Canon Rebel T2i Compatible Lenses
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Howdy friends! I received a couple questions about compatible lenses for the Canon Rebel T2i…
- How do I know which lenses will work with the T2i?
- Which Tamron lenses will work with the Canon T2i?
- Which Sigma lenses will work with the Canon T2i?
- What is the T2i focal length or 35mm equivalent mean?
Canon Rebel T2i Compatible Lenses
The Canon T2i is equipped with an EF lens mount, which basically means it can accept any Canon lenses with the EF or EF-S label. If you’re feeling adventurous you can download the official Canon lens chart here to see the entire EF lens lineup. Here are some of the more popular Canon EF lenses for beginners…
- T2i Everyday Lens: Canon 50mm EF f/1.8 II
- T2i Portrait Lens: Canon 85mm EF f/1.8 USM
- T2i Zoom Lens: Canon 55-250mm EF-S f/4.0-5.6 IS
- T2i Travel Lens: Canon 18-200mm EF-S f/3.5-5.6 IS
- T2i Walk Around Lens: Canon 18-135mm EF-S f/3.5-5.6 IS
- T2i Sports Lens: Canon 70-200mm EF f/4L USM
- T2i Wide-Angle Lens: Canon 10-22mm EF-S f/3.5-4.5 USM
- T2i Macro Lens: Canon 60mm EF-S f/2.8 Macro USM
Tamron Lenses Compatible with the Canon T2i
When searching for compatible Tamron lenses, just make sure they are compatible with the Canon EF mount. Here are some of the more popular Tamron lenses that are compatible with the T2i…
- Tamron 18-200mm AF f/3.5-6.3 XR
- Tamron 18-270mm AF f/3.5-6.3 Di II VC LD
Sigma Lenses Compatible with the T2i
When searching for compatible Sigma lenses, just make sure they are compatible with the Canon EF mount. Here are some of the more popular Sigma lenses that are compatible with the T2i…
- Sigma 18-250mm f/3.5-6.3 DC OS HSM IF
- Sigma 18-125mm f/3.8-5.6 AF DC OS HSM
- Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM
Canon Rebel T2i Focal Length Info for Beginners
The T2i and many other digital SLRs have sensors that are smaller than the size of 35mm film. So when you attach a lens to the T2i, you have to add in the focal length multiplier to get your actual 35mm equivalent. The focal length multiplier for the T2i is 1.6x. For example, if we attach a 50mm lens to the T2i the actual focal length would be 80mm (50 x 1.6 = 80).
You may be wondering why you need to know this…lets say you have a compact camera that starts out at 24mm and you have the T2i with the kit lens which starts out at 18mm. When you add in the multiplier, the actual focal length of the kit lens is 28mm to 88mm. So your compact camera would actually have a wider field of view than the kit lens. Likewise, if the telephoto on your compact camera is 300mm and you attach a Canon EF-S 55-250mm to your T2i, the actual focal length of that lens would be 400mm. So the zoom lens on the T2i would get you closer to the action.
I hope this clears up some of the questions surrounding lens compatibility for the Canon T2i. Happy Shooting!
Boy, am I happy I found your site. Like most people asking you questions, I’m new to the DSLR world and need a little advice. Right now, I’m looking at a T2i, and I’m trying to find the best lenses for my purposes. I’m a mom, so most of my pictures are of my kids (and usually indoors), but I would take more pictures of nature if I had the camera to do it. I’m definitely interested in landscapes (there are many times when I wish I had a nice camera to capture the cloudy sky around here) and flowers and colors. I just want to take pretty pictures! But I’m also trying to stay under $1,000 for everything. I’m thinking of two different possibilities: 1) I buy the body, a Tamron 18-270, and a nifty fifty. 2) I save a little money and buy the camera with the kit 18-55, then a canon 55-250 for distance, and the nifty fifty. I’m pretty sure I want that 50, since I take so many head shots of my kids. But is 50mm too much? We don’t have the biggest house… I would appreciate any advice you have for me, so I don’t end up throwing my money away. Thank you so much!
Hi Jackie
Welcome to the site. I think you have more or less answered your own question. The T2i is a great camera. Your interests would seem to suggest that the Tamron 18-270mm piezo version would be your best bet. It has great versatility coupled with a constant minimum focus of 49cm. The Canon 55-250mm is a capable lens,but has a minimum focus distance of 1m. The Tamron would let you get up close and personal and also take in landscape and nature shots. If you are looking at reviews of these lenses, don’t be put off by the nit-picking ‘experts’. In real world photography for amateurs like us, they are good lenses.
Here in England the T2i / 550d and the Tamron 18-270mm pzd will set you back about £900, so I would think that it would be well within your price range of $1000.
Regards
PBked
Hi I like to know if I can use my old canon Rebel lens on a new T2i? If I can just buy the camera I can save some money please let me know.
Thank you very much!
Hi Yaqueline
Yes you can or any other EF mount lens for that matter.
PBked
hey moose, my husband bought me a T2i for christmas last year. i do alot of outside shots, my question is can you recommend a lens that i would be able to take pics of the stars night time photos and the moon.
thanks for your help
This is a tricky question. The lens would depend on what kind of night photography of the stars and moon you would like to capture. Basically, a sturdy tripod is a MUST along with a shutter remote. You can get interesting star trails with a wide angle lens like a 28mm lens. 35mm or 50mm will work just as fine, you’re going to have long exposure times so a remote for the bulb function is a must. Now if you want really crisp star photos, you will need a motorized mount for your tripod. You will need to set the motor so that it moves along with the earths rotation so you can get a crisp picture. If you want a decent sized imagine of the moon a telephoto lens with a teleconvertor, or a telescope would be recommended. That’s pretty much the basics. But in general, night time photography, you kind of always need a tripod, unless there is an extremely generous light source somewhere or you’re using speedlites. You can opt for fast lenses for low lighting situations. Personally, I think the 50mm F/1.8 and 85mm F/1.8 USM are great lenses for night time photography, lots of bokeh opportunity and performs well under low light. This was a general answer to your question, I’m not sure if it helped… Ultimately, I HIGHLY recommend a GOOD tripod for night time photography, you don’t want the wind shaking up your picture.
Thanks for all of your great advice, I was wondering what off brand lenses you would recommend if any or should I just stay with canon brand lenses? Also, do you have any thoughts on long distance mirror lenses?
Howdy Kevin,
If you asked me this question 5 years ago, I would have told you to stick with Canon branded lenses. In the last few years Tamron, Sigma and Tokina have all improved the build quality, performance and sharpness of their lenses. Ultimately it comes down to the focal range you’re interested in. Sigma does a nice job with wide-angle zoom and prime lenses, while Tamron does a great job with all-in-one lens (wide-angle to telephoto) designs.
Mirror lenses tend to have lower sharpness, contrast and color when compared to standard lenses. Generally speaking, I tend to stay away from mirrored lenses. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Howdy Moose!
Your website is awesome! thank so much for all the help :)
I recently got a canon t2i and someone asked me to be the photographer for their wedding…What lens would be best for that? What lens on a budget (a small budget! :) ) would be best for that? I think I read a comment where you suggested a wide angle lens, is that what all wedding photographers use? I don’t really like the way wide angle lenses make pictures look.
Also, it seems like there isn’t a lens that I could get every kind of picture I wanted from it – but surely I can’t change lenses in the middle of shooting a wedding, right??
Thanks ahead of time :):)
Ivy
Howdy Ivy,
If you’re on an extremely tight budget, I’d go with the nifty fifty Canon 50mm f/1.8 II. This lens will allow you to capture a shallow depth of field thanks to it’s super bright f/1.8 aperture. The shallow depth of field is great for soft portraits against silky smooth backgrounds and abstract shots (bride and grooms hands). This lens will also allow you to get faster shutter speeds in low light at lower ISO’s, which means sharper shots and cleaner looking images. The one problem you’ll run into is focal length. The 50mm can’t zoom in or out, so you’ll have to physically walk around to frame the shot. If you’re in a small room or cramped space it may be difficult to get a composition that you’re happy with. In those situations, jump back to your 18-55mm kit lens which will give you a wider field of view (helpful when shooting groups).
If you wanted to only bring one lens, I’d recommend the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 (see here). This lens will allow you to capture a shallow depth of field for portraits, retain fast shutter speeds in low light for sharp shots and also give you a wide enough field of view for group photos. However, this lens is a bit more pricey than the nifty fifty.
Hope that helps!
- Moose
Thanks!! You’re awesome! :)
Hi,
Thanks so much for all of these tips! I just got a t2i for my birthday, and I’m having to try and learn how to use it now. I’m always on the go and therefore don’t use a tripod, and I am also limited when it comes to money, so do you have any suggestions for a lens to get that has an incredible zoom? I like taking pictures of buildings that are far away / city scenes / birds / etc.
Also, I just have the standard lens that my camera came with, how much better are lenses that are good specifically for portraits? I take a lot of portrait pictures…
Thanks so much!
Howdy Brittany,
Great questions…if you’re interested in a telephoto lens, I’d start with the 55-250mm with IS (image stabilization) or the 70-300mm with USM (ultra sonic focusing motor). Both lenses are super affordable and will allow you to zoom into a distant subject.
The 55-250mm will compliment your 18-55mm kit lens and allow you to capture beautiful telephoto shots with the added assistance of image stabilization. Image stabilization can help reduce camera shake when shooting distant subjects with no movement, like city scenes, however, image stabilization won’t be able to freeze fast action, like flying birds.
With the 70-300mm lens you’ll have longer reach with the added benefit of USM focusing. USM will give you quieter and faster auto-focus which is helpful when shooting fast action.
As for comparing the kit lens to a dedicated portrait lens, the biggest difference is maximum aperture. Aperture determines the depth of field. Lower f/numbers (f/2.8 or lower) allow you to capture a shallow depth of field which isolates your subject against a blurry background (great for portraits). Higher f/numbers (f/8 or higher) will lengthen the depth of field which puts more of the scene in focus (great for landscapes).
