Welcome to the Fuji HS10 forum for beginners! Share questions, answers and tips with other HS10 owners all across the world.
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So let’s talk about the Fuji HS10!
I have an HS 10 and can not find how to change the time between shots for the modes where a series of shots are taken like in motion removal or motion capture. Can you help me???
Hi Henry
After selecting either of those modes, rotate the command dial to choose the time interval. Also note that you have to set something other than L – large for your picture size.
Regards
PBked
Thank you. I see the total time in lower left. I was expecting a range of times from which to choose. Thanks again. This is a great service.
Hi all. Have recently bought a used HS10. Am pretty happy with it. I shoot alot of birds and find in bright sunshine quite alot of my shots have a fairly unnatural washed out look. Any advice on settings for bird photography? ( I am shooting in M mode and I adjust the speed accordingly. Havent messed with any of the in camera settings )
Thanks very much!!
Richard
Hi Richard
As you are shooting in M mode, I assume that you are no stranger to photography and therefore I will not attempt to suggest settings to you. As for your washed-out colours, have you tried the ‘chrome’ setting for film type. This setting will give you much more vivid colours. You could also enter the set-up menus and change the values for colour, saturation etc. and experiment until you like the results.
Hope this helps
Regards
PBked
Hi everyone!
I am very interested in Fujifilm’s lineup of “S” series cameras and was just about to buy one when I got the chance to consider a HS10. Now this particular camera is about one year old but the pop-up flash doesn’t work. (the owner is including a separate flash anyway). I was wondering if you know what can be done in terms of repairs for this problem and whether it’s worth considering an used HS10 instead of a brand new S2950 or similar model.
Any reply will be appreciated!
Thanks and regards,
Jay.
P.S. I have no clue on photography and the last camera I owned was a Sony DSC-W1 compact that I bought in 2005. It quit working recently and this made me to consider a new camera!
Hi Jay
I don’t know what it is involved in fixing the flash. However, the HS10 is old technology now and personally I wouldn’t waste my money. The S2950 has had good reviews, but, and I know this sounds like treason on this site, have you considered a Canon SX40. The pixel count is lower at 12 mpxls, but it takes fantastic photos, has a long reach zoom and an articulated screen. At £250 or less it is a bargain buy.
Regards
PBked
Thanks for replying, PBked! I managed to buy a gently used Fujifilm S3200 which was in my price range. I still drool over the HS10/20EXR/30EXRs and who knows, I might find one for cheap as the months go by!
Thanks and regards,
Jay.
Hi everyone, sorry if this sounds stupid but it’s really bugging me and I am rather a novice.
In Aperture Priority mode the range available is F3.2 – F8 and I can’t seem to get any higher or lower. Am I doing something wrong?
Also in Manual mode how do I set the aperture after I have set the shutter speed?………. having difficulty finding this in the manual.
Hi there
The aperture range of the HS10 is F2.8 – F11 at wide angle and F5.6 – F11 at telephoto. As you zoom from wide angle to telephoto the F number will increase until you reach F5.6. However, you should be able to achieve F11 anywhere in the range. Don’t forget though that ISO also plays its part. If you set your ISO too low then you may not be able to get to F11.
As for your second question, see page 32 of the manual.
Best regards
PBked
Thank you that was very helpful.
Hi, just wondering if you can tell me the best setting for the HS10 for concerts/shows etc. Went to a show last night and as I was upstairs away from the stage, so did not use the on camera flash. I tried several settings, auto, program and even manual, raised the ISO etc and was very disappointed with most of the results. Finally got some reasonable ones with the party” setting. Any help would be appreciated as i am only new to this great camera. Thanks
Colin,
I ‘m sure you’ve tried all the settings… but there simply is no ideal setting. Although the HS10 with the 24-720mm lens is a nice piece of equipment, don’t expect the same results as from “fixed f 2.8 zoom lenses” which generaly cost 3-5x our HS10.
Raising ISO (> 800) results in noisy pictures and lowering shuttertime (S-mode) in blury ones (even on tripod) because of moving persons/objects on stage. Zooming in on aperture mode (A-mode) will allways increase the f-number from 2.8 to 5.6. Less light means longer exposure time etc.
The famous exposure triangle (see here)…
So try to manage a better place like professionals mostly do. Sitting or moving around on the first row (if possible) means more light in the lens.
From your place, try to make general mood impression pictures at f 2.8. Zoom in on the subject (f 5.6) while the performer is standing still e.g. singing a ballad. Let the camera decide wich setting is best like auto, party or sports mode. More pictures means more hits.
But above all: don’t forget to enjoy the show. :-)
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Rudy
Hi Colin
I second most of what Rudy has said. However, there are a few things you can try to improve matters. The first thing to remember is that cameras only measure reflected light. Therefore, choose spot-metering and try to prefocus on an area where you know the performer will be ie. right by the microphone where the performer will be lit by bright spotlights.
As Rudy said, high ISO leads to more noise, but in concert situations this noise can actually enhance the photo by giving it a grainy effect.
Buy a cheap monopod. they are easily carried and can be rested on your chair and gripped by your knees.
The only other alternatives are to get tickets nearer the front!
Regards
PBked
11 months after I bought it at costco, the EVF ( viewfinder ) started to fail. It’s like I looking through a white veil, or through a fog filter. Sometimes this is so bad that I can barely see the scene. At that time I didn’t send it for repair because it was just 2 weeks before my summer vacations and the LCD screen was still working fine, as the rest of the camera. Then a few months later it was back to normal. Yesterday evening for the graduation ceremony of my son, it started working ok, then gradually the white fog reappeared with a bit of static … The EVF becomes almost useless ! I should add it doesnt depend on the battery charge level. Of course now, after 1 year and 1 months, no more warranty … any advise ?
Thank you all
By any chance, are you running into ‘dew’?
Taking cameras from hot / high humidity areas to cool / low humidity areas, or vice versa, can cause internal condensation.
Solution – time. As the air equalizes, the dew goes away. It can take some time. Even up to two hours.
Mitigation – e.g. keep the camera in the trunk or deep inside a camera bag when car travelling, so as to minimize any impact air conditioning might have.
Don’t know if this is what you’re running into, but if you can spot a pattern, such as changing environments, perhaps it is.
GL&HF
I don’t think it is dew related, looks more like an electronic issue. The image through the EVF looks very white, colors are extremely pale. There is a regular black frame around the picture. I bought my HS10 1 year and 11 months ago … 3 days after the problem reappeared, it has not gone away …
Now that I think about it, the first time th epbm appeared, I was shooting under the sun, in june. And 3 days ago it was also under the sun … heat related pbm ?
Anyone knows possible repair cost ?
Thank you
Are the HS20 and HS10 identical as far as body is concerned? Reason for asking, I found a Remote Switch Release (corded) that connect in the USB port. They don’t specify the HS10 but they specify the HS20.
Thanks
Hi RavRob
Unlike the HS10, the HS20 has an optional remote release cable { Fuji RR-80 }. I have seen some 3rd party remotes on the web and I can’t see any problem with using them, but obviously Fuji warns against the use of 3rd party equipment.
It is just sad that Fuji did not see fit to add remote capability to the HS10 which at the time was supposed to be its flagship camera.
Regards
PBked
Thanks PBked.
has anyone tried or done glamour or portrait shots with their hs-10? if so what did you use for a lighting setup and camera settings? would love to see some pictures like this that were taken with a hs-10
Anthony, I believe that the very same rules and/or suggestions for that type of subject(s) would apply to the HS-10. Any good book on that type of photography showing various fixed or electronic lighting set-ups will be helpfull.
Norman
Portraits lit by natural light are often very successful. Use the light from a window to catch the subject at different angles. Closer or further away from that source gives more or less diffusion. Use the drapery to create shadows. Different times of day and weather conditions are also influential. Best of all it’s free and – in tune with these modern times – carbon neutral!
For some strange reason my HS10 will only focus when it wants to, I hold shutter halfway down then fully depress,sometimes perfect another time way out of focus.both in daylight and flash mode.
Could be you have it set on Macro, which will upset focussing.
If its not that, try resetting everything in the menus.
I am having issues with the Panoramic mode. i have following the instructions on the manual, however when i try to set the direction ie left to right , i highlight that arrow, press on Menu/Ok centre button, but it does not seem to set. it is currently on the down arrow and i can not change it. Any help would be appreciated.
Cheers
Hi Sylvana
Please make sure your lens is on full wide angle ie. fully retracted. Even the slightest extension of the zoom is enough to prevent you from selecting the other directions.
Hope this solves your problem.
Regards
PBked
PBked,
oh my word, something so simple that nearly drove me crazy. Thank you for your reply it has saved my sanity!
Cheers
Does anybody know what size the jpeg images are, direct from the camera – pixels per inch, inches per side? Photoshop 7 (old Mac version) gives me very strange figures when I open them up initially.
Thanks, Glenn
The reason for the above question is I want to preserve the quality of the images before I convert them to Photoshop format and edit them. G x
The image sizes are given on page 85 of the manual.
Too many to list here, but the L 4:3 size, for example, gives prints 31cm x 23cm
Thanks Robbo. Photoshop suggests figures of 128 cm by 96 at 72 pixels/inch!! Must be some strange default in the programme. So guess at 31 x 23 they’re a 300 pixels/inch resolution. Will work from there. Haven’t found a programme for an OS and computer as old as mine (Mac G4 OSX 4.11) so I can use RAW/RAF. G
I have a HS10 camera. How do you remove objects that are in front your main feature.
Cheryl
Been to the forest with my camera so I got more questions. I noticed that when the camera lens in fully zoomed out the petal like screw on appears in the picture around the edges. When I view my .raf files in Fast Stone Image Viewer it says all my photos are 2048 x 1536 = 3.15mp is that what my photos have been taken at? I thought the hs10 was 10mp ?
Hi Carl
By ‘petal like screw on’ I’m assuming that you are referring to a screw on lens hood. If that is the case, then yes you will get cut-off at 24mm fully zoomed out. Best to remove it when using wide-angle.
The 10mp designation of the HS10 refers to its maximum resolution. In certain modes and situations the camera will reduce the total amount of pixels. A quick browse through your manual will tell you in what situations the camera will switch to lower resolution. There are a few which is why I have not detailed them here.
Regards
PBked
Thanks PBked for that. Do you know if there is a way to fix the mega pixel at or around 10mp. Although my pics look ok on computer screen if they are only coming out at 3mp a £15 camera could produce that and would be such a waste of my hs10.
Hi again Carl
The setting for image size L 4:3 is the only setting that utilizes all 10mp. You cannot stop the camera from reducing pixels when using the advanced modes such as multi-motion capture. Don’t forget, however, that pixel counts do vary between shots and you will never get a set of pictures that consistently rate 10mp. This is true of all digital cameras including the most expensive ones. My Canon camera has an 18mp sensor, but the blurb for it uses the term ‘up to 18mp can be achieved’.
Regards
PBked
Thanks PBked for your feedback :) Carl
I have been taking some shots of a blue tit flying to and from its nesting box. I set the shutter speed to max 2500 thinking that i would get a sharp picture. However the wings of the bird are all blurry due to the speed of them moving. How do i capture the bird in flight? Carl
Birds in flight is always tricky – sometimes it just a matter of luck.
I think your shutter speed sounds about right.
Try panning – that is following the flight of the bird with the camera, then take the pic when you have it in frame.
You could also try panning with burst mode, take several pics as you pan and you should be able to get at least one good shot.
thanks i wil try that :)
Carl, one of the members of our camera club uses a set-up that includes some flash units that are triggered electronically from the master unit. Of course this must be within the range and power of the strobe lights. He does a lot with various humming birds and is able to stop the action of the wings.
Norman
Hi…it seem like every time I use any SD card in my hs 10…it will not download pics via a card reader…the card has been used in other cameras and previously downloaded via the card reader…what is going on? thanks (I have to use the hs 10 cord connected to the camera in order to download)
LaDonna, have you tried another card reader? The first card reader I purchased only read certain cards with lower gb storage. The second one I purchased worked with all of my cards. Perhaps this may help.
Norman
I bought a new reader today so I will give it a try…thanks
well bummer…tried the new high speed reader to no avail…it seems as if once a card has been in the fs 10 it will never be read by a card reader again!
LaDonna, have you tried formatting the card while it is in the camera. It will erase everything on the card, but should properly align the card and camera. It may work.
Norman
excellent idea…will give it a try…thanks
well, I tried reformating the card in the fs 10 to no avail…so I quess I’ll just keep using the usb cord to download pics…thanks for the help
Looking for a digital computer mag for beginners. I have been down to my local Tesco store and there are simply loads of them. However I noticed that in most its all about camera reviews and stunning pictures. The mags were also full of how to use paintshop etc on the computer to touch stuff up which is a side i am not interested in at the moment. I was hoping to find a publication just packed with techniques hints and tips for a novice like myself, to learn about and to try out in step by step guides. Am I hoping for too much ? Carl
Hi Carl
Yes, I think you are expecting too much. I too despair with the content of current magazines. One I bought recently had ‘Shoot better landscapes’ plastered across the front page. However, the article was all about taking a photo from one location and, using photoshop, merging it into a landscape shot in another location. Now, I am old-fashioned and I don’t see that as photography although I can see that there is a place for that sort of thing if you are hoping to sell your pictures. When I take pictures, I am trying to capture memories – memories of what I saw, not what my imagination can invent.
I think you would be better off visiting Waterstones and looking along their shelves. There are some good step-by-step books out there – The Digital Picture being one of them. They are not cheap, but they are books you will return to over and over again.
Best regards
PBked
I’ve got some great info from books picked up at Charity Shops. Some of them were actually for ‘film’ cameras but are helping me get to grips with all sorts of common techniques. And how to deal with low light etc.
Glenn
Hi Glen.
You made a good point there. When think about it, I’ve picked up quite a few excellent books for £1 in charity shops.
