How to Take Great Portraits with the Canon T2i
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With just a couple tweaks to the Canon Rebel T2i and the right lens, beginners can turn ordinary people shots into amazing portraits…portraits that make family and friends say “Wow!”
- Quickly setup the T2i for portraits
- How to get a blurred background
- Basic portrait photography tips
- Best portrait lenses for the Canon T2i
How to quickly setup the T2i for portraits
Portrait Mode on the Canon Rebel T2i
The easiest way to start taking portraits with the T2i is to enable portrait mode. You can activate portrait mode by rotating the mode dial to the portrait icon.
In this mode the Rebel T2i will automatically select the lowest available aperture f-number. You might be thinking to yourself, “Ok Moose, so what does that mean?”
Well without getting into a lengthy discussion about aperture, the basic idea is that the lower f-numbers will isolate your subject and create a wonderful blurred background effect.
A higher aperture f-number will put everything into focus, including your subject and their surroundings.
Here’s a quick tip while shooting in Portrait Mode: If you hold down the shutter button, the T2i will automatically enable burst mode (also called continuous mode). This will allow you to snap off a series of photos at 3.7 shots per second. The cool thing about this mode is that you can capture natural expressions and spontaneous moments before and after your subject looks towards you. You’ll be surprised at the amount of photos that turn out to be “keepers”. Some of the best portraits are captured when the subject has no idea you’re taking the picture. Try it out!
Portrait Mode Tips for the T2i
- Create some distance between your subject and the background. This distance will help put your subject into focus, while the background is blurred.
- Use a telephoto lens and zoom all the way into your subject. This will create a very shallow depth of field. Depth of field is basically the range at which your subject is in focus. So with a shallow depth of field, things like hair and ears start to appear slightly out of focus which is great for putting the focus on the eyes or a smile. Check out my list of recommended portrait lenses for the Canon T2i.
- When focusing on your subject, half press the shutter button and focus on their face or eyes. Once the autofocus point flashes red, you’re ready to take the portrait.
Shooting Portraits at Night with the T2i
Have you ever taken portraits at night where your subject is blasted by the on-board flash and the background is completely black? In night portrait mode, the Canon Rebel T2i exposes the background and your subject to give a more natural looking portrait in low light situations.
You can enable the night portrait mode by rotating the mode dial to the icon with the little person next to a star.
I highly recommend using a tripod (like this one) while in night portrait mode with the T2i. The reason for this is to reduce “camera shake” or blurriness due to camera movement. Night portrait mode requires longer shutter speeds which can make it very hard to keep the camera still.
If you’re planning on purchasing a tripod I recommend you start with the Dolica 62-inch Proline Tripod. This is a great starter tripod for beginners. It’s cheap, lightweight and portable…plus the build quality is outstanding.
Night Portrait Mode Tips for the T2i
- Use a tripod to reduce “camera shake”.
- Try stay away from using the on-board flash to create more natural looking photos in low light situations.
- If you’re using flash, keep your subject within 5 to 10 feet of the Rebel T2i so they are well lit.
- When focusing on your subject, half press the shutter button and focus on their face or eyes. Once the autofocus point flashes red, you’re ready to take the portrait.
- Make sure your subject remains very still, even after the flash has fired to reduce blurriness.
Most pro photographers would shoot me, and I don’t mean with a camera, for recommending the portrait modes on the Rebel T2i versus setting up the camera manually. These modes are actually quite useful in everyday life and can help you to quickly capture those once in a lifetime moments.
For those of you who want to learn more about portrait photography using the advanced shooting modes on the T2i, stay tuned…in the coming weeks I’ll be creating a guide about the Aperture and Shutter Priority modes which will shed some light on everything from portraits to sports photography.
How do you blur the background behind your subject?
In order to blur the background behind your subject, you will need to do three things…
- Create some distance between your subject and their surroundings – You can create distance between your subject and their background by just asking them to walk towards the camera.
- Zoom all the way into your subject – Depth of field will become more narrow, giving you a more pronounced blur effect surrounding your subject. You’ll also benefit from lens compression, which will enhance the facial features of your subject and make them look more pleasing.
- Use a telephoto lens with a very low aperture f-number – By using a telephoto lens with a low aperture f-number, somewhere around f/1.8 to f/2.8, you’ll be able to isolate your subject from their surroundings. With the focus locked on their face, anything slightly behind them or in front of them will be out of focus…this is also called a shallow depth of field. Check out my recommended portrait lenses for the T2i.
Basic Portrait Photography Tips for the T2i
Here are some very simple portrait photography tips to remember when shooting with your Canon T2i…
Don’t leave to much room above the head
. When framing your shot don’t leave too much space around your portrait. In fact, try zooming all the way in and cutting off the very top of the portrait.
Shoot portraits vertically
Rotate the T2i so that the frame is vertical with your subject. You can also try angling the T2i just slightly to give a more dynamic look to your photos. You might try adding the T2i battery grip to help with shooting vertically. It really helps you stabilize the camera and is also great for those who have larger hands.
Backlit portraits
Instead of making your subjects stare into the sun, just put the sun to their backs and activate the on-board flash. The flash will lightly illuminate their faces, giving you a more natural looking photo without all of the squinting and harsh shadows.
Use window light
Window light is often used by pro photographers to capture beautiful, natural looking portraits.
Shoot side profiles horizontally
Create some space in front of the profile, you don’t want your portrait staring at the edge of the picture, you want them looking into it.
Best Canon Rebel T2i Lenses for Portrait Photography
The Canon EF 85mm f/1.8 USM is one of the best “portrait” lenses you can buy.
Many pro photographers use this lens for portrait photography. It renders some of the smoothest looking “bokeh” you’ll ever see. Bokeh is a fancy word for the blurry goodness that occurs in front and behind your subject. This lens is also great for sports. You can shoot at very high shutter speeds, both outdoors and indoors, which is great for “freezing” the action. Just in case you were wondering, the 85mm f/1.8 is one of my favorite lenses of all-time. Here’s a sampling of portraits taken with the Canon 85mm f/1.8: flickr gallery
The Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 II is a great starter lens for those wanting to experiment with portrait photography.
For around $100 bucks, this lens is capable of taking some amazing portraits. When you shoot at f/1.8 this lens captures those wonderful blurred backgrounds behind your subject. The only negative is that this lens is not very sharp at f/1.8. This is actually a good thing for portrait photography. A softer portrait hides blemishes and gives the image a very natural look. Here’s a sampling of portraits taken with the Canon 50mm f/1.8: flickr gallery
I hope you enjoyed this T2i tip-torial…happy shooting!
Great information, I just got this camera and this will definitely help me get started :D
I am in LOVE with your site. You have some GREAT information. I am still learning about my Canon t2i and this website is so helpful. It’s now in my favorites and can’t wait until I get more time this week to read more!! Great job and thank you!!!
Amazing website, I was having some troubles but after reading your advice and tips and applying them I am seeing far better results than I could have hoped for. Keep up the great work.
Cheers,
Garrett
Hi Moose,
Thanks for all the tips you are providing.
Is there a way to blur the background using 18-55mm lens that came with my T2i. Basically, I wish to take a picture similar to the first picture taken by ‘Fishnoxygen’ in the section”How do you blur the background behind your subject using the Rebel T2i?”
I cannot afford for any other lenses at this moment but I was wondering if there are any settings on my T2i with 18-55mm that can make this happen.
Could you please let me know
thank you in advance
Lucky
Howdy Lucky,
Yes, position your subject as far as possible from objects behind them and zoom all the way to full telephoto (55mm). Enable aperture priority mode (Av) and select the lowest available f/number (f/5.6) using the small command dial. Happy shooting!
- Moose
This may be a dumb question but why would I want an 85mm for portraits versus the 50mm? So I can be further away from my subject?
Howdy Michael,
Great question…most people choose the 85mm f/1.8 for it’s sharper lens and smoother looking bokeh (background blur). However, the 85mm focal length is a bit too long for indoor shots unless you’re shooting in large rooms. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi Moose !
Thanks for the great info ! Great site with breaking things down to plain english for us casual/the family photog ! Been reading for several hours now and even made some note cards to keep in my camera bag to quickly refresh and refer back to .
