you could mail me the beginners 22 page manual in english?
thanks very much
dave pegg
looks like a very sensible and down to earth approach to photography .
Shame that the entire content of the book preview consisted of adverts for recommended cameras and equipment and a lengthly index.
I would have liked to see half a dozen pages of the main body of the book in order to be able to make a proper assessment prior to potentially buying another book to sit unused in my bookcase
Nick,
Are you referring to the Digital Photography Book by Scott Kelby? The reason I recommend this book to beginners is for the fact that it quickly shows them how to shoot in many different types of situations without explaining photography theory and principles. For intermediate to advance photographers, this book won’t provide any groundbreaking new tips or insights to photography. If you purchased on Amazon, they take back books up to 30 days after purchase…sometimes longer if you’re nice to customer service. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi Moose
Why oh Why did’nt I find your website before? Had to print the entire 150 pages with all the ink and paper used when I could have rung Fuji and got one free! The problem is that nowadays this seems to Happen with Most Mnfs why can’t they just include these manuals?
Think your website is great by the way as I’ve just moved up fron point and shoot.
Colin,
Welcome to the HS10 family…manufacturer’s are cutting down on printed materials and including the manuals on CD and via the web to reduce their costs.
- Moose
Regarding the full 150-page printed manual – I rang the Fujifilm hotline yesterday to enquire if such a thing was available – it arrived in the post this morning, free of charge :-)
Nice to see someone giving a proper service, even if I did have to wait 10 minutes for anyone to answer the hotline phone.
Bob,
Good to know that Fuji is still sending the manuals free of charge!
- Moose
They told me yesterday there is now a charge of 12.99+3.99 for s&h
Confused!! Reading different sites for advice on using the super macro on the HS10 reveals some requiring the zoom to be “fully out” (zoomed to the max I guess?) and others state that the full wide angle needs to be used.
Steve,
“Zooming out” is rotating the lens to the starting position or full wide-angle. You’ll see a little downward arrow on the HS10 LCD screen if you’re at any zoom level other than full wide-angle. This is basically telling you to zoom the lens out.
In regular macro mode, you can zoom out or into your subject. Hope that helps!
- Moose
1. I frequently find that, when using Macro or Supermacro, the lens will not focus. When I depress the button halfway, it simply moves completely out of focus, so blurred that it would be impossible to even identify the subject.
This is exactly the same response I get with my older Fujifine pix. Although, sometimes I can get the lens to focus, I have not been able to determine what, if anything, I did differently.
2. And when I do get the subject in focus, everything is in focus. Can’t determine how the throw the background out of focus.
Thank you,
Jade
Jade,
This is because the HS10 has a specific focusing range when in macro mode. I don’t know the exact figures, but when you’re in regular macro mode and you are unable to focus, you’ll need to back up from your subject or switch over to super macro mode.
When in super macro mode, you will have a very narrow range at which subjects will be in focus. Usually the closer you are the better. If you are too far back, the HS10 will not focus when in super macro mode.
I encourage you to check out my post on “How to take Great Close-ups with the HS10” for more information on macro shooting.
- Moose
Will the HS 10 make quality 8″ X 10″ prints? Thanks, Paul
Hi Paul,
Yes, the HS10 will print wonderfully at 8″x10″. Outdoor photos will look especially vibrant. When you start getting into some of the higher ISO values (ISO 400 or higher) you may start to see some “image noise” in your printed photos at 8″x10″.
Thanks for stopping by Paul!
- Moose
Moose – The HS10 is a remarkable high ISO device. I have “onscreen usable” – if size-reduced to 1280 by 1024 – better at 1024 x 768 – at ISO 3200 and 6400, on a very dull day, at 30x – also at 2x digital – virtual 60x. Obviously not ‘printable’ – but shareable if that was the only way to get the shot.
At ISO 800 the noise is surprisingly low – and ‘treatable’ at 1600. Compare review-site images at 800/1600 between HS10 and Canon SX30 – and say “blessings unto Fuji” – that they didn’t cram 14Mpix onto a 1/2.3 CCD…
To print from ISO 800/1600 JPEGs – yes, RAWs are MUCH more ‘de-noise-able’ – but if you’re suddenly grabbing some interesting event that occurs – you don’t always switch to RAW… Before working on JPEGs, other than for very minor adjustments – convert them to a “lossless” format – JPEG is a very “lossy” format.
Using Photoshop – PSD, Gimp – XCF, or if another program, TIFF.
You can then use Levels, Contrast and Brightness tools. Then use De-noise very gently. It’s better to use very small de-noise settings more than once, than one large dose. With small amounts – between applications, mag-up to 1200% or more to see how the reduction is going.
When the result is satisfactory – Sharpen. USM is best – and do that at low settings intially.
Save the PSD-etc image – and use a Copy to create JPEGs. If you’re going to reduce the size a lot to print – 3648 x 2736 to, say, 1024 x 768 – doing that to a JPEG won’t give best results.
Do the size reduction on a COPY of the Saved Lossless PSD-etc. Preferably do it in two stages – the file algorithms will cope better.
You can print from PSD or TIFF in Windows – using Gimp’s XCFs might not agree with the printer program. However, if using Gimp in Windows, it converts XCF to TIFF, very well.
Go through that a few times – and you might set up the HS10′s Custom mode to – say, as things you need to image suddenly might be moving – Shutter Priority, RAW, or RAW + JPEG, and ISO-200.
The ISO-200 is almost noiseless in the HS10 – but as things can happen suddenly – you might need to flip the Mode Dial to Custom, as you raise the camera, and shoot immediately.
Being at ISO 200 gives you more leeway on shutter speed without needing to adjust anything. If you set Photometry (metering) – to Spot, and Focus to Centre – Custom will save those, too. You can then get the target in metered focus – hold the shutter button half-down after the ‘beep’ – and recompose if you need to.
Spot metering and Centre focus is also good if you need to “separate” a target from surroundings – a bird in a tree with leaves and branches close by it, say.
Learn to do by feel, camera to face – selecting Manual Focus. When in MF – hold on the bird – and press the AE/AF-Lock button (the one below the Red video button – easily thumbed) – and that uses the AF-function to do an instant approximate focus. Then just “rock” the Focus Ring a few mm each way, to get sharpest focus.
You can have the ‘magnified’ Focus Check centre block, or turn that off. Practise a bit – and the MF becomes very fast and easy to use.
Dave.
David,
Fantastic tutorial! Enjoyed reading everything you had to say. I’m sure this will help many beginners out there. Like I said before, gonna have to start putting you on the payroll. :)
- Moose