Regards
PBked
Thanks PBKed and Glen. I will look in local charity shops for some bargains :)
You can get almost any digital version of a magazine on the internet.
Try mobilism.org or worldmags.net for starters. A good starter mag – in my opinion anyway – is Photography for Beginners.
Worldmags has issues 10, 11 and 12 available, just do a search for the title.
i bet if you join your local libary you will find some good useful books and they wont cost you a penny. unless your late returning them.
I really like Cambridge in color. Great tutorials and techniques on various subject.
Try this:
cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
Looking for a digital computer mag for beginners. I have been down to my local Tesco store and there are simply loads of them. However I noticed that in most its all about camera reviews and stunning pictures. I was hoping to find a publication just packed with techniques hints and tips for a novice like myself, to learn about and to try out in step by step guides. Am I hoping for too much ? Carl
I’ve just bought a Fuji HS10 and can’t seem to get the macro mode to work. I’ve set the dial to auto (not SR auto), set macro to Super macro, extended the lens fully but the camera won’t focus on close up objects.
What am I doing wrong?
Alan, the manual mentions “zoomed out” which may mean totally withdrawn and then the zoom is used to gain focus. I have photographed baby hatchling spiders and such using this setting.
Norman
Thanks for the quick reply Norman,
I thought zoomed out meant fully extended but have realised that it means fully retracted.
I’m still playing around taking shots in various modes and am hoping to
take some decent macro shots soon.
I’ve just bought my daughter a Panasonic FZ 45 for her 21st birthday and will be comparing the 2 in macro mode soon.
Thanks again
I have a HS10, which triggers work with it. The yonguno rf Nikon or rf canon? Need to know before purchasing
I have read a few comments about turning off IS when using a tripod…Is there a reason for this?
Thanks
Hi RavRob
Where you been? Long time no hear. Yes you’re right about turning off the IS when using a tripod. Some camera systems have tripod and panning detect mechanisms, the HS10 does not. If you leave IS on, it can have the opposite effect and make your images blurry.
Regards
PBked
I’m guessing that as I use a monopod – with possible side to side wobbles – that leaving the IS on is a good idea. Yeh?
Hi Glen
Short answer – No. IS is designed to counteract the small movements you make when handholding your camera. It can’t compensate for large movements and wobbles. The person who complained about blurry pictures when off-roading in a landrover even though they had IS switched on, was on a hiding to nothing.
So on your monopod, switch off IS and don’t let it wobble!! Consider yourself told off!
Best regards
PBked
Ouch! Sharp rap to the wrist acknowledged! :-)
Tx PBked for the reply. Now I know :)
I have been busy learning my camera and doing tons of reading. Getting smarter by the day (maybe). Sure learning from all you guys and as usual your answers are so much appreciated.
Hello Rudy,
Thanks for the advice I have got my 1st ever pics of the moon with some details etc. I did extend the zoom to full. There are 2 AF buttons on left hand side i tried both but wasnt sure which one you were referring too. I turned the IS off as suggested and used the 10 sec timer to take pics. I used the M mode but didnt see a pictogram on the bottom right of screen? The moon came out really nice but then i decided I would like to capture some of the clouds around it but had no luck. I did put the iso up 200 and in the lcd viewfinder the clouds showed up ok but on the pgotos everything is completely black except for the moon. Any idea how to capture some nearby clouds ? Carl
Hi Carl,
On page 2 and 3 of the manual, you can find some drawings of the HS10. The AF-buttons are numbers 27 and 28, but I wasn’t referring to them. When I mentioned to “AF the moon on 720 mm” I simply ment pressing the shutter button.
The pictogram I was referring to on the right bottom is called “exposure indicator” and has number 23 on page 5 of the manual.
Now, back to your intention. The moon is bright because it reflects the light of the sun. So, full moon means more light. Clouds aren’t reflecting that much light, so only on a very bright night with very dence clouds (also reflecting the sun’s light) you can capture clouds in the nearest location of the moon.
Increasing the exposure time might also “overexposure” the light of the moon (revealing no structure anymore) but nevertheless enhance the view off the clouds.
Always bare in mind that you are photographing right into the direction of the light source, which is not obvious.
I guess you’ll have to play around (like I did) to get the most out of it :)
Regards
Rudy
Thanks Rudy,
I will playplay around with the settings later.
Once again because I haven’t had a response yet…
I live in Albuquerque, NM and I’m anticipating the upcoming annular solar eclipse. I would appreciate any information regarding solar filters for the Fuji HS10 (and any other cool filters for that matter), and any tips on photographing this event. Thanks!!
Hi there
Hoya make a Neutral Density filter labelled x400 in a 58mm screw thread to fit the HS10. Hoya say that this filter can be used to photograph the sun, but use your LCD for composition instead of the viewfinder. Hoya filters are not cheap, but welder’s glasses rated at 14 or over are fairly inexpensive. Again do not look directly at the sun through your viewfinder even when holding the welders’ glasses in front of the lens.
If you browse the web, there are several very good articles giving tips on how to photograph the sun.
Regards
PBked
Woke up last night and there was a clear sky with full moon. tried to photograph the moon but just keot getting like a blurred light bulb effect. I want to be able to photograph the moon and see the mountains on it etc like you can with the human eye. Any advice would be helpful as to what settings to do etc. Carl
Hi Carl,
I’ve done it a few times with very nice results. Use a tripod mount, turn IS (image stabilisation) control OFF, use the timer function set to 10 sec to avoid moving the camera when pressing the shutter button.
Zoom to maximum 720 mm and AF the moon. Set the camera to lowest ISO (value 100) and choose RAW+JPEG for saving the pictures. In the RAW photograph (RAF file) you have more abilities to correct WB (white balans) and color values (K)
I always use M-mode on the mode dial. You will see in the right bottom corner of the screen (or EVF) this pictogram: – ____|____ +. A vertical marker will go from left to right when turning the command dial with your thumb. Turn the knob until the vertical bar is in the middle, then your photo has the best exposure time (for that ISO and F-stop). Turn it left to the minus (less exposure time) is darker, turn to the right to the plus will result in a brighter photograph (longer exposure time).
Since your working on a tripod, you don’t have to worry for long exposure times.
The F-stop at 720 mm is F5.6. Higher F-values (max F11) will need longer exposure time but the max time for HS10 is 30 sec.
Clouds near the moon will often be blurred due to wind motions and long exposure time (add a nice effect)
Hope that helps
Happy shooting :)
Rudy
Hi Carl,
Just to add to Rudy’s comments, I’ve shot the moon a few times with my HS10 and have found it best to expose with spot metering. The moon is moving quite fast so you’ll want to use a somewhat fast shutter speed. I recently saw a recommendation the other day to underexpose the moon by a couple stops (you could use bracketing for this to get the right exposure) and to manual focus, taking many pictures while rotating the ring a tiny bit in between each one. These last recommendations I haven’t had a chance to try yet but I will the next time. Full moons are the hardest to shoot because it’s so bright, you might want to try on a 3/4 or 1/2 moon first.
Best of luck,
Patrick
Hi. I’ve got a question. My hs10 camera is not recognized by Windows 7 (64 bit). Is this normal ?
Thanks a lot.
Hello Cristiano,
It may be the case that you need a 64bit version of the camera drivers/software. If Fuji dont make them then the easiest way to access your photo’s would be to put your SD card into a sd reader etc. Hope that helps Carl
Hi – I just got a used Hs10 and am flummoxed. I have it on auto settings and I can’t seem to take anything but a blurry picture! If I get far away and use the zoom it’s ok, but if I try to take a photo of someone 5 feet away it’s so blurry. What am I doing wrong? Any thoughts are much appreciated!
O-ooh, seems like the same lens trouble I’ve had. I had my HS10 bought “new state” in a photostore back in 2010. It had the same issue: even on a tripod I couldn’t make a sharp picture on 24 mm (wide open for landscape) They were all blurry even on M-modus at value f11. So I was pretty sure it was a production fault.
At 105>720 mm everything was sharp. I had to send it back to the shop and got it replaced for free from manufacturer.
It took about 5 weeks.
Regards,
Rudy
Just a thought – check you haven’t got Macro mode set, this will upset your focussing completely.
Just a thought, try and set your camera on Close Up for that distance. The HS10 should focus fine on that setting.
Really loving the picture quality of the HS10 video. However when i play it back on the pc I can hear that the microphone has picked up all the noise of the camera focussing etc, Is there a way to stop the camera lens re-focussing and making noises etc whilst in video mode?
There doesnt’ seem to be any way around it I’m afraid – unless anyone knows different. You can try manual focus, but its tricky while filming and even then the focus ring makes a noise as you turn it. Even turning off the sound altogether doesnt have any effect on movies, thats just for beeps etc made by the camera.
HI, i seem to be having a problem when putting videos taken from hs10. watching it in the camera itself is okay, but when i put it in the computer, the video does not go together with the audio. the Audio is fine, but the video keeps on stopping and jumping..
Could be you need a faster memory card, the best are class 10 and you can get them quite cheap now. There are other posts about choppy video on this page, just use Ctrl-F and enter a search word, eg ‘video’.
I had the same problem on my old XP computer, but I bought a 3GHz PC with 4Gb of ram running Windows 7 and it plays the mov files with no problem.
Hi, sorry if this sounds stupid but how do I switch to Raw on my Fujifilm HS10?
Hi there
Go to set-up menu and scroll through to RAW – it’s the last but one on the menu.
If you want to be able to use RAW without having to go to the set-up menu each time, you can assign it to the C [custom] button on your mode dial along with your other preferred settings.
Regards
PBked
So simple, thank you.
This is not an HS10 question but related. I have an HS20 and am looking for an inexpensive but reliable annular solar eclipse filter for the lens. Does anyone know of such a critter? The eclipse will pass over Reno, NV on May 20 where I live, and I want to attempt to photograph it. Thanks for anyone’s help in the matter.
LL
PS. I went from an HS10 to an HS20. Love them both.
My HS10 has arrived so I am off to the forest to try and snap some birds. I did experiment last night briefly in the garden and used the telephoto lens on max to zoom onto a bird in my plum tree some 20 feet away. The photo came out great but the bird seems far away i kind of expected it to be filling the picture. Is there a digital zoom on the camera and if so should i be using it combined with the optical zoom to get closer on my subject ?
Also my camera doesn’t have a usb cable to the pc. Can i confirm before ordering one that it is just a standard mini usb to usb ?
Would just like to say that finding this forum has been a god send and thanks to everyone who has been advising me :)
Carl
Hi Carl
When I first bought my HS10, I too was a little disappointed with a shot I took of a fox sunbathing on my shed roof. The picture came out great, but the fox still seemed to be small. However, as I also took the same scene at wide angle, I was able to compare them side by side and work out that the distance was roughly 30x shorter on full zoom.
The HS10 does not have digital zoom as such. However, it does have a feature called instant zoom. When focused and zoomed on a subject, press the UP arrow key on the keypad. This will give you a white rectangle on you EVF/LCD. When you take the picture, the area inside the rectangle will be magnified by 2x. The downsides to this feature are
a] The picture inside the rectangle is not enlarged – this only happens when you press the shutter.
b] The quality of the picture is not so good.
c] At full zoom, any camera shake will also be magnified by 2x so if you want to use the feature you should really be using a tripod [just remember to switch off IS if you do]. But used carefully, yes you can achieve 60x zoom.
The USB you require is indeed a bog standard one.
Hope this has been of help
Regards
PBked
Silkypix 3 – have downloaded this from Fuji site onto my elderly Mac G4 OSX 4.11. Won’t open. Perhaps a compatibility issue?
What free software could I use to convert RAW (Fuji style) into say a TIFF that I can edit on Photoshop 7 (old I know!)?
Thanks Glenn
Hi Glenn
Adobe supply a free download called ‘DNG Converter’. This software will convert your Fuji RAF file to DNG which can then be opened and edited in Photoshop. You can save your edited file to other formats such as JPG or TIFF and still retain your original image. I also think that Photoshop is much more user-friendly than Silkypix.
Regards
PBked
Thanks PBked – got all excited for a moment there (yeh, I know I’m sad). However trying to open the software I am told it’s incompatible with my system – presumably its an intel Mac version. Will keep looking …
G
OK – premature there! The latest version (6.6 I think) doesn’t work but the 6.4 version is the last one that will work on PPC Macs. Now downloaded – yeh! G
I notice you can get a 2x telephoto lenses that screw onto the of the hs10 lens. I have no idea about photography just setting out, so is this small lens something i should have in my arsenal ? and more importantly what situations would i use it in ? “Whats it for”
Carl
Carl, with a 30X optical zoom and a digital multiplier as well, the HS10 should provide enough telescopic power to cover most situations. The difficullty lies in holding the lens so that movement doesn’t distort the image (photo). The 2X telephoto doubles the power of the prime lens. There is of course a price to pay for this other than the purchase. I have used my HS10 to photograph ships on the Bosphorus from the European side and had to set the camera on the wall surrounding the roof garden of our hotel (I didn’t have a tripod with me).
Perhaps you should begin to use the HS10 for varying types of photography before purchasing items. That way, you will recognize your particular needs. Good luck and welcome to the group.
Norman
Thanks Norman,
A wise answer if ever i heard one :)
Carl
I live in Albuquerque, NM and I’m anticipating the upcoming annular solar eclipse. I would appreciate any information regarding solar filters for the Fuji HS10 (and any other cool filters for that matter), and any tips on photographing this event. Thanks!!
Will the HS10 take a remote shutter cable ? so you can take photos without touching the camera button ?
There’s lots of this stuff covered in the forum – I downloaded everything to read at my leisure. Pity there doesn’t seem to be a search button, which would help.
But it appears that the general consensus is that a remote is not possible but the timer function might give the jitter free results that a remote gives.
Glenn
Glenn is right, there isn’t a remote for the HS10, the best you can do is use the timer setting. Maybe you could upgrade to the HS20 or HS30?
On searching – you can always use the browser search facility – press Ctrl-F and enter your search term in the Find box. I do this all the time.