Bought a T2i last week , upgrading from point and shoots . Not a professional ,just wanted more from my shots of my girls ,pets,family and the NH life ! Lots to learn its true ,feeling a bit overwhelmed at times but I am pressing on and learning !
My question is , what are some helpful tips/tricks/settings in taking pictures of the full moon, stars and sunrises and sunsets ? I have the 18-135 and 50mm 1.8 lenses.
Thanks in advance , keep up the good work !
Howdy Amber,
There’s definitely a lot to digest in the beginning. The good news is that you’re going about it in the right way. Note cards can be very helpful when out in the field, so kudos!
Full moon
- Tripod
- ISO set to 100
- Aperture priority (Av)
- Aperture set to f/11
- Enable spot metering and aim center point at the moon to expose it correctly
- Enable self-timer
- Press the shutter and take your hands of the camera to ensure sharp results
Stars
- Same setup as moon shots
- Focus on the moon and then set your lens to manual focus (MF)
- Recompose and shoot away
Sunrises and Sunsets
- Tripod would allow you to shoot at an ISO of 100 (cleaner looking images)
- ISO set to 100 (with tripod) or Auto (without tripod)
- Aperture priority (Av)
- Aperture set to f/11
- Enable Evaluative metering
- Compose the sky first and press AE lock (star icon near thumb rest) to meter the sky
- Place the horizon either in the top third or bottom third of the image
- Focus and snap away
Happy shooting!
- Moose
I tried your recommendations above for a beautiful sunset at Donner Lake. The picture is stunning, and the colors are perfect. Thanks for the advice (which I could not find on the Canon website)! Also, I have purchased both books and the tripod you recommended and have learned and am learning quite a bit. . . . thank you!
Hi Moose,
I’d first like to say that I appreciate your site so much…I’ve learned quite a bit in a short amount of time, thank you!
I’ve had my T2i for a few months now and love it! I’ve been taking pictures of my children and events here and there so far just for fun but I’m ready to explore a bit more. I am preparing for a couple’s outdoor shoot with a background that includes downtown buildings. I’m trying to get the most out of my 18-55mm IS lens kit (before I purchase a new lens) and I have some ideas but I would like to know if you have any suggestions of settings to use to capture two people including the “downtown” background. The background does not have to be in full focus but i would like it to be obvious of what it is.
Also, if you don’t think I can accomplish anything memorable at this shoot with this lens, which lens would you recommend?
Thank you and I look forward to reading more from you!
Howdy Stephanie,
Thanks for all the kind words! :)
The 18-55mm kits lens is more than capable for the types of shots you’re after.
The key will be controlling depth of field (area in focus). You can control the depth of field with aperture priority mode (Av). Lower f/numbers will shorten the depth of field (small area in focus – great for portraits), while higher f/numbers will lengthen it (large area in focus – great for landscapes).
Maximum f/numbers are determined by the lens. With the 18-55mm lens you can shoot at f/3.5 or higher at wide-angle (18mm) and f/5.6 or higher at telephoto (55mm). I would take a couple test shots of your couple and adjust the aperture until you’re happy with the background blur. Start with the lowest available f/number at the given focal length and work your way up to a higher f/number.
The optimum focal range for portraits (individuals and couples) is 50mm to 120mm. The T2i has a crop factor of 1.6x, which means your 18-55mm lens is effectively 28-88mm. So in order to fall inside the ideal portrait zoom range, you’ll want to shoot between 35mm and 55mm with your kit lens.
As for compositional tips, a simple tilt of the T2i can make your shots go from ordinary to eye popping. Try shooting at different angles and heights (above and below your subjects).
Lastly, run some of the images through a post processing program like Picasa and convert them to black and white. Street photography lends itself well to black and white compositions. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thank you so much, Moose!!
I am very excited to try these techniques….you’re awesome!
Moose your site is so interesting and i love reading your advice and articles.. just a quick questions i got a new T2i w/ lens kit and i’m trying to buy some accessories what type of filter lens do you prefer for my lenses? lenses are 18-55 & 70-300. Thanks
Howdy Jan,
Thanks for the kind words! Both lenses can accept 58mm filters. Check out my “UV filter advice” post for more info and recommendations. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Moose,
Love this blog!
Last night I took my T2i to my sons dance. Because it was at night I switched from my zoom to my 85/1.8 knowing that the conditions would be very low light. I tried to take pics in the manual setting with the aperture at 1.8 and dialed the shutter to get the right exposure. The results were far from stellar. There was a yellowish tint and blur from the slow shutter/hand shake. I then took auto shots in portrait mode and with the flash the images were quite good( no surprise).
So I went back to manual and pushed the flash button, but I then realized I didn’t know how to meter the image with the flash in manual. I went back to my books including the T2 for dummies and there is no mention of how to choose shutter and aperture if you are using a flash.
Other than using only auto settings with the flash, do you have any suggestions?
thanks
Al,
Using flash effectively in a variety of shooting situations, requires a great deal of practice to get right. The Strobist blog is an excellent resource and one I highly recommend if you’re into flash photography.
Using the built-in flash, you’re going to get harsh light. There are some flash diffusers out there that will soften the light (like the Gary Fong pop up flash diffuser, which can improve the look of skin tones, however, an external flash like the 270EX will give you more power and the ability to bounce light off a ceiling for more natural looking light.
If most of your indoor shots are in large rooms, then you might want to look at the 430EX II which has even more power and a faster recycling time than the 270EX. Both external flashes work hand in hand with the T2i to produce accurate exposures, without having to do things manually. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Very informative website! I just bought the T2i and have been trying to take portrait pictures with the kit lens / EF 18-55 mm, using the portrait mode. The pictures aren’t good. I’m unable to get the blurred background effect. What would you suggest to get the blurred background effect? Is it the lens? would the EF 55 – 250 mm kit lens help?
Hina,
The blurred background effect is achieved with shallow depth of field. You can reduce the depth of field by using a bright lens with a low aperture f/number (f/2.8 or below) or by zooming to telephoto. Generally speaking, it’s better to use a bright lens than using full telephoto due to the fact that you can get faster shutter speeds at lower ISO’s. Fast shutter speeds reduce camera shake and subject blur. Lower ISO’s give you cleaner looking images with more detail.
You can try zooming to 55mm on your kit lens and taking a couple test shots, however, f/5.6 is the lowest aperture you can use at full telephoto. My advice is to get the 50mm f/1.8 II lens, which can be purchased for around $100 bucks. This lens will allow you to shoot at f/1.8 which will help isolate your subject against a blurry background.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
hey moose!! i just got may 1st D-SLR(t2i) and i purchased a 50mm f1.4 lens coz i love macro and portrait photos. I’m also planning to buy a macro extension tube. My problem now is I don’t have a zoom lens which I can use for soccer game of my son and to take picture of him whenever there’s activity in his school coz we’re not allowed to come closer to the stage. My wife also love to pose on a wanting to get the view of sorrounding (like Disneyland). Could you help me choosing a lens that I can use for sport, long range and portrait at the budget of $700 or less. And if my budget gets better, whats the lens to get those three purpose in one single lens. thank u and more power!! BTW, I could also affrord to buy extender for extra long range. coz I love sharp photos, i love to emphasize the colors.. help me plsss!! thank you!!
Bongkolan,
Since this is your first DSLR, I highly recommend starting with the Tamron 18-270mm. This lens will allow you to shoot everything from wide-angle to telephoto all with one lens. It comes equipped with image stabilization and is surprisingly sharp considering the zoom range it covers.
Your 50mm f/1.4 is a fantastic portrait lens, so I’d use it anytime your taking family photos.
For more info on sport lenses, check out this post. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thanks for the site, good info. I have the T2i and have started taken portraits. I bought the Canon 50mm 1.8 (nice budget lens) and I have taken some nice shots with it. However, I want a budget zoom lens for portraits for situations where I don’t want to be too physically close to the subject(s) and to cut down on sneaker zoom with a prime lens. I’m not too concerned with bokeh because I primarily want to do Chroma-keying anyway or a fixed background. What’s your thoughts on the following lens for what I described?