On the kit lens the maximum aperture at wide angle (18mm) is f/3.5, while the maximum aperture at telephoto (55mm) is f/5.6. When shooting portraits you’ll want to be inside the ideal portrait zoom range which is generally between 50mm and 130mm. So if you shoot at 55mm on your kit lens, the lowest aperture you’ll be able to obtain is f/5.6 which really won’t give you that isolated look. To make your portraits “pop” off the image, you’ll need a lens that can get to f/2.8 or lower.
The 50mm f/1.8 is the most popular choice among beginners because it’s both affordable and super sharp from edge to edge. With this lens you’ll be able to shoot inside the ideal portrait zoom range and obtain an aperture of f/1.8 which will shorten the depth of field considerably. As an added benefit, this lens will also give you faster shutter speeds at lower ISO’s when shooting in low light situations. Check out my full 50mm f/1.8 recommendation for more info.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thanks so much for all the tips!!! Now I’m just having a hard time picking one lens! So if I wanted a lens that was good for zooming and portraits outside, was inexpensive, and I didn’t have to use a tripod for….what lens would that be? Does one like that exist? I was kind of hoping to get one for <=$200 ish, and I know that is difficult to do with lenses…..
thanks!
Brittany
Howdy Brittany,
All three of the lenses mentioned are right around your $200 budget. My advice is to go with the lens that best matches your the types of photography that interest you most. If you take more portraits than you do distant subjects, then I would start with the 50mm f/1.8 and save up for a telephoto lens in the future.
You can still take nice portraits with both the telephoto zooms that I mentioned, however, you’ll loose the shallow depth of field and low light shooting ability.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hey Moose!
Thanks! I ordered the Portrait lens and have been using it all day – it takes a long time to focus! Is that something I am doing wrong, because I know my standard lens takes quite a while to focus as well. I have my first photography session for a toddler this next week, and I’m afraid about this lag…is there anything I can do to speed things up??
thanks,
Brittany
Howdy Brittany,
Couple questions…Are you shooting in low light? What focus mode are you using?
- Moose
I use auto focus. I was shooting inside for a while in normal house lights – a couple lamps and such, and outside for the rest, in shade and sun. It just takes forever to focus everywhere. The worst inside probably.
Hi
Thank you for guiding lot of people with your valuable suggestions. I just bought Canon T2i camera and I wish to buy a simple/plain/clear protector filter/lens to protect the actual lens from scratches/dust/finger prints etc. I do not know what it is called and where to get it. FYI., I am new to the SLR world and I am trying to learn the basics.Could you please let me know if there is any such protector /filter exists and what it is called.
BTW., thank you for your advise/post about the GGS LCD protector. It is very nice.
Thank you in advance
Lakshman
Howdy Lakshman,
Sounds like you’re looking for a UV filter to protect your lens. Check out my recommendations here. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hello Moose,
I am new to your web-site, and have found it very helpful. I have a question that I am hoping you may be able to help me with? We got our T2i to take pictures of our son who plays baseball, I have been told to get the 70-300mm IS lens so we can get close to the action. I am wondering what you would recommend on a lighter budget. We also would like to take his senior pictures so would this be a good all around lens to?
Howdy Kevin,
Take a look at the non-image stabilized 70-300mm USM (ultra sonic motor) lens. This lens is significantly cheaper than it’s image stabilized brother.
For outdoor sports shots, image stabilization really won’t help you out anyway. Image stabilization is meant to reduce camera shake in low light situations when shooting motionless subjects. The lens comes equipped with USM which will give you quieter and faster focusing when compared to non USM lenses.
The 70-300mm zoom range is plenty long enough for shooting baseball. If he is int he outfield, you may need to physically walk over to his side of the field to get tighter framing.
As for senior photos, you might want to consider getting the very affordable 50mm f/1.8 lens. This lens will allow you to capture a very shallow depth of field (small area in focus) which will isolate your son against a silky smooth background. You can read my full recommendation for this lens here.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi Moose! How’s everything? I can’t wait for you to publish your blog and show us some of your non-commercial images :)
Anyway, the reason I’m posting a comment is to ask your opinion on something. I’m planning to get a portrait lens. Which would you recommend, a 35mm, a 50mm or an 85mm one? Budget is of course an issue, but my main concern is which of these would be best for portrait use.
Thank you,
- Jim
I just realized that T2i has a crop factor of 1.6x. Taking that into account (as well as your advise on the optimum focal range for portraits of 50mm-120mm), I guess 85mm is out of the question. Now, I guess my question is, which would you recommend – the 50mm f1.4 or the 35mm f2.0 (unfortunately, the lower f stops for each of these lenses is out of my budget right now lol)? If you can explain why too, that would be great.
Thanks again!
- Jim
Howdy Jim,
You are correct about the crop factor and “ideal” portrait zoom range. However, the 85mm is actually my favorite portrait lens of the bunch (both for personal and professional work), even though the effective focal point is just beyond the 120mm mark.
The one thing you’ll have to take into consideration is the number of shots indoors versus outdoors. If you’re shooting in tight spaces (small rooms), the 50mm and 85mm lenses will feel a bit long and it’ll be tough to get the composition you’re after. If you’re shooting in larger sized rooms or outdoors, then the 50mm and 85mm lenses would do just fine.
Best of luck!
- Moose
Thanks for the reply Moose! I appreciate your input! :)
Hey Moose,
I will be getting my Canon T2i sometime within the next week or so, and I’m really trying to learn as much as possiable so I can get very nice photos ranging anywhere from around the house, my children playing at the park,landscape, and animal shots. I have 3 very busy kids all under the age of 5 and I want to make sure I capture alot of memories. The kit I have ordered came with the standard canon ef-s 18-55 and a sigma 50-200mm HSM. I was wondering if you could give me some advice on how I can get the best out of those lenses. Do I need to order macro lenses, wide angle? And if so will any macro or wide angle lens do? This is also my first DSLR camera. So I am very new to everything.
I appreciate everything you have done on creating a site to help people better their photograhy needs.
Thank you
Sheena
Hi Moose,
I purchased my T2i camera to take pictures of my daughters dance recitals. Her performances are usually indoor with low lighting. I seen you recommended the Canon 55-250mm lens to someone else for their daughters cheerleading, would that be the best way to go for dance as well? Would you also recommend a speedlight flash? If, so which one? Thanks in advance and I’m glad I found your website.
~iris
Howdy Iris,
It all depends on your budget. If you’re limited to $300 or less, then the Canon 55-250mm would be your best option. If you can afford to spend a bit more then the Canon 70-200mm f/4, the Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 or the Tamron 70-200mm f/2.8 would be your next best option.
The biggest difference between the two price points is maximum aperture. With the 55-250mm you’ll be limited to shooting at a maximum aperture of f/5.6 towards the telephoto end of the lens. With the Canon 70-200mm, you’ll be limited to shooting at f/4 throughout the zoom range. With the Sigma or Tamron 70-200mm, you can shoot as low as f/2.8.
Lower f/numbers will allow you to get faster shutter speeds at lower ISO’s. Faster shutter speeds will ensure your subject is sharp and lower ISO’s will give you cleaner looking images (less noise).
As for speedlites, it really depends on how far your daughter is from you and how large the room is. If you’re shooting in a large auditorium and you’re more than 20 feet away from the stage, then a speedlite really won’t help. In those situations, you’ll need to rely on fast shutter speeds and natural lighting to illuminate the subject.
If your daughter dances in an average sized room and you can get within a few feet of her, then the Canon 580EX II would be your best choice. It’s the most powerful Canon flash and it’ll emit a very bright burst of light. By angling the flash upwards towards the ceiling, you’ll be able to get more natural looking shots indoors without harsh shadows and interfering with their concentration. If you don’t have the budget for the 580EX, then the next best option would be the 430EX II.
Happy shooting! – Moose
Hello again Moose! Your help has been invaluable, and much appreciated.
I’m in a bit of a quandry, I’d like to get an IS zoom, and have been looking at the Canon 50-250 as well as the Sigma 50-200. I would really appreciate your opinion, the pro’s and con’s to each of these. I’ve found that my old Canon 70-300 works really well, but when hand held, the lack of the IS system really obvious when I crop photos.
Again, thanks for all your help!!
Howdy Orzel,
You’ve done your homework…the Sigma 50-200mm f/4-5.6 and Canon 55-250mm f/4-5.6 are both excellent starter telephoto lenses.
Considering the 1.6x crop factor on the T2i, you’re looking at a max focal length of 320mm with the Sigma and 400mm with the Canon. So if reach is your biggest need, then the Canon 55-250mm would be the obvious choice.
If focus speed is most important to you, then the Sigma 50-200mm would be the better option. It comes equipped with HSM (hyper sonic internal focus motor) which is a bit faster that the DC motor supplied with the Canon 55-250mm.
As far as sharpness goes, the Canon 55-250mm is a bit sharper towards the telephoto end. Towards the wide end, sharpness is about equal. Again, this is just my own personal opinion. Hope it helps!
- Moose
Thanks again Moose! As it turned out, I got a heck of a buy on a Tameron 28-300 zoom with the VC (vibration compensation) system for the Canon. Managed to pick up a very gently used one for $325, which appears to be pretty good price. Here’s hoping that I made the right choice!
Cheers!
Hi Moose! I just got my hands on my t2i two weeks ago and I couldn’t be any happier. It is my first DSLR and I’m a newbie in this field. I just got to tell you – your site and your every reply to all the questions in here has helped me a lot. So, for that, I want to thank you for your articles and your replies to every question that has been asked.
I’ll keep reading through all the articles and questions here so I’ll learn more. In the meantime, why don’t you tell us something about yourself. :)
What kind of photography are you in? Do you take pictures as a hobby or is it your job?