Hi Carl
If you search the web you will find some heath robinson affairs. Most cost around $25-$40. A friend of mine has one and he says although it looks weird it does actually work.
Just type in your search box ‘remote release for HS10′
Regards
PBked
@ Robbo – thanks for tip!
Hello,
Just waiting delivery of a second hand HS10. Just looking for a very cheap ext flash unit. Probably never use it but came across these on ebay for £5 are they safe in regards to the voltage issue with the HS10 shoe?
Yongnuo are regarded as safe to use for the HS series – use the page’s search to see other references to Yongnuo on this page (Ctlr-F)
Hello Robbo thanks for your reply.
Can i confirm that a light gun at £5 on that link would be ok to use for my hs10 when it arrives :)
Yes, from all I’ve read about Yongnuo, they are all suitable for the HS range.
Got HS20 EXR and I love it so much; nevertheless as your knowledge about photography is increasing, so does your hardware requirements.
I’ve been thinking about external flash, but can’t afford EF-20/EF-42. About getting some yongnuo, but not sure about HS20/HS10 max hot shoe trigger voltage.
My question is, does anyone know what is the trigger voltage for “official” fuji flash (the EF-20/EF42)? at least we’d have some guidance of max hot shoe voltage for these fuji HSxx series (not to mention X-series as well, as I imagined they won’t be so much too different each other).
Thx & best regards.
Yongnuo RF-603 will this work on hs10
Just discovered this forum. So much useful information and so generously shared.
Have just bought my HS10, £135 on eBay adn so far am really impressed. I freaked a bit when I read the section about lens contacting each other and cracking – is this common. How should I avoid it? Thanks – Glenn
Hi Glenn
No, it is not common. The HS10 sold in sufficiently high numbers that you are bound to get a few duff ones. However, it was suggested on another forum that over zealous turning of the zoom may cause this problem, but I don’t know.
Regards
PBked
Thanks PBked! Had a close look at mine in the daylight but so far its OK. Can see how if you got over enthused they could collide – there is small gap between barrel and lens at full retraction ( you can tell I’m no camera expert!).
Very pleased with results so far – though haven’t ventured too far through all the manual permutations yet. Will take a while to have that much confidence.
Glad the forum is still active – I reckon that the previous generation of most current technology is still damn fine, and hugely cheaper!!
Cheers Glenn
Hi,
Anyone out there who can help me in understanding regarding the Manual Focus on Fujifilm Finepix HS10? What is that white line which is below the focusing window? What is the yellow dot & why does it keep flickering? How do I know whether I have got a sharp focus or not; is there any beep indication??
Thanks!!
Setup menu, Focus check, set it to ON.
Now when you use manual focus, you can see the target in the centre of the EVF/LCD, magnified to aid focus.
Difficult in the EVF until you get used to it – its such a stingy little viewfinder, you can hardly see anything anyway!
The line you mentioned is an indication of how closely the focus distance matches the distance to the subject in the focus brackets (the part-circle above the indicator). You need to make the end of the line meet the yellow marker. (Page 51 of the manual)
BUT, if the camera is hand-held, the ‘target’ in the brackets will move and upset the position of the yellow marker, so you really need to use a tripod if you use that method.
Easiest I find is just to rely on the magnified bit.
No, theres no ‘in focus’ beep.
I have a finepix hs10. After installation of the soft, i can’t use help fonction of raw file converter.
Thanks for your Answer. Jules
Do you mean the Silkypix software?
You can get a copy of the help manual in several places, heres one:
shortcutinc.com/cms/manuals/sp/SilkyPixManual.pdf
Hey there
can anybody help me, why my flash can not working??
Thanks
Hello Agung,
Regarding why your on-camera inbuilt flash is not working, I would suggest you to check into these:
1. Are you in super-macro mode? If yes, use the left 4-way directional pad and turn off the super-macro
2. Is your volume muted? By which I mean, is there a speaker icon with a lightning bolt & an OFF mentioned in the LCD/EVF screen just beside the metering option in the top hand side? If yes, then just press and hold the disp/back button on the back of the camera below the 4-way directional pad. This will turn off the silent mode, as the AF lamp, sound and flash don’t work in silent modes.
3. Are you in any of the special shooting modes, i.e. continuous shooting, AE bracketing, best frame capture or zoom bracketing? If yes, turn them off by pressing and holding the button with a camera icon on the top plate of the camera just behind the shutter/on-off button and use the command dial/4-way keys to turn it off
4. Are you in panorama mode? If yes turn the mode dial to any one of these – Auto/P/A/S/M modes
Just check with these things and check if your inbuilt flash works. If it still doesn’t then its wise to get it checked from an authorized Fuji service center. Hope this helps you..
Regards
Hello Everybody,
Anyone out there who can tell me about a good external flash unit which can be used along with Fujifilm HS10. I am aware that it will not meter through the lens, but i’m very much willing to use it as a manual flash.
Except Vivitar 285HV are there any other makes of external flash which can be used with the Fujifilm HS10?
I’m also looking to use it as an off camera flash so can RF triggers be used? If yes, then which one?
Looking forward to hear from you guys..
Hi there
Metz also do a couple, but I can’t remember the models. Just google ‘Metz flashguns for Fuji HS10′
Regards
PBked
Hello PBked,
Thanks for the recommendation, but nowadays these Metz flashes are available as ..for Canon/for Nikon, so would it be sensible to go in for the for Nikon ability as Fujifilm and Nikon were once a partner associate?
In that case can a Nikon Speedlite work on Fuji HS10?
Are the connector pins on the hot shoe contact different on Nikon speedlite as compared to Canon Speedlites?
Oh what about radio triggers??
Looking forward for your reply
Regards
Hi again
The problem with flashguns is the trigger voltage. If it is too high, it can fry your camera. Here is a list of recommended guns for the HS10:-
Metz Mecablitz 30 C-2, 36 C-2, 44 MZ-2 digital
Canon 540 EZ
All of them can be picked up on ebay either new or used.
Hope this helps
PBked
P.S.
The first gun should read Metz 20 C-2. Sorry for the typo.
PBked
Hi PBked,
Thanks for the flashgun list. Yes I am aware of the trigger voltage issues with the latest digital cameras. But can I use a Nikon speedlite??
I’m interested in using the flashgun as an off camera flash so I’d be requiring a set of RF triggers.. Is it going to be compatible with Fuji HS10?
Regards
Hi again
The Nikon speedlites, like Canon have about 5 contacts which line-up with the contacts on the camera’s hotshoe. The HS10 has only 1 large contact and so you need to be looking at the non-dedicated guns that I listed. So no, I don’t think the speedlight will work.
As for triggers, the Canon 540 EZ can certainly use them and I believe the Metz 44 MZ-2 also, but the Metz new price is over £240, so I think second-hand is the way to go.
Sorry I can’t be more helpful
Regards
PBked
Hi PBked,
Thanks for the info. I will surely look into the Metz 44 MZ-2 variant as it would be helpful for me as an off camera flash.
Oh can the newer Fujifilm EF-42/20 flash guns work on manual mode (if they have that option) on the Fuji HS10?? Also considering that it would be a proprietary flash gun in some way..
Looking forward for your reply
Hello HS10 Fan,
Metz flashes are a good choice if you want a decent on-camera flash. Vivitar 285HV is the work horse of flashes!! But be aware of the older versions which doesnt have the HV mentioned in them as they can give out voltages of beyond 300 which can actually fry out the sync circuits in the camera & also be aware of imitations of the Vivitar 285HV.
As for other brands in manual flashes you could consider Yongnuo external flashes which are economical and you can even buy a couple of them as your off-camera flashes and couple them with RF triggers. Yongnuo has RF triggers too.
You can have a look at this webpage if your interested in Yongnuo for Fuji HS10:
http://www.shewsbury.com/2010/07/yongnuo-speed-lite-yn-460.html
Hope this helps you..
Thanks RDS and PBked for your suggestions.. I will look in to either Metz or Yongnuo flashes. By the way RDS that was an excellent link on Yongnuo you suggested for me. Thank you..
Hi
Thank you for the answers I recived from RDS. I would like to ask another question. How can I set ” manul focus” on my fuji HS10 camera.
look forward to your reply.
Hello Marvic,
To set the manual focus function on your Fujifilm HS10 press and hold the 4th button AF C-S-M on the left vertical column of buttons on the back of the camera and use the command dial or the 4 way controller and select the MF. There you have it. Manual focus is enabled.
Thank you very much for your help , RDS .The advice you gave was great !
Hi everyone,
Does anyone have any tips for photographing portrait photos. I’d like to make them with most blurry background possible. It won’t manage to make that really blurry, just a bit. So if someone has a tactique, please share it with me.
Hello Arnold,
Regarding blurry backgrounds (bokeh) with Fuji Finepix HS10, it would be a bit difficult to achieve the creamy bokeh as with any dSLR. This is due to the small sensor on Fuji HS10 in comparison to a dSLR. But then again here are some tips to achieve a fairly good enough bokeh for a small sensor camera with HS10:
1. Try to use the Portrait mode. This will give you a larger aperture and hence some amount of bokeh can be achieved.
2. Utilize the massive zoom factor! Try to keep the distance between the subject and the background as far as possible. The farther you keep more blurry the background. Move back from the subject and utilize the zoom and frame the face of the subject in the viewfinder/LCD and press the shutter. There you have it. A good looking portrait with a good enough bokeh.
P.S: This tip works in all modes.. Auto, PASM as well.
3. Try to use the standard color profile instead of the chrome setting as this gives the skin tones a natural look.
In a dSLR you can vary the bokeh with the aperture settings but with the Fuji HS10 it is not possible to achieve a bokeh with the aperture settings owing to the small sensor as I mentioned above.
All said Fujifilm Finepix HS10 is one versatile equipment.
Happy shooting!!
Hi Arnold
Please also look at my post [9 down from here] about using macro to achieve bokeh.
As RDS says you will be best using a large aperture but if you then use zoom the aperture will change to smaller apertures which will increase the DOF. At full zoom the closest focusing distance is 3 metres so you would have to be at least that distant from the subject and your subject would have to be at least twice as far in front of the background. I think you would be better keeping a large aperture at wide angle and physically moving in and out from your subject. If you use my tip of using macro or even super macro you can reduce the distances from camera to subject and subject to background.
However, try out RDS and my suggestions and see what suits you best.
Regards
PBked
Hello Arnold,
Actually speaking the aperture in Fuji HS10 isn’t mechanical like in a dSLR and hence zooming in would change the aperture settings. But a photo taken at f/2.8 and at f/11 wont show much differences expect for being sharper at f/11. As PBked mentioned using macro mode will be helpful. Try using macro mode and the zoom factor. Your sure to gain a good enough bokeh. But super macro you cannot zoom to take a photo as you have to be in wide angle mode to actually utilize the super macro function.
Thank you very much for your tips. I appreciate it and I will try them out!
hi could anyone please tell me how to turn off the focus check on my hs20 exr many thanks darren
‘Focus Check’ is when you have manual focus on, and the centre of the subject is magnified on the LCD screen.
Turn on or off in the Setup menu. Page 97 of the HS20 manual.
Or do you mean when you have taken a picture, and the camera displays the image on the LCD screen?
If you want to turn that off, its also in the Setup menu > Image Disp. > duration or OFF. Page 93.
how do you enable raw mode and secondly are there anyone outthere shooting night club photos
On the HS10, RAW is tucked away in the Setup menu – not very convenient.
You could also save it as part of your Custom set of settings. You change to RAW and save the current settings in the Shooting menu, last item > Custom Set > Yes.
Then when you want to switch to RAW, turn the command dial to ‘C’ and the camera will use all the settings you saved, including RAW.
This is described on page 33 of the manual.
You’ll probably find RAW painfully slow – best to use when you aren’t in a hurry to take shots.
Hi, I have tried using Tethered Capture in lightroom 4 but it will not recognise my HS10 any help would be appreciated
Hi Steve…
Tethering only works with certain cameras, and the HS10 isn’t one of them.
The USB connector is only for uploading images to a computer and nothing else.
OK thanks for you help
my cam had a problem(lens stain) so i took it for service…but after two weeks,i noticed that the zoom seemed smaller…so i took a photo(a window) with the exact same focal lenth from the same point but in the on photo (both seen in 100%) the window seemed bigger!does it sound normal to you?another photograph-engineer,had told me that the lens(before the service)where a bit moved,so they contact each other…could this explain the bigger previous zoom?
thank you…
I spose it could, but if you think the lens isn’t as good as it was, maybe you could ask the person to have another look at it?
ok,thank you very much!
Dear Moose,
I have a problem regards uploading a video I recorded onto the computer. I conducted an interview that needed to be recorded, so I used my HS 10 11. I got it two years ago and didn’t really know how to use it. I forgot the actual mode I used to record the video though, but I think I used the one witth the red camera or the “C” mode. I used the camera to record the interview until it stopped recording (it’s maximum record length of 30 minutes I mean). Then I recorded some shorter videos for about 2 minutes.
I have to burn a CD for my teacher, so I uploaded the video files to my computer. I was able to upload the two shorter videos to my computer, but I just couldn’t upload the 30-minute long video. I’ve tried directly connecting the camera to the computer and connecting the memory card to the computer, but neither of them worked.
Can you please help/teach me on how to put the video onto my computer? Why can’t I upload it?
Thanks for reading this long post.
Can you see the video on the camera? I mean, does it play, does it actually exist.
When you remove the card and connect it directly, can you see the video file on the card? If you can, there shouldn’t be a problem, but maybe it got corrupted or something and the computer can’t handle it.
Yes, I can see it both in my camera (I can play the video on my camera) and the card (Well, at least, the thumbnail of the video can be seen when the card is connected to the computer.) I got the shorter videos uploaded to my computer but the 30 minute one can’t be uploaded. The video is 3.8 GB, will it be too big for the transfer?