Canon EF-S 18-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS
Thanks,
Stephen
Stephen,
The ‘ideal’ portrait zoom range is between 50mm and 120mm. When taking portraits below 50mm, features such as noses appear larger than they actually are. When shooting beyond 120mm, you’ll encounter ‘flatter’ looking faces. Having said that, the 18-135mm lens will cover the ideal portrait zoom range. The 18-135mm is a good lens, with decent sharpness throughout the zoom range. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thanks for the awesome tips and great info on the t2i. So far I’ve read all of your tips and tricks. Are you going to do any write ups for manual and shutter priority modes? I made the rookie mistake of renting a L lense for my trip to Vegas and now have a 24-70L, my 85 f1.8 got here yesterday and I’m loving it so far. Keep up the great work!!
Thomas,
Yes, I do plan on doing some tutorials on Manual and Shutter priority and when to use them…just been busy with my day to day photography business. Those L lenses are very addicting, I can vouch for that. :)
You’ll love the 85mm f/1.8, it’s such a great portrait lens. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thanks for the great tips on taking portrait shots. I am looking for a on line class in using my camera in manual mode. Any suggestions of where I can find one?
Thanks,
Diane,
I highly recommend the online training materials over at Kelbytraining.com. The videos and online resources they provide are all taught by industry leading photographers and authors.
- Moose
Moose,
I have had my t2i for about 6 months now. Its my first DSLR – and I feel I am learning more all the time, and developing my skills.
I took your advice and purchased the 50mm 1.8 “nifty fifty”. WOW – the performance of a “simple” bright prime is awesome compared with my consumer zoom (15-85) which is nice outside – but quite slow.
If I wanted to take a step up and purchase another prime – what would you suggest ? The 85mm 1.8 on my camera is 136 – quite long, no?
Daniel,
Sorry for the delayed reply…it really depends on the types of subjects you’re shooting. When shooting at f/1.8, the 85mm is significantly sharper than the 50mm. That’s why its considered one of the best portrait lenses on the market. As for other recommended prime’s, you might take a look at the 35mm f/2. This would give you an effective focal length of 56mm which is closest to the field of view captured by the human eye. Many famous photographers have used the 50mm focal length to produce fantastic street shots. The effective 56mm focal length would also make shooting indoors (in small rooms) that much easier.
- Moose
Love your posts Moose, look forward to more (no that wasn’t a hint or anything haha!). I’ve had my T2i for about a month now and love it (especially its speed with little kids around) but still have a lot to learn! I was curious what your focal length recommendation would be for an outdoor family shot (2 adults 2 kids arranged around a tractor on a farm)– I have the 18-55mm kit lens. I usually take my portraits at 50mm and have noticed some funny distortions if I’m at 18mm and get very close to someone’s face. Should I set up the tripod close to our shot with the lens set at 18mm or should I back the tripod up and zoom to 55mm? Depending on the available natural light and position of the sun, I may be using the onboard flash to help dispell shadows. I’m just not sure what’s the best option for group shots. And I’ve also read I should have the aperture at f/4 or f/6 to make sure everyone is in focus– does that sound about right?
Thanks for the input!
Ellen,
Ha! Yeah, I’ve been a bit busy with some commercial photography work, but I hope to have more tips and tutorials after the holidays.
Sounds like you’re picking things up! You’re correct…when shooting portraits, you never want to shoot at full wide-angle as it will cause the subjects face to look a little bloated and features (like noses) will appear larger than they really are. Shooting at or near 55mm is the right approach.
Using the flash outdoors is a good idea. It will act as fill light and get rid of those nasty shadows.
Yes, for group shots you’ll want to shoot at f/4 to f/6. This will help put everyone in focus. Again, if you can…try zooming in as much as possible. This will help shorten the depth of field, giving you better looking backgrounds behind the group of people.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi Moose,
I just got my new canon t2i. I love the camera and still learning to take great shots. few questions regards to the lenses. which lenses would you prefer that are listed below.
1. canon ef 70-300mm is usm or Canon EF 70-200mm f/4L usm
2.canon 18-55mm is or canon 50mm
or what are your recommended lenses for this camera? I would like to have zoom lens and everyday lens that maybe that includes taking great portraits. thanks in advance
Hannah,
1. For slow moving wildlife and distance objects with not a lot of movement, I would go with the Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 image stabilized lens. For sports or fast moving subjects, I would go with the Canon 70-200mm f/4L.
2. For shots in and around the house, I’d go with the 18-55mm image stabilized lens. For portraits, macros and fast action…I’d go with the 50mm lens.
Unless you like to blow images up to full size and stare at tiny details, I would recommend the Tamron 18-270mm image stabilized lens and the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens. The Tamron will allow you to capture everything from wide-angle to telephoto, all with one lens. For moments when you want a shallow depth of field (blurry background), you can throw on the 50mm lens and capture some amazing portraits.
FYI…the Tamron currently has a $150 mail-in rebate which brings the price down considerably.
- Moose
Hi Moose,
I heard lots of mixed reviews about tamron 18-270mm. have you owned tamron lens before? Can i attach the Raynox DCR 250 to the 18-55mm lens or 70-300mm is usm lens? if i do would it take great macro pics as you attach them with 50mm f/1.8 lens?
thanks
Hannah,
Yes, my wife has the Tamron 18-270mm and loves it. Yes, the Raynox DCR-250 converter can attach to the 18-55mm and the 70-300mm lenses. The 50mm f/1.8 already has a very sort focusing distance, so adding the macro converter will get you even closer to your subject for greater magnification.
- Moose
What can I do to fix the color of skin tones in my portraits?
Howdy Mike,
In regards to correcting color casts and saturation levels with images captured by the T2i, you’ve got a couple options…
P.S. I removed a portion of your comment and edited your question. I tried responding to you via email, however, it appears the email address you included with your comment is not valid since I got a kickback. Feel free to email me anytime at moose@cameratips(dot)com – Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi Moose, I just got my new Canon T2i (and 18-55 mm lens)…its really hard for me to take good pictures of my kid, he moves so much. Any advice? Thanks!
Lorraine,
The easiest way to prevent blur is to rotate the mode dial to ‘Sports’ mode. This will speed up the shutter speed to help prevent subject blur. As you start learning some of the basics of photography, you can then migrate over to shutter priority mode (Tv) and select a shutter speed appropriate for the subject you’re shooting.
- Moose
Moose,
I know this is coming late, but I hope you are still answering questions. Reading this website has been so helpful…I just wish I would have read it before I bought my T2i.
I bought my T21 with the 18-55mm lens, an 8GB memory card, a case, and the 55-250mm lens for $1000. I thought it was a good deal, but now I am definitely wanting to get the 50mm lens and thinking maybe I should have just bought the camera without the kit lens.
I will mostly be using it to photograph my baby and family thus why I would need the 50mm lens. I also think I will use it for sporting events which I’m thinking the 55-250mm lens will be good for.
That being said, will I ever need the 18-55mm lens…or is that one basically going to go waste? I just really don’t know when to use that one at all…or if I ever will.
Thanks in advance for your guidance!
Kelly,
You made the right choice! The Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens is an excellent value at $100 bucks, allowing you to get fantastic portraits with silky smooth backgrounds. However, the focal length is a bit long for indoor shots.
When shooting indoors or in cramped spaces, you’ll find it hard to get a composition that you’re happy with. The reason is due to the T2i crop factor. The T2i has an image sensor that’s smaller than 35mm film. So in order to get the 35mm equivalent field of view, you need to multiply any lens that you attach to the T2i by 1.6. This turns the 50mm lens into an 80mm lens on the T2i. Shooting at 80mm indoors is a tough task. This is where the 18-55mm lens comes in handy.
My advice to you would be to use the lenses you currently own and when your budget allows, add the 50mm f/1.8 lens to your lineup.
Happy shooting!
- Moose
Im looking to take portraits/close-ups during christmas, in indoors candlelit enviroments. Are there any other tips you can give me than the ones above? I have the t2i with the 18-55mm kit lens.
Thomas,
With your kit lens, you’ll want to shoot closer to the telephoto end of the zoom range for portraits. This will give your portraits more pleasing features and will help create a shallower depth of field. Generally, when you shoot subjects towards the wide-angle end of the lens, features like noses, ears and eyes can look slightly enlarged. Portraits are best shot between 50mm to 120mm.
