Howdy and welcome to Fuji HS10 Tips for Beginners! My name is Moose Montana and I created this online guide to share tips, advice and recommendations with new HS10 owners all across the world. If you have any questions about the HS10, just post a comment to the Fuji HS10 forum and I’ll get back to you lickety split. :)
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Hi Moose.
I am trying to get some shots using a zoom burst effect. Could you help me with the best settings to apply to get this effect.
Many Thanks
Ali
Hello Moose,
I’d like to forward a picture to your site. The picture was made at a local football game. During my film days, I used to shoot sports with a Nikon motordrive, often using a 180mm/2.8 lens. The usual setup for football was Tri-x rated at 1200ASA, 500@F/4. I made shots with the HS10 on 3fpm in Continuous, 800@7.1, high pixel res., color N. The results weren’t too bad. One issue I noted which Fuji should be aware of: Some kind of recessed eyepiece to shade ambient light would be a huge help. The sun was directly overhead, and I was constantly trying to shade the camera to keep the display from going dark. Pricier hardware usually come with either a eyecup, or recessed eyepiece. I noted that the camera would come off continuous mode anytime the picture display was selected – I’d prefer the photographer have that decision. The Fuji lenshade was very helpful in preventing unwanted flare. Another suggestion: redesign the shutter button to accept a release cable. I’m using my HS10 as a bridge camera until a more expensive system fits my budget. With a few changes, the HS10 might actually make a nice studio camera. The 1.04 software upgrade seemed to make a noticable difference in color rendition, and the fold-out viewing screen would be nice for doing tabletop product shots. Regards – js
All, I just got my HS10, and have been away from photography from a few years. One of my interest is to shot sport – particulary Capoeira classes – brasilian martial art with lots of kicks, jumps and acrobatic movements….any advice?
Thank you all
Moose !! Help !!
I’m really having a good time with my HS10 !!
I hope you are ready for Christmas !!
I have been having good luck but I admit most of my shots are out of doors with lots of light !! With Christmas coming I am practicing my indoor shots !! I read that it is wise to shut off the IS and put the camera on a 2 second delay !! I have printed out the HS10 manual but I cannot find how to shut off the IS on either the “Shooting Menu” or the “Set-Up” In advance I want to thank you for all your help and wish you and yours a Very Merry Christmas !! Cheers, Barry
With the HS10 it’s extremely difficult for me to take a sharp photo from a distance even when I’m using a tripod. Also most of the indoor photos I take come out very noisy. Could it be that the problems I’m having due to a lack of sufficient lighting? I have seen a lot of great sample photos taken with the HS10 but I just can’t get that kind of quality out of it for myself. How can I take clearer, sharper photos with the HS10?
Dear Moose,
Lets take for example, the most common type of photos – of people. Lets take a wedding for example. Does one have to adjust AE, AF or AE C-S-M or exposure compensation and the other advanced techniques on such ocassions? I attended a wedding recently and took photos using the Program AE mode mostly. The only adjustment I made was to the ISO (between 100 and 400). I did not use the flash much. I am not exactly awed by the results. Is there any special setting with the above that I can use for photographing people indoors?
SD,
Without getting into a long explanation of photography principles, I can tell you the easiest way to capture portraits or groups shots is to enable aperture priority mode (A on the mode dial) and select the lowest available f/number. In addition to this, you’ll want to zoom into your subject as much as possible. This creates a shallow depth of field. A shallow depth of field will isolate your subject and create some background blur to make your images pop.
Many of the settings you mentioned are tools to help you properly expose a subject and to accurately lock focus. For portraits and group shots, I would enable AF-S (page 51 of the HS10 manual) and the center focus point (page 50 of the manual). Position the center focus point over your subject and half press the shutter button. The HS10 will correctly meter your subjects face and lock focus. Keeping the shutter button half-pressed, re-position the frame to get a composition that you’re happy with. Then fully press the shutter button.
These settings will apply to subjects both indoors and outdoors. When using zoom indoors, you’ll need to use a tripod (I like this one) in order to prevent camera shake and image blur. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Moose –
The tripod you linked too appears to be out of stock. What other one that is $50 and under and that is a good tripod for both indoor and outdoor, good for Macro and good for long shots.
Thanks,
Jeffery
Jeffery,
Yup, its a very popular tripod for beginners…go with the Davis & Sanford voyager lite tripod (see it here: B&H Photo). It’s basically the same exact tripod, just re-branded for Davis & Sanford. Best of luck!
- Moose
Dear Moose,
I’ve had the HS10 for about a month. Now, while I am able to understand the use of ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed I cannot understand the use of options such as AE, AF and AF C-S-M and AE/AF LOCK. I feel that the manual is too brief. Can you please tell me in simple terms how I will know what option to use and where?
SD,
The AE and AF options are there to help you achieve proper metering and focus in many different types of shooting situations. Let me know what types of subjects or scenes you’re shooting and I can give a better answer. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Moose !!
3 weeks ago I went for a trip to Orlando and picked up My HS10 !!
I ordered it from Amazon and couldn’t be happier !! I ordered the Case Logic case you recommended and it is working well !! In three weeks I have taken many shots and haven’t missed one !! I also ordered two Hoods — one rubber and one rigid tulip !! The tulip would not fit so I ” modified ” it and it is now in the garbage !! The folding rubber one gives me a black mask in the corners when the lens is in wide angle !! I replaced them both with a CPL Filter and it seems to be working well !! I would like to add a Bayonet mount Filter but the FujiFilm website does not show one !! Can you tell me where I can find a FujiFilm supplied one ?? Cheers, Barry
Barry,
Unfortunately Fuji didn’t make one compatible with the HS10, probably due to the extreme zoom range of the HS10 lens. While it’s not always the best method, I try to use my hands whenever possible as a make-shift lens hood. Best of luck!
- Moose
Hey Moose. I found your site while surfing the net looking for tips on the HS10. I just got mine and am keen to hear your best suggestion or set up if I want to take watersports action shots preferably with multiple shots per second, like sports function on an SLR. Obviously, for this, the zoom will be well in also.
I look forward to hearing back from you. You have some great tips.
Cheers
Arnim
Arnim,
You’ll want to enable shutter priority mode (S) and select a shutter speed between 1/500 and 1/1000. Next, you’ll want to enable the continuous shooting (burst mode) which can be found on page 43 of the HS10 manual. There are a couple different burst rates available. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Moose !! You Devil !! Where do you get all the knowledge about our beloved HS10 ??
My experience was years ago with a film SLR and the pased few years with a PowerShot a590 !!
My HS10 is on the way from Amazon !!
When I use the A590 I like to put it on ” Cloudy ” !! It maks each color dense and nice !! I can’t find ” Cloudy ” on all of the literature I have been reading !! What am I to do ??
Cheers, Barry.
Moose !! I have just read page 47 of the manual about ” Exposure Compensation ” !! I am now enlighten !! It gives you one small idea how much I must learn !!
How is beautiful Montana ? It has been a few years since I was there !!
Cheers, Barry
Howdy Barry,
Yes, the ‘cloudy’ trick does warm the overall image color. You can do the same with the HS10 by selecting the ‘WB’ button and rotating the command dial to the cloudy icon which is meant for subjects int he shade. Best of luck!
- Moose
Barry,
Montana is a beautiful state, it’s also my last name! I’m currently living in Bishop, CA near the Eastern Sierra mountains which are gorgeous this time of year. Happy shooting!
- Moose
December 13, 14 – Geminids Meteor Shower. Considered by many to be the best meteor shower in the heavens, the Geminids are known for producing up to 60 multicolored meteors per hour at their peak. The peak of the shower this year should occur on the night of December 13 and morning of the 14th, although some meteors should be visible from December 6 – 19. Some estimates say there could be as many as 120 meteors an hour visible from dark-sky locations. The radiant point for this shower will be in the constellation Gemini. The Moon will set early in the evening setting the sky up for a spectacular show. Best viewing is usually to the east after midnight.