Could be that your SD card if formated in FAT. FAT won’t allow for files greater than 4gig…..that 3.8 could be so close that it might actually be corrupt.
Check the format of the card. If it is in FAT, you should likely use NTSF for future recordings. It won’t save this one but will allow you to save such files in the future.
Hi ,I am desperate for help. Please if anybody can help me I will be very pleased. I tried to take some night photographs and the results did not satisfay me . One of the reasons is I can not set the shutting speed on 30 sec. on manual settings and i use the regular night settings on sp 2 mode. Can anyone explain to me how I can set my camera with 30 sec. shutting speed on manual mode.
Look forward to hearing from some one .
Hello Marvic,
With respect to night photography I’d suggest you to use the Manual (M ) mode than using night mode on SP2.
As for the 30″ shutter speed, this can be achieved in Fuji HS10 only in the M mode & it is dependent upon the ISO value too. For example at ISO 100 you can achieve a 30″ speed, 15″ at ISO 200, 8″ at ISO 400, 4″ at ISO 800, 2″ at ISO 1600, 1″ at ISO 3200 & 1/2″ at ISO 6400. This can be achieved by rotating the command dial which is beside the (right side) the PASM mode dial.
As for your night photography, limit yourself up to ISO 400, use a tripod (Its a must) and shoot in RAW format as you can adjust various parameters and remove noise/artifacts from the picture during post processing using the RAW file.
thank you for your help RDS
Very pleased with the results from my HS 10 with one exception – shots of birds flying. Have tried but failed to get sharp in focus photographs with both continuous focus and tracking. Any advice or suggestions please?
Hi Les
You are using the right modes, but unfortunately with this type of subject you will also be using a long zoom and this is where camera shake rears it’s ugly head. High shutter speed is a must. If you are shooting against a blue sky then aperture can be reduced [you only need a short DOF for the subject]. If shooting against a landscape then you will perhaps want to raise the aperture some but still use shutter priority to set a high speed. Have you tried burst mode to take a series of shots. This might raise your chances of getting a good shot. Hope this helps.
Regards
PBked
Many thanks PBked. Will give it a go.
thanks for that reggi,
english was a bit out there, but i got the jist of what you were saying.
ta.
Hi Steve
Just to add to what Reggie said, I have posted this before, but in order to use macro successfully to create bokeh, you need to make sure that your subject is within the focus limits and the background outside of them. If you check page 130 of the manual, all the focus distances are given. eg wide angle on macro 2m – 5m. Therefore the subject needs to be inside 2-5m and the background as far outside 5m as possible.
Regards
PBked
thanks pbked,
i did have a look on this site for something to do with bokeh, but there is a awfull lot of posts and my eyes started hurting reading them all. thanks for the info on macro, i will try them.
thanks steve
hi
had the hs10 for 4 months now and have been trying to get a bokeh affect. i know the apeture is used, the smaller number ie: f/2.8 (subject in focus) larger number ie: f/11 (everything in focus) even small number and stepping back an using the zoom to fill frame, but the only way i can get it is by using macro. the (f) numbers dont seen to make a difference on the photo. i can take a photo on a tripod at f/2.8 and the same photo at f/11 and they virtualy look the same, maybe a little clearer. is it just my camera or am i expecting to much from a bridge camera?
in my experience.. your situation is like mine and i think to other HS10 user… but in my observation there a specific distance that we can use macro setting to make a bokeh.. when shooting for a bokeh first i set to manual then zoom to subject if wont focus use macro.. in portrait i use may zoom to have a bokeh effect.. sorry for my english
Hi, does anyone know if the HS10 has a changeable lens? I really want to get a fish eye lens to go onto it but i’m not sure if you can for this camera? thanks
Hi Madeline
Bit annoyed coz I just posted an answer and it didn’t go through. So here I go again. If you type in ebay’s search box the phrase “fish eye lenses with a 58mm thread”, you will get presented with quite a few. The one I saw first was a Bower with various sizes of adapter rings including a 58mm for $44.90. Any of these accessories with 58mm will screw into the front of your HS10 lens. How they work out tho I can’t say because I have never tried one. I should imagine that you would keep your Fuji fully zoomed out [wide angle], but I just don’t know. Perhaps you have a friendly stockist near you who might let you ‘try before you buy’.
Hope this helps
Regards
PBked
thank you so much, just had a look and i’ve found one which shows pictures they have taken using the fish eye lens with the finepix HS10 and it like the way they look so hopefully mine will turn out the same!
Hi all HS10 users and boffins,
You must have all used online auctions sites and loathed the way some people take dreadful pictures of the items they are selling (usually discourages people from bidding for them and devalues the item).
I am trying not to be one of them people and would like to take pictures of this beautiful rocking horse I am selling on my HS10.
Please can someone suggest some settings so that the pictures do the rocking horse justice. It has a lot of detail and I would like to exhibit this in the photos I take.
Your assistance would be much appreciated.
Kind regards
Niz
See some tips in:
http://www.digitalpicturezone.com/types-of-photography/top-six-tips-for-indoor-photography/
Although some tips are not applicable to your case, in general they are good advise. Professional photographers use at least two flash units mounted in “umbrellas” to avoid shadows. One trick that I learned when this is not possible, is using a white cup (or at least the bottom of one) in the front of the flash of the camera to “smooth” the light in the subject. Choosing the background is also important. You can use a roll of non gloss paper to make an infinite background.
I hope this helps
Glas
Hi Niz
Good advice from Glas above. Just want to stick my 2 pence worth in.
Many photos on auction sites make the mistake of trying to show the whole object from different angles. I would suggest that 1 whole view is fine, but how about highlighting detail in various parts of the horse eg. zoom in on the head from a low angle or the saddle detail. Two or three shots like this can have a lot more impact than four views of the same object.
Regards
PBked
Hi, I got a refurbished hs10 last Christmas and it has been fine until the other day and when I turn it on nothing happens. It had done this a few times before but previously I could view pictures but not take them, then it began to work fine again as long as when I turned it now I moved the lense. I’ve tried drying it out on the radiator in case there was any water inside it and changing the batteries but that had no effect.
Nicole, I have not heard of this ever happening, and since it was refurbished you might try contacting the seller. Probably the time you should have tried to contact the seller and/or Fuji was when it began to act “quirky”. Did you somehow get the camera wet? I’m asking this because you stated that you have tried to dry it out on the radiator. I hope that you can get this resolved via the seller or Fuji.
Norman
Hi there
anybody out there who knows how to get the battery icon to show on this camera? I been having trouble locating it,
Thanks!!
Hi Martin
I don’t think the battery icon on the HS10 displays all the time. The only time I see the battery icon is when the batteries are getting low. When it does appear, I get about another 20-50 shots depending on the shoot and whether or not I’m using the flash.
I always carry a spare set of lithiums to meet this eventuality.
Regards
PBked
Martin, see page 15 of the manual re the messages and/or icon showed for battery condition. If you look at the “display” section of the manual the battery icon is #21. One of the things about the HS10 from practically all of the reviewers, is that it is “battery hungry”. PBked offers good advice in suggesting lithium powered AA batteries. Prior to downloading the firmware updates, there was a problem with premature low battery warnings. During my trip to Spain, I was freaked by this and was constantly changing batteries. Since I didn’t know where to buy them at decent prices, I was relegated to purchasing them at tourist locations. Never has so much been spent on so little. Also, I was discharging and recharging my ni-cads every night. I must have tossed a great many alkaline batteries that were still good.
Norman
Thanks for all the info guys! much appreciated.
Does HS10 support a SDHC Class 10 card?
Hi RavRob
Yes it certainly does. That’s all I have ever used. I don’t think it writes any much faster than a Class 6 card and if it does, you’ll be talking nanoseconds. But yes is your answer.
Regards
PBked
Thanks BPked
I tried a 32 gig class 10 200x and it did not work. The 16 gig class 10 200x however worked great.
Thanks for your reply
Hi hope someone can help, i have been trying to use my HS10 to take pictures through my telescope TAL150pm (reflector) i have the t-ring and eye piece adaptor, connected it all up. The problem im having is all’s i seem to be able to see is the cross bar mirror mount and nothing beyond it. the camera will only focus on it even in manual ,do i need any other type of connector or eye piece?
Hi Stephen
Not sure about this one, but have you tried setting the focus mode to area [manual page 50 ]? With this mode you can manouvre the focus point using the arrow keys. Try moving the focus point off centre away from the crossbar mount if possible and see if it can focus on the mirror itself.
Perhaps someone else can come back with a better suggestion, but in the meantime, it could be worth a try.
Regards
PBked
Wondering if you will set in play, a similar site and or page for the upcoming Fuji hs30 due out in March of 2012?
Hi James
The user’s manual is already available for download, so I took a look at it yesterday. Apart from the EXR functions and a slight change of placement of buttons, I can’t see anything much different to the HS10 or HS20. Much of what is on this site will apply equally well to the HS30. To create a site solely for the HS30 or HS25 would not be worthwhile in my opinion, but others may disagree.
Regards
PBked
Peter (PBked) and Norman,
Moose here, just wanted to thank you for keeping the HS10 forum going the last few months. It’s been a crazy year with my wife and I having our first baby. My free time has been spent changing diapers and slowly working on a redesign for the site.
Peter (PBked) – I sent you an email to the address you use when commenting. Not sure if it’s accurate or not?
Norman – I sent you an email to the address you use when commenting. Not sure if it’s accurate or not?
If both of you could get in contact with me, I’d like to thank you with a gift card to Amazon. Go ahead and shoot an email to me at moose “at” cameratips “dot” com.
I’ve also got something I’d like to get your opinions on. Anyway, thanks again for contributing to the site, your time and effort hasn’t gone unnoticed. Happy shooting! :)
Hey All, I have had the Fuji HS10 for about a year now and does anyone else have a problem with the colors of the photos taken with this camera being horrible?? Reds , Yellows etc. just appear dull and not true to the real color of the object being photographed….I rarely use it due to this…i had an older Fuji S1000fd that took amazing pictures and figured the HS10 was an upgrade but it seems like a downgrade in photo quality…..
Any advise or suggestions appreciated!!
Thanks,
Al
Hi Al
There was another post some time ago which mentioned dull colours etc. Of all the criticisms I have read about the HS10, the rendition of colours has not been one of them. Have you tried the chrome setting? Personally, I find the chrome over the top with very bright reds and very green greens, but my son prefers it this way. Scan thru the HS10 menus and you will find that sharpness, contrast, saturation, tone etc. can all be adjusted. Have you experimented with these settings? Are you using auto white balance or choosing your own, as the wrong choice will definitely make a difference to the colours.
One other thought – are you referring to the colours as displayed on the camera or as viewed on a pc coz the monitor may not be adjusted properly.
Regards
PBked
Hi, I ‘ve disabled every image manipulation inside the camera keeping my jpg-pictures as clean and natural as possible (even dull). You can also shoot in RAW-format for that matter. Changes to the pictures are always done in post-processing sessions with Photoshop, Gimp, Lightroom, Picasa, Photivo…whatever.
Take a picture with all sharpness, color features “high” and the same without. Have look at the pictures on a computer screen, zoom in on both pictures and you’ll find out for yourself.
Regards,
Rudy
Hey PBked,
Thanks for the response….On my HS10 i dont have a Chrome setting…only Standard , B&W and Sephia and yes i use Auto WB. I have been playing with the manual settings for quite awhile now with still basically the same results….Just seems odd that the older FINEPIX S1000fd that i had took way better photos….
Actually i did find the Chrome setting and it seems to be much better color quality…Appreciate the tip and helpful info!!!
Thanks,
Al
HELP! I have been asked to do 2 weddings with my HS10 – has anyone ever done wedding pictures and do you have any advise or suggestions – I have done one wedding (as a second photographer) and think that I may need an add on flash – any help would be greatly appreciated! I am by NO means a great photographer, but people love my pictures that I take with the HS10, but most of them have been outdoor shots. THANKS!!!
Sorry, never done wedding photos, but by coincidence I was earlier looking through a magazine, with this as its main theme:
http://89.248.172.172/viewtopic.php?f=123&t=299429
hope it helps!
Hi Susan
My advice on wedding shoots – Don’t ! Seriously though, after several successful wedding shoots, I was asked to do one for the daughter of one of my friends. On a day in midsummer, the weather was equivalent to a bad day in Siberia – well this is England, the only place in the world where one can experience all four seasons in one day. Anyway, despite a howling gale causing the bride’s veil to stand vertically above her head and driving rain I persevered. The daughter had not booked a professional in the interests of economy and although I spent several weeks processing the pictures to make the most of them the bride upon receipt was horrified and declared that I had ruined her ‘perfect day’. My friend and his wife have not spoken to me since and nor have I done any more weddings.
My successful shoots were based mainly around candid shots. Obviously the group shot is going to get in there somewhere, but in the main I used a telephoto lens and tried to get pictures where the subject was not aware to avoid them posing or at worst poking their tongues out. I captured many charming photos of young bridesmaids, the bride, the groom and the best man and guests in this way. The only posed shots were the group, the bride and groom and one which I’m quite proud of with the bride and groom hand in hand in front of the altar rail and superimposed their hands highlighting the bride’s ring.
I was pleased with many of the comments I received the best of which pointed out that I had captured the spirit of the wedding without photographing the wedding.
I know I have been rambling a bit, but what I am trying to say is look for the candid shots – the bride getting out of the car, the confetti throwing, the people rather than producing a pictorial diary of events.
Hope this makes sense.
Regards
PBked
PBked
Sorry I left out the technical stuff. Yes an add on flash might be useful, but as the HS10 has no ttl [unlike the HS20] you would have to be able to set the flash exposure manually and sync it with the camera. However, the HS10 has quite a fast aperture at wide angle at f2.8 so is quite capable in low light with higher ISO settings and IS enabled to use handheld without flash. High ISO leads to more noise, but with interior shots some graininess can enhance the ambience of the picture. If you can, visit the church beforehand and experiment to see which settings give the desired effect and it will give you an idea of camera angles, backgounds and so on. You could take someone with you to act as a model. Be prepared to use an image editing program for cropping etc. as it is very difficult in wedding situations to produce the perfect shot straight out of the camera with every click of the shutter – people move, expressions change, lighting changes etc.