Another tip is to use an external flash for more natural looking light. The built-in flash blasts a direct light towards your subject, which makes portraits look flat. In order to get some depth, try adding a speedlite (like this one) and pointing it towards the ceiling. This will provide a soft illumination and better looking indoor party shots. As an added benefit, your subjects will appreciate not having to be momentarily blinded by the built-in flash. Happy holidays!
- Moose
whats your oppinion on trying this camera out on weddings?
Daniel,
The T2i is more than capable of handling wedding photography. The most important decision will be your choice of lenses.
- Moose
So fir weddings would you recomend the 85mm or the 50mm. Also I’m looking to get a memory card and I went to amazon and they have a transend 16g class 10. The reviews are mixed so what do you think about his card?
Daniel,
For wedding photography, you’ll need to start with two types of lenses. A good portrait lens and a good low light lens that can capture everything from wide-angle to mid-telephoto. Chances are, you will be switching between the two throughout the day.
The Canon 85mm f/1.8 is one of the best portrait lenses you can buy. It’s super sharp and captures jaw dropping silky smooth bokeh (blurry backgrounds).
While the 85mm is a fantastic low light lens, you won’t be able to take group shots or even portraits in cramped or tight spaces. In those situations, you’ll need to switch to a good wide-angle lens.
I really like the Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 lens. This lens will give you an effective zoom range of 27-80mm on the T2i. 27mm is plenty wide enough for group shots and portraits indoors. The constant f/2.8 aperture will allow you to get fast shutter speeds indoors at both ends of the zoom range.
Between the two lenses mentioned above, you’ll probably use the Tamron 17-50mm 90% of the day.
As for memory cards, I’ve been using the Transcend 16GB class 10 cards with my professional work and haven’t experienced any issues with performance.
- Moose
I’m just starting out in photography and was wondering what’s the best lens? What steps do you need to do to create that “blur” that so many professionals have. Also, could this camera be good enough for weddings? As of right now, I have the 18-55 and 55-250, but was thinking about purchasing the 70-300 USM? Whats your opinion?
Daniel,
The steps for creating the blurred background effect are found in the above article (here).
As for lenses, you already have a zoom range capable of capturing everything from wide-angle to telephoto. Really the only thing you’re missing is a good portrait or low light lens. The Canon 50mm f/1.8 is a fantastic value. For around $100 bucks, you’ll have a lens that will produce portraits with silky smooth backgrounds and at the same time it will increase your shutter speeds while keeping the ISO down in low light conditions.
The Canon 70-300mm f/4-5.6 IS USM is a great lens, however, you already own the 55-250mm lens. You’re only gaining 50mm at the long end of the zoom range. I personally don’t think it’s worth the added cost to your current lens line-up. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Thx for a nice post and blog. I have the 550D which in Europe is the same as the t2i. Which settings do you recommend for portrait pictures in the picture style menu? If I for example choose one of the User Def settings for darker images, and one for lighter/daylight images, how do I get colours like slightly rustic images and/or colours?
Any suggestions?
Thanks a lot in advance!
Hal,
The best way to “colorize” your photos is to do it in post-processing software. I realize that this creates another step, but it will allow you to get the exact effect you’re after. Google Picasa is good for beginners. It comes with a couple filters and colorizing options built-in. You can also try the online photo editor Picnik, which will allow you to upload your images and manipulate them to your liking.
- Moose
Thx a lot. I regularily use the Picasa software, so I’ll give it another look
Great post!
Hal,
No problem…happy shooting!
- Moose
Moose, thanks for the great website! I’ve been trying to get the same tips from the Canon website, and it’s so hard to navigate! I’ve recently been asked by few friends to take their families pictures for their holiday cards. I’ve gotten pretty comfortable taking landscape pictures but really haven’t done any portraits. I’m vaguely familiar with the manual settings on the camera. What would you suggest?
Paul,
You can try enabling aperture priority (Av) mode. For individual portraits, you’ll want to select the lowest aperture f/number available for your lens in order to create a shallow depth of field. For group shots, you’ll want to increase the aperture f/number to around f/4 to f/5.6 in order to get everyone into focus. What lens do you have?
- Moose
Right now all I have is a 55-250mm f/45.6 IS EF-S and a EF-S/18-55 IS
It should also be noted that the goups I have been asked to shoot, 2 groups will be outdoors in a wooded setting (each group being 3 or 4 persons) and one indoor shoot with 8-9 people.
Paul,
You’ll want to use your 55-250mm lens for the shots outdoors and the 18-55mm lens for the indoor group shot. The outdoor shot will be dependant on how much light is available. If you can, try to position the group so their backs are towards the sun. Then enable your built-in flash to provide some fill light. For the indoor shot, turn on as many lights as possible. If you’ve got a couple flood lights laying around, put in some daylight bulbs and aim them towards the ceiling or away from the group so you can get some nice soft light. Try two shots, one with flash and one without on a test subject before you get the whole group together. Again, you’ll want to shoot in aperture priority mode…probably around f/4 to f/5.6. For the indoor shot make sure you use a tripod (I recommend this one for beginners) and enable the self timer to get your hands off the camera. That should get you going in the right direction!
- Moose
Moose,
Thanks! I played around with a test subject last night and I really seem to be on the right track.
Glancing around some photography websites today, I came across a picture of a mother’s hands holding her new-borns feet. All you could see was her wrist-area, hands, and the baby’s feet. The rest of the fram was blacked out.
Is that something the camera can do, or is that done in post editing?
Paul,
Most of the time it’s done in image editing software. You can try dressing your subjects in all black, and enabling spot metering on the T2i. Spot metering will allow you to measure the subjects hands and feet, instead of the entire scene. This should “darken” the surrounding area to get the effect you’re after. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Moose,
Thanks for taking the time and making the effort to create this helpful website! Regarding your recommendation for tripods. Do you have a recommendation for a taller tripod, good for traveling? We are both tall people. Thanks again!
Joanie,
It’s sort of a catch 22…taller tripods are heavier which make it more burdensome to carry around for a day of travel. They’re also more expensive.
When I want to travel light, I bring my gorillapod or a monopod.
The Canon monopod 500 reaches a height of 64 inches…if you need a bit more you could go with the Giottos 71″ monopod and attach a Vanguard ball head which should get you closer to 74 inches.
Hope that helps…happy shooting!
- Moose
Great site, I’m a beginning and have had the T2i for a few months now. As far as getting professional-looking, studio-like portraits (of my two children), would the use of a speedlite flash (or some other flash) be helpful? I find that I just don’t have enough light in my home to get good indoor photos. My outdoor photos have been great. Or perhaps there’s something I could adjust on my camera? The photos look dark, not very sharp, and the color just seems off, or yellowish, but when I change it to Tungsten or Fluorescent on the white balance everything looks blue. Thanks for your help!
Katalina,
Great question…the T2i is very capable of getting fantastic low light shots without flash, but it depends on your subject and your lighting. Shooting kids in low light can be difficult. Not only do you have to “freeze” their movements, but lighting in a very dim room causes your T2i to use very high ISO’s in order to get a fast enough shutter speed.
An external speedlite like the Canon 270EX or the 430EX can greatly improve the look of your indoor photos. By bouncing the flash off your ceiling, you can provide natural looking light when indoors. The 270EX is smaller and more portable than the 430EX, but the 430EX is more powerful and can assist your T2i with low light focusing.
As for white balance, the tungsten and fluorescent settings are meant for when the flash is disabled. If you try using the flash with one of these white balance settings, you’ll get a color cast like the one you’ve been experiencing.
Lastly, I would take a look at my post on “Low light lenses for the Canon T2i.” Happy shooting!
- Moose
Hi Moose, I love your site, I have a few questions,
I have the T2i and I would like to start doing portraits in my recording studio space, do you have any recommendations for flash & lighting kits?
Brandon,
There are limitless options when it comes to studio lighting. The best advice I can give you is to start with a simple floodlight umbrella kit (like this one), 2 additional floodlights from your local improvement store and 3 super bright daylight bulbs. The umbrella kit will allow you to softly illuminate your subjects face, giving you much more natural looking portraits. The other additional floodlights can be positioned above and behind your subject for more creative lighting. By using “constant” light instead of strobes, you can instantly see how the light will affect the overall image. This is a great starting point for beginners. If you haven’t done so already, I also suggest that you mosey on over to the Strobist blog and soak up David’s knowledge on external lighting. Best of luck!