OK, I’ll be on the beach in the Caribbean on these dates with my new HS10 and want to give night-time exposure a try (1st ever try).
I have a new Proline tripod and figure where’s a better spot to enjoy an evening “fishing” for some meteor pics…
Any advice for a beginning, yet aspiring photographer???
Thanks,
Scott
Sorry for not being concise, I want to try some time-lapse (???) shots.
Maybe a Pina Colada (or two) in duration. ;-)
Scott
Scott,
You lucky son of a gun! Sounds like a great time…wish I could go. Here’s how I would setup my HS10…
Once you’ve done all of the above, you can snap away. The settings will remain the same for each photo. After taking 5 to 10 shots, playback the images on the LCD screen and zoom in to check focus and to see if you’ve captured any meteors. Best of luck!
- Moose
i was just wondering ….they say Nikon and fujifilm are like brothers and sister using the same technology.
My question is can the Nikon SB400 flash be mounted and use on my Fujifilm HS10..
Thanks in advance
Regards
Zul,
There’s no way to control the power of the SB400 flash when mounted to your HS10. Check out my post on recommended external flashes for the HS10.
- Moose
Hello Zulhilmi,
Do read what Moose has recommended.
I too have also posted some recommendations for external flash guns on this blog. You will have to go through the comments.
Fuji film guys I had written to have recommended Nikon SB-800 or above. Then there is Metz, but only some models are compatilble. I had posted the link to this site as well.
Cheers !!
Nauzer,
Thanks for sharing! :)
- Moose
thanks guys for the info….it has been very helpful in the quest of which flash can be use
cheers
All,
I have been trying to take some great snaps with the HS10 of the moon. They have come quite good, but thought of checking with you guys to see if anyone has the best ‘right’ settings for this one. Let me know.
Thanks!
Tomcat,
Here’s a couple tips…
1. Place your HS10 on a tripod (I like this tripod for beginners)
2. Enable aperture priority mode (‘A’ on the mode dial)
3. Select an aperture of f/5.6 or higher
4. Select an ISO of 100
5. Enable ‘Spot” metering as this will correctly meter the moon so you can pick up all the craters and astronauts :)
6. Enable the self timer so you can get your hands off the camera to ensure your image come out tack sharp
Hope that helps!
- Moose
Will give a try today. Hope the sky is clear!
Tomcat,
Best of luck with your shoot! :)
- Moose
Moose! You ‘D’ man!
I got some amazing shots of the moon last weekend. Been a long wait for the sly to get clear. Its raining here in India, so it’s kinda tough to get a clear sky. Thank you so very much for the tips and config. Next stop – Venus :-).
Cheers!
Tomcat,
Fantastic shot! Sounds like you’re getting the hang of it. :)
- Moose
Has anyone tried showing photos on TV taken with the HS10.
I popped out the SD card and inserted into a USB card reader and attached to an LG Blue Ray player with USB port that is capable of showing photos but the unit did not recognize the Fujifilm HS10 photos on the SD card.
Joe,
You might try asking this question in the HS10 forum to get more responses…do you have a SD or SDHC memory card? If it’s an SDHC, make sure your Blue Ray Player can support it. Did you receive any error messages when trying to playback the images?
- Moose
Hi Joe,
why dont you instead connect your HS-10 directly to the TV AV input with the cord ?
Rgds/Nauzer
Nauzer,
Good suggestion! :)
- Moose
Dear Moose and all friends of our HS-10 Blog,
For the benefit of everyone, I got to know from Fuji Help dest that the following two external flash guns would be compatible with HS-10. Woctron 2800DSF and the Nikon sb800 or higher.
k rgds/Nauzer
Dear Moose (Capt) ,
I downloaded a movie shot with the HS10 on my PC and it plays only on Quick-Time. I had a CD burned of the same but my DVD player doesnt play this movie. So am kinda stuck to viewing it on PC only.
What do you recommend? What is the best way around this?
(ofcouse one way is to get a new DVD player which plays CDs burned with Quick-Time)
Tks / Rgds – Nauzer
Nauzer,
I’ve been a photographer all my life and only recently have I started experimenting with video…so I’m a bit new when it comes to video recording. I don’t think there’s any issues with your DVD player, I think you need to write the video file to a DVD disk instead of a CD disk. I know Quicktime has an export feature, but I think it’s only available with Quicktime Pro.
- Moose
Dear Moose,
just checking if there is a third party corded or wireless shutter release for the HS -10 ? I am currently on tour in Melbourne and have tried all possible camera stores including Tedds & Michaels and even the Camera exchange shops, but no one has any clue.
Have written to Fuji film Australia whether their RR-80 works with HS-10 and they said NO but did not respond to giving an alternative.
Most importantly – is the HS-10 geared to work with a IR or corded remote in the first place either through its “usb out” or the “DC- in” jack ?
Request any reader on this blog to also advice.
Thanks – Nauzer
Dear Moose,
Thanks, I received your reply to this in the Forum.
Regards, Nauzer
Hi Moose,
Very nice & helpful blog.
Moose, can you guide me on what are better tripods for HS10 (keeping in mind fully extended zoom lens also)? As HS10 has nice video features, should using fluid head be considered?
Thanks for your efforts
Usman
Usman,
My top two budget tripods are the…
- Moose
I received my September 2010 issue of Popular Photography, and lo and behold there was a review of the HS10. I felt that the review was a bit more anecdotal than the more technical reviews assigned DSLR’s. Actually I feel that the reviewers would rather be doing something else. There was nothing mentioned, pro or con that had not been addressed by Moose and some other contributors to this website with one exception. This was regarding the difficulty of keeping the buttons depressed while dialing the selector wheel. I haven’t had this difficulty, and never saw it mentioned here. All in all it was a fairly positive review even considering that the HS10 is seen as a poor cousin of the DSLR family.
Norman
Norman,
Thanks for the info!
- Moose
Thanks for you suggestion moose, one thing I wanted to ask from you is, when I shoot video on 1,000 frames I couldn’t get the proper light, any suggestions?
Have a good day
Madhur
Madhur,
Are you shooting outside (bright light) or indoors (low light)?
- Moose
Hi, I recently purchased a Fuji HS10. I have only taken a few quick automatic setting photos. Now, I am going through the manual to learn all of the details as to better utilize the camera. On page 38, it explains 3 flash settings, auto, forced flash and slow synchro. My camera menu only shows the first two options. I read about the slow synchro and was especially interested in it for early evening wildlife photos. Has there been a newer release of the HS10 and I received old stock? I really appreciate all the info I have found on your web site and am happy I have been fortunate enough to find it. THANK YOU.
Karen
Karen,
Welcome to the HS10 family! Yes, the HS10 comes with three flash settings, however, slow synchro is not available in every shooting mode. I would try rotating the mode dial to Program mode (P) and then try activating the slow synchro flash.
- Moose
THANKS for the information. I appreciate it.
Hi Moose,
Please give me tips to use the Aperture with Shutter speed, I really wanted to take nice pics by using aperture with shutter speed, or just highlighting the subject and all blur near or behind the subject kind of pic…
Give me some tips to try that..
Thanks
Madhur
Madhur,
I highly recommend buying a book on digital photography. The series by Scott Kelby is excellent for beginners looking to experiment with Shutter priority, Aperture priority and many different types of photography (macro, portraits, landscapes, ect…). Here’s a link to his Digital Photography Boxed Set. Understanding the basics of photography will help you get the most out of your HS10.
- Moose
As regards a remote shutter release,why not use the timer,most times it perfectly adequate,even for close ups.