Guys and gals, this camera is on sale on eBay with free shipping. FYI
http://www.ebay.com/itm/300657739288?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
Norman
Sorry, try; http://www.ebay.com/itm/300657739288
hi. could anyone explain what ,Frame no.Full means. this is on my hs10. how do i remove this. i have removed batteries, and changed memory card, to no avail. i am not a hot shot with cameras.any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Hi Charlie
Take a look at page 126 of the manual for an explanation of your error and the way to fix it. If you haven’t got the manual you can get it by using Moose’s HS10 Resources link just to the right of this post.
Regards
PBKed
Hi, I recently got a HS10 and love it but recently created a 2.7 gig HD video. For some reason I cannot transfer this from the camera to a PC. When I try the camera and PC appear to be transfering data for a minute, then just stop with no warning message. There is a file with the correct name in the folder where I was trying to copy the movie, but it is zero bytes. I have tried using a card reader to bypass the camera but the pc says the disc is not formatted. But I have done this before with no problem and the video plays fine on the camera. Any ideas anyone?
Has no-one any ideas? I am really stumped here and you guys were my last hope. I have event tried Fuji but have no reply.
Please help if you can.
As theres no one prepared to have a go at this problem…
I’m guessing that its a corrupt memory card. Your PC is reading it so far, eg, at least the file header, then meeting a problem – probably some missing data – and giving up.
You could try a recovery program – there some free ones – try a search for ‘rescue memory card’ – I saw lots. like this:
http://www.cgsecurity.org/wiki/PhotoRec
Thanks Robbo, I will try those links and get back to you. My only thoughts are if it is corrupt its odd that it plays on the camera perfectly.
Hi Dave
I tried to post this answer a few days ago, but if you read my post further up, I had trouble submitting it.
If you are ok using Windows explorer, try the following
1] Insert your card in the reader.
2] Ignore and close any Windows boxes that pop-up.
3] Open Windows explorer. Your card should appear as an additional drive eg D:\Sandisk.
4] Click on this drive and you will see a couple of subfolders, one of which will usually be DCIM. Navigate thru these folders until you find your picture files. Left click the first file, hold down the shift key and then click on the last file.
5] Drag and drop your files to your chosen folder.
If the card is not corrupt, then your files should transfer.
A] When formatting your card, always do it in camera. Ignore any Windows messages that tell you you should ‘ Fix the card’.
B] When you are happy that your pictures are transferred, format the card before starting a new shoot.
Hope this works
Regards
PBked
I hope somebody can help, i’ve been trying to get some night sky shots on my HS10, when i take the image it comes out on the display looking really good bright and clear , the problem is when i upload it to my PC the image is very dark and barley visibly. I’ve tried turning the brightness up on my PC incase it was that but the problem stil exists. any help would be most welcome.
You might have the LCD screen set too bright. (Page 111 of the manual).
Change the brightness to normal in the Setup menu.
Also, the EVF might be too bright – search this page (Ctrl-F) for ‘ravrob’ to see how to fix this.
Also, you might be able to adjust the ‘bad’ images in a graphics program, the free Irfanview can do this.
thanks for the tip will try this
My HS10 is eating my battery power way too quick. I replaced them on Saturday, then again on Monday and now it reads the battery is low.
Would this have anything to do with my camera being slow between shots even when I have a high shutter speed?
Need help quick.
are you using rechargeable batteries.. there’s a lot of way to reduce the consume of battery silent your camera off the illuminator.. of the shutter sound.. less live view of picture.. shoot using EVF.. avoid flash if you can… ^_^ hope it will help you..
Carol, have you ever updated your firmware? My HS10 was continually warning that the battery was low. I spent a lot of money in Madrid and threw away good batteries because of this. The latest update in the firmware included a fix for the premature low battery signal. I believe the latest update is 1:04. Check Fuji’s website or call customer service. The HS10 is “battery hungry” for sure, but not as bad as I thought. I turn off my automatic switching fom eyepiece to screen and also tell my camera that I am using rechargeables. It seems to lower it’s power demand as the voltage in rechargeables is less than in alkaline.
Norman
Thank you for your comments. I was told by a camera store person not to use rechargeable batteries, but get lithium.
I turn off the sound, don’t use flash, but do use the big screen for viewing instead of viewfinder.
Also, since this happened, I started using Camera Raw, a requirement for the class I am taking. Would the camera Raw eat up battery power?
Also, I’ve never installed software. Where do I get the updates and how do I update the camera. I bought this HS10 as the last one in the case and it was the display model. I do not think it came with all the accessories that it was suppose to, like the USB camera link.
What can I do?
thanks for your help,
carol
Hi Carol
Norman has given you some useful comments, but I would like to add my own. Several times on this site I have extolled the use of lithiums. I use nothing else and regularly return shots of between 700 and 1000 – none of my friends can come close to half of this using rechargeables, but as Norman says you must choose lithium in the setup menu for battery type. As for power saving, I have shutter sounds and have never switched off the auto evf/lcd mode. However, I do have instant review turned off and also have a low time interval before auto shut off. I set IS for shooting only as using continuous is one of the biggest drains on the batteries as is using continuous focus. Raw files do take slightly longer to store than JPGs, but shouldn’t make that much difference.
As for firmware updates, these are to be found on Fuji’s website. To see which version you have – press and hold the disp/back button as you turn the camera on. As Norman says the present and probably final version is 1.04 although version 1.01 was the one that corrected the battery indicator problem but using the latest version is always recommended. Downloading and installing the firmware to the camera is quite straightforward but do make sure you have new batteries installed or a mains power source.
Hope this helps
Regards
PBKed
Hi Moose. I live in Leeds,West Yorkshire,England ,and came across your very helpful website whilst doing research on the Fuji HS10. I purchased mine today, secondhand ,in York- an historic city loved by Americans and tourists from all over the world. The camera is in mint condition with all accessories and I can’t wait to start using it. I have several digital cameras including a Pentax DSLR and Panasonic FZ20 bridge camera but the Fuji takes me to a new level. I look forward to exploring your excellent site, chatting with other users and picking up lots of hints and tips. Thank you.
Welcome Roger, to a friendly and informative site. I hope that you enjoy your HS10.
Norman
Hi Roger
Welcome to the site. You are lucky to live in such a location. My wife hails from Co. Durham, so after a visit to relatives last year we trickled our way back to London by way of York, Eden Camp, Mother Shipton’s Cave and the moors and my HS10 was put to very good use. Took over 800 pics.
Regards
PBked
Thank you to Norman and PBKed for their kind welcome to the site. I have just purchased a super Lowepro TZ10 black camera bag for the HS10 at the value for money price of £19.99 at Jacobs in Leeds-my home city. I can highly recommend this bag. The camera is a snug fit.it has a pouch at the front for storage of batteries,memory cards and perhaps a lens hood and has a quality feel to it. It has a decent removeable shoulder strap and a handle and belt loop.
Hope this is useful information for any one looking for a bag. Lowepro do various sizes if you want more storage space.
I have found the autofocus in the HS10 painfully slow…. even my Canon Powershot A3200 and earlier Canon Powershot A620 were a lot faster. In low light the problem is magnified. Is there a fix to it? I am yet to upgrade to firmware 1.04. Will that improve the autofocus?
Hi Siddhartha
The autofocus on the HS10 is not lightning fast, but it is not all that slow either and it is faster than some other bridge cameras. Like all P&S cameras, the HS10 uses contrast detect for its focussing so in subjects with very high or low contrast it may struggle to achieve focus. However, the HS10 excels over other cameras because you are able to focus manually.
All cameras can have problems with focussing in low light, but with the HS10′s relatively fast F2.8 aperture at wide angle it has to be quite dark before it has problems.
In amswer to your question – no the 1.4 firmware will not improve the autofocus speed but it does sort out a few other issues and so is worth doing.
Regards
PBKed
Thanks for the reply…I will upgrade the firmware.
Hi
Ive just come back off holiday, and took my HS10 with a 4gb SD card. The card was blank when I started using it, and i took around 200 photos…however, when I came to upload them to the PC, only the first 8 loaded properly, with the rest showing as blank RAF files!! I can still view them on the camera, so they havent been formatted. Does anyone know why this has happened, when I didnt delete them in the first place, and how i can get them to upload?? Thanks! :0/
Hi Jo
When you say they are showing as blank RAFs do you mean that there is no file size in the details column and were the first 8 also raw files?
Do you connect your camera to your computer or do you have a card reader?
If you use a card reader then there is a free program called ‘Recuva’ which you can download from the web which will not only recover deleted files from your SD card but also the good files.
There are often minor glitches when transferring files through a camera connection, which is why I prefer to use a card reader and it’s much quicker too. Try transferring them again.
Regards
Pbked
Hi,
I use the reader on the computer. I have looked on the camera, and the first 8 are not RAW….
I will try downloading Recuva now. Thanks very much for your help!
Jo
Hi again Jo
Now I know you use a card reader, can you tell me how you download from it. For example, do you wait for the Windows box to pop-up with various options and then use that? If so, there is an alternative way if you know how to use Windows Explorer.
However, some Windows info panes cannot create thumbnails for RAF files. I think you have already downloaded your images. The way to check in Windows Explorer is to change the info pane view from thumbnails to details. At the end of the file name you will see the size of the file in kilobytes. If this number is 0kb then your files have not transferred, but if you see a number listing thousands of kilobytes such as 3642kb for example, then your file has probably transferred. What you need is a viewer that can display raw files to look at them. One of the best free versions is Irfanview.
Regards
Pbked
RAF file are photo taken in RAW.. i view my raw file using lightroom or or silkypix..
If anyone has had a problem with the on/off switch sticking, this seems to be a common problem with the HS-10, as I was informed on this forum. Fujifilm fixed mine under warranty, free of charge. Be warned, however, that if you send it to the repair facility in New Jersey, it took Fuji two months to send it back!
I am looking for a good camcorder. Can the HS10 record equal quality full lenth home movies as a good hd camcorder? It is after all 1080p.
The HS10′s full 1080p quality is -okay.- for personal snapshotting and taking videos for things you’re not uber serious about. I say this because the sensor is a CMOS sensor, not a CCD. the difference is you won’t get hardly any flaring or 2 point star artifacts, but you will get rolldown shutter artifacts on occasion(half exposed frames and horizontal motion warping), because a cmos exposes lines of pixels at a time while a ccd exposes the whole frame.
720p quality is superb though.
How do you set up a HS10 to work with Yonguno RF-603 triggers can’t seem to get mine working?
Theres a video here, looks straitforward enough:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mKAxyOahPyE
I think you have to switch “External Flash” to ON in the Shooting menu.
I am wanting to take some photographs using my HS10 and a light microscope- had anyone else attempted this and if so, what equipment have you used?
I imagine I will need a ring to allow an eyepiece attachment to the camera direct (similar to when I have taken photos using a telescope)…
Ta,
I played around with this once – I didn’t get any special equipment, just 2 pieces of card – one a narrow cardboard tube which fitted over the microscope eyepiece attached with duct tape to a wider tube which fitted around the camera lens. Camera on tripod pointing into the microscope and I got some decent images.
I have been trying to find a setting for the built in flash but can’t find it…..it might not exist.
What I am trying to do is have the camera remain at a certain settings when I pop up the flash. Normally a flash will work well at 1/60th and should lock the camera at that speed. It doesn’t seem to work on my HS10.
Is that normal for that camera?
Is there a settings that would have it lock at 1/60th ?
Thanks
Hi RavRob
The answer to question 1 is yes and the answer to question 2 is no. If you want to use your own settings you will need a compatible external flash gun either manual or with auto and manual. Manual is required because the HS10 has no TTL unlike the HS20, you need to sync the camera and flash gun yourself. You will also need to set the menu option for external flash to on.
A quick search on the web for compatible flash guns for HS10 will give you a list.
Regards
Peter
Thanks for your reply Peter. Much appreciated.
Hello, i feel that i saw you visited my site so i got here to go back the desire?.I am attempting to to find issues to improve my web site!I guess its adequate to use some of your ideas!!
Hi all,
I have had my HS10 for over a year now and though this is my first post i have been a avid reader.I have learnt so much from this site so would like to put a little back.
I am into Birding and needed a camera with zoom that was not going to break the bank and after reading reviews and finding this site i bought one.I have been getting some fantastic bird and other wildlife shots but needed that little bit extra.
For a long time i have been contemplating a Teleconverter and a few days ago i took the plunge and bought a Sony VCL-DH1758 and wow does this lense transform the HS10.
A tip David Doak posted a long while ago about combining optical and digital zoom gets me some fantastic shots,720mm-1440mm.
With the 1.7x Sony Teleconverter i am now getting 1224mm-2448mm and the shots that were just too far away are now achievable.
Anyone thinking about a teleconverter i can highly recommend the Sony VCL-DH1758.
Hi Dingo with this teleconverter does the picture quality for your wildlife shots lose sharpness.
Can you post any photos you have taken with the teleconverter to see how good or bad, look forward to hearing from you.
Hi David
Firstly my apologies for not acknowledging your post sooner. You may have seen my post about ‘non response’ which is why I frequent this forum less and less.
Secondly, I am pleased to hear of your improved health after your hospital stay.
Like you, I have also had the opportunity to work with the HS20exr as a friend also offered to swap with my HS10 for a week. I can only agree with your observations and I also had diffuculty in persuading him to give my HS10 back.
As the X-S1 is not due to be released in Britain until late February or early March at a price point of around £700, I don’t think we’ll be seeing many cameratip forums for it just yet especially as Fuji has just anounced the release (about March) of the HS25 and HS30.
Anyway, good to hear from you again.