- Moose
Hello Moose,
Thanks for all the great information.
I have my newly purchased T2i, and am learning it. So much to know and it takes a great deal of practice, trial and error to get a decent shot. 20 shots in order to get 2 or 3 really great ones. Hopefully over time, I will have better results.
I read your suggestions on portrait lenses, and decided to go with the Canon 50mm f/1.8. I am wondering why when I look through the view finder I don’t see a crisp and sharp image, but an image that looks very grainy. I adjust the front of the lens, the image becomes clearer, but the picture is not sharp at all. Is it possible that the lens I purchased may have a problem? I almost regret not buying the 85mm instead, it would have cost alot less. Taking portraits is so important to me as I have a new granddaughter whom I would like 20 years from now to say, “you know grandma, I really love those pictures of me you took” back in the day.
thanks
Mamajune,
The image should look clear and crisp through the viewfinder. It’s possible that the AF/MF switch on your 50mm lens has been moved over to the Manual Focus option. Switch it back to AF and your T2i should be able to lock focus, giving you a wonderfully sharp photo.
Try enabling aperture priority mode (A) and selecting and aperture f/number of f/2.8. This will allow you to get sharp photos of your granddaughter against a silky smooth background. Best of luck!
- Moose
and what kind of filter should i get and what brand?
Caleb,
Check out my post on “UV filters for T2i lenses” …I would also consider getting a circular polarizing filter which will help you get beautiful deep blue skies and more cloud detail when shooting outdoors on bright sunny days. Just make sure you get the right size…the kit lens accepts 58mm filters.
- Moose
Hey Moose, I’m wanting to get the Canon Rebel t2i. It looks like a great camera! I haven’t bought anything yet still saving up. My budgets around 350 Right now I have a kodak point and shoot camera. Im trying to figure out what type of lens I want I don’t want/need a lot of zoom I want to take pictures of things around the house,family,trees,landscapes,portraits of people stuff like that, u want a lens that has good quility for cheap(isn’t that what evreyone wants haha) and no plastic stuff I want metal ? Sorry for so much info Thanks Caleb
Caleb,
In years past I would’ve told you to avoid kit lenses, however, Canon has recently updated their 18-55mm kit lens and it’s a wonderful value. It comes equipped with image stabilization and is very sharp from corner to corner. The 18-55mm zoom range is perfect for shots around the house. If you’re saving up for the T2i, I’d get the kit. You could also get a T2i body-only and couple it with a used 18-55mm IS lens which can be found on eBay or KEH for around $80 to $100 bucks. Hope that helps!
- Moose
So I should just get the 18-55mm okay sounds cool! Thanks Moose
Caleb,
That’s what I would do…best of luck!
- Moose
I recently purchased the 50mm lens for my T2i and really like it however I am having to get used to a few things. The autofocus is frustrating if you dont have a controlled environment so I turned it off. I discovered that this gave me the control but i was not nearly fast enough for some of the kids.. I also discovered that i needed the flash in some settings but i absolutely HATE the check the flash does when in autofocus. Is there anyway to disable this flutter of flashes before it actually takes the picture? I searched the manual but didnt see anything on it.. Or is this required for the AF to work correctly?
Cheree,
Autofocus – you may try enabling AI Servo mode which will allow you to continuously focus on your kids (page 67 in the T2i manual).
AF Assist beam – the “flashes” act as an autofocus assist beam to help illuminate the subject and giving you more accurate autofocus. If you wish to turn this off, you’ll have to disable it inside the custom functions menu (page 194 of the T2i manual).
Best of luck!
- Moose
Every so often while shooting in one of the creative modes, with kit lens, I get a “BUSY” message across the screen and am unable to take photos until I pull the camera away from my face for a few seconds… Missing great shots! Is this message due to the memory card I am using, the mode I am shooting in, or some malfunction in my camera body? I use a transcend HC 16G memory card. Thanks for the help!!!
Tiffany,
More than likely, the “busy” message is actually the built-in flash recycling (powering back up). You can dis-able the on-board flash or purchase an external flash which recycles at a much faster rate.
- Moose
Moose,
What is a good way to take portraits using the flash, but getting good skin color and a natural look? Flash often produces a “white” off color face and a dark background …
Daniel,
Sounds like you’re taking portraits at night or in very dark lighting. The easiest way to get better looking exposures at night would be to enable the ‘Night Portrait’ mode which will capture a natural looking background and better looking portrait. You can read more about it on page 54 of the Rebel T2i manual. In order to capture the ambient light around your subject, the T2i will select a slow shutter speed which means you’ll need a tripod and a subject that can remain very still until the exposure is complete. Best of luck! :)
- Moose
Hi Moose – my husband gave me a t2i for my birthday yesterday, so far I am excited but a little overwhelmed, thank you for this great forum! He bought a body + the EF-S 55-250mm f/4.0-5.6 IS Telephoto Zoom Lens , instead of the kit. I’m finding that this lens is great BUT frustrating with my primary subjects – my kids, around the house.
I am wondering if I should go for the 50mm f/1.8 as you so frequently suggest, or stick with the lens I have and get used to taking a few steps back…thoughts?
Hi Cindy,
The t2i is a “crop sensor” camera. This means the sensor is smaller then a 35mm film. Its about 22mm wide. This means in short – that a 55mm lens “sees” like a 90mm lens on a 35mm film camera.
Thats quite magnified for home shots.
Try another zoom – say the 15-85 mm – this will give you a 35m equivalent of 24-136mm much better for home and overall use.
Cindy,
Daniel is right…for the price, I would start with the Canon 18-55mm I.S. lens if you’re shooting indoors in tight spaces. The Canon 50mm f/1.8 is a fantastic lens for portraits, but when shooting in tight spaces it can be difficult to get your subject inside the frame.
The T2i has a “crop factor” of 1.6. So any lens that you attach to it will have to be multiplied by 1.6. So a 50mm lens X 1.6 equals 80mm.
I recommend that you read my post on “Canon T2i Low Light Lenses” …this will answer many of your questions and will give you some advice on which lenses to consider for shooting indoors. Welcome and happy shooting!
- Moose
Thank you both for the feedback, it is just what I was looking for.
Cindy
Cindy/Moose,
The 15-85 DOES cost about $750 – thats seemingly steep for a “slow” f3.5/5.6 lens. However after purchasing and using this lens for a few months now, I can say that for me it is AMAZING in IQ sharpness and color. The new baby pic on top is my grand daughter shot hand held at ISO 800 no flash. The IQ of the glass speaks for itself.
I wish you both well.
Daniel
Daniel,
Thanks for sharing your experience with the Canon 15-85mm…I have a few buddies who absolutely love that lens. You’re capturing some wonderful shots, keep up the great work!
- Moose
Cindy,
No problem, happy shooting! :)
- Moose
If anyone can help me with taking night landscape shots I would appreciate it. What mode does everyone use?? What lens???
Lindsay,
Here are a few tips for night landscape shots with the T2i…
1. Get a tripod (I like this one for the price)
2. Place your T2i on the tripod and frame your shot
3. Enable aperture priority and select an aperture above f/8…this will get the entire landscape in focus
4. Choose an ISO of 100
5. With an ISO of 100 and an aperture above f/8 in low light, you’ll have a very slow shutter speed…too slow for hand holding, which is why you’ll need a tripod
6. Get a wireless remote or enable the self timer in order to get your hands off the camera…even the slightest movement to your camera can cause blurriness in low light
7. Focus and capture the photo
The best lenses for landscape shots (night or day) is a wide-angle lens. Wide-angle lenses can be expensive, so I would start with the Tamron 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5 lens or the Tokina 12-24MM f/4 lens.
Hope that helps! :)
- Moose
Hello, I’m considering the EF 50mm f / 1.2L USM for my T2i, mostly for taking pics of my kids in natural, sometimes low, light. Would you consider this model “too much lens” for a beginner or for the T2i body?
Koeech,
Unless you’re a pixel peeper or a pro-photographer, I wouldn’t recommend this lens to you. For $1000 less you can get the fantastic Canon EF 50mm f1.4 USM lens which is capable of extremely sharp images and beautiful “bokeh” (blurred backgrounds). Just my 2 cents :)
- Moose
Thanks much for your recommendation, price is reasonable and looks like it’s hard to beat its bang-for-the-buck. I ordered one just now; am looking forward to playing with it this weekend!