Use manual focus,aperture priority,(F4,) and a tripod!
Doug,
Thanks for sharing both tips!
- Moose
One thing I found out by accident.(although it’s buried in the manual somewhere) is that if you select “face detection” in the Setup menue,it means you can only select multi metering,and centre spot focussing.
The other metering options(centre weighted,spot),and focussing(centre,tracking,continuous)are unavailable.
Plus manual of course.
“Face Detection” comes on anyway in the Auto settings,so you don’t really need to select it anyway,in my view.
Also I found the Fuji software caused problems when I came to download my images into my Picasa programn,my PC wouldn’t recognise the camera!
And the Fuji software wouldn’t either!
I ended up deleting the software completely,and “restoring my PC to an earler time” in the Windows Tools menue,and I managed to get it working again!
Obviously some conflict there!
Moose,
I think I shall stick to the fine setting and I ‘m looking forward for the test results of the dynamic range.
Andy
Hi Moose,
Thanks for the fast replies.
2 things I am wondering about.
1) Image quality Normal or Fine: does it make a huge difference? (probably must find it out for my self I guess)
2) Dynamic Range 100%, 200% or 400%: don’t really know what it is, I see some change in the color but what setting to use in what situation?
Greetings
Andy
Andy,
1) Stick with the ‘Fine’ image setting. This basically is the quality of image compression. When the HS10 takes a picture, it’s ran through the image processor and then ‘saved’ at a certain quality. It would be like you saving a photo at high quality vs medium quality on your computer.
2) As for the Dynamic Range enhancement, I’m still testing out the different settings. Essentially, an increase in dynamic range will allow the camera to pick up more detail in the shadow and highlight areas of your photo. I believe the HS10 is taking two photos (at the same time) and layering them on top of each other in order to pick up on the highlight and shadow areas. In my testing it has increased the level of image noise. I’ll post my findings as soon as I do a bit more testing.
- Moose
Hi Moose ( My Captain)
1) on 26th July had posted a query for you. My question was can a corded remote be made for our HS-10 ? and can it be used through the DC jack ?
2) Tks for the info by email on the SLR bag. My question – is it waterproof and can it be shipped to India ?
Tks n rgds/Nauzer
Nauzer,
1. Not sure…maybe someone who reads this blog can answer the question. I know you can find some brackets on eBay that can be positioned over the shutter button, but I’ve never tried them.
2. No problem…I believe the bottom is water resistant, but the case itself is not waterproof. It will whisk away water, but I definitely wouldn’t submerge it under water :)
- Moose
Hi Moose,
How are you? I was waiting for your tutorial to learn more about this masterpiece. Hope to see it soon.
Thanks
Madhur,
Been very busy working on a few new tutorials. Should be arriving very soon! :)
- Moose
Hello Moose
Last saturday during a birthday celebration, i tried to take pictures with the ligths off during the happy birthday song, and it was imposible, i had to push two or more times the button, the pictures were dark, or blur. i used P mode, iso 100 with forced flash. Instead when the room ligths comes on, the pictures and the camera worked fine. May you tell me whats is wrong, in fully automatic did not work neither.
Thanks in advance.
Rafael,
Great question…the built-in flash can be very harsh on skin tones, and also creates a very “unnatural” look. Many times I’ll use an external flash mounted to my HS10 and bounce the light of the ceiling. If you have to use the on-board flash, then rotate the mode dial to P mode and click the flash button (right arrow) on the back of the HS10. This will bring up the flash menu. From here, select the Slow Synchro option. This will basically illuminate your subject, while also exposing the background to give you a more natural look. Since the slow synchro flash mode uses slower shutter speeds you’ll need to use a tripod and increase the ISO to 800 or higher in order to prevent image blur. Using higher ISO’s will increase the amount of image noise, but at the same time you’ll get an accurate exposure and photos with less image blur. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Hey,
Since a few days I am the proud owner of a HS10.
Still finding my way on this camera I stumbled on the Image Stabilization.
Not knowing how it works and what it does, I ask my self witch setting do I need to use?
What are the pro’s and contra’s of these settings?
Do I need to turn de IS off when I use a tripod?
By the way, I love Your blog.
Greetings
Andy
Andy,
Welcome to the HS10 family and great question! Image stabilization basically consists of small movements to the image sensor in order to minimize any movements to the camera while shooting. To give you an example, try hand-holding the HS10 at full zoom with the image stabilization turned off…you’ll see how shaky it is. Image stabilization not only makes it easier for you to frame the shot, but it also minimizes image blur due to camera shake. You’ll notice that the HS10 comes equipped with a couple different image stabilization options…
1. Continuous
2. Shooting Only
Continuous will stabilize the image during framing and image capture. Shooting Only will enable the image stabilization right at the moment of image capture. Generally speaking, the shooting only mode will give you the best results at minimizing image blur due to camera shake. Most people use continuous because it makes shooting at telephoto much easier, since the image is not bouncing all over the place.
Yes, when using a tripod you should turn image stabilization off. If the HS10 is completely still, the image sensor will continue to move which can lead to blurry photos. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Dear Moose,
just checking, if a DIY kind of corded remote could be made and used for HS-10 ? I visited a website which made corded remotes for cameras from mobile ear phones. If at all, where can we plug that in our camera ?
Rgds/Nauzer
If you want a proper user’s manual,ring up Fuji and request one.I did and got one next day!
Doug,
Thanks for sharing! Sounds like the Fuji reps in the UK are very helpful.
- Moose
Dear Capt.,
Am afraid to upgrade the firmware to 1.02. Will it make considerable difference in pic quality or shall I stick to the original 1.0 ? K rgds/ Nauzer
Nauzer,
You may notice a small difference in image quality as the firmware fixes a couple issues with in-camera processing, specifically for those who shoot in RAW format.
- Moose
Hey Capt.,
Came across this Metz site – has flash gun options for HS-10.
Hope it benefits everyone to some extent.
http://www.metz.de/en/photo-electronics/flashlight-recommendations.html?tx_dkdkbshopblitzanw_pi1%5Bcameratype%5D=2#anwsearch
you select your camera brand and then the model no. and it gives you compatability with Metz flash guns.
Nauzer,
Great find! Thanks for sharing.
- Moose
Hey Captain,
Thanks – both your tips on the LCD screen switching off and turning off Face detection were Bang On and worked super to get rid of the problems.
I will now visit your site to see the external flash options.
By the way would you know whats a lightscoop ? Its a device to bounce your flash but can it be bought off the net or can it be made DIY ?
You are great – what would I do without you my friend . Cheers !
Nauzer,
Thanks for the kind words! I’m glad you were able to get rid of those pesky issues with your HS10. :)
- Moose
Any tip on shooting HS video. I need a clear video at the higher fps.
Ron,
I’m still experimenting with the HD (Hi-Def) and HS (High Speed) video on the HS10. I hope to get a tutorial up very soon…stay tuned!
- Moose
Dear Moose,
Apologise but remembered that I had missed out to ask you why the options in the AE (multi /Centre/Av) get activated only in the Manual mode and not in any other like -Programme /SrAuto /A or S ?
Rgds/Nauzer
Nauzer,
You can activate all of the AE options by turning OFF the Intelligent Face Detection feature inside the setup menu.
- Moose
Hi Moose,
Have been in situations when the Lcd screen frequently blanks out for a few seconds on its own when in the ” picture re-view” mode. What could be the reason ? – Rgds/Nauzer
Nauzer,
I’m wondering if it could be the electronic viewfinder turning on automatically, which will turn off the LCD. You can control the EVF/LCD Auto Switch inside the setup menu. If it is switched to ON, then the HS10 will automatically switch to the EVF if it detects something near the viewfinder. This can be a finger, a camera strap, etc…To prevent this from happening, just turn that feature OFF inside the setup menu.