Regards
Peter
I have been using a new Windows 7 PC since mid-December and discovered that mov videos taken on my HS10 will play in Windows Media Player 12(.0761).
I am trying to take shots facing the sun set with the subject in front but cant seem to get the subject light up all I see is a shadow and I cant see the face or body any suggestions
Hi Terry
I’ve made some suggestions in a previous post, but briefly here they are again. You are trying to take a backlit photograph so the normal metering mode will expose for the brightest part of the scene ie. the background. Many people will use the flash to ‘fill-in’ the subject and this works quite well. Another method is to use spot metering to expose for the subject. Purists will use an external light meter and take readings from both the subject and the background and average them out.
The HS10 in SR(Auto) mode has a position for backlit subjects and I have had some success with this, but generally I am not a fan of SR(Auto)
Regards
Peter
Use bracketed image mode with maximum fstop adjustment (+/- 1 stop), load all of those images into hdrshop to generate an HDR version of the shot. Load into photoshop. tweak
First, what a great forum!
Anyway, i have had my HS10 for about a year. I’ve not played with it as much as I would have liked and most of my images so far have been taken using auto (I’m learning through playing)!
I was just wondering if I will need to do any updates to the software and if so where will I find these.
Thanks!
Emma
Hi Emma…
Very likely you have the latest firmware already.
You can find it by holding down the Disp/Back button when you turn the camera on.
The current version is 1.04.
If by any chance you have an earlier version, you can get the update and instructions here:
http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/s/finepix_hs10/index.html
Hi guys. I’ve been your reader for a very long time (bought my HS10 last July) and you guys make an awesome job, sharing tips and tricks on HS10. I learned a lot, including the basics of the camera, and other advance settings.
Which brought me to ask why this morning, as I was shooting in RAW by the sea shore, my max aperture went down to F/13. I almost freaked out, kind of delighted, but I could not repeat it again. Was wondering if this happened to any of you. I read that the minimum aperture hs10 can provide is F/11 (in manual and auto mode).
Thanks, hope there are others who can share. And thanks, too, if no one can answer. Happy shooting, everyone! :)
Regards,
Amoi
I mean my aperture went down to f/13, and I could not do it again (since hs10′s limit is f/11, as we all know).
That’s nothing man. Its baby brother the Fuji s700 can go all the way down to f16.8. It makes a definite CLICK when it switches from the iris to the pinhole.
Hi. Just want to share, in case some people ask.
Fuji has made an update with our Silkypix Raw converter, and you can download it here:
http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/myfinepix_studio/rfc/v3010/index.html
New features included are:
Corrected items in this RAW FILE CONVERTER (ver.3.0.1.0)
1. The function of developing to TIFF image is added.
Corrected items in this RAW FILE CONVERTER (ver.3.0.0.9)
1. Developed image is slightly cropped compared to JPEG image.
Tags: RAF, raw file, converter, jpeg to tiff, developing
Thanks, Amoi, I just updated my version.
I use Fastone image viewer/editor to edit my raws (in settings change Raw options to highest quality color production and image resolution, first though) because it makes the process of blowing through about 200 raws a bit more easy.
Hi HS10 folks. I’m want to buy a variable neutral density filtre but have seen a comment on Amazon (uk) that it didn’t work with the HS10. Is right or is it a case of the reviewer not knowing how to use it? Or are there some that work and others that don’t, in which case what would you advise?
I can’t find any mention of HS10 problems with filters on Amazon. There IS a mention of the lens hood and its use with filters, but thats not a real problem – if you must use both together, just buy a suitably-sized hood.
See here for a pic of my variable filter on the HS10:
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7168/6634708411_cbd8f24892.jpg
(click my name to go there)
I don’t know about other makes of filter, but this one – from 7dayshop – as you can see, angles out quite a bit, and has a thread on its widest part, I think its 62mm from what I measured. But theres no problem that i know of, with using it, or any other filter, on the HS10.
Thanks, Robbo. Either I was dreaming it or it was somewhere other than Amazon as I can’t find it either now! There is this review comment on Amazon US: “This ND filter will not work well with the Fuji HS20 camera. When mounted on the HS20 and the filter setting is turned towards maximum a dark “X” is produced on the view screen and the actual picture”. It’s not the comment I remembered, which just said “this won’t work with the HS10″.
Your reply is very reassuring, though, and thank you for taking the trouble. I will get on and start working on those slow shutter speed shots!
Thanks!
Yes, they sometimes include reviews from the US site at the bottom of a page. I found the one you just mentioned, but no sign of HS10.
I notice in the blurb for the product, they say “According to the optics theorem, it is not recommended to apply this filter for wide angle lens (<24mm, 35mm film format equivalent)." but I've played around with my ND and not found any problems at all, at any setting.
Hi,
I have been using my HS10 mainly to take indoor photos of people. Recently, the pictures have been coming out quite blurred and ‘concave’ looking, this is on the Auto setting or SR Auto. Also, I can take a number of shots of the same person/object at the same time, and some of the photos will turn out bright (when using the flash) whilst others will appear dull (still using the flash)
…I think what I’m asking is ‘Whats the best setting to use to take indoor photos of fidgety kids?’ :0)
I have tried to ‘manipulate’ the settings as though I know what Im doing, but have just reset them for fear of completely ruining the family album with blurry concave photos!!
Any help is much appreciated!!
Thanks!
Hi Jo…
Theres several similar posts on this page, with better replies than I could give…
If you search for the following, you can read some solutions (use Ctrl-F to enter search):
‘Pia’, ‘Garth Reid’ and ‘Nev’ – there are others, search for ‘indoor’.
Hope this helps.
thanks Robbo,
I will have a look now….
the hs10 has in-camera distortion correction -firmware- because the lens doesn’t have the glass to do this physically. When you take jpegs, you get corrected images, but when you take raws, you get what the sensor sees, which is the full 10mp plate uncorrected.
I should know…
I take pictures of shows in raw at high zooms…
and I notice.
that the walls aren’t curved.
Hi guys Belated Merry Christmas and Advance Happy New Year..
Guys who’s among here is a member of HS10/HS20 User in facebook..
^_^ share you photo using HS10/HS20
Hi, hope someone can shed some light. I’m kinda fedup. My hs10 fails to focus on 24mm. And sometimes photos are focused in the middle only of the photo. However when I zoom in it comes out great most of the time. I’ve tried on the auto setting on the mode dial as well as the auto SR dial any suggestions would be great. Thx
hi
Can you try manual focus, see if that works?
I’d go with robbo. focus. lock it by switching to manual or using the focus lock, and learn the -orbit dance- where you always stay the same distance from your target.
Hi All,
I have just been bought a HS20EXR for Christmas cannot wait to get started but before I do can anyone recommend a good tutorial which is aimed at the complete beginner?
Thanks
Chris
Cambridge in Colour have some excellent tutorials:
http://www.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
or you can also try the http://www.digital-photography-school.com/digital-photography-tips-for-beginners or http://www.exposureguide.com/
Hi ,I am having problems uploading video from my hs10 to my pc.
My pc seems to only recognise pictures.
Your help would be appreicated.
Most users remove the card from the camera and slot it into their computer or a card reader, then copy files onto the computer.
Hi Deano
The HS10 records video in Apple Quicktime’s MOV format. If you haven’t got Quicktime installed or a third party program like VLC media player, you won’t be able to view your videos. Both these programs are free, so there is no harm having them on your system.
If, however, you are actually having trouble transferring the files to your computer then this is a different problem. When you use a card reader, Windows will bring up a box with a list of actions and ask you to choose a method of transferring the pictures it has detected on the card.
If you know how to use Windows explorer, you can bypass this action box and access the card directly – it should appear as an additional drive on your system eg d:\ Sandisk. If you highlight this new drive it will usually contain up to 2 subfolders – 1 is usually called DCIM, but the other has different names depending on the card you are using. If you navigate through these subfolders, you will find a list of your pictures with either an RAF or a JPG extension and your movies with an MOV extension. By dragging and dropping you can move these files to any location you wish.
Hope this suggestion is of some help.
Regards
Peter
To all, a Merry Christmas, Happy Holiday and a Happy and Healthy new year. Moose, thank you for creating this informative site.
Norman
I have had my HS10 for nearly a year now. I got it used off of amazon.co.uk for £195 Stirling (They were nearly £400 when they first came out in UK) I always display – playback my pictures and vids on my TV – that way there is no hanging up or jumping like you get on some computers (You need quite a capable graphics card or you will get some jumpiness – but also try VLC media player (free) and AVS media player too. Obviously you need a connecting HDMI mini cable for your TV (flat-screen) they are worth every penny! All this stuff can be purchased off of Amazon. I have also got rawtherapee RAW processor that seems to work ok. PE
Wow, excellent price, I haven’t noticed the price since I got mine off Amazon when the camera first came out.
Wait a while and you might get a HS20 cheap as well!
I have two sons who play football. If I take a picture of the quaterback uing single or continuous frame I can’t take a picture of the receiver catching the ball because the camera is storing the QB pics. Am I doing something wrong?
Jack, I am not certain if this would be of any help, but I think that a class 10 media card processes information more faster than other (lower) class cards. I am reasonably sure that Paul, or David would know much more, in that I am not that knowledgeable with digital photography. I have been dragged,kicking and screaming away from film. This is but a logical guess on my part and could be totally incorrect.
Norman
David Doak gives/gave some excellent answers on this subject.
In fact, its worth reading down this page, if you have the time – theres all sorts of hints and tips.
To find a simialr post with a reply by David, search for ’10:04′ (Pia’s post)
Hi guys.. im using my beloved HS10 almost 7mos and i’m happy with our camera.. its great we just need to familiar with the capabilities of HS10..when i’m on shooting day i consume 2 set of batteries (8pcs)..(i shoot anything under the sun..) my question is, can we use a battery external or battery grip like for HS10?
The short answer is no. What batteries are you using? Many people use rechargeable, but personally I use lithium as I often get 700 to 1000 shots with them(I’ve mentioned this before somewhere further down). Make sure you use the setup menu to specify which type of battery you are using. Check to see if your camera is using up power unneccessarily. There are several features you can switch off to save power – check the manual. Also check your firmware version as earlier versions allowed the battery indicator to show prematurely even though the batteries were still good.
If you use rechargeable, buy a good set – Sony eneloops seem to be the favourite among photographers – and always try to fully discharge them before recharging. The HS10 has a facility for discharging batteries, but this ties up your camera – better to buy a decent charger/discharger.
Hi again Regie
Just a correction to my reply above – it should read SANYO eneloops and not Sony. Sorry bout that.
im using Akari Battery.. i use the technique and ohter way to reduce the battery usage.. if im in shooting day like weekends i shoot more than 600shots even in our house i shoot anything .. but when im shooting panning shot i use both EVF/LCD..i consumed my battery more on viewing and slideshow viewing.. i usualy consume 1set for shooting and spare for more on viewing.. i just want to have a external battery for more battery power…
Regie, someone on our site (I don’t remember who) suggested that when using alkaline batteries to tell the camera via the menu, that you are using rechargeables. Since the rechargeables have a slightly lower voltage, the camera reduces the demand upon them and in effect, they last longer. I had a problem with usage, due to the premature “low Battery” warning but the firmware update solved that. But, the HS10 is notoriously power hungry, and that was mentioned in all of the reviews when the camera was introduced. I use the Sanyo eneloops and carry fresh alkalines as back-up. This is why I suggested earlier on this site that AA Lithium/ion rechargeables would be most welcome.
Norman
Thanks guys but i do all possible way to reduce the battery consume.. im using rechargeable Akari battery and sanyo rechargeable battery..the reason i’m looking for external battery because i’m using my beloved HS10 not only for my hobby but also for money.. me and 2 of my friend always cover an event usually in mall for fee.. i dont have an DLSR camera, me and 1 of my friend use PNS cam(HS10 & FZ28) and the other one a 500D..in my “anything under the sun photography practice” i consumed 1 set and the other set for viewing.. but in event my 2 set of battery are not enought..my last option is to buy 4 alkaline battery.. by next year maybe i should invest for a good rechargable batteries^_^
If you use so much battery power viewing images, why not remove the memory card and slot it into your pc/card reader?
Otherwise, page 115 of the HS10 manual (you ARE talking about the HS10 camera here, aren’t you?):
the AC-5VX power adapter lets you run your camera from the mains, but of course thats only indoors!
This item is on Amazon (just an example):
Ex-Pro® Replacement Fuji part AC-5VX, AC5VX Mains AC Power Supply Adapter & Battery coupler kit [CP-04 included] , AC Mains Power Supply Adapter for Fuji Finepix Camera HS10 etc
Provides AC Mains Power supply to Camera’s using this part number. This part is used in conjunction with included coupler CP-04 (Included) to provide AC mains power to listed Fuji Camera’s.
Ex-Pro unit’s will meet or exceed the manufacturers original OEM specifications. 100% OEM Compatible, all functions. Note your camera can not be charged using this device as they CP-04 coupler [Included] uses the battery compartment, this AC unit provides constant power.
Lifetime Ex-Pro Warranty
ROHS, CE Approved and manufactured to a high standard.
I use eneloops in mine and they are fab. Really worth the extra, put the high spec normal rechargable batteries to shame!
Hi there,
Have been amateurly playing about with my HS10, but am keen to improve my knowledge of the features.
I want to take a photo of a face, close up, with the background blurred. Is this possible on the HS10?
If so, how can I achieve it?
Thanks!
The same rules apply, whatever the subject, so why not look at Moose’s page about the owl portrait?
http://www.cameratips.com/hs10/owl-portrait-fuji-hs10
I think the essential thing with this camera is to keep a good distance between the camera and subject – use the zoom to fill the frame – and between the subject and background.
Good luck!
Hi Jess
Paul has already given you some good advice but I would add that many of my subjects have been taken using the super macro mode. Make sure that your subject is at least 1.5 metres in front of a background then set your camera lenses to wide angle (zoomed fully out) and set mode to supermacro. In this mode you can achieve focus from 1cm to approx 1metre. Move in or out on your subject’s face rather than touching the zoom until you achieve the desired effect and the background will be entirely blurred.