Koeech,
You made the right decision….you’ll be happy with the lens, it’s great!
- Moose
Quick update – Got the 50mm f1.4 yesterday and I’m very happy with the results so far; the bokeh is especially sweet!
Thanks again for your recommendation and for the site in general. I wish I had found you earlier. Look forward to learning more about what the T2i is capable of!
Koeech,
Awesome news…thanks for the kind words! :)
- Moose
Love this site!!! Q: I have the t2i and have been using the 50mm/1.8f lens outdoors to capture portraiture… Using the portrait setting I have great success capturing what I want with a nice blurred background… But a good number of images that I would have wanted to use turned out all blurry with no focal point at all. What am I doing wrong or what settings should I be using to get the most from each image I snap? Thanks SO much!!
Tiffany, I too have the 50mm 1.8 and a t2i. Its tricky focusing the 50mm especially at large apertures 2.8 and smaller. You need to do a little experimenting and see if the auto focus is slightly front/back focusing.
In addition, there is no IS and since 50mm on a crop body = 80mm you should shoot at at least a shutter speed of 1/80 or 1/100.
The t2i lacks MF (micro focusing) adjustments to fine tune focus – a great pity.
You can use the “sensor focus” via live view – and often get a much improved auto focus!
Good Luck – the 50mm 1.8 is a great glass
Tiffany,
Daniel answered your question exactly right…thanks Daniel! :)
The only other thing I would add is…
1. The closer you are to your subject, the smaller the area of focus will be on the 50mm f/1.8 lens. Try backing up to get more of your subject in focus. You can always crop out the unwanted areas of the photo.
2. Try enabling the center autofocus point and pre-focus on the area that you want in focus…otherwise the T2i will focus on the area closest to the lens.
- Moose
Silly question… How do I enable the center focus on my T2i?
Tiffany,
You choose the center focus point by pressing the button that looks like a ‘+’ symbol located near the on/off switch. After pressing that button, then press the SET button and that will enable the center focus point. You can read more about it on page 68 of the Rebel T2i manual.
- Moose
Perfect, thank you! I’m going to try using this when photographing kids on the move, combined with faster shutter speed I should have sharper images using my 50mm/1.8
Tiffany,
No problem…happy shooting! :)
- Moose
Since this site is dedicated to the t2i – I wanted to share an my experience with lenses. I originally purchased a kit lens – 18-135 with the t2i. I then wished to “upgrade” and purchased the 17-55 f/2.8
Nice glass – but expensive, heavy, bulky and nose heavy on the light weight t2i, and I also experienced slight front focus issues.
I went back to vendor – and traded “down” to 15-85 mm new lens.
well! the 15-85 is absolutely awesome in IQ and overall optics.
Sure its a little slow – but the t2i takes awesome shots up to ISO 400 and great up to ISO 800 – that coupled with the IS gives plenty of room to compensate. I warmly recommend this lens to t2i owners – it takes nice portraits too! What is your comment on all this ?
Daniel,
Thanks for sharing your experiences with both lenses. The Canon 15-85mm is a fantastic lens with excellent sharpness. It’s one of Canon’s newest lenses to hit the market so it’s built with the latest digital imaging technology. The zoom range is fantastic for 90% of shooting situations that the average person will encounter. The biggest advantage with the 17-55mm f/2.8 lens is the ability to use faster shutter speeds with lower ISO’s in low light situations (sports, fast moving kids indoors, etc…).
Based on the price and zoom range, I would also go with the 15-85mm lens over the 17-55mm…good choice! :)
- Moose
- Moose
I wanted to share my experience / frustration. I purchased 85mm 1.8 to go with my t2i. I found that the auto focus was always slightly off… with f stops of 2.8 or less. It seems the t2i’s focus system is just not that accurate at wide apertures ? I also found this with 50mm 1.8. It “almost” focuses with slight front focus (in my case).
Can you comment on this ?
Daniel,
Getting your subject in focus with apertures around f/1.8 can be difficult, especially when you’re close to your subject. If you’re hand holding the camera at f/1.8, your body and hands are making very small movements. These small movements can actually put your focus point in front of or behind your intended subject. When you’re shooting a portrait or close-up, these small movements are magnified. Here are a few tips to fix this problem…
- Moose
Hi Moose,
Great site! So glad to have someone to turn to for advice. I have been using my t2i for 4 months now. I bought it to photograph my baby girl with hopes to have the most beautiful photographs. I also purchased the 50 mm 1.8 lens as well. I’m so sorry to say that I have been disappointed with most of my photos. They seem flat, the colours are dull, they have not captured good details and do not appear very sharp. I have tried using all of the preset metering mode as well as the manual, Av, Tv etc. On the LCD screen my photos appear gorgeous and vibrant, but when I download them they do not look that way at all. It seems that I have to retouch every single photo in DPP. I was really hoping to shoot excellent quality JPEGs right off the bat. As you can imagine I don’t have time to retouch my 1000′s of photos with a new born baby!! Really hoping you can offer some advice, I feel like I’m missing something and am so sorry to be disappointed with this camera. Thanks again
Bailey,
I can assure you it has nothing to do with the T2i or 50mm lens. Honestly, it comes down to your photography skill level. That’s not a knock on you, because we all have to start somewhere. It’s like riding a bike. If you just started learning how to ride a bike, a more expensive bike is not going to teach you any faster than a less expensive bike. You have to experiment and train yourself in order to master it.
The key with photographing your baby successfully is “light”. Most baby shots are taken indoors under incandescent lighting. Incandescent light can wreak havoc on digital cameras like the T2i. DSLR’s are preset with automatic white balance correction. While it does a pretty good job in most situations, incandescent lighting is one of the toughest to correct. To fix this you can test out the different white balance settings and see if that improves the color in your photos.
Next, if you’re using flash indoors I would turn it off and try to use natural light through a window. If you’re outside I would position the sun behind your baby and enable the flash which will act as fill light. This method allows your baby to have their eyes wide open instead of squinting towards the sun.
Lastly, I would start shooting in Aperture priority mode (A). Select an aperture around f/2.8 as this will allow you to get sharp focus while still maintaining a blurry background (also called bokeh).
Hope that helps!
- Moose
I am so happy I found u !!!!! This is great i love love my t2i and am still learning this camera. I have shot 3 wedding in the past with a 40d and am loving this way more!!! I really want to be able to take AMAZING pictures not just ok pictures and your really helping me !! Thank you!
Colleen,
I’m glad this site has been helpful to you…welcome to the T2i family!
- Moose
ok, so I got a T2i last week and I also picked up the 85 lens per your recomendation. People commended me for picking such a great lens. Well the deal is that I cant stand it so far. I have a new baby and the point of my DLSR purchase was to take pictures of her. I love the “bokeh” effect so I wanted this lens. My main gripe is the 3 foot distance. My house and rooms are too small to do this. Should I stick with this lens or should I get somehting else? I have about another $400 to spend. I just wnat a lens that will take good shots of my baby and where I can be close to her. I had a pro come out and the portraits she took with her camera looked great and she was right up next to us. I know she wasnt using a 85 but I dont know what she was using. Thanks for your help and you have a great site. I love it!!!
Erik,
Totally understand your situation…in your case I would grab the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens which can be found used for $70 or new for around $100 bucks. The focusing distance is 1.5 feet so it would allow you to get much closer to your baby while also giving you a wider field of view. I would still hang on to your 85mm, because as your baby grows up and starts running around the house you’ll find yourself switching back to the 85mm. Just my 2 cents :)
- Moose
Thanks Moose,
Do you think its worth the extra money to go for the 1.4 version?
Erik,
The Canon 50mm f/1.4 is slightly better than the 50mm f/1.8 in the following areas…
- Better construction
- Better Blur quality (Bokeh)
- Slightly Sharper
In regards to the sharpness…you may notice subtle differences in image quality when viewing images at 100%, but when viewed at a normal percentages the difference in sharpness is very small.
- Moose
Just got my T2i. Love it so far. Will start posting pics soon.