- Moose
Hello Moose,
Thanks for your prompt revert. If the Vivitar 3200A is unsafe, what other “bounce” flashgun (non-TTL) can be recommended to be used safely ?
Most of the manufactures dont print the trigger voltage on the boxes or in their manuals, so this makes the decision to purchase so much complex.
If you can suggest a choice of brands or models I can then fish for one of them in India.
Thanks a million.
Nauzer,
You can read my post on external flash tips for the HS10. Fujifilm recommends coupling the HS10 with a newer Vivitar or Metz external flash. That should get you pointed in the right direction.
- Moose
Out yesterday taking about 100 outdoor shots for a friend.
Got home and loaded them into my photo editing software thinking I would have to do some work to provide them with great shots.
Amazing but using the HS10 set on Auto in mostly bright sunlight I only had to slightly adjust lighting on two shots.
After years of using various 35mm cameras and lenses I got some of my best general results using the HS10.
The HS10 is still not 100% perfect but hoping Fujifilm will continue to supply firmware upgrades and operating tips and not leave us out in the cold when they go to the next model.
Joe,
Thanks for sharing your shooting experience! Sounds like you got some fantastic shots. Based on the two firmware updates we’ve seen so far, it looks like Fuji is trying to please the current group of HS10 owners.
- Moose
Hi there,
I have a Vivitar 3200A flash gun, would that be suitable for HS-10 ?
I dont know its trigger voltage as its nowhere mentioned in the manual or on the box. Also no info available on the net about this flashgun.
Await your comments. – Thanks / Nauzer
Nauzer,
Checked with one of my photographer buddies and he said the trigger voltage generated by Vivitar 3200A at full charge flashing is around 180 volts (max). This would make it unsafe for the HS10.
- Moose
What is the consensus on using a 58 mm multi coated UV or Skylight filter on the HS10?
I have read that it is not necessary on a digital camera and can cause some problems, but I would like to protect the lens.
I have all sorts of filters from my old Canon EOS630.
Joe,
I’m planning on doing a post about this. To sum it up for you…digital camera sensors are nowhere near as sensitive to UV light as film, therefore UV filters are no longer necessary. Nowadays, UV filters act more as a protective barrier between earthly elements and your lens. The only time I add a UV filter to my HS10 is if I’m near the ocean (salty spray) or near flying debris (motocross) to protect my lens.
- Moose
Already tried…received this response.
“Thank you for contacting FUJIFILM North America Corporation. Please allow us to assist you.
It appears as if you are setting it correctly. What is it about the feature that you are not pleased about? There are not plans at this time for firmware updates for the HS-10.”
Joe,
Fuji service reps will often send feature requests to the development team. While there’s no guarantee that we may see an improvement in exposure bracketing ability with the HS10, it’s possible they may consider adding it later on.
- Moose
I receive both Popular Photography and Shutterbug magazines. They seem to be geared respectively for the enthusiast and the professional. Shutterbug published the results of the TIPA (Technical Image Press Association) awards for 2010. The award for the best Superzoom camera went to the HS10. This is what they had to say: “Serious photographers wanting the versatility and performance of an SLR system without the bulk or expense now have the perfect solution in the shape of the Fujifilm Finepix HS10. The Finepix HS10 offers an extensive feature set that combines a powerful 24-720mm (30x) zoom lens with sophisticated photographic controls, advanced functionality and SLR-like handling, and excellent image quality in a compact, affordable unit.”
Norman
Norman,
Thanks for sharing! :)
- Moose
Moose
I mentioned this in passing before but wanted to bring it up again.
At this point, the only major objection I have on the HS10 is the
+1/-1 exposure bracketing.
For HDR we really need either adjustable or +2/-2.
Do we think this may be something that can be handled with a firmware update?
I am attempting to contact Fuji and ask them and will post response.
Joe,
Fuji has been very open about their willingness to consider all ideas regarding feature upgrades. I would definitely give them a call and let them know that you’re very happy with the camera, but would like to submit a request for increased exposure bracketing abilities. Let me know how it goes!
- Moose
OK,
Thanks
Hi that is just the way it is unfortunately but the indicator will come on to tell you the power is getting low in plenty of time,it comes on very early infact so you will still be able to shoot quite a few more pics even when the indicator comes on.It is always best to carry a spare set of batteries too.
Hi!
On display has no battery indicator:Why?
Thanx,
Mornar
Mornar,
Make sure you select the appropriate battery type inside the HS10 setup menu otherwise the battery level indicator will be displayed incorrectly. For more info, refer to page 9 of the Fujifilm HS10 manual.
- Moose
You can’t use auto i.s.o in shutter priority moose so what else can i do ?
Moon,
You’re right…I just fired up my HS10 and there is no option for Auto ISO. I had just assumed it came equipped with that feature. Since you can’t enable Auto ISO…your next option would be to set the ISO manually. After you enable Shutter Priority mode, select a shutter speed that is higher than your zoom range. So if you’re shooting at full telephoto (720mm) then you would want a shutter speed of at least 1/800 or higher. If you’re shooting at mid zoom around 400mm, then you would want a shutter speed of at least 1/400 or higher.
The nest step will be adjusting the ISO. Start with an ISO of 100. If the two values (shutter speed and aperture) in the bottom left corner of the screen are both red, then the exposure will be incorrect. Begin raising the ISO until both values turn white. Once they turn white then take a test shot to see if the exposure looks good. If it does then fire away! Just remember that you’ll need to adjust the ISO if the lighting changes.
- Moose
oh and i meant to say and cannot use flash either?
Hi Moose,but what if you are shooting in shade but cannot use a tripod ?
Moon,
Even in outdoor shade, there is “usually” enough ambient light to give you fast enough shutter speeds for hand holding the HS10. If you’re seeing blurred results, then switch over to Shutter Priority mode and enable AUTO ISO. This will allow you to select a high enough shutter speed to freeze camera and subject movements, while the HS10 matches the correct ISO for a perfect exposure. Hope that helps!
- Moose
HI Moose,
Thanks for you input to my previous query and it was really helpful as I got new ideas to take some magical pics with lowering down the shutter speed, When I switch to the (M) mode on dial which shows to change the shutter speed and Aperture I am only able to change the shutter speed but Aperture I cant, can I change both at the same time in this mode. (A) is the mode on the dial where I can only change the Aperture but not the shutter speed. Cant I change both thing at the same time in some mode?
Can you please tell me in brief what is the basic function of Aperture and what difference it makes?
I understood the shutter speed and how it goes along with ISO settings from you, thanks for that Moose.
Thanks
Madhur
Madhur,
Yes, you can adjust the Aperture by pressing the +/- button (located right above the command dial) and then rotating the command dial left and right. Aperture priority is great for controlling depth of field. For example, if you were shooting a landscape and would like the entire scene in focus, then choose the highest possible aperture f-number which would be f/8. If you’re shooting portraits and would like to blur the background behind your subject then choose the lowest possible f-number which would be f/2.8 at wide angle and f/5.6 at telephoto. Hope that helps!
- Moose
I just got my hs10 from adorama and have been getting used to it. One thing I think might be a help in taking clear pictures expecially when using the extreme zooms would be a monopod. I found this greatly improved the quality of the pictures I was taking. A monopod is pretty easy to use and carry around. This makes the image stabilization work really well and the camera can find and hold a focus.
Larry,
Thanks for sharing! Yes a monopod is a great idea when shooting telephoto. The super 720mm zoom on the HS10 requires you to use a shutter speed of at least 1/800 when hand holding the camera in order to reduce the chance of “camera shake”. With a monopod, you can greatly reduce the shutter speed to say 1/400 of a second and still get sharp results at telephoto. Just remember that a monopod only reduces the movements of the camera and not your subject. If you are shooting a fast moving subject, you will still need a fast enough shutter speed to “freeze” the action.