You can of course use standard macro on full zoom, but you have to be at least 3m in front of your subject and the background more than 5m behind.
Let Paul and I know how you got on. It would be nice to get some feedback.
hi jess in order to achieve a bokeh shot or portrait (blurr background) the easiest way is set my camera to A mode choose f.28 then shoot the subject.. but i need to have subject and background distance as much as 2meters. you can use the macro mode also to focus the subject(much better).. point to the subject halfpress so you focus the subject then recompose your photo and framing… you need to choose the correct background to achieve a nice bokeh
for correction it’s f2.8 and when you zoom your camera it will adjust automatically..use zoom to fill your frame.. happy shooting..
With my trusty Fuji E500 I can go to My Computer open up the files and drag them to Adobe for editing. With the HS10 when I do this I am presented with a ” file extension not recognised” yet when I look at the files properties it says JPEG. How can I set up the camera to make Adobe talk to it. ?
HS10 saves files with the ‘JPG’ extension.
My copy of PS has, in its list of recognised files, ‘jpeg’, ‘jpg’ and ‘jpe’.
I can drag any of those file types to the PS icon, or to its open window, or to its entry on the Taskbar and PS accepts it.
Maybe your copy isnt set up to accept them?
I’m not a PS expert, but did read that you set up file associations by runninng the Bridge program, then Edit, Preferences, File Type Associations, look for jpeg etc and set them to PS.
You can also set up Windows to run a jpg file, when you click on it, with PS by setting up file associations in Open With.
hi guys i bought a fujifilm hs10 before 5 months is it possible for me to use it as a webcam or control it using the computer
The system your’e referring to is called ‘tethering’.
Do a net search for ‘tethering hs10′ and I think you’ll find there is no suitable connector for this, and no software for it.
I have just bought a second hand HS10 from a friend. He sold it to me because the view finder remains kind of dark when used. It looks like there is a skin over it. It is dark to the point where I can barely see through it which makes it pretty well useless.
I have read a post about setup menu on page 3 to change the refresh rate but I can’t find that menu item on my camera. Is that firmware thing? Would updating the firmware help with this?
Anything you can think of I could do to fix this problem?
BTW, after I got it the viewfinder worked great for about a day then back to dark. Not sure if I pressed on something I shouldn’t have. I did reset the camera and I noticed after the reset it was back to being dark.
Thanks
RR
Try this…
Switch to viewfinder mode, that is, the EVF/LCD button – make sure its set on EVF.
Look in the viewfinder, open the Setup menu, go to LCD brightness,
might be set to -ve amount. Increase to +ve, see if the viewfinder is brighter.
Pls let us know if it works or not – might be useful for other ppl to know about.
Thanks a ton Paul. It seems to have been the problem. I didn’t realize you could adjust the viewfinder and the LCD independently of each other and I bet my buddy didn’t know this either. I can’t wait to show it to him….he would certainly know if it is as good as it ever was or if he still find it is dark. Either way, I can now use it and I am pleased with the end result of this LCD adjustement.
BTW, I did show it to another friend who also does a lot of photography and who is familiar with that camera. He seems to think it is as good as it ever was.
Thanks again for your help.
YW – glad it worked!
Paul, we appreciate our latest HS10 Guru. Between you and David, it makes the world of Fujifilm HS10 seem safer.
Norman
Thanks Norman. Actually, I helped out on here months ago, when my main camera was the HS10, but then got myself a D3100 (traitor!), and have been doing a bit – where I can – on that forum.
Only recently I had a look on here and saw lots of queries weren’t getting dealt with, so here I am again!
My pal came for a visit today. I showed him the viewfinder and he says it is as good as it ever was. So I got a good, cheap camera and unfortunatly for him, his lost was my gain.
Thanks again for your help.
Well done! A nice Xmas pressie for you.
I purchased the HS10 about an year ago and then was enticed by a good price on the HS20, and went for it as well. I ended up making the HS20 my primary camera for various reasons (I still have the HS10), and was aghast went I dropped it and cracked the LCD. I have to use the viewfinder for my shots now, at least until I send the camera to Fuji for repairs. I thought I knew most of the stuff about the functionalities of both the cameras (all thanks to this wonderful site and the great people who make it so wonderful) but this EVF brightness thing is news to me and a very welcome one at that. I have now brightened up the EVF and the view is better than before. Thanks for the info guys :)
Hi all!
I was just wondering if there are any other external flashes that will work with the HS10 other than the Vivitar 285 HV or Metz.
I’m looking for something a little cheaper price wise.
Thanks!
I bought a Yongnuo Speedlite YN 460-II is a low cost flash light.
You can use it in Manual mode as well as in S1 mode. In S1 (slave) mode it will cooperate (auto trigger) with the flash on your HS10.
Best regards,
Rudy
Just seeing if comments work on this page…
Hi folks,
Recently I bought an Infrared filter for my HS10. Even using I tripod and trying several f stops and focus (manual or automatic) I couldnt take any “good” picture. Mostly the pictures are out of focus and with a bright area in the center. Does anybody tryed IR photography with the HS10? Any reccomentations? Regards from Brazil to everybody.
not specifically IR related but have you tried turning off the image stabilisation when using the tripod??
Danny C, I believe I tried that also (I tried everything!). What surprises me is the circular bright area in the center of the pictures. Does anyone took good IR pictures with the HS 10?
The bright spot in the center is a known issue with supezoom lenses and IR Exposures. You need a DSLR with a prime lense to get rid of this problem. You might try it on some other cameras that you can leave the shutter open for long exposure times it might work on a camera with a 3 or 4 X zoom lense.
As to focus IR does not focus the same as visable light use a higher F stop and change the focus distance for several exposures. If you have an older SLR Lense some had a red dot for IR Focus and you could use one as a guide. You might also google “IR Focus for camera lens” or a similar subject and see what you can find.
Bill Lewis
If you go to www.atncentral.com you can find Photoshop plug ins that will give a normal photo the “IR Look”. These also work in Lightroom and Elements you do not have to have the full CS version to use them Check for version support but so far most will work with Elements 8 which is frequently bundled with cameras and printers.
Bill Lewis
When I set the HS10 to External Flash on, do I have to change the setting each time?
Thanks,
Rick
Hello All,
I am a beginner in photography and I own HS10 camera. I read on internet that “for landscape photos one should set highest f-stop value so that more area will be in focus”. Hence I clicked some landscape photos with f-11 but somehow they seem very soft as compared to the ones taken with f-3.2 to f-5.6.
I am not getting the reason behind this or may be I have mistaken some facts.
Could you please help me this regard? also I would like to know best practices for capturing landscape photos using HS10.
Thanks in advance for your help.
Are you using a tripod larger F stops mean longer shutter times. For F11 your shutter will be open 16 times longer than the same picture at F 2.8.
Bill Lewis
im off to the isle of wight rock festival next year with my hs-10. can anyone with experience of festivals give me some advise on the best setting or settings for bands from a good distance, ie telephoto shots exposure, and focus, late in the evening with all types of stage lighting going on.maybe you may have some sample shots too show.
how do I set continious shoting on the hs 10
Page 43 of your manual:
Press and hold down the Continous button (top right of camera)
Rotate the command dial to get: Top 7, Best Frame, Zoom bracketing, or AE bkt.
Here it is:
http://coolthegeek.freewebspace.com/page1.html
(click my name to go there)
I got HS20 exr. The problem I am facing is, when i first started the camera, i had been asked to feed date & timing into it. As to follow the instructions i put relevant date but i missed to feed the right timing, as in the place of PM i put AM.
Now the problem is, the camera software is too complicated to change date & timings. I am not getting solution to change current timing.
Then tried another way. I kept my camera discharged for 1 month, as the CMOS battery will get discharge, but it was of no use.
Please tell me the way to change date & timing in my camera.
See page 92 of your manual – Setup menu > DATE/TIME
Hi,
I’ve been using my HS10 for about 6 months now mostly on the Auto & Manual, I’ve a question on th Program Mode on adjusting the Shutter speed and Aperture, I cant figure out on doing this as the Program Shift dial just changes the exposure
Thanks
Hi Ganesh
You are right that program shift changes both shutter speed and aperture which is what it is designed to do. Theoretically, program shift will give you different combinations of shutter and aperture while retaining a correct exposure. Depending on what you are shooting you can adjust program shift to give you a large aperture for portrait work for example, or you can adjust it for a high shutter speed suitable for action shots. However, it is quicker and easier to choose S or A modes depending on what you want to shoot. where you can choose either the shutter speed or the aperture and let the camera provide the alternative setting for correct exposure.
Manual is the only mode where you can change both shutter and aperture and have complete control just like we always had to in the ‘good old days’.
Regards
Peter
hi friends, i have a hs10 and thinking of adding a 2x telephoto lens.., please advise., does all 58mm lens fit? do i need an adapter?
Hi Raj
I am a little confused by your post. Do you really mean a 2x telephoto lens or do you mean a 2x teleconverter? If you mean the 2nd option then you are out of luck, because teleconverters need to be placed between the main lens and camera body which on the the HS10 is not possible.
It is possible to fit a Raynox lens (see other posts on this site) for carrying out macro work because they come with different size filter adaptors including 58mm.
I have a Sony x1.7 lens which fits on to the front of the HS10 lens and is quite good, tho not perfect.
With my HS10 I use a Raynox 2x teleconverter lens to which I permanently leave a 58mm lens converter ring connected. This was supplied with the lens. With a reasonably steady hand and plenty practice, it is possible to achieve extremely sharp results on full zoom.
The Remote Release 80 does not fit to my camera (connection not possible). Is there any possibility to make use of a Remote Release for the HS 10??
As mentioned below, in various other posts, theres no ‘official’ way of connecting a remote release to the HS10 (the HS20 has a connector for this).
People have come up with home-made versions – I made one using some wire + spring + Milliput + a normal release cable.
Theres other ideas in Graham Craddy’s post, just search for the name.
PLEASE can someone help re RAW and JPEG.
Hi all. Please can someone advise me. When I set to RAW+JPEG in settings and then copy the files on the camera I get two duplicate RAF files for each image – I was expecting one RAF and one JPEG (so I had an instant image and an editable one).
Am I expecting the wrong thing, or somehow setting my camera incorrectly?
Thanks
The silence is deafening – is everyone off playing with their HS20 already ?
Managed to answer my own question – don’t connect your camera direct to a windows pc – use a card reader. Then you can see JPEG and RAW. Also much quicker anyway.
Hi Steve
I agree with you about the silence, but as you will have seen, I have posted less and less on this site and only visit it now and again instead of every day like I used to. The reason I do not post so often is because I didn’t seem to get any feedback. There are several times I have made suggestions or comments, but nobody seems to respond with ‘thanks, you were right’ or ‘You’re talking a load of @#/x’ so I think – why bother. I’m sure David Doak must feel a little the same way especially as he devotes a lot of space to answer problems.
I think also, that as moose says, people do move on. Perhaps the HS10 was the camera of the moment for them a year ago, but now it is a Panasonic or a Nikon etc.
Perhaps with practice and the advice offered on these pages people have become confident with their HS10 and do not need the help they required at first.
I have actually posted some comments in the last few days, but I bet I don’t get any responses, like before.
Anyway I’m still pleased you were able to sort out your own problem. I have always argued the use of a good quality card reader.
But the ‘no reply’ thing is just the same on the D3100 forum.
About 8 out of 10 posters don’t even bother to come back on and say ‘ta’ or give any feedback whatsoever – its very offputting.
I still have a go at queries, but I keep it as brief as possible, its just not worth the hassle.
Peter – Hi…! My absence has been due to some time spent in hospital, which has actually fixed that problem… Now just catching up on various Forums.
I did have the chance about a month ago to use an HS20 for a weekend. The improvements seemed to be the external RAW button – but not one for Continuous (or keeping that ‘sticky’.)
The Jerk-O-Matic video zoom remains. The plastic tripod mount far too close to the battery door remains. And I wasn’t too impressed with its EXR modes – or the daft cramming of 16Mpix on what is still a tiny sensor.
The HS10 still beats it on low-light / high-ISO. The HS20 seems to be a bit better on the “camera decides” modes – Auto and Program – but the HS10 is easier to use and gets better results, in the “tell-it-what-to-do” Priorities and Manual modes.
I suspect that the huge difference in “sensor crowding” between 10Mpix and 16Mpix (60% more receptors, but only 7% more sensor size…) – has a lot to do with that, and with the HS10 being a lot better (and I do mean at full sensor resolution) – in low light.
And no – I wouldn’t swap my over year old HS10 for a week-old HS20…. The offer was made – the HS20 owner had my HS10 for the same weekend… His reason was that the “HS20 is too complicated – and yours does nicer pix, too…”
No deal! Sure, the HS10 has its “Fuji-isms” – and a couple of glaring faults – the plastic tripod mount and video-zoom…. But if very careful with tripods…
And you can “imagine” for video that you are using a DSLR and primes… Stop the video to change the “zoom”….! Then, later, in editing, use fades and dissolves to ease the different distance transitions.
Where’s the Cameratips Forum for the X-S1…? Over twice the sensor size of the HS10 – METAL tripod mount – SMOOTH video zooming – external RAW button – external AF-S / AF-C / MF selector – and a lot more – including “Made in Japan”….!
Suggested release price in the US is a “Premium Model” US$800.00 – so what that’ll translate to here in Sydney, is rather scary. But a very interesting concept – Premium Range Bridge Zoom” – nobody’s done that before…!
Regards, Dave.