Damion,
Welcome to the T2i family…congrats!
- Moose
I will be getting a new T2i this week. We will be leaving Friday for vacation. Will I have what I need in the kit to start taking photos right away? Do you have a recomendation for a camera bag? What else will be necesary? I am so excited I can hardly stand it! I have only had point and shoot, but with my food blog I need to up my photograpy.
Jane,
If you haven’t done so already, take a look at my Canon T2i Bag Advice post as it goes through the different camera bag options available to you. The kit lens will serve you well in many different types of vacation shots. Great blog…your food looks delicious!
- Moose
I want to thank you for having this website. I just purchased this camera and feel a bit overwhelmed. Your site is wonderful and makes me feel less of a wimp. I decided to get this camera because my husband is being deployed to Iraq this friday for a year. We have a 6 year old that adores him. I wanted to take sucessive (monthly/weekly) pictures of her and have those pictures on our walls when he gets back. I will probably send them to him over email or facebook. For me it is important to be able to come to your site and post a question if I need. So thanks in advance — my questions will come.
Muriel,
Welcome to the T2i family! Your husbands service is appreciated! I’d be happy to help you out any way I can.
- Moose
I need to get my camera up and running to shoot moving objects. I have not been about to sit down and mess with my camera much at all pleas help. How can I get the camera to do video clearly and for longer them 5 seconds?? Please help
Jessica,
1) The easiest way to shoot moving objects is to enable Sports mode. Just rotate the mode dial to the “Running Man” and you’re good to go. There are more advanced techniques like using Shutter Priority mode, but in the beginning I would start with the pre-programmed Sports mode.
2) Make sure your memory card has enough space for recording HD video. You can reference my post on recommended memory card for the T2i for more information.
- Moose
Moose,
im loving this page! iv been searching the internet for just basic to the point instructions on some basic fundemental questions…and iv found em! keep the info coming…. even if its little tricks with the camera, its always nice to learn something new! Thanks!
Tina,
Thanks for the kind words! I’ve got more T2i tutorials and tips on the way….stay tuned!
- Moose
Hi, came across your website and am loving it. My husband just got me the cannonT2i yesterday and i have to tell you i am finding it overwhelming.Our best friends son is getting married in 2 weeks and my husband volunteered to take pictures because they cant really afford a photographer WHAAAT! no pressure right. He took some pictures today and they were blurry i am worried, i definately plan on taking a class but know i cannot learn in that time period. Do you have any suggestions on how to set the camera to get some simple shots (it is outside) right now the only lense i have is the one that came with it but was going to get the 55-250 sorry for the long drawn out message
Rosemary,
Yeah, no pressure is right! :)
Well, let me start by saying that it is possible to get a few fundamentals down by the time the wedding comes around. First and foremost, I would highly recommend purchasing the Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens and waiting on the 55-250mm lens. For around $100 you’ll have a wonderful lens that you can use the entire day of the wedding.
Next you’ll want to get out of Auto mode and rotate the dial to Aperture priority mode (Av). Once in Aperture priority mode, you’ll want to rotate the smaller command dial to select a f-number on the LCD screen. Lower f-numbers like f/1.8 will give you fast shutter speeds and beautiful blurred backgrounds behind your subject. Higher f-numbers like f/8 will put the entire scene into focus which is great for group shots. I would also recommend, adjusting the ISO (digital film speed) to Auto. This will ensure that the T2i can correctly expose the scene.
Now with your kit lens attached, you’ll be able to get a wider field of view than the 50mm lens. Use this lens for the group shots and use the 50mm lens for everything else.
Since the wedding is outside, I recommend turning the flash on. This may sound surprising, but the flash will act as fill light and will get rid of the nasty shadows that the sun creates. Just note that the on-board flash won’t be strong enough for group shots.
Hope that helps!
- Moose
Excellent site! Just found it, and just got a T2i a few days ago.
In this post you mention for a good portrait, zoom all the way in on the subject, but then you recommend fixed lenses (50mm, 85mm). So no zoom? Or zoom? I have the 17-55mm and the 10-22mm Canon lenses.
Howdy Tom,
Thanks for the kind words! To answer your question, portraits are best shot between 80mm and 150mm. Your 18-55mm kit lens is actually 28-88mm on the T2i because of the crop factor (55mm x 1.6 crop = 88mm). So by zooming all the way into your subject you would fall into that prime range for portraits. The biggest advantage with prime (fixed) lenses is they come equipped with a lower aperture f-number (like f/1.8) when compared to zoom lenses. A lower aperture f-number means that the lens is letting in more light which is great for controlling depth of field (blurred backgrounds behind your subject) and for shooting in low-light conditions without a tripod. As a side note, prime lenses are almost always sharper than zoom lenses. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Which lens would be best for shooting football game shots with the t2i? Its a smaller school so the stadium lighting is not what colleges or larger high schools can produce
Tiffany,
Having shot many Friday night high school football games over the years, I can tell you that it can be one of the most difficult sports to shoot. Your first priority is to “freeze” the action, so no matter what lens you attach to the T2i, you’ll need to be in Shutter Priority mode (Tv) with a shutter speed above 1/500 of a second. I would also enable AUTO ISO so that the T2i can properly expose the photo. As a beginner it’s too difficult to be adjusting the ISO during gametime.
If you’re shooting from the sidelines, I would look at the Canon 70-200mm f/4 EF lens. This lens will allow you to shoot full telephoto, which is 320mm when attached to the T2i, while obtaining a maximum aperture f-number of f/4. Most budget zooms will only allow you to use a maximum aperture f-number around f/5.6. This lens will allow much more light into your camera giving you the ability to shoot at lower ISO’s for cleaner “noise free” image, while still achieving high enough shutter speeds to freeze the action.
If you can’t afford the 70-200mm lens, then you next best lens would be the Canon 55-250mm EF-S f/4.0-5.6 IS lens. With this lens you’ll be forced to raise the ISO to 1600 or higher in order to get a shutter speed of at least 1/500 of a second, which basically means noisy images. The nice thing about this lens is that it will give you a reach of 400mm at full telephoto when attached to the T2i.
You can also reference my post on indoor sports photography with the T2i for more tips. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Hi Moose!
I tried an aperture of f/5.6 and the one outside face is slightly blurred…should I increase it?
Thanks so very much for your help!
Sam,
It sounds like the shutter speed is still too slow. Try lowering the aperture f-number to f/4. The lower the f-number the higher the shutter speed. You might also try bumping your ISO up to 200 or 400 as that will also give you a faster shutter speed at the expense of image noise. You’re getting there, keep it up! :)
- Moose
Thanks for your help Moose! BUT…now I need some tips to focus a family shot! How do I get sharp focus on everyone in a shot…
Sam,
Great question, I probably should have included a section for that. In order to get the entire family in focus, you’ll want to use Av (aperture priority) mode.
1. First switch the mode dial to Av
2. Then locate the aperture f-number on the back of the LCD (should look something like f/5.6)
3. Then rotate the little command dial just above the shutter button
4. If you rotate it to the right you’ll get a higher aperture f-number which is what we are after
5. I would shoot around f/4 to f/5.6 (this will keep your family in focus, while still giving a slight blur to your background)
Shooting outside is much easier. Position your family so that the sun is to their backs. Then enable the on-board flash (page 64 of the Rebel T2i manual) to illuminate their faces. The T2i will emit a very soft flash which will give you natural looking light. If you position the sun to their faces, you’ll get squinting eyes and lots of hard shadows.
For indoor situations, I highly suggest the use of a tripod and a long exposure versus hand holding the T2i and using the on-board flash which will produce unflattering shadows in low light situations. Just use the same aperture f-number, somewhere around f/4 to f/5.6 and position the T2i on a sturdy tripod (the Dolica 62-Inch Proline Tripod is a great starter tripod). I would also disable the on-board flash so that it does not fire. If you don’t have a remote, then I would enable the self-timer (page 71 of the T2i manual). When you press the shutter button, the T2i will count down and then take the shot which will allow you to get your hands off the camera to eliminate camera shake.
Hope that helps! If you have any specific questions, don’t hesitate to ask.
- Moose
Hi Moose!
How in the world do you capture clear portraits of toddlers that won’t sit still??? I have tried el servo and I can’t get sharp portraits…any suggestions??