- Moose
Good afternoon Moose,
due to this great blog site and HS Community supported by You – and the great tests of the Fujifilm HS10 camera – I have now ordered this camera from a local retailer. I really look forward to read all the tips & advices both from you and all the fine people visiting this site. This camera will be the main camera for the family, both at home and when travelling :-) One thing I wonder about is as follows: Is it possible to implement the TTS function for external flashes by a firmware update?
Terje,
I’m glad this site has been useful to you and thanks for the kind words! There is a wonderful following of HS10 users here so you will fit right in. To answer your question, it’s highly unlikely that Fuji will be providing TTL capabilities through a firmware update. At this point in time, you’ll need to use an external flash manually on the HS10.
- Moose
When will we be able to share photo’s here moose?
Moon,
Great question…I’m looking into a few different ways that users can share photos. Stay tuned!
- Moose
Hi Sylvia,if you look on amazon for a fujifilm HS10 lens hood there’s one there it’s a pro digital one but any 58mm lens hood will fit the HS10 it doesn’t have to be specifically made just for the HS10.I hope this is of help.
Moon,
Thanks for sharing!
- Moose
Hi Moose
I look forward to your tutorial on panorama. Also has anybody know if Fuji is going to bring out a lens hood for the HS10? I’ve looked at Ebay websites, but think the hoods on offer are a bit flimsy, so would prefer a Fuji one.
Regards Sylvia
Sylvia,
Don’t worry about buying a Fuji branded lens hood…all you need to look for is a lens hood that fits 58mm lenses, Adorama 58mm Wide Angle Digital Lens Hood – Petal Shapedlike this one.
- Moose
Hi there you can buy the coupler from fuji for £16.99 that is obviously in u.k but I am sure the same applies for U.S.A too.Also the power adapter that goes with it costs £26.99.See below info.
Use the CP-04 Coupler with the AC-5VX Power Adaptor (supplied separately) to power your camera directly from the mains. The coupler simply slots into the battery compartment after the battery is removed and ensures that power is supplied constantly to the camera. This is of key importance when downloading images from the camera to ensure no loss of power occurs should the battery run out of charge.
The CP-04 Coupler only provides power to the camera and does not charge the battery.
Hello,
Thank you for your informative website. I’m going to order the HS10 from Amazon but I’m concerned that I won’t be able to find the DC coupler CP-04 online. Is there an alternative way to power the camera for extended periods of time or can you point me to where I can purchase it?
Regards,
A
plz also help me in how to select aperture also after turning the dial to A mode. I could seed the aperture on the screen but dont know how to change it,and same thing with shutter speed.
Plz guide.
Madhur,
You can change the aperture by rotating the smaller dial to the right of the mode dial. You should see the aperture f-number change on the LCD screen.
- Moose
hi moose,
i wanted to know that how could i select my choice of shutter speed after selecting S in the dial.
Thanks
Madhur,
All you have to do is rotate the smaller dial to the right of the mode dial. You should see the shutter speed value change on the LCD screen.
- Moose
Moose thanks for the info on photobox it looks excellent !
I noticed at the very top that Dan was after a manual.For anyone wanting a manual for the HS10 if you call fuji on 0844 5532322 and ask for a manual they will post you one.
N.B I don’t know if this only applies to the U.K (if it is a u.k number) or if it applies world wide.My appologies if it is only for u.k.
Moon,
No problem! Yes, anybody in the US can order a printed manual by calling Fuji at 1-800-800-3854
- Moose
Hi Madhur just a thought,how close to the subject are you when this blurring occurs? If you are within about 6 feet of the subject you will probably need to put it into macro mode,even at full zoom. (not super macro,just macro)
Hi Moose,
I am experiencing some disturbance in taking full zoom pic, it blurs when I clicks it, that image stabilizing thing is also at its full strength, How can I take a good pick without blur effect at full zoom?
Please help
Madhur,
Moon may be right. If you are too close to your subject, the HS10 will fail to focus. If the subject is far away, then you need to use a fast enough shutter speed to minimize camera shake and to freeze your subject.
At full telephoto, you’ll want to shoot at a minimum shutter speed of 1/500. The optimal shutter speed for full telephoto would be 1/1000, but you may not have enough light depending on what time of day you are shooting. In that case, you’ll need to raise the ISO until you achieve a high enough shutter speed.
Another option would be to use a tripod. With a tripod you can shoot at slower shutter speeds as long at your subject is stationary (landscapes, buildings, statues, ect…).
- Moose
Just bought the HS10 with which I am very pleased – I’ve also got a Nikon SLR. The only real problem I have with the HS10 is the panorama. Sometimes the arrow comes up, sometimes it doesn’t. I seem to need a great deal of patience (not my strong point!) Any tips on getting the panorama to work every time? Many thanks.
Sylvia,
I too have been experimenting with the panorama feature. I’ll be posting a tutorial in the coming weeks…stay tuned! :)
- Moose
Thanks for answering that question Moose-I was afraid of that answer!!
In some ways the HS10 is not as good as its little brother the S9000 but hopefully, as I become more comfortable with it, that feeling will somewhat disapate!
Have a great weekend.
Terry
Hey Guys
Now that I am using my HS10 It think it may be time to part with my trusty like new Canon EOS 630 with 35-135mm lens.
Not much market for film cameras these days but does anyone know of somewhere where they might take as a mail in trade on other products or pay a bit of cash.
Can’t bring myself to just trash it.
Thanks
Joe,
Definitely go with KEH (keh.com). They have a wonderful staff and will give you fair value for your camera.
- Moose
Thanks moose :)
Moon,
I talked to one of my friends in the UK and he really likes PhotoBox (http://www.photobox.co.uk). He said they have really great customer service and do a wonderful job with prints. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Thanks Moon and Thanks Moose for everything and will like to see more of the features on this website. You did a great job at the right time Moose, Keep updating on new things.
Thanks
Madhur
Thanks Madhur for the kind comments!
- Moose
Moose-Thanks for getting this going.
I have been using my HS10 for a couple of weeks and would like to know if you have found a way to stop the camera from displaying the anoying Fuji sign when you you turn the camera on.
I have also got a Fuji S9000-a very satisfactory camera in all but the zoom. The S9000 does not have this display and I find the 2 second delay can kill a shot when trying to do a quick shoot-say wildlife on the hwy for instance.
Thanks
Terry,
Great question…I looked into it and it appears this is the “loading” screen, so there’s no way to remove it. You’re next option is to adjust the Auto Power Off feature and enable the EVF instead of the LCD. By leaving your HS10 on all the time you’ll drain the batteries a bit faster, but you’ll have the ability to snap off a photo in a moments notice. This is a great way to get quick shots when you’re out shooting, just make sure you have extra batteries! :)
- Moose
Hi Moose,I wonder if there is a U.K alternative to Adoramapix or something in the U.K that is good.
Moon,
I have a few photographer buddies that live over there. I’ll give them a call and let you know.
- Moose
Moose
Thanks for the tip on having the photos pro done.
Can’t believe that I hadn’t done it before. Probably cheaper than doing myself and definitely better.
Just sent some in to check out their work.
Joe,
No problem, glad I could help!
- Moose
Thanks for the responses.
Now to another question regarding printing. (stretch as to topic but related to HS10 use)
I have been looking for what might be considered “the best” photo quality printer with minimum of 4 x 6 and 8 x 11 and possibly even larger.
Anyone have any suggestions.
There has to be something out there that does a better job than a standard ink jet printer that puts “photo” in it in it’s marketing but does nothing to imporve prints and the photo printing experience.