Again, thank you for providing us beginners a very solid stepping stone into this field.
-Jim
Howdy Jim,
Congrats on your new T2i and welcome! I really appreciate all the kind words.
I’m actually a professional commercial photographer by day and an aspiring web developer by night. Most of my photography work is licensed, which means I’m not allowed to share them online…however, I’m currently working on an online gallery page that will display all my non-commercial images. I’ve been so busy with my day job and this site that I haven’t had a chance to complete it.
I appreciate comments like yours because it lets me know that this site is helping beginners all across the world. As always, I’d be glad to help you with any questions you might have as it relates to the T2i and digital photography. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Wow this site is so much easier & way better then the 2 specific books i bought for my t2i ….i cant thank you enough i just found it & am eager to go threw completely..
I never leave home without my camera & shoot 200-500 pictures daily on average usually… I love shooting wildlife,insects, urban exploration & motox. I do alot of indoor low light with not so great results haha…im trying to shoot motox inside an arena with poor lighting i had too much noise & dark images on tv…do i need an external flash?
Could you suggest your thoughts on combo macro/telephoto lenses?
monopod/tripod ?
i have 1000 to spend on accessories for my camera now then thats it for sometime. I have the 2 kit lenses ef- s 18-55 & 55-250 & a battery grip… i welcome & appreciate suggestions on best way to spend this …Thank you so very much
Kristi,
Thanks for the kind words and welcome!
Having shot motocross professionally for over 7 years, getting great results at night or in an arena is very difficult…even with pro equipment. When I shoot motocross, I’m generally on the track and within a few feet of the action. In these situations, I generally stay away from super long telephoto lenses. However, if you’re shooting from the stands or from a distance then you’ll need a super long telephoto lens to get close to the action. On top of that, you’ll need a telephoto lens with a super bright maximum aperture of f/2.8 in order to shoot with fast shutter speeds at lower ISO’s. Fast shutter speeds will “freeze” your subject, while lower ISO’s will give you cleaner looking images.
If you combine the need for a super long telephoto lens and a super bright maximum aperture, you’re looking at some serious coin…especially for Canon branded lenses.
The Tamron and Sigma 70-200mm f/2.8 telephoto lenses are great alternatives to the super expensive Canon 70-200mm f/2.8. Both of these lenses fall inside your $1000 budget. These lenses are great for sports and wildlife photography.
On a side note…when shooting in Tv mode, enable Auto ISO and make sure the maximum Auto ISO value is set to 6400 inside the setup menu (page 63 of the T2i manual). Your photos are turning out dark because the T2i can’t get a high enough ISO to match your selected shutter speed.
For macro photography, I highly recommend the Raynox DCR-250 which clips to the front of your existing kit lenses and dramatically increases your close-up ability. Read my full recommendation here.
As for tripods and monopods, I recommend a monopod for sports and wildlife photography. Check out the Canon 500 monopod.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thank you so very much for your reply & for doing this great service for us all …. I do have one more question? Do you have any suggestions where i could find a cheat sheet if you will for the canon t2i…. its all very overwhelming to process what does what… i feel dyslexic when it comes to aperture values ect….in the moment i get mixed up as to where i wanna start ect….i know it depends on the situation & what your tying to achieve but in a dummies language i need a guide as to when to use which setting & where to start….just would be nice to have on 1 piece paper vs hauling a book out in moment
ie: water falls to get softer effect of water use AV with f-stop…..?
nightime NYC city lights ect???? ive been using tv
birds & wildlife ect….
i just get so mixed up they find myself spending more time tryin to adjust my camera
thank you again
Howdy Kristi,
Generally speaking, aperture priority mode (Av) is meant to control depth of field (area in focus) while shutter priority (Tv) is meant to control movement.
Low f/numbers capture a shallow depth of field which isolates your subject against a blurred background (great for portraits). Higher f//numbers lengthen the depth of field putting more of the scene in focus (great for landscapes.
Slow shutter speeds capture movement (great for flowing water or light trails). Fast shutter speeds freeze movement (great for sports and fast action).
I recommend picking up a copy of the Digital Photography Book by Scott Kelby. It’s more of a beginners cheat sheet rather than a book full of lengthly chapters full of technical jargon. Each page has one type of shooting situation and the recommended settings to achieve that type of shot.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hey I just bought the Canon T2i recently and along with it purchased the 55-250mm IS lens from Canon. I am new to photography so I don’t think I would be the best judge of the performance of the lens so far but I think it is a very good buy. I picked this because I wanted something to go with my kit lens and I was told that this was the best option. What do you think of this decision and do you plan on having a page the lens 55-250mm?
Brian,
The 55-250mm IS lens is one of the best “value” telephoto lenses currently available. When you consider the price, it’s pretty amazing that you get image stabilization and an effective zoom range of 88-400mm (thanks to the 1.6x crop factor on the T2i). Whenever family and friends ask me about purchasing their first telephoto lens, I always mention this one…so great choice! :)
- Moose
Hi Moose! I am a newbie to DSLR world and seriously planning to buy a canon 550D. As I have observed that the 18-55 kit lens is not well enough for 550D so can you suggest me another lens? I will use my camera for every occasion, right from wedding, friend & family, vacation
and bit wildlife too.
Thanks in advance.
Howdy Kaustav,
The 18-55mm is actually a very nice lens, considering the price. However, you’ll be limited in zoom range and maximum aperture.
Since you’ll be shooting a wide variety of subjects, you might want to look at an all-in-one lens like the Tamron 18-270mm. This lens will allow you to shoot everything from wide-angle to telephoto. The maximum aperture is about even with the kit lens so you won’t gain any advantages there.
Lenses with a very bright maximum aperture (f/2.8 or lower) will allow you to get faster shutter speeds at lower ISO’s which is important when shooting hand-held in low light situations. Lower f/numbers also shorten the depth of field, which is great for isolating a subject against a silky smooth background. The “nifty fifty” is a very popular prime lens with a very bright maximum aperture of f/1.8. Check out my 50mm f/1.8 recommendation for more info. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hello,
I am going to purchase a Rebel t2i and would like to know what the best lens would be to use in Africa to take pictures of animals in the wild and to record video. I am new at this but hope to come back with some amazing pictures. Suggestions?
Howdy Ron,
Sounds like a fun trip! For African safaris you’ll want a telephoto lens to get ‘close’ to your subjects.
Telephoto lenses can vary in price, largely due to image stabilization and maximum aperture. Image stabilization helps reduce camera shake, especially when shooting with a telephoto lens when even the smallest hand movements are magnified. Lenses with a very bright maximum aperture (f/2.8 or lower) will allow you to get faster shutter speeds at lower ISO’s. It will also shorten the depth of field, isolating your subject against a silky smooth background. Of the two features, lenses with a very bright maximum aperture (f/2.8 or lower) are the most expensive.
If you’re on a budget, I’d start with either the 55-250mm f/4-5.6 with image stabilization or the 75-300mm f/4-5.6 with an ultra sonic motor. Both lenses are very affordable and will allow you to shoot distant subjects. The 55-250mm has the added benefit of image stabilization, while the 75-300mm has the benefit of a longer zoom range and a faster (and quieter) focusing system. Happy shooting!
- Moose
I purchased the T2I last fall and got the kit with the 18mm-55mm lens and the 55mm-250mm lens. The long lens doesn’t get me quite as close-up as the big lens (500mm) on our old Fuji S2Pro, so I wanted a longer lens for the T2I. Would the 75-300mm Telephoto Zoom lens be worth the money? Would it give me noticeable improvement in zooming over what I have now? Is there another option that is affordable?
Thanks for your help!
Cheri,
The extra 50mm you’ll gain, will give you an effective improvement of 80mm thanks to the crop factor. Towards the telephoto end, 80mm is not much.
You’d be much better off buying a teleconverter, which can greatly increase the zoom power of your 55-250mm lens. A 2x converter would give you a zoom range of 110-500mm, which is effectively 176-800mm. The only negative is loosing 1 to 2 f/stops worth of light when you attach the teleconverter, which means you’ll have to use higher ISO’s to get faster shutter speeds. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thanks for your comment! What do you think about this one that I found on Amazon? It had no reviews so I am hesitant to buy it:
Rokinon 500mm f/8 Telephoto Lens with 2x Teleconverter.
Can you recommend a good quality reasonably priced teleconverter?
Cheri
Cheri,
I’m not a big fan of the Rokinon products, especially the 500m f/8 mirror lens. There are numerous problems…poor build quality, unreliable focus accuracy and lack of image detail. As for converters, any of the Canon branded converters will do. They’ve got a 1.4x and a 2x version depending on how much reach you need.
- Moose
Hi Moose!
Your website has been a big help to me. I received the Rebel T2i for Christmas and am new to this type of camera. My goal is to be able to take pictures of my daughter at cheer competition from a distance. I wanted a camera that would allow wide angle and I guess, telephoto capabilities. The lens kit is the EF-S18-55 and of course I need another lens to capture her and her entire group. What lens do you suggest for me?
Thanks,
Clare
Howdy Clare,
Glad to hear the site has been helpful to you! Sounds like you’re in the market for a good beginners telephoto lens…I’d start with the Canon 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 with image stabilization.
This lens is one of the most underrated lenses on the market in terms of sharpness, speed and overall performance. When mounted to your T2i, you’ll have an effective zoom range of 88-400mm. This will allow you to zoom in tight from a distance.
Now the biggest thing you’ll need to watch out for is image blur, especially when shooting indoors. The image stabilization will help minimize camera movements, but it won’t prevent subject blur (cheerleaders jumping).
In order to prevent subject blur, you’ll need to shoot in shutter priority mode (Tv) and select a shutter speed of 1/500 or faster. When shooting in this mode, I’d enable Auto ISO so that the T2i can accurately expose the scene.