Thanks!
Hey Same,
Toddlers can be very tricky to shoot. Not only do you have to “freeze” their movements, but you need to obtain accurate focus. In my experience, I’ve found that enabling Shutter priority mode and using AI Servo autofocus gives you the best results.
1. First rotate the mode dial to Tv (Shutter Priority Mode)
2. Then locate the shutter speed on the LCD screen (looks something like: 1/500)
3. Then rotate the little command dial (located behind the shutter button) to the right in order to achieve a higher shutter speed. I would start at 1/500 and if it’s not freezing the action, try going all the way up to 1/1000.
4. Enable Auto ISO (Page 62 of the T2i manual). This will allow you to go from outdoors to indoors while still maintaining accurate exposures.
5. Enable AI Servo autofocus (Page 67 of the T2i manual). When using this autofocus mode, make sure you half press the shutter button and keep it half pressed until you are ready to take the photo.
Lastly, you might also try enabling Continuous Mode (Page 70 of the T2i manual). This will allow you to take a series of photos in rapid succession ensuring you will get a few keepers as your little one is moving around. Hope that helps!
- Moose
Moose, thanks for the info. It is really helpful. Is there a quality difference between the Sigma lens and the Canon lens that substantiates the difference in price? As long as I’m making the investment…….
Hi Cindy,
“Experts” and pro photographers will always tell you to go with Canon branded lenses. Here’s my real world comparison…
Sigma 10-20mm lens:
- Better build quality
- Little bit sharper in the corners and edges of the frame (difference is very small)
- CHEAPER
Canon 10-22mm lens:
- Better zoom range (10-22mm vs 10-20mm)
- Little bit sharper in the middle of the frame (difference is very small)
- A brighter lens (f/3.5 vs f/4) allowing you to get slightly faster shutter speeds in low light conditions (Better for hand holding and minimizing camera shake or you could just use a tripod)
- The “Canon” brand makes resale easier if you ever plan on selling your equipment
Hope that helps!
- Moose
Recently bought a Canon Rebel T2i. Way more camera than I am experienced to use but having fun learning. We own resort properties and I am interested in a wide angle lens to capture indoor photos of cabins on the property. Any suggestions?
So glad I found this site. You have been extremely helpful.
Howdy Cindy,
Welcome to the T2i community, glad you’re enjoying the Rebel T2i! Now to answer your question…I’ve got good news and bad news. The bad news is that extreme wide-angle or super long telephoto lenses are very expensive, especially when purchasing Canon branded lenses. The good news is that you can purchase lenses through Tamron or Sigma at almost half the cost of a Canon branded lens.
The Sigma 10-20mm lens will give you a zoom range of 16 to 32mm on the Canon T2i. This is a very wide field of view. Having stayed in many cabins all across America, I know how tight and cramped they can be to take a decent wide-angle shot of the entire room. The Sigma 10-20mm will easily capture the type of photos you are after. The closest lens that Canon offers is the EF-S 10-22mm lens which is priced almost $250 more than the Sigma lens. You can see some examples of the Sigma lens here.
If you’re not willing to spend over $300, your next best bet is to use the T2i kit (18-55mm) lens and take a panoramic shot. The problem with this is that you’ll have to piece the images together using an image editing program.
Hope that helps!
- Moose
Thanks for the advice – I’ll definately try that out next time :)
Pete,
Let me know how it goes! :)
- Moose
Hi
I’ve just got my T2i (or 550D over in the UK), my first DSLR.
Any tips on taking portraits at evening events or functions? I was at a party the other night and I was using the 50mm 1.8 lens on the AV setting with manual focus (the disco lights really messed up the automatic focus!).
I did get a couple of really good portrait shots but a lot of them came out badly blured. I tried using the night mode but the flash was really just too bright and blew out the background.
Any pointers on what I could have done to get better photos?
Thanks
Pete
Hey Pete,
Shooting in a club/disco can be very challenging. At an aperture of f/1.8, the lens will exhibit a very shallow depth of field. By depth of field, I’m referring to the area at which the subject is in focus. So if your subject is moving (like at a party), they can easily get outside that shallow depth of field by the time you actually release the shutter.
To fix this, you need to raise the aperture f-number to somewhere around f/2.8. This will put more of your subject into focus, but at the same time it will lower your shutter speed. In order to raise your shutter speed, you’ll need to raise the ISO somewhere around 400 to 800 when indoors (maybe higher). Unfortunately the higher the ISO, the more image noise you’ll experience so try your best to keep that number down.
Another tip that may help is to manually set the focus point to the center position. This will allow you to focus on the eyes of your subject, instead of allowing the T2i to focus on the closest object which could be anything when people are dancing :)
I hope that helps!
- Moose
Awesome site…just wish I had come across it earlier. Just got the t2i in yesterday and it is my first dslr. I must admit, it was frustrating not being able to capture the shots I was going after but I’m excited to practice and learn! I prematurely bought a class 4 16gb sdhc card…sigh. I’ll have to try and switch for the class 6 transcend. I also bought the lens kit with both 18-55 and 55-250 for $950 at adorama primarily because it seemed like such a good deal. Now i’m thinking it might’ve been better to wait and invest in a lower f/ number for the telephoto lens. I’m really glad I took my friends advice to grab the 50mm f/1.8. I’m still waiting for it in the mail!
Moose, thanks for the info and I’m hoping to take you up on your offer to ask many questions as I dive into taking great photos.
Billy Joe, I’m also from Chicago and the cityscape just inspires me to capture the beauty of the city. I’m also looking to do some traveling this next year. Can’t wait! Thanks again.
-dk
DK,
I think you got a great deal! Both of those starter lenses will cover a zoom range that will enable you to take many different kinds of shots. Unless you plan on doing some serious sports photography, I wouldn’t worry too much about a telephoto lens with a low f-number in the beginning. I would just focus on having fun with your new T2i. As you grow, you can always throw a couple nickels into a piggy bank and upgrade your current lenses.
You’re friend gave you wonderful advice in regards to the 50mm f/1.8 lens. You’ll be amazed at how you can isolate subjects and create that wonderful blurred background effect, also known as bokeh. It will also enable you to shoot in low light conditions without the use of flash, giving you much more natural looking photos. Thanks for stopping by!
- Moose
P.S. Bring on the questions :)
Thank yo so much for your tips!!! I purchased the 50mm f1.8 to start and already see an improvement in the quality of the photos, especially portraits.
Hey Kelly,
Glad to hear the 50mm f/1.8 lens is serving you well. If you ever have any questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. Happy shooting!
- Moose
Great post. I learned a lot. I bought the T2i for two purposes: 1) Recording interesting characters and places in Chicago/my life, and 2) For taking pictures of vitamin bottles for an online company. Do you suggest that I treat the pictures of those vitamin bottles analogous to a portrait of a person? In other words, do you think I will be able to take good close-up pictures of them with the standard 18-55 lens or should I buy the 50mm 1.8f lens? Or another lens (keeping in mind that I don’t want to spend more than ~$200)?
By the way, I bought mine via J&R, which accepts the 5% Bing cashback and it may have also accepted my 4% cashback from Bank of America (money still pending, but people on chatboards suggest they were able to use both discounts). Just some buying tips for your readers. Thanks, Moose.
Billy Joe Mills,
Glad you stopped by! You’ve chosen an excellent camera for both subjects you’re intending to shoot. The kit lens is a great “walk-around” lens. It’s light and is equipped with enough wide-angle to get some wonderful shots of the city. As for taking photos of vitamin bottles, you’re exactly right…the 50mm and the 85mm lenses will isolate the subject whether it’s a bottle or a face.
If you’re budget is $200, then I would definitely get the 50mm f/1.8 lens. When you attach it to the T2i, rotate the mode dial to Aperture Priority mode (Av), and then rotate the small dial just behind the shutter button so that you have a f-number of f/2.8. Shooting at f/2.8 on the 50mm lens will give you the sharpest pictures, while still blurring the background. If you need any setup help just let me know.
- Moose
Moose…I just want to say that your website is very helpful. Please keep writing! I am anxiously awaiting my T2i, which will be my very first SLR camera. I have been shooting with and learning from my photographer friends, but I will now finally have my own and it’s great to learn from you!