Joe,
Ever since the late 90′s, I was determined to print my own photos so I could control every aspect of digital photography. After spending countless dollars and hours in multiple printers, inks and software…I have made the switch to online printing and have never looked back. The quality and longevity you’ll get from a professional photo processor versus your home inject printer is not even close. I recommend AdoramaPix.com
- Moose
He Moose,
Thanks for the input! I made it, yeah you are right it was the issue of silent mode. I clicked some nice shot of Moon at 800 ISO and got really amazed by zooming then, even I could see those Moon big marks. Hey Moose do put some gallery where we all can share our photography experience here.
Thanks
Madhur,
Great idea, I’ll look into starting a Flickr group where all of the Fuji HS10 owners (who hang out here) can share their photos with one another.
- Moose
The biggest question to me is since I purchased the HS10 mainly for the burst mode exposure bracketing, and also the electronic viewfinder and the great manual long zoom lens ..
I am now wondering if it is the best camera choice. It does appear to be a quality unit and it has a bunch of features, but think there may be better choices out there if I can find one with a viewfinder.
Anyone have any thoughts…Canon, Pentax, Pana, etc. The key features to me are at least 20X hopefully “manual” zoom
Could have of course went DSLR but after carrying around 30 pounds of cameras, lenses, filters, and adapters, when I was younger thought it was time to lighten up.
Joe,
The Fuji HS10 is the most advanced “bridge” camera at the moment, considering the zoom range you’re after. If you need an optical viewfinder and a more advanced exposure bracketing mode, then you may need to consider a Digital SLR. Things have changed since the film days. You can now purchase “all-in-one” lenses that will allow you to capture everything from wide-angle to telephoto. The Tamron AF 18-270mm is a wonderful lens for those looking for a simple one lens solution. With a price hovering around $550 to $650 for this lens plus the added price of a new or used DSLR, you’ll be pushing the $1000 mark.
The $500 increase over the HS10 will give you better low light abilities, less noise, more advanced exposure bracketing and an optical viewfinder…so you’ll need to decide whether these features are worth the added cost.
- Moose
Jo,I do exactly the same thing.I let photomatix do the work and also find it better to just use the one shot.There are no problems with matching up this way either and also eliminating the need for a tripod etc.It also saves a lot of room on the memory card and is so easy anyone can do it.With todays computer software our lives are made so easy that it’s sometimes unbelievable what can be achieved.You could also save the photo 5 times (for example) and have each one set to +1 or +2 or anything inbetween,whatever takes ya fancy.So I don’t really see the need personaly to change the exposure bracketing in the hs10 with such software available but that is only my opinion.After all H.D.R is computerised manipulation so why not do the whole thing on the computer? Just my view,I would love to hear other peoples opinions on this matter.
Came up with another question.
The burst mode exposure bracketing is only +/- 1 max, which is not really enough for HDR.
Does anyone think that this might be able to be fixed to +/- 2 in the next firmware update.
Having the exposure bracketing on the HS 10 is very cool, but have found that I can get better result using a single exposure saved 3 times and letting Photomatix Pro adjust to +/- 2 before processing.
Joe,
It’s possible Fuji could increase the exposure bracketing range, however, i wouldn’t count on it. As Moon had previously stated, if the +/- exposure bracketing is not enough for you I would just let Photomatix do the processing for you.
- Moose
Thanks Moon
My dreams are dashed since I was hoping for a permanent quick and easy way to do this, but thanks for the info.
Wish I had the HS10 a few years ago when I was younger and still had a full set of brains cells so I could remember all of the symbols, buttons, wheels, and settings.
Joe,
It sounds like Moon has answered most of your questions. I will do a quick test tonight, but I’m pretty sure you can do the following…
1. Setup up everything the way you like in either P, S, A or M modes (this should include RAW and Exposure Bracketing)
2. Then go to your menu and save as a Custom Set (found on page 33 of the Fuji HS10 manual)
3. Then rotate the mode dial to C (Custom Mode) and the HS10 will restore your saved settings
- Moose
P.S Once RAW is selected in the menu it will remain set to RAW in other selected programmes until you change it.
Hi again Jo when you have set up P or S mode to what you want it set to go to custom (found in the menu)and click o.k this will save your settings in that mode.The exposure bracketing choice will not be saved however,this is reset to off once you choose a different option but it is simply a matter of pressing the bracketing button on top of the camera and choosing the exposure bracketing option.
Moon
Thanks
I misspoke in my first post regarding SP1 or SP2.
What I meant was, and I think you covered it, is if I can set up the parameters in P or S mode using RAW with exposure compensation 3 shot burst mode for HDR shots, and then move back to a program mode without having to change from RAW back to JPG.
Guess what I am saying is will P or S mode retain the settings for this until I change them?
Hi Joe,you can’t have exposure bracketing switched on using sp1 or sp2 unfortunately but you can shoot in RAW.It is quite easy to use exposure bracketing though by using the P mode or S mode etc.
Got my HS10 today and I am studying the 130 or so pages of owners manuel.
I know I will find it eventually, but wondering if anyone can tell me if exposure bracketing and RAW can be set up in to stay on in SP1 or SP2?
Going to be doing some HDR processing and need an easy way to get into this mode.
Hi you may have silent mode switched on in the menu? If so you need to switch it off. Also have you pressed the flash button to open the flash on top ? It is a little button on the left of the pop up flash.
Hi Moose,
I tried that P mode to get the flash thing on but it didn’t work, when I am pressing that a pop up message come which indicates “Press hold button to switch off the silent mode or something like that”
Still I am not able to get a single pic with flash on :-(
Madhur,
It sounds like Moon was able to answer your question. For everyone out there, Silent Mode basically disables all sounds and flashes on your camera. In order to enable Silent mode, just press and hold the DISP/BACK button on the back of the HS10. To disable Silent mode, just press and hold the DISP/BACK button for a few seconds. You can read more about this on page 18 of the Fuji HS10 manual.
- Moose
P.S Moose is it possible for us to each have a different avatar pic.I find it confusing that everyone has the same ?
Hi I purchased the hs10 last week and i am very happy with it.It is an excellent camera.I have been using and learning with the smaller fuji s5200 for the past 4 years but mostly used it in auto mode.I found it hard to find a camera (this being the 5th I have tried) that gave me the image quality that my s5200 gave but also had fast burst and other extras that I particularly wanted.I am very happy to say that at last I have found it in the hs10.Way to go Fuji ! Anyway I am happy that I found this site to get help and advice from and maybe share experiences and pics at some stage :)
Hi Moose,
I am waiting for the tutorial that you are making, may I know when you will be sharing with us?
Thanks
Madhur
Hey Madhur,
I’ll be working on new tutorials in the coming weeks, stay tuned!
- Moose
Thanks! I would surely explore that option as well. Your suggestions are really helpful, thanks
Madhur
Thank you Moose
I will be waiting for your helpful tutorial. I wanted to know how to take a picture with flash without the default function which generates two pics simultaneously.
Thanks
Madhur
Madhur,
It sounds like you are using the Natural + Flash scene mode. In this mode the HS10 take two photos, one with flash and one without. To get out of that mode, just rotate the mode dial to P or program mode. Then click on the flash button (looks like a lighting bolt) on the back of the HS10 to bring up the different flash options. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Hi Moose,
I just have purchased this camera and I am really amazed after having it as it was my desire to have a great camera, please help in exploring it more as I am a amature photographer.
Thanks
Madhur
Madhur,
Glad to have you apart of the HS10 community! Stay tuned, I’m working on more helpful tutorials.