You might also try enabling continuous (burst) mode and rattle off a series of images to increase your chances of the perfect shot.
If you want more tips for shooting indoor sports, check out my post on “Canon T2i lenses for low light sports photography.” Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thank you so much! I was thinking I should get the Tamron 18-270 based on what I read between you and others on your site. This is a much more realistic price range for me to be in since this is so new to me. Thanks again and I’m sure I’ll be contacting you again!
Clare
Just got the 85mm f1.8 lens and I’m using it on the t2i. I noticed that the lcd screen takes a while to show anything, even playback. Is this normal? The camera is sitting in room temperature and my camera is only about two months old.
Thomas,
Couple questions…are you shooting in RAW? and is your battery fully charged?
- Moose
Hi im looking at getting a t2i to replace my canon 35mm elan II e. The lenses i hav are a EF 35-80 and a ef 75-300 do you think i will be ok with these or do you think they start to high and go to high? Im kinda on a budjet so I wanted to not have to buy new lenses.
Thanks
Scott
Scott,
You’ll definitely want to get the Canon 18-55mm image stabilized lens. You can usually find them for around $170 brand new or around $130 used. The 35-80mm lens on your T2i will be equivalent to a 56mm -128mm lens on your film SLR. This is due to the image sensor being smaller than 35mm film…sometimes called the crop factor. Shooting at 56mm will basically eliminate any wide-angle shots and will make framing shots in small spaces very difficult. Start with the kit lens and the 75-300mm that you already own. That should allow you to shoot everything from wide-angle to telephoto. As you grow you can invest in more expensive lenses that match the types of photography that you’re interested in. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thanks I was able to find a pretty good deal on a camra kit with the 18-55mm. I also got the 32gb mc you recommend.
Thanks for the input.
Scott,
Fantastic, congrats on the new cam…if you ever have any questions in the future I’d be glad to help. Happy shooting!
- Moose
I have a Konica Hexanon AR 50 mm f/1.7 lens and I’m wondering if it can be used with a Canon T2i DSLR camera (or even usable with any DSLR). Thanks.
Don,
I had to talk to a few of my Konica buddies and do a bit of research. From what I gathered, you won’t be able to use it on Canon or Nikon bodies, but you might be able use it on Olympus E DSLR cameras (link). Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thanks for checking this out, Moose. I appreciate your efforts and the details in the link. About my old lens; darn the #@**# short flange distance! Don’t think I can wait for Canon to redesign their cameras to shorten up the distance to the sensor, oh well… ;)
Great site, and sincere thanks for taking the time to put this together. Just getting back into SLR photography and am awaiting delivery of my new T2i. I have several old Cannon SLR lenses that I used on my old Cannon Rebal XS (35mm film camera). One of the lenses I have is a 50mm EF lens, however it is not the type II – will this work with the new T2i?
Again, many thanks for putting this web site together, even us ‘old dogs’ can learn a lot of new tricks here!
Orzel,
To answer your question, yes, the 50mm f/1.8 Mk I will work with your T2i. You should consider yourself lucky! The original 50mm f/1.8 Mk I has much better build quality than the Mk II versions currently being sold, plus it comes with a distance scale which can be helpful. I haven’t done a side by side test, but many of my photog buddies prefer the look of images produced by the Mk I versus the Mk II. Congrats on the new cam…happy shooting!
- Moose
Thanks Moose – even a blind hog finds an acorn now and then! It’s nice to be lucky! I am so looking forward to getting re-aquainted with the ‘art’ of photography. Back in the late 60′s I had an Olympus 1/2 frame 35mm while serving in SE Asia, and loved it. Took a lot of photos, some good, most terrible – but that’s how we learn. Then came the Rebel XS, and now into the 21st century with the T2i. Again, your site has been invaluable, my sincere thanks!
Orzel
Ha, blind hogs do get lucky every once in a while! :)
I do remember the old Olympus half frame 35mm, those were fun little cameras. Glad you found my site, you’re welcome here anytime!
- Moose
I got a tamron AF18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 for Christmas and am super excited to use it.. I am already noticing the that action of the lens is very hard to use. My other cannon lenses are really smooth and take no effort.. Is this something that is just part of using this brand of lens or is it something i should return or replace as a lens defect? Thanks for any advide you can provide!
Cheree,
By “action” are you referring to the auto-focus speed of the lens? What types of subjects are you trying to shoot?
- Moose
The action to me is the manual zoom of the lens where you rotate to telescope the lens out. Once it gets past a certain point it is really hard to zoom quickly with ease. The autofocus itself seems to have issues or maybe it is me with the issues. I was attempting to shoot fireworks and I could never get it to auto focus and snap a shot. Only if I focused before the fireworks were shot was I able to get a single shot. Im sure I am doing something wrong and I am trying it in as many scenarios as I can to learn where it works best. Thanks for any advice you can give..
Cheree,
The auto-focusing issues you experienced, are primary due to shooting fireworks at night. In those situations, it’s better to enable manual focus and shoot in manual mode to ensure the best results. You’ll want to choose shutter speed around 3 seconds to capture the movement of the firework blast and a small aperture (higher f/number) around f/8 to ensure everything is in sharp focus.
Generally speaking, the Tamron 18-270mm and many other budget zooms will tend to slow down a bit when focusing at the long end of the zoom range. More expensive Canon telephoto lenses like the 70-200mm comes with USM, which allows for faster and quieter focusing.
- Moose
Moose,
I have a Vivitar Macro Focusing Zoom lens (over 25 years old but in excellent condition) from an old Canon. Is there any way to use this with the T2i or is this lens obsolete for today’s cameras? If so, is there any resale market for this lens(E-Bay or elsewhere)? Thanks
Joe,
Without knowing the exact lens it’s hard to say if it will work properly with the T2i. Generally, most third party “film” lenses that are 15+ years old do not focus reliably or meter correctly with newer DSLR’s.
There isn’t a huge market for older third party film lenses, but you could always try KEH.com. They will take your old lenses and give you credit towards a new lens that’s compatible with your T2i.
- Moose
hey moose i have the T2i with a IS 55-250 f 4-5.6 and IS 18-55(stock) lenses. I want to purchase a haze filter and a lens hood for those lenses. Since i could use them on both of the lenses.
I was thinking of getting the Canon EF 2X II Extender Telephoto Accessory with the Canon 70-200mm EF f/4L USM. It will give me all the zoom power i want.
the first question whats the difference between a telephoto lens and a regular lens?
I am going to Europe this summer and may or may not bring the tripod with me that I am planning on buying after i buy everything on my list. this leads to the second question…
does it pay to spend 400 dollars more to get image stabilizing?
the third what do you think i should do for a lens with alot of zoom, good aperature, and doesnt bleed my savings dry all on a camera?
the fourth question is would a class 4 memory card be able to handle doing raw and large photos?
the last question i have is what do i need to get or what should i get considering i have only the camera and the 2 lenses i posted above?(please consider that i have say 1000 dollar limit and that this question is a different person asking what he should buy as a bigginer)
With the Canon 70-200mm f/4L and Canon EF 2X II extender setup, you’ll be able to shoot at 140mm-400mm or an effective focal range of 280-640mm due to the T2i crop factor of 1.6x.
The problem with this setup is your maximum aperture. When shooting without the extender, the 70-200mm is capable of f/4 across the zoom range. When shooting with the extender, your ,maximum aperture will go up 2 f/stops. This means, the lowest possible f/number you can shoot at is f/5.6.
The difference between a telephoto lens and a regular lens is the focal range. “Regular” lenses usually have a zoom range between 18-55mm, whereas a telephoto lens shoots a bit longer…somewhere between 55-400mm.
Image stabilization will only help minimize camera shake and image blur as long as the subject is motionless (landscapes, monuments, etc…). If you’re shooting moving subjects, image stabilization won’t help…in those situations you’ll have to rely on shutter speed to “freeze” the subject.
If your trip to Europe is centered around photography, then you may want to consider the types of images you’re after. If you’re shooting landscapes, buildings, landmarks, ect…then you’ll want to shoot with a wide-angle lens instead of a telephoto lens. I really like the Tokina 12-24MM f/4.0 for wide-angle shots.
I would go with a class 10 card if you plan to shoot in RAW.
The only other items you should think about adding to your arsenal are a circular polarizer and a tripod. Best of luck!
- Moose
Hi Moose!
I have two lenses left over from my “regular film” days:
- Sigma 70-210 1:2.8 APO AF zoom
- Tokina AT-X PRO AF 28-70 1:2.6-2.8
They both were used on a Canon EOS 5.
Do both lenses maintain their functionality on a T2i, that I am considering? I understand that the range these two lenses represents is not perfect, looking at the 1.6 factor, but my main question is whether they function they way they should on a new DSLR (like focusing etc). Thanks! Henri
Henri,
I wish I had great news for you, but I don’t. I talked to a few of my buddies and they said the Sigma would have to be “re-chipped” in order to work correctly with the T2i. As for the Tokina, it’s a bit of a hit and miss. When you’re using third party lenses design for for film mechanisms, you’re likely to experience issues with metering and focusing in newer digital SLR’s. Best of luck!
- Moose
Hi Moose. Awesome site. I’m close to purchasing a Canon T2i (I’d like to take pictures of a newborn, inside & outside, landscape, indoor parties, and general life stuff). Also, I’m a brand new to DSLR & photography.
The kit on B&H includes 2 lenses, both with Image Stabilization 18-55mm & 55-250mm and the total is $1,000.
My other option is to buy the body only ($650) & Tamron 18-250 lens $279, thanks for link, btw) for a total of $930.
The Canon lenses have image stabilization, while the Tamron ones don’t, but as you stated, I would appreciate having only 1 lens to start with. The $70 isn’t a big deal to me either way, but obviously I don’t want to throw money away.
Anyway, would you still recommend the Tamron over the 2 Canon lenses?
JBlaze,
Here’s the thing about image stabilization…it will only minimize camera shake when hand holding the camera in low light. It can also help reduce subject blur, as long as the subject you’re shooting is motionless…like a landscape. If you’re shooting moving subjects then image stabilization won’t help you out. In order to completely eliminate camera shake and subject blur, you’ll need to shoot using faster shutter speeds. The problem with shooting at faster shutter speeds is the ISO will jump up in order to get a proper exposure. When the ISO goes up, so does the image noise.
So in order to shoot at faster shutter speeds while keeping the ISO down, you’ll need a lens with a large aperture that can let lots of light into the camera.
So how do you know if a lens has a large aperture?
Large apertures are identified by lower aperture f/numbers. When shooting moving subjects in low light (hand-held), you’ll want a lens that shoots between f/1.4 and f/2.8. Unfortunately the lenses you mentioned don’t start out that low.
So you have a decision to make…if most of your shots will be indoors and in low light situations, then you can go the economical route and deal with the higher ISO’s or you can spend a little bit more upfront and get cleaner looking images.
I really like the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 lens for shots in and around the house. This lens will allow you to shoot at f/2.8 both at wide-angle and at telephoto. If you don’t have the money for that right now, then you could also try the Canon 50mm f/1.8. This is a fantastic lens that will allow you to shoot at f/1.8. The only hitch is that it’s a prime lens, so you’ll be stuck at the 50mm focal range.
Not to confuse you anymore, but any lens that you attach to the T2i will have to be multiplied by 1.6 to get the actual focal range. This is due to the T2i image sensor being smaller than 35mm film. So the 50mm lens, becomes an 80mm lens and the Tamron 17-50mm lens becomes a 27-80mm lens and so forth… At 80mm you’ll have some trouble framing group shots and portraits in small rooms or cramped spaces.
To answer you’re last question, if you’re choosing between the Canon kit lenses and the Tamron…I would say go for portability. The Tamron all-in-one lens will allow you to quickly zoom from wide-angle to telephoto. While the kit lenses will give you slightly sharper images, you’re stuck to carrying both lenses wherever you go. If that’s not a problem for you, then the Canon lenses will suit you well.
Best of luck in your decision!
- Moose
Thanks for the advice. I’ll probably go with a Sigma 18-200 lens because of price and quality (it seems pretty solid and offers a nice range, and I can always sell/ trade it in when I learn more about photography). I’ll also likely get a 50mm f1.8 lens.
I’m close to actually buying a camera, likely the T2i, but am also looking a a Nikon D3100 (I like the autofocus on HD video, and some people tell me Nikon is a better camera in general, but it looks pretty even on the Internet).
Any thoughts on this dilema? I don’t care about a few hundred either way.
JBlaze,
Don’t put too much stock in deciding between Canon vs Nikon…it’s like asking someone if they like Coke or Pepsi. Everybody has an opinion as to which camera brand is ‘better’.
I would go with the one that feels better in your hands. If you haven’t handled either camera, run down to your local photo shop and take them for a test drive. Browse through the menu system and rattle off a few photos.
Many times, just holding the camera and using it for a few moments will allow you to make the right decision.
Unless you like to view things under a microscope, image quality will be nearly identical. Nikon and Canon process colors differently, but color settings can be adjusted to your your liking.
With this being your first DSLR purchase, I would put most of your attention on the first set of lenses you intend to buy and their price.
For instance, the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens is an excellent value and performs brilliantly with the T2i. The Nikon 50mm f/1.8 is also priced right, but it WILL NOT AUTOFOCUS on the D3100. So if you want a 50mm prime lens you’ll have to upgrade to the more expensive Nikon 50mm f/1.4 AF-S lens.
Best of luck in your decision! :)
- Moose
Hi Moose;
I have a Canon T2i and would like to purchase the Tamron 28-300mm f/3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD II Aspherical IF Macro for Canon. Before I buy this lense, I would like to make sure it is 100% compatible with my T2i. I would appreciate any advise pertaining to this lens.
Thank you very much!
Alicia
Alicia,
The Tamron 28-300mm is really designed for film SLR cameras. You’ll want to go with the Tamron 18-270mm.
The T2i image sensor is smaller than 35mm film. So if you attached the Tamron 28-300mm to the T2i, the actual focal range of the lens would be 44-480mm.
Likewise, if you attached the Tamron 18-270mm …the actual focal range would be 28-432mm. In order to get decent wide-angle shots, you’ll need the actual focal range to start somewhere at 28mm or lower. At 44mm it will be much more difficult to frame subjects in tight spaces.
Right now the Tamron 18-270mm lens currently has a $150 mail in rebate (here’s a link to download the rebate) which brings the total cost down to $480 bucks. Best of luck!
- Moose
Thank you Moose for your advise. I ordered my lens and received it yesterday. Can not wait to start using it, should be able to take some great pictures over the holidays. Do you know of any web sites that have tips for beginners when using this lens? Thank you again.
Alicia,
I don’t know of any off the top of my head, but if you have any questions about a specific type of shooting situation (parties, portraits, etc…) I’d be glad to help you out. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Moose,
Terrific site I really love it.
I’m getting ready to purchase a T2i. I am stepping way up from a Fuji FinePix S7000 that I purchased 5 years ago.
My wife and I have very different types of photography we want to do. So, my question is: should I go with a kit and then purchase an add-on lens or get just the body and get an all-in-one zoom lens like the Tamron 18-270mm I’ve seen you recommend?
My wife: wants “professional” pictures of our 18 mo old daughter taken in indoor and outdoor settings and mostly of the close up variety. She also likes pictures that have the subject in-focus with background out of focus.
Me: mostly landscapes followed by college football and lastly with some macro outdoor photos in the garden (of course sharing my wife’s interest of photos of our daughter).
Budget is important but don’t want to sacrafice too much on photo quality to get there.
Any recommendations would be appreciated!
Len,
Congrats on the new cam! Deciding on a lens for multiple shooting scenarios can be tough. I almost always recommend first time DSLR owners to go with an all-in-one lens like the Tamron 18-270mm. This will allow you to capture everything from wide-angle to telephoto. As you grow, you can begin adding new lenses that match the types of photography that you’re interested in.
If you’re wanting that “pro” look for your portraits, then you should consider getting the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens (roughly $100 bucks brand new) in addition to the Tamron. The 50mm f/1.8 prime lens has a very shallow depth of field, which will allow you to isolate your subject and create a silky smooth background effect. Lenses with lower f/numbers (large apertures) give you faster shutter speeds in low light, which can help minimize camera shake and subject blur when hand-holding your T2i.
As for macro, I highly recommend getting the Raynox DCR-250 macro converter. This converter attaches to any lens with 52-67mm filter threads. You can read more about it in my post… “How to take Great Macro Photos with the Canon Rebel T2i.” Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi Moose,
Do you know if there’s a fish-eye lens that’s compatible with the T2i?
Thanks!!
Tulio,
Yes, the Canon 15mm Fisheye EF f/2.8 lens is compatible with the T2i.
- Moose
Hey Moose,
I am planning to get the Rebel T2i before the Miami trip on coming Thanks Giving weekend. I was searching a for forum where I can post my queries and found this one as perfect for me.
I am looking for a walk-around lens for my T2i which will not force me to change lens in between shots on outdoor trip. I zeroed in on two lens and they are Canon 18-135mm IS and Tamron 18-250mm (per your suggestion). Definitely, Tamron is giving me good feeling on pocket, however wanted to clear few confusions before going ahead with anything.
1. How will it affect daily photography for not having an IS (VC) on Tamron? Is it really necessary?
2. How does the Tamron perform in HD Video shooting compared to Canon 18-135mm?
Expecting some strong reasoning from you.
Kaushik,
1. Image stabilization is helpful when shooting stationary subjects on low light. If you’re shooting anything with movement, then you’ll need a faster shutter speed to prevent subject blur. Image stabilization is a nice feature, however, it does not completely eliminate camera shake. The best solution is to use a tripod in low light situations, and get your hand completely off the camera. Obviously, there are times when you won’t have a tripod with you, so image stabilization will help ‘minimize’ the movements you make when shooting at slower shutter speeds. Tamron also has a Tamron 18-270mm lens that comes equipped with image stabilization. I believe there is a mail in rebate available for this lens, which brings it closer to the Canon 18-135mm lens price.
2. The Tamron 18-270mm and Canon 18-135mm lenses will give you very similar results due to their aperture range starting out at f/3.5. You may get slightly faster auto-focus with the Canon lens, however, if you’re shooting HD video on the T2i you’ll quickly find that it’s better to lock focus before recording each video segment rather than focusing while recording.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi, will a canon ef-s 17-85mm is usm lens work properly with the T2i? i thought it would and just got one. the camera has an error that says it’s not communicating correctly at times. It seems to only happen outside and at lesser focal ranges, ie. 17mm
I just want to know if it’s a compatibility issue or if it’s a bad lens.
Thanks,
Joe
Howdy Joe,
Yes, the EF-S 17-85mm should work perfectly with the T2i. If you’re experiencing ‘communication’ errors, make sure the electrical contacts on the lens are clean. If you continue getting errors, I would imagine it has something to do with the lens and not your T2i. I would call Canon support in your area and they can fix the lens if it’s still under warranty.
- Moose
Extra nice site for those who need expert opinion. I got my EOS 550D today. Love it. Can you for those in tight budget what lens, filter and flash they should buy? Also I could not find your tips about taking video by EOS 550D.
Tomal,
I’d be glad to help you out…if you’re not sure what type of lens you’re after then I’d start with the Tamron 18-270mm “all-in-one” lens. This will allow you to shoot everything from wide-angle to telephoto. As you grow, you can begin investing in lenses that match your interests (portraits, landscapes, etc…).