- Moose
Hi Moose
I must admit that I have not investigated the panorama “out in the wild” yet. I have just used it around home to try and get a feel for how to use it. (been too busy trying to come to grips with the various continuous shooting modes and movie aspects) So, I cannot comment on horizon. What I do find is that it seems to stop panning at two angles. The first is very wide if I pan quickly such that the indicator arrow”bumps” the other side of the frame. The second angle is smaller and seems to be the same no matter how I try to adjust panning speed. I cannot seem to get the fine control that will allow me to select exactly the panorama shot that I want. I will play around with it on the weekend and report back.
Hey Steve,
I took a few panos outside my house with the HS10 and will be reporting my findings here. Looking forward to your tests.
- Moose
Hi Moose…a follow up to earlier video issues. After trying all sorts of free video conversion programs, I eventually opted to buy a new movie editing program..Cyberlink Power Producer 8 ($50). This accepts the .mov files from the HS10 and manages the HD clips well. The Ultra version (about $90) allows burning to blue-ray I think.
Now I need to get a media viewer that will play back the HS10 HD clips without being jerky and desynchronising the sound and video.
Has anyone figured out how to control the extent (angle of photo) of a panoramic shoot?
Steve
Hey Steve,
Thanks for the update. I’ll see if I can get one of my videographer friends to give us some advice on HS10 video conversion and playback. I’m very green when it comes to HD video. In regards to panoramic shooting, are you having issues with the horizon not lining up?
- Moose
please what filter/lens suppose to get macro with my hs 10 , because raynox , marumi and vitacon make me confused to choice so i wait for your info and picuter with how to get the macro picture
thanks
pj
Hey PJ,
I really like the Raynox DCR-250 macro converter.
- Moose
Hi Moose,
Am new at this site and a novice in photography. I purchased my HS10 just a week ago. I really love to take a picture of sunrise and sunset but each time I took a picture of it’s all dark… can you help me on this? thanks much…
Hey Ervin,
You found the right place for beginner HS10 tips! Taking Sunset and Sunrise photos can often be challenging, because your camera is trying to expose the sky and the landscape at the same time. If the HS10 exposes the sky you will have a vibrant sunset, but the landscape will look very dark…almost like a silhouette. If the HS10 exposes the landscape, then your sky will be washed out and not as colorful. If the entire photo is dark, then you are probably in the wrong shooting mode. I would suggest that you rotate the mode dial to SP1 and select the Sunset scene mode. Give it a try and let me know how it turns out.
- Moose
Thanks Moose, i let you know the results
I have recently purchased the HS10 and the focus was awful until I updated to the 1.02 firmware. I was wondering if anybody uses Linux Ubuntu 9.10 with raw, successfully as I don’t seem to be able to load them with any program I have tried.
Hey Ron,
I also noticed a slight difference in both the accuracy and speed of the autofocus after the HS10 firmware update. I don’t use Linux…I’m currently using Windows Vista and SilkyPix to view and edit HS10 raw files.
- Moose
Thanks Moose
Basically is difficult to focus landscapes, i am trying including a tripod, but are not the best results. When i use manually focus, i move back and forward the focus wheel, but i cant see the sharp edges and using the indicator is the same than auto focus, but not good for me. Thanks for your blog.
Hey Rafael,
Have you tried using the landscape mode on the HS10? You can enable it by rotating the mode dial to SP1 and then selecting MENU/OK. This will bring up a list of options, and you will see one labeled LANDSCAPE. This will set the focus to infinity.
If you’d rather do this without using the landscape scene mode, just rotate the mode dial to (A) aperture priority and then rotate the smaller command dial to set the aperture f-number to f/8. Next put the HS10 into AF-S single autofocus mode (page 51 of the HS10 manual) and enable the center focus point (page 50 of the HS10 manual). Once you’ve setup the HS10, focus on an object halfway between your camera and the farthest point in the landscape. At this point the HS10 is now properly focused to infinity and you can switch over to manual focus. As long as you don’t change the zoom level, you won’t have to adjust the manual focusing ring…you can just keep snapping away without waiting for the HS10 to focus. Hope that helps!
- Moose
I have 1 month using the hs10, my concern is focus. I am just compare with my other camera which has better results. manual focus is dificult to set. Any tips. thanks.
Hey Rafael,
Manual focus can be a bit tricky on the HS10. Let me know what you’re shooting and I can give you some tips on how to setup the HS10. Thanks for stopping by!
- Moose
Just purchased an HS10 today! Expecting delivery next week as Amazon UK are currently out of stock! Very excited though as I’ve just started doing some urban exploring of abandoned buildings; this camera seemed to fit the bill for both wide angle shots and ultra zoom!
Hey Sean,
You’re going to love the zoom range. When shooting cityscapes try setting the HS10 to aperture priority and use an f-number around f/5.6…that will give you the sharpest results at wide-angle. At telephoto just use the lowest available f-number which is also f/5.6. Good luck and welcome to the HS10 community!
- Moose
Hi Moose,
Gr8 site, My wife n me are amateur Birders, after much research we bought the HS-10 for Shooting birds, however Iam doing good with auto mode but yet to get a hang of the manual mode. Since we shoot birds from a distance, I use full zoom. When doing so the image is very shaky and stabilizes after a few seconds(the bird might fly away meanwhile). Sometimes when i try to focus on the bird by half pressing the shutter button it gets more blurry. Can u help me with this. Also where can i get good tips on manual settings and how to use them.
Hey Sunny,
Glad you found my site! The HS10 is a great camera for birding. The trick with birding is to focus quickly and to use the highest available shutter speed depending on the lighting conditions.
1. First I would put the HS10 into burst mode so you can capture multiple photos in rapid succession, found on page 43 of the Fuji HS10 manual.
2. Then enable ‘Center’ Autofocus mode, found on page 50 of the manual.
3. Activate AF-S (Single) focus, found on page 51 of the manual.
4. I would also enable Auto ISO so the HS10 can properly expose the scene depending on how much light is available, found on page 48 of the manual.
5. Next, rotate the larger mode dial to Shutter priority (S), found on page 30 of the manual.
6. Locate the shutter speed on the LCD screen and then rotate the small command dial so that you have a shutter speed between 1/500 and 1/1000.
7. Next, pre-focus on a subject near the bird…bird feeder, bird bath, branch, etc…
8. Keep holding the shutter button half way down until the bird enters the frame. At that moment, press the shutter button all the way down.
9. While in burst mode, the HS10 is capable of taking photos up to 10 frames per second…so you should find a couple keepers!
Birding is very challenging, but also very rewarding! Just keep practicing.
- Moose
Hey troops, we need to see a bit more input from you HS10 owners and users. How do you like your camera; type of photography; results of you efforts. In order to keep this thing going, your ideas, thoughts and input must be present. Moose does an outstanding job with answering questions and providing tips and advice. Let us not be the silent majority. We would enjoy hearing from you. I love my HS10 and have not really used it for anything that reaches its vast potential. Thus far, some family stuff and of course my favorite subject. My little cat, Jezebel.
Norman
Great idea Norman, I definitely encourage other HS10 owners to submit tips and advice by leaving comments to each post. In the future I plan on creating some friendly forums where beginners can share ideas and insights without being hassled by know-it-alls. Until then, keep commenting :)
- Moose
Moose, my HS10 arrived today and reinforced my personal diagnosis of “Digitally Challenged”. I did stumble my way through set-up (thank goodness for rechargeable batteries). The camera arrived somewhat late in the day and by the time I was ready to photograph “Jezebel” (our beautiful spoiled cat), the new computer arrived and so, I will tackle that tomorrow. You have been a fountain of good information as well as a pleasant guy to consult. My present computer is giving me fits. Now the all-in-one printer is just that. It prints but won’t scan, copy or fax. Ah! Technology once more rears its ugly head. Keep the faith!
Norman
Norman,
Sounds like it’s been pretty busy around your part of the world! Don’t you love technology :)
- Moose
OK Moose Thanks for your valuable input. It is really good to have a dedicated site to learning how to use the HS10
Steve
Hey Steve,
Glad to have you apart of the HS10 community, tell your friends! :)
- Moose
Re: video editing with the .mov files created by HS10
I tried Quicktime Pro to convert the .mov to .avi files . It worked BUT the quality was poor. The original .mov files played in Quicktime were much clearer than the new video clip played in WM player. Am I doing something wrong in the exporting?
Steve,
When you export to AVI, you’ll need to select a codec and quality level. The default options will produce a very low quality AVI…don’t ask me why. :)
I would choose the (uncompressed) option when exporting to AVI. This will produce a very large file, but the quality will be intact.
I’m a complete dummy when it comes to shooting and editing video. If I were you, I’d check out the DVInfo forum for more info on shooting and converting HD video using digital cameras like the HS10. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Advice on Panorama shooting?
How does one control the extent of a panorama shot? If I hold the shutter down and sweep quickly until the direction indicator arrow “hits” the other side of the frame, then I get a large, almost 270 deg panorama. If I want to reduce the angle, I do not know how to use the direction arrow to help with this and all the panoramas seem to be about 3 shots in width and I cannot control exactly where I want it to stop.
Any advice would be welcome.
many thanks
Hey Steve,
I did a quick test yesterday using Panorama mode on the HS10 (handheld) and here’s what I found…
1. The mode is best suited with the use of a steady tripod where you can slowly pan up or down.
2. Slow and steady is the best speed when sweeping across the scene.
When I viewed the panos on my computer the HS10 did a good (not great) job of piecing them together. Parts of the photo had a “stutter” effect and other parts of the image had a “ghosting” effect where I could see the overlap of two objects. I’m going to try pano mode again with a tripod and I’ll let you know how it turns out.
To answer your question…I don’t think there’s anyway to stop the pano half way through the sweep. I tried a couple different things and couldn’t get the pano to stop unless I completed the sweep. If you don’t want the entire pano, then your best option would be to crop off the portions of the image that you don’t want.
- Moose
I haven’t done this myself but try setting the panorama direction to Down instead of right/left then rotate the camera 90 degrees anti clockwise and pan clockwise (or reverse both the above if you prefer) . Your shot will now be proportionately taller/narrower .
Anyone have a suggestion(s) for a case for the HS10? I need to carry a spare set of batteries, a rubber lens hood, a couple of filters and a microfiber cloth. I looked at the Fujifilm SC FXS 100 in leather, but some folks wrote that it was a bit small. Thanks.
Norman
Norman,
I really like the Lowepro Toploader Pro 75 AW case. This case has plenty of room to spare, so you won’t have to shimmy the HS10 in or out. Top loaders are great for quick shooting, similar to a Cowboys holster.
As for your accessories…it has a front pocket where you can store an extra set of batteries and a couple filters. I would just leave the microfiber cloth at the bottom of the case. As for the lens hood, you could just reverse it. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Thanks for clarifying the super macro settings. On another point, can you recommend software that will convert the HS10 video files (.mov) into formats readable by Windows Movie Maker…without loss of quality?
Thanks
Steve
Steve,
I would go with QuickTime Pro. The program costs around $29, and will allow you to export to AVI at the highest quality setting. It will also export to formats compatible with the iPod and iPhone as an added benefit. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Well Moose, I finally did it! I ordered the HS10 from Amazon last night and I am very excited. I also had to get a new computer so this is going to be an expensive month. I purchased an extended warranty for both at a greatly reduced price from a well respected warranty provider with excellent reviews. If anyone is interested, they can contact me via my email: NormRosenberg@comcast.net. I was able to save a good deal of money. The HS 10 should arrive soon, and I wonder if the upgraded firmware has already been installed. Once I have the serial # I could contact Fuji. Moose, I cannot tell you how helpful your website has been and it is so kind of you to offer help to those of us who need it. Thank you.
Norman
Alright Norman! Glad to have you apart of the HS10 community! If you need any help along the way just let me know :)
- Moose
Hiya I am thinking of buying a new camera and after many weeks of reading and rereading various reviews and comments I have decided that the HS10 seems to be my best choice. Reading the extremly different points of view is enough to explode a persons head!
I have a great fujifilm camera already with a 10x zoom. What I would like is better photos of birds in trees etc, which I think the 30x zoom will do great. I also love doing close up insects, flowers etc so need good macro. As I walk, it needs to be a camera that I can carry easily and so don’t want extra lenses etc.
If I do buy this camera do I need to buy a memory card? Does it make any difference to the camera which size of memory card or is it just how many photos can be stored on it?
Thank you for your time and work. You have encouraged me more towards buying this camera.
By the way I love your sample photos and the colours are lovely.
BCH,
Deciding on a the right digital camera can definitely make you go crazy! Based on the type of photography you are interested in, I think the HS10 is an excellent choice. The HS10 is perfect for wildlife and macro photography.
If you already have an SD card, you can use it with the HS10, however, you’ll need a Class 6 memory card to record HD video with the HS10. If your card isn’t a Class 6 memory card, then I would upgrade to the Transcend 16GB Class 6 SDHC memory card which is a great value for the price. A 16GB SDHC memory card will give you roughly 6,400 photos or 157 minutes of HD video at the highest quality settings. If you plan on taking photos and videos, the 16GB card will give you enough room for both.
Hope that helps! Good luck!
- Moose
Thanks, will try. As you can probably tell I am novice at this high end point and shoot camera. But that’s what I wanted–the powerful lens and point and shoot will all the extras. I will learn how to use them. That’s why I bought this camera. For me it was the right choice. Thanks
EJ,
I look forward to seeing your progress…if you have any other questions don’t hesitate to ask.
- Moose
Just spoke to fuji customer service, to download videos you must use the fuji software provided or download Quicktime. Is there another way to download videos.
EJ,
If you know how to access your memory card through your computer, just navigate the video folder and transfer the videos manually over to your hard drive. If that sounds too complicated, then using the included Fuji software is the way to go.
In order to play the HD movie files on your computer you’ll need two things.
1. Quicktime – to play your movies
2. HD video card – to render your movies correctly
If your computer doesn’t come equipped with an HD enabled video card, then the video will look extremely choppy and the sound won’t match up. HD video is very resource intensive and needs a proper video card to work correctly. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Anybody have problems with the sound quality of the videos. I play the videos back and the sound quality is horrible, can hardly hear even though I increase the volume. A lot of distortion and breakup. If I can not find out the problem will have to return the camera.
Jones,
I’ve experienced similar issues. There seems to be a lot of handling noise produced by holding the HS10. The microphones are very sensitive and pick up the slightest sound. It’s a shame that Fuji didn’t provide a jack for an external microphone.
As far as volume, I’ve not experienced this. Make sure your hands aren’t covering the microphone which is located near the lens barrel and built-in flash.
- Moose
Hi,
Any one know where the complete manual can be purchased? Or any suggestions on the best way to print the pdf file in a compact, usable format that would fit in a camera bag or pocket?
Having the options and effects while learning to use the camera’s advanced features out in the real world, would really be handy (make that necessary).
Thanks,
Dan
ps/ nice blog – thanks for your efforts
Hey Dan,
I’ve done this a couple times…first go to your local Staples or Office Depot and purchase Laser Matte White Postcards. Staples has their own branded postcards in a pack of 100 for around $12.
You then download the HS10 Manual to your computer and select print and then printer settings. In your printer settings, select the “Postcard” size (5.5″x4.25″) and begin printing the manual. You can also select which pages to print, if you don’t want to print the entire manual.
Once it’s done printing, just go down to your local Staples or Office Depot and they can bind the manual together.
If you need an even smaller size, you can try printing two pages from the manual onto one postcard. This makes the type very small, but if you have great vision then go for it!
Thanks for stopping by!
-Moose