As for filters, I would start by getting a Hoya Circular Polarizer. A circular polarizer will help you get deep blue skies when shooting outdoors which will improve the overall look of your photos.
If you’re looking for an external flash on a budget, I would look at the Canon Speedlite 270EX. It works wonderfully with the T2i and allows you to bounce light off a ceiling for more natural looking portraits and group shots when shooting indoors.
Best of luck!
- Moose
Moose,
Your website is an invaluable resource for a dslr noob such as myself, Thank You. I notice on your site you have no mention of the canon 100mm 2.8, any specific reason? I purchased this lens used at a good price, and am blown away by the sharpness, the bokeh it produces, basically everything the lens has to offer, amazes me. As compared to the kit lens 18-55, ther is no comparison whe it comes to sharpness. I am very satisfied with this being my first lens investment.
I am planning to go to a zoo with an abundance of natural habitats that are not close up, 60+ feet away from observation stations. I would like to minimize the ammount of lenses that I carry for this outing, do you reccomend one “does it all” lens for this situaton?
What is your take on renting lenes?
Richard,
I’m assuming you have the Canon 100mm f/2.8 lens which has some amazing optics. The only reason you don’t see that lens mentioned on this site is because of it’s price when purchased new. For a beginner, investing $500+ in a prime lens can be very difficult. However, if you’re lucky to find it used in good condition for a low price, then you should pat yourself on the back! It’s really a fantastic lens, capable of some amazing medium range shots and beautiful close-ups.
An all-in-one lens like the Tamron 18-270mm is an excellent choice for a day at the zoo. You’ll be presented with many different subjects at many different zoom levels. There will be times when a moment presents itself and changing lenses is out of the question. The Tamron won’t give you the same optical quality as your Canon 100mm f/2.8, but it will allow you to get a better composition since you can shoot everything from wide-angle to telephoto.
Unless you’re renting a very expensive lens, I would always recommend buying a lens rather than renting. Most rental companies charge an arm and a leg for rentals and you’ll never get that money back. Plus, if you rent a lens and get sick or experience really bad weather then you’re just throwing money down the drain. Lenses really hold their value, much better than digital SLR’s. A used lens that you buy today, can probably be sold in a couple months for the same price or a few bucks less.
- Moose
Hi Moose,
I am heading to Grand canyon this weekend. I am just started with DSLR photography. I have Rebel T2i with 18-55 default kit lens that serves my general purpose. But i am looking for more lens especially for ultra wide canyons and vast coverage of vegas strip in the night time. Also interested in landscape + portrait coverage.
Can you suggest us some lens. We are actually trying to rent not to buy. So, i don’t mind even if they are costly. I probably buy them in future once i become more expert in using the lens.
Deepthi
Deepthi,
Check out my post on “T2i low light lenses” …I’ve got a section in that post that talks about recommended wide-angle lenses and “night-time” lenses for the Rebel T2i. Have a fantastic vacation!
- Moose
Hi
This website is very useful for me as beginner of DSLR photography. I recently bought T2i with canon 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 lens for my upcoming las vegas & Grand canyon trip. I need your suggestion about extra lens i would need to buy for shooting large landscapes and Night lights.
Thanks in advance.
- Subhash
Subhash,
Sounds like you and the other reader (Deepthi) is going to Vegas/Grand Canyon at the same time to shoot landscapes. I recommend that you read my post on “Canon T2i Low Light Lenses” …its got a section about wide-angle lenses for the T2i. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi Moose,
My oldest Canon camera is an old FTb. The lens for it is a Canon FD 55mm f1:1.2. (Yes, 1:1.2) Can this lens be adapted to the Canon 550D (T2i) even though it is a fully manual lens?
Same question about a lens for my old Canon AE-1. The lens is a Vivitar Series One 28-90mm f1:2.8-3.5, auto aperture, manual focus.
Thanks, Mike
Mike,
You’ll need a FD to EOS adapter in order to attach the old Canon FD 55mm lens to your T2i. You’ll also need to adjust the aperture manually on the lens. Not sure about the Vivitar lens.
- Moose
Hi Moose,
I recently bought the Canon T2i and I am receiving it tomorrow! I’m so glad I came across your site because I’m a newbie to DSLR cameras and this is my very first one. I did lots of research and with my budget and features that I wanted, the T2i was an instant winner. I even took your suggestions and I bought the Transcend 16GB memory card and the Case Logic Sling Backpack. I read up on your suggestions to the compatible lenses for the Canon T2i because I really need a “All-in-one” lens that can have the option for telephoto, wide angle, regular, etc. so that I don’t have to keep changing out the lens. If it were up to me, I would love to stick with Canon brand but I noticed that the pricing is a lot more if I stick to Canon than switching to Tamron. From the reading, it sounds like you really recommend the Tamron AF 18-250mm F/3.5-6.3 Di-II LD Aspherical (IF) Macro Zoom Lens for Canon Digital SLR Cameras. Do you recommend any other “All-in-One” lenses besides Tamron with the same zoom range capabilities and price? Thanks!
Al,
Welcome to the T2i family and congrats on your new purchase! Those first few clicks of the shutter will get you hooked so be prepared. :)
As a pro photographer I can tell you that most of my lenses match the brand of my camera, however, when recommending lenses to family and friends I always point out the Tamron 18-270mm lens. In my opinion (for the price) there isn’t a better lens to start with. The reason I say that is because when you first start out with a Digital SLR you’re taking portraits, landscapes, sports, etc… As you grow and become more skilled, you’ll begin to love certain types of photography and will want to buy lenses that excel in those situations. Think of it like buying tires for your car. You can get all-weather tires that are good in many different types of driving conditions, or you can get tires specific to a certain type of weather or performance level (snow, rain, off-roading, street, etc…). Just my 2 cents :)
- Moose
I recently purchased the Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8l USM and the EF 70-200mmf/4l IS USM lens for my T2i…I cannot shoot a clear crisp properly exposed image with either lens…the kit lens actually takes better pictures….any camera settings I need to make or the lens just not compatible???
Thanks, FunDog
FunDog,
You’ve got some expensive lenses capable of capturing some outstanding images…as you pointed out, there may be some issues with your settings. Are there specific situations where you’re experiencing these image quality problems (low-light, macro, portraits, etc…) or does it happen all the time? Do you have an online gallery with some examples?
- Moose
I feel it is best to invest in the best glass and upgrade the body as you get more experience…I am in my second year of photography school and as soon as my budget allows I’m going to purchase the 1ds mark iii (which is my dream camera)…however, back to my focus problems. I shoot mostly landscapes and do a lot of HDR…you still need proper focus to process good HDR’s…it seems to be pretty much across the light spectrum…any settings within the T2i I should be aware of? Maybe just a learning curve…
Thanks, Moose
FunDog,
Since your primary “focus” is landscapes and HDR, you’ll want to start by enabling aperture priority mode (Av on the mode dial) and selecting an aperture of f/8 or higher. As you probably already learned in photography school, the smaller your aperture (higher f/number) the larger the depth of field. When your depth of field is increased, more of the frame will come into focus…including subjects in the foreground and background. The problem when shooting at smaller apertures (higher f/numbers) is that your camera will need to select a slower shutter speed in order to get a proper exposure. The slower shutter speeds will cause not only “camera shake”, but also subject blur. In order to get faster shutter speeds, you’ll need to increase the ISO which will bring in image noise. If your landscape doesn’t have any moving subjects, then using a slower shutter speed is fine as long as you have a tripod (I like this tripod for beginners). Sounds like you have some high aspirations, keep up the great work!
- Moose
Thanks, makes sense…
I found your site a day later they I wish I would have thanks for the great info. I purchased the T2i last week with the “upgraded” 18-135 kit lens. Had I found your site sooner I think I would have got the regular kit and the tamron lens you recommend. I’m already craving a zoom lens, I’m looking at the canon 70-300mm IS usm ($550,) What do you think of this lens? I would assume the Tamron lens would be a little redundant already having the 18-135? I plan to use it for some wildlife photography but I don’t have the budget to get the L class lenses at this point.
Thanks for any input.
Kevin,
The Canon 18-135mm is a great lens, so don’t beat yourself up too much! :) In your situation, I would start out with the Canon 55-250mm IS lens. This lens is about half the cost of the Canon 70-300mm IS lens and has almost the same amount of reach. When mounted to the T2i, the 55-250mm is 88-400mm and the 70-300mm is 112-480mm due to the 1.6 crop factor. So when comparing the telephoto end, you’re only talking about a difference between 400mm and 480mm which is very small…almost unnoticeable.
- Moose
WOW! Thanks Moose!!
As you may have noticed I’m a beginner and this is my very first DSLR camera and I love it!! I have read the whole manual to get the best out of my camera but it wasn’t ’til now (after reading your response to my question) that I understand the whole shutter speed and IS completely!
Thank you so so so much, you rock!
Kriver,
Glad I could help…that’s exactly why I created this site! :)
- Moose
i have several lenses and several rebels i typically keep a lens attached to a camera to minimize exposure to dirt on the cmos. do you know if the canon 1.4 or 2.0 extenders work with the rebels.
Rod,
Yes both extenders work with the T2i. In fact Canon just released version III of these teleconverters, so the version II that is currently on the market should drop in price over the next few months.
- Moose
Hi Moose,
I recently bought a t2i kit on Ebay and it came with the following lenses:
– Tamron AF28-80mm
– Tamron AF75-300mm
– Bower 500mm
– Zeikos telephoto 58mm (telephoto & wide angle)
Can you give me a quick idea of which ones I should use when? Most importantly, which one will get me the most shots without having to change it frequently (i have kids so most of them would involve them). The other shots I would be taking are of products (menu cards, centerpieces, florals).
Thanks in advance!
JG
JGandhi,
Welcome to the T2i family! The lenses you mentioned are typical of eBay packages. Vendors package really cheap and poor performing lenses with a great camera like the T2i and people snatch them up like candy. The Canon T2i has a crop factor of 1.6x. This basically means that any lens you attach to the T2i, you’ll have to multiply the focal range by 1.6 to get the “actual” focal range. So your Tamron 28-80mm will actually be 44mm-128mm and your Tamron 75-300mm will actually be 120mm-480mm. This zoom range is fine if you intend on taking lots of telephoto shots, however, with small children you’ll find yourself wanting a much wider field of view. The Canon 18-55mm lens for instance is actually 28-88mm on the T2i. 28mm is much wider than 44mm, thus the Canon kit lens would give you a much wider field of view than the Tamron.
I know it’s a hassle, but I would sell or trade all four of those lenses for the Tamron 18-270mm lens. On the T2i, the Tamron 18-270mm is actually 28mm-432mm which would give you wide-angle and telephoto ability all with one lens.
If trading or selling the lenses is out of the question, I would try using the Tamron 28-80mm most of the time since this is the most favorable zoom range for taking portraits. Best of luck!
- Moose
Whoops, I forgot, I’ll want to be shooting in some low light situations like early AM dusk/evening and around a campfire. Will the f/3.5 be a wide enough aperature to shoot then?
MichChef,
You can shoot at f/3.5, but your shutter speed will begin to slow down as the light decreases which increases the odds of camera shake and subject blur. In order to get a faster shutter speed, you’ll need to increase the ISO which will increase the image noise in your photos. With a fast f/1.8 lens like the Canon 50mm f/1.8, you can get faster shutter speeds at lower ISO’s. You also get the added benefit of increased depth of field for dramatic portraits where your subject is in focus and everything around them is silky smooth.
- Moose
Hi Mr. Moose,
I just put the T2i on my Christmas want list and I know my wife is going to freak about the price. The thing is, I can’t see spending the money for the kit when I know that shortly I’ll want a lens with more oomph. So far in this post I’ve seen you praise the Tamron AT 18-270 and then turn around and recommend the Tamron 18-250 to a beginner. Well hopefully that will soon be me, but after doing a little research I see that the 18-270 has the VC feature but the 18-250 doesn’t. Wouldn’t I be better off with the VC?
Also, I see that shooting in monochrome is an option on the T2i. Is monochrome the same as black and white? I used to take some pretty good shots in b&w with my old film 35mm.
MichChef,
Deciding on the kit vs the body-only can be a difficult decision. For the average beginner photographer, 90% of their shots will be between the 18-55mm (28-88mm on the T2i) focal range. If you love to shoot wildlife and sports, then you’ll soon be itching for a telephoto lens. The all-in-one Tamron lenses are great because they allow you to go from wide-angle to telephoto all with one lens. They’re also reasonably priced with very good build quality.
The biggest difference between the two all-in-one Tamron lenses is Image Stabilization. The more expensive 18-270mm comes with this feature, while the 18-250mm does not. Image stabilization will only “minimize” camera shake or the tiny movements your hand makes while holding the camera. In order to eliminate camera shake completely you’ll need to use a tripod.
Yes, monochrome is the same as black and white. Best of luck with your decision!
- Moose
Ok, I’m confused. All the lenses you just mentioned are not IS right? The Tamron 18-270mm is this IS? And if it’s not, will I need a tripod so that my pictures won’t come out shaky and stuff?
I need a cheap everyday lense with IS, I really don’t want to be carrying a tripod everywhere with me. lol
Thank you in advance! Your site is great!
Kriver,
Some of the lenses mentioned above have Image Stabilization built-in. Yes, the Tamron 18-270mm lens has image stabilization.
Image stabilization will only “minimize” camera shake…meaning it will not eliminate it completely. You have to imagine yourself giving someone brain surgery. The slightest hand movements can cause problems to your photos. Image stabilization basically dampens the jerky movements your hand might make when taking a photo. Now image stabilization, will not “freeze” your subject. If you have fast moving kids, image stabilization will not be able to reduce the blur from their movements. For this, you’ll need a fast enough shutter speed to eliminate any chance of subject blur.
A tripod will allow you to completely eliminate camera shake. In the same way image stabilization dampens your hand movements, a tripod allows you to get your hands off the camera so it’s completely still. A tripod however, will not “freeze” your subject. You will still need a fast enough shutter speed to prevent subject movement or blur in your photos.
Generally you want a shutter speed around 1/250 to 1/500 in order to freeze most subject blur. For really fast moving subjects, you may need to increase the shutter speed to 1/1000. Best of luck!
- Moose
I could have missed it, but if you don’t have it by now, then you should look into having a guest book for general questions that you may have not covered specifically in a post.
Then again, keeping it this way helps keep the comments relevant to the post subject.
I’m never planning on making money from my pictures, therefore I don’t really feel the need to spend a ton of money (I have a lot of hobbies that consist of gadgets and expensive items, so I’m somewhat limited) on a lens.
The question: What’s the best zoom lens to get? I understand prices can range greatly, but how do the Tamron lens (like the 18-250 mm) and the Canon lens (like the 55-250 mm) you mentioned compare to each other? I just have the kit lens and would like more zoom without paying for over $500.
Is the Tamron worth the extra $100 for an amateur/novice/just for fun photographer?
Rob,
If you’re on a budget, then you can’t go wrong with the Tamron 18-270mm lens. I’ve recommended this lens to family and friends, so I can highly recommend this lens to other beginners just like you. What I find is that some people get so caught up in viewing images at 100% that they forget about photography all together. Photography should be a fun experience and a lens like the Tamron 18-270mm will give you the ability to shoot many different types of photos all with one lens.
As for comparing the two lenses you mentioned, the Canon 55-250mm might give you slightly sharped images, but at the same time it will restrict you to just telephoto shots while the Tamron will allow you to shoot from wide-angle to telephoto. The Canon 55-250mm lens does come with image stabilization which can help minimize “camera shake”, however, if you’re shooting distant subjects that move then the IS really won’t help “freeze” their movements…for that you’ll need to increase the shutter speed on your T2i.
In your case I’d go with the Tamron, just my 2 cents!
- Moose
Hey Moose,
I’m very thankful for this site you have. I am a beginner and have an interest in wedding photography. What kind of lenses you would recommend for weddings. Indoor and out. Since I live in Hawaii, they’ll be a lot of beach weddings. Is there an all-around lense? I am on a budget but would still like your thoughts on different lenses regardless of price. I have another question… I heard that some lenses are not compatible with certain bodies. (EF / EF-S) If i were to purchase a newer body later, should I be concerned with the type of lense i purchase now? Thanks a lot and sorry for all the questions. :) Keoni
Keoni,
With wedding photography you’ll want a wide-angle lens and a really good portrait lens. Wide-angle lenses are very expensive, but they’ll allow you to get group shots in very tight situations. If you’re on a tight budget, I’d start with the 18-55mm kit lens and then save up for the Canon 10-22mm lens. As for a good portrait lens, I’d go with the Canon 85mm lens. This lens will allow you to get stunning portraits of the bride and groom, along with other creative shots.
I wouldn’t worry too much about future compatibility with lenses and Canon bodies. Just equip yourself with lenses that are in your budget and are capable of the types of images you’re after.
- Moose
Moose, Thank you. I am as new to photography as you can get. I have learned more in the last 1/2 hour reading your comments than I ever thought possible.
Again thank you
Paul F
Paul,
I’m glad the comments were helpful to you! This site is really dedicated to helping beginners just like you…glad to have you stop by!
- Moose
Thanks Moose that completely clears it up for me.
My T2i Kit includes the following (Used your recommendations):
Purpose: Kids/Family Portrait. Mostly indoor and rarely outdoor.
EF-S 17-55 f/2.8 (Always on)
EF 50 f/1.8 (Portrait)
EF 85 f/1.8 (Tele/Portrait)
EF-S 55-250 f/3.5 (Zoom – Hardly used)
Yogesh,
Thanks for sharing!
- Moose
Hey moose im a little confused here. After talking to some friends i was told that the 50mm f/1.4 would let more light in than the 35mm f/2 because it allows the aperture to be opened wider, this is the same guy however that told me that the lens wouldnt fit my camera in the first place. Then someone i work with told me that the 35mm f/2 was better b/c even though it doesnt allow the aperture to go as wide as the 50mm f/1.4 its a wider lens to begin with (i guess in the actual width of the face of the lens itself?)so that would be the best way to go for low light situations. Also in regards to the 35mm does it zoom at all and can the blurriness of the background be tailed back without sacrificing the non graininess of low light video? Could you elaborate on this any further. I’m getting a little confused.
Whitney,
- Yes, the 50mm f/1.4 will allow more light to enter the camera, BUT only when using it at f/1.4. If you increase the aperture on the 50mm lens to f/2 then it will let in the same amount of light as the 35mm at f/2. When shooting video, you’ll most likely be shooting around f/2.8 to f/4 in order to get most of the scene in focus, while maintaining a blurry background. F/1.4 will only be used in very specific shooting situations where you want a VERY small area to be in focus, with the rest of the scene blurred out.
- As I had touched upon in my last comment to you, the 35mm captures a wider field of view than the 50mm lens. So lets say your taking video of a landscape. The 35mm will capture a wider view from left to right than the 50mm. This is especially helpful when shooting indoors when you don’t have a whole lot of room to back up.
- The 35mm is a prime lens. Prime lenses like the 35mm and the 50mm lens do not zoom. For video, I recommend you stick with your kit lens as it will allow you to zoom from 28mm to 88mm.
Hope that helps,
Moose
thanks for the quick reply moose. will i see an immediate impact in the low light video situations simply by atttatching the Ef 50mm f/1.4? if i stick with the kit lens what settings would you reccommend? i usally try to keep my iso below 1600 to avoid graininess. i also have a 75-300mm without stabilazation, but even with a tripod i think its grainier than the kit lens. thanks in advance and your site is is extremely helpful.
Whitney,
In regards to video, the biggest advantage the 50mm f/1.4 will give you is the ability to control depth of field . At f/1.4 you’ll be able to have a small area of razor sharp focus, with the rest of the frame blurred out. This is great for isolating objects and creating a mood to your movies. Here’s a movie taken with the T1i and the 50mm f/1.4 lens, it will give you an idea of what I’m talking about: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1RXSUyPTFXk
With the kit lens I would shoot at an ISO of 400 or higher while using an aperture of f/4, depending on the amount of light available. This is really just a starting point for shooting video indoors.
- Moose
will this lens: Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 USM Lens
fit my t2i without the need of an adapter, i’ve gotten mixed answers.
my main concern is shooting low light video. would the Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 be just as good or what would you reccommend,Thanks.
Whitney,
The Canon EF 50mm f/1.4 will attach directly to your T2i, without the need of an adapter.
If you’re main concern is shooting low light video, then you’re on the right track. The only problem with the 50mm lens is that it’s actually 80mm when attached to the T2i. This is because of the focal length multiplier, which is 1.6x on the T2i. So any lens you attach, you’ll have to multiply the focal length by 1.6. 50mm is said to be the closest focal length to the human eye, so in order to shoot at 50mm on the T2i, you’ll need the Canon 35mm f/2 lens. If you’re shooting video indoors with the 50mm lens, you’ll find out real quick that it won’t be wide enough for you. In my opinion, I would experiment with the kit lens first as it will allow you to shoot around 28mm at f/3.5, with the added benefit of image stabilization.
- Moose
Hi Moose,
I have had my T2i for roughly a month and your site has become invaluable to me. I am a beginner and have followed your recommendations included here on your blog. I have to say, I am very pleased with the progress I’ve made following your advice.
I do have a question for you. My boyfriend is a custom home builder and I’m am attempting to build a website for him. He has absolutely no pictures of the beautiful work he has done. What would be a the best lens for shooting real estate photos? A wide angle?
Amanda,
Thanks for the kind words, glad to have you apart of the T2i community of beginner photographers!
To answer your question, a wide-angle lens would give you the ability to capture some great interiors of your boyfriends work. Here’s the catch, wide-angle lenses are very expensive. When you see a lens listed as 18-55mm, it is actually 28-88mm on your T2i. Without going into a lengthly explanation, most DSLR’s have a crop factor. For the T2i, the crop factor is 1.6x. So any lens you attach to your T2i, you’ll need to multiply the focal length by 1.6. This is great for those who want telephoto reach and bad for those like you who need wide-angle capabilities.
To give you an idea, the Canon 10-22mm lens will give you an effective focal length of 16-35mm on the T2i. This is a fantastic lens for capturing an entire room, however, this lens will cost you almost $770. You can find third party lenses that cover the same zoom range for about $600, but again still very pricey.
Your next option is to use the kit lens and capture a panoramic shot. The best way to do this with the T2i is to tilt it vertically so you can capture a “taller” panoramic shot. Place the T2i on a tripod and begin taking photos from left to right or right to left. Included with the T2i is the Canon PhotoStitch 3.1 software, which is excellent for piecing photos together.
Now, let me give you another little tip that most “Expert” DSLR photographers would cringe at me for even mentioning…buy a compact camera!
There are several compact cameras that will give you respectable wide-angle capabilities at a fraction of the cost when comparing it to a wide-angle lens. The other nice benefit, is most of these compact cameras are small enough for you to use as an everyday camera that can stay with you at all times in your purse or pocket.
Here are some compact cameras that start out at 24mm…
Canon PowerShot SD3500IS
Samsung HZ30W
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-WX1
Here are some compact cameras that start out at 25mm…
Panasonic Lumix DMC-ZS1
Sony Cyber-shot DSC-H55
If you go this route…then mount your compact camera to a tripod and disable the flash. Set your ISO to 100 for the cleanest results. You should also enable the self-timer which will allow you to get your hands off the camera as it counts down to take the picture. This will eliminate any chance of camera shake or blurry photos.
In my opinion…if you don’t have the budget for a wide-angle lens, I would start with your kit lens and try capturing a panoramic shot. If that doesn’t work for you, then I would consider one of the above mentioned compact cameras and a good sturdy tripod. Best of luck with your decision!
- Moose
Hey Moose,
I’ve recently purchased the T2i Kit from Costco. My total came out to be $1495.00 the price is including CA Tax.
The kit consists of:
Canon T2i Body
Canon EFS 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
Canon EF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM
Canon 200 DG Gadget Bag.
4gb SDHC class 6 card.
mini-hdmi cable.
I wanted to know if this kit was reasonable in price? Could I have gotten it for cheaper? And is the 70-300mm Lens any good? I calculated around $500+ for the 70-300mm lens. I was thinking maybe I should return the camera and purchase the camera from B&H and purchase the lens you recommended.
Danny,
According to my calculations, if you were to purchase that very same setup on Amazon it would cost you $1465. So were looking at a difference of $30. The nice thing about Costco is that they have a very long return policy (90 days), so if anything goes wrong in that timespan you’ll be covered.
Canon T2i Kit: $850
70-300mm IS lens: $550
Canon 200 DG bag: $50
4GB Class 6 SDHC card: $10
HDMI cable: $5
Total: $1465 on Amazon
The 70-300mm IS lens is a wonderful telephoto lens. You basically have the ability to shoot from 28mm to 480mm using the kit and telephoto lens combo that you purchased. If it was up to me, I would pay an extra $30 for the 90 day return policy…so all in all I think you got a great deal going through Costco.
- Moose
Thank you Moose for your response. Another question, I can purchase a Tamron 70 – 200mm f/2.8 DI LD (IF) Macro, Fast AF Telephoto Zoom for cheaper, what are thoughts on this?
Thanks so much
Laurel,
If you can find the Tamron 70-200mm AF f/2.8 Di LD IF Macro lens cheaper than the Canon 70-200mm EF f/4L USM then by all means, I would jump on it. The Tamron 70-200mm is an excellent lens that usually retails for around $730, while the Canon 70-200mm f/4 (no image stabilizer) usually retails for about $590.
- Moose
Hi Moose, what zoom lens would you recommend to shoot mostly lacrosse games from the stands. These games range from dim light to bright direct sunlight and night games under artificial lights. I only want to buy one zoom elns.
THanks so much
Laurel
Laurel,
I would consider purchasing the Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L USM Zoom lens. It’s a bit pricey and larger than your budget zooms, but will give you the ability to shoot full telephoto at f/4.
The lower the f-number, the faster your shutter speed. So if you are comparing two zoom lenses, one that has a minimum f-number of f/4 and another at f/5.6 at full telephoto, the lens that can shoot at f/4 will give you a faster shutter speed. Faster shutter speeds, will minimize “camera shake” and will help freeze your subject.
During the day you should have no problem reaching shutter speeds above 1/1000 at an ISO of 100. At night, you’ll need to make sure you’re shooting above 1/500 to freeze the action. In order to do this, you may have to bump your ISO up to 400 or even 800. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Hi Moose,
Can you advise which lens are must haves? I’m a beginner and don’t know which lens I need to buy as well as which one you would recommend? Thanks.
Hey Kelly,
As a beginner, I think it’s important to have the right zoom range in order to capture all types of shots. As you grow, you’ll begin to learn which type of photography you like best and can upgrade to a lens that is best suited for that type of photography. If you’re on a budget, I would recommend the
Tamron AF 18-270mm lens. This lens will give you an effective zoom range of 28mm to 432mm on the Canon T2i, which is more than enough to capture everything from wide-angle to telephoto. It’s also capable of macro (close-up) photography. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Phase detection AF requires aperture f/5.6 or larger to work. I noticed some non-Canon lens have max. aperture f/6.3 at telephoto end.
Does it mean phase detection AF doesn’t work at f/6.3? Or it works but with less successful rate?
Hey Benny,
I wasn’t aware of any aperture requirements for phase detection AF to work. Phase detection auto-focus is the default auto-focus mode on the T2i and can be used at any aperture. Contrast detection auto-focus can be enabled when using Live View mode. Contrast detection is great for shooting still life or portraits when auto-focus accuracy is more important than speed. CambridgeInColour.com has a great explanation between the two auto-focus methods, click here to read it.
- Moose
Any advice on filters and hoods?
Thank you
Hey John,
Great question…I probably should add another section to this post with some advice on this subject.
To answer your question, the only filter I regularly use is a Circular Polarizer. A circular polarizing filter will allow you to capture stunning colors, especially a deeper blue hue in the sky which will really enhance your outdoor photos. Here’s a link to some examples: flickr gallery
On occasion, I’ll use a Neutral Density filter which gives you the ability to capture movement of waterfalls, streams and the ocean by minimizing the light that enters the camera. Here’s a link to some examples: flickr gallery
Make sure that you get the right size filters for your lens. The T2i kit lens has a 58mm lens thread, so you would want to buy filters that match that size.
As for lens hoods, I never use them. If I run into a situation where I’m getting some lens flare from the sun or another light source, I’ll just use my hand to shade the lens. It works just as good in my opinion, plus it’s free :)
- Moose
Recently purchased a Tamron 18-270mm f/3.5-6.3 Di-II VC LD Asph. AF Macro Lens. I use it as my walk-around / everything lens right now. Works great so far on everything from kids sports to macros of spring flowers and the images are amazing. For less than 600 bucks it replaced my 18-55 kit lens and older (non-is) 70-300. It’s nice having the range and not changing lens all the time.
Hey Corey,
Thanks for your tip! I really think the Tamron 18-270mm is one of the best “all-in-one” lenses on the market. It’s great for those who don’t want to hassle carrying around 2 or even 3 lenses to cover the same exact zoom range. Thanks for stopping by!
- Moose