Hello, I’ve had the HS10 for about a year now and i just will not use it much due to the fact the the colors in the pictures are sooooooo bad….Red’s are very Dull….Orange’s are Dull….among others but those two are the worse…..Why is this? and does anyone else notice this??? I have an older Fuji S1000 and that takes pictures with great true colors….I take alot of pictures at Hockey games and outdoor nature pictures but i just don’t like the color detail of this camera
I’d like to submit a wish list to Fuji regarding this camera…It’s still a “diamond in the rough!” Here are some suggestions:
1.) Improve the response/recovery time between shots. This is a difficult camera to use for fast candids – especially with flash.
2.) Change the shutter button. Replace it with a release threaded for a shutter release cable. This is very desirable for tripod work.
3.) Please do something about the jerky zoom movement!
4.) Improve the quality of pictures shot as faster ISO settings such as 1600. I do a fair amount of sports photography which often requires the faster settings.
5.) Make the double flash (red-eye) optional for non-external flash use. The red-eye mode creates extra delay and recovery.
6.) Add a provision for remote device triggering.
7.) Beef up the tripod mounting socket. The plastic mount is awkward and could be stripped fairly easily.
A news photographer and I were looking over this camera and were impressed with the range of the optics. The flip-out viewer was handy for certain shot situations (i.e. over-the-head shots). With some improvements, this could be a handy backup for the working pro. The new HS20 does not seem to be a great improvement.
I am experiencing large delays after I take a RAW picture. This makes it impossible for me to take another picture for about one or two seconds. Someone suggested it may be my memory card that is slowing everything down. I have been using standard SanDisk SD Cards (2 GB). Is this an inherent problem with the camera?
Hi Howard
Yes you guessed it, the HS10 takes a long time to process and save RAW files. If you really want to see things slow down, try choosing RAW + JPG and some continuous shooting. You will have time to make coffee and have a biscuit ! Buying a faster card is a waste of money as the speed benefits are so small you wouldn’t notice them.
But all that aside, it’s not a bad little camera is it ?
Hi what settings would i use for pet photography,i have the HS10,thanks michelle
I would use the continuous burst setting to allow for quick movements from your pet.
I am enjoying my HS10 that I got three months ago. One problem that developed is that the on/off switch has gotten very difficult to move. Any ideas?
Hi, I had just the same problem – in fact almost from new (Sept 2010). A couple of weeks out of warranty the camera would not switch on at all. Sent it to the UK Fuji repair centre and they repaired it FoC – so well done Fuji. The switch is now very smooth – was always a bit stiff and notchy – so I suspect they’ve replaced the switch. Maybe a design fault??
Thank you very much, Andy Fletcher. I shall contact Fuji next.
RD
I,m having a lot of problems when shooting using the sunset mode, firstly the pics i take are very underexposed and red in colour instead of an orange which you would expect – having used this type of mode on other cameras the fuji definately has problems.
Second; I cannot zoom in too close on sunset pics as the lens flair is terrible, it looks like a load of fifty pence pieces backed up against each other once i get to about 75mm. As the flair is from the sun which is in the main picture and not a side source a lens hood is no good.
Anybody got any clues as to wheather this is a problem with my camera or is it a common problem.
Is there a meter on the fuji hs10 and if yes cane you take a manual reading
When I try to take a picture( using SR auto mode) of a object which is located in a low light & the back groung of this object have more light, the picture of the object become very dark, and back ground become very bright. So I cann’t recognized the object after taking picture.
I want to take the picture as my object must be clear shown and also with clear background.
Please guide me about the correct setting of my hs10.
Best Regards
Satyen
Hi Satyen
The SR auto mode is not the best for backlit subjects. Use one of the PASM modes.
Try 1) Using your flash in daylight to ‘fill in’ the shadows of your object.
or 2) Set your metering to spot and focus on your object.
Hope these suggestions are of help
Hi,
After 8 months of using the Fuji HS10 I realized something was wrong when recording video. image will be blurred with a fixed interval. I realized this when I take pictures of clouds for the material. using a Full HD resolution and 28 minutes duration at millimeter 200-720.
I’ve tried to use a tripod but the problem remains the same. I also tried it on an still object like a chair in the room.
please give me the solution. Thank you.
I have the same problem here. Why my Full HD movies keep blurring, even in a tripod?
Hi Andi
Not really into video, but one thing occurs to me. Do you switch image stabilization off when mounting on a tripod? Fuji recommends you do not use IS when using tripods (HS10 manual page 17)
Is everyone asleep out there, or just not using your camera. I attended our camera club meeting last night and was exclaiming the virtues of this site.
Norman
Howdy Norman,
As is the case with the ‘digital age’, people move on very quickly from their electronics once something new hits the market. Case and point…the iPhone and the thousands of Apple fans who trade out their current version seemingly every year. Whatever the case may be…this resource will always be here for those who continue to shoot with the HS10. I still have the HS10 and use regularly on family vacations/outings when I don’t want to haul lots of lenses.
By the way, I’m just now getting back to this site after welcoming a new addition to our family. Check out the CameraTips.com homepage for a more in-depth update as to where I’ve been and where this site is going.
Thanks for your continued support!
- Moose
Moose, congratulations to you and your wife on your latest non-electronic aquisition. Guaranteed to provide more love, hope and fun than any camera, etc.
Norman
Congratulations on your family addition!
My HS10 Auto mode (not the SR auto) produces poor images indoors. There is a high color cast as well as grainy images in this mode only. Has anyone experienced this problem? Any solutions?
Nev – The HS10 is not at its best in the “automatic” modes – Auto, Scenes – and Program unless you “tell it what to do.”
From what you say – ‘Auto’ is pushing the ISO too high, indoors – sounds like 1600 or higher.
The “colour cast” seems to be what ‘Auto’ will do with “Auto White Balance”.
While indoors you’re probably best to use Aperture Priority, at first you might use Program – But – “tell it what to do”.
Select “P” on the Mode Dial. Now press and hold the top button of the 5 on left-back of the camera – ISO. It sounds from what you say as if ISO is in an Auto-Range mode. So use the Command Dial (or on the pad) to set a specific ISO level.
Indoors you might start with ISO 400. If the AF (AutoFocus) isn’t too happy with that, before going to ISO 800 – just where the noise/grainy gets ‘visible’ with the HS10 – try raising the Exposure Compensation – the +/- button behind the shutter.
Work the indicator on the bar to the right, say 2 clicks at a time, while trying the AF. If the AF isn’t locking-in by the end of the bar – +2 EV – return it to centre and go to ISO 800.
ISO 800 will be slightly noisy/grainy if the image is shown full-size – if you reduce the image size to 1600 x 1200 or smaller – most or all of the grain will be less, or not, visible.
The “colour cast” might be incandescant or flourescent lighting. Both are shown in the White Balance bar – bottom button on left back of the camera. In the lighting conditions that will apply – use the EVF or LCD – and click across the options – you’ll see the “casts” change – it’s a bit more obvious using the LCD.
With the BSI-CMOS sensor left at 10Mpix – relatively large and spaced receptors on a 1/2.3″ sensor – the HS10 is actually very good – for a P&S – in low light. But – like most others of its best functions – you can’t just “let it decide” – for best results, you must set it up, and “tell it what to do”.
Try the above and post back!
Regards, Dave.
Hi,
Great forum. I have just purchased a HS10 and have a couple of questions, if anyone can help.
1) Is there any way or rigging up some sort of remote control to take pictures without having to touch the camera.
2) As most of my shots are to be of things in the garden (wildlife etc) It would be very handy if I could view what the lens is seeing on my monitor (or tv screen), then I can sit safely out of the way, hence the remote control too.
Im sure I will have many more questions, as I get to grips with my new camera, so speak soon.
Thanks in Advance
Graham
PS Im also new to photography, so apologies for any silly questions.
A search for HS10 remote shows lots of queries about its existence, but no remote is available.
Ebay sell this:
Mechanical Remote Shutter Release for Fujifilm HS10
but its not very remote unless you have an extra long cable!
As for viewing on Tv etc, I don’t think so, unless anyone else knows different.
Thanks for the reply Paul
I will take a look now.
Graham,
I, too, have wished for a remote for my HS10. Unfortunately, Fuji seems to have made that provision in the latest prodigy – the HS20. The release appears to be a cable with a mini-USB type connector and push button control on the user side. I have researched this and don’t believe anything out there is available that will work with the HS10. My wish is that the HS20 had been available before the HS10!
Still a neat camera with the 24 – 720mm zoom optics. Perhaps someday, Fuji will issue a firmware upgrade to enable remote trigger capability. This would really be nice during tripod use for things like portrait photography.
there is a guy http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/forum who sells a bracket which attaches to the flash hotshoe that takes a cable or air release. i have bought one from him. i also bought a 10 meter air release which i use as you describe.
you can use the av cable to connect the camera to a tv and use the tv as the view finder. you will obviously need a long av extension cable.
only downside is the battery life as the camera auto off will need to be off. there are power packs available to overcome this but again it will need extension cables
Hi guys,
I love my HS10 but it fails terribly on indoor flash situations. Always out of focus with unusable results. this is extremely frustrating as outdoor and well lit scenes yield fantastic shots. Has anyone noticed this?
I’m wondering if upgrading the operating system will help. Any suggestions will be gratefully received.
Thanks,
Kindest Regards,
Dave.
Thanks so much for the forum and the info ;o)
P.S. by operating system, I meant firmware…
I don’t think the flash on the HS10 is brilliant (pun there!), you would be better using a flash gun on the hot shoe or a remote one trigered by the camera.
The firmware is at v1.04 and its very unlikely that Fuji will take that any further now the HS20 is out.
http://www.fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/s/finepix_hs10/fupd.html
You will likely get quicker cycle time using the external flash mode/hot shoe with mounted flash. In my case, I use a pc cord adapter in the hot shoe to allow my flash to be in a bracket, or held above my head for group shots.
I believe the double red-eye flash is a little silly, and slows the response a bit. I occasionally do newspaper work, and find indoor shooting to be a little tricky.
Hi
I love my HS10, but when I download to Picasa the photos download ok but the HD videos are not downloaded at all.
Any ideas?
Thanks for a great site, very useful.
Peter
I can only think that Picasa doesn’t handle HD videos.
You could try copying them directly from your memory card to the computer.
I have managed to download HD videos to picassa but it takes a very long time. You need to allow up to 10 minutes even more if the file size is large.
Try using Windows Explorer to see the size of the HD video files before you download them . You may be surprised to find some of them are over 1Gb in size !
Try using Windows explorer to copy /paste the video file to the desktop or which ever folder you wish . You could always create the preferred named folder afterwards and drag n drop the HD files after they have been transferred to your pc
I found that the videos do not transfer via the USB cable. I take the card out and out directly into PC card slot and the videos transfer and much faster too.
hi,
great forum.my question is does the hs10 charge via usb if you have rechargable battires in it?
many thanks
dan
Dan, as far as I can find, the batteries can only be charged via an independent charger, outside of the camera. It is also important to tell the camera that you are using rechargeables as the camera will draw less juice in that the AA rechargeables are 1.2 volt in lieu of 1.5 volt (learned from another member of this site)
Norman
PS See page 107 for setting battery type.
Norman
cheers norman for the info :)
Liking the site!
Interesting point regarding the rechargeable batteries and the drawing of less power from them. Do you know if the overall performance of the camera is affected when in rechargeable battery setting? More particularly, is the speed of saving images compromised to prolong battery life?
Thanks!
Hi,
Can someone please help me with my fujifilm cam. I can’t upload pictures in my facebook since the type of my pictures are not JPEG but its RAF, can someone help me on how to turn them off and get back to JPEG as size of the pictures carries out 15mb.. :(
mhel, go to page 106 of the Fujifilm HS10 manual available through this site. Just click on Fuji HS10 Manual underneath of the Fuji HS10 Forum. It will show you how to switch off of RAW and on to JPEG.
Norman
Hi Moose..
Im a beginner in photography. I bought my Fuji HS10 a month ago and I’m quite disappointed with its viewfinder. I can hardly see through it. Is there any solution to that? :)
Kimsarang – Yes, the default factory setting is quite dim… Go to the Set-Up Menu, Page 3.
At the top, LCD Brightness – change that to +3 or +4 – (use the ^/v arrows on the 4-way pad) and press OK to set it. You’ll soon see in use, if you want less or more.
Go back to Set-Up, Page 3. Change the EVF/LCD Mode from 30fps to 60fps. That doubles the Refresh Rate – and makes a big difference.
Don’t worry about the increased rate using more Battery – if you now turn OFF the next item down – EVF/LCD Auto-Switch – that maddening auto-changer between EVF and LCD – and power-hog – that will save more power than the faster refresh rate will use.
Now – very gently – a baby-quality soft cotton-bud works well – clean the viewfinder glass.
Lastly – check your personal eye-focus is correct in the viewfinder by holding the camera to eye at a slight angle and turning the diopter adjustment on the left of the EVF housing. Just one “click” off your eye’s focus can be critical.
Regards, Dave.
Hi Moose,
Great forum especially for beginners such as myself. My wife and I recently had a baby boy and I am really keen to get some great photos. I was wondering what settings you would recommend for baby photos particularly closeup with blurred backgrounds.
Any help would be much appreciated
thanks
Neil
Does the fugi finepix hs10 have the capabilities to create HDR photographs? I cannot find anything that explains how I do it, or even if I can?
Thanks!!!
Amanda, just about any digital camera is capable of HDR (High Dynamic Ratio), it is the software that begets these creative photos. Usually, three or more photos of the same subject are taken and then blended into the one photograph. I am reasonably certain that you can “Google” HDR and receive much information. Several people in our camera club do HDR and it is quite interesting. I usually shoot just plain old “bread and butter” photographs.
Norman
In P A S or M mode, you can use AE bracket – its the button on the top right of the camera. This takes 3 pics at different exposures – try it for HDR.
I use Combine ZM, a free program which combines the 3 images into one.
http://micropics.org.uk/
Or just search for other methods of doing it.
Amanda – The basic idea with HDR is to expand the Dynamic Range in the resulting image. Cameras don’t “see” with the ranges of “shades and depths” human eyes do, at any given camera setting – they see different parts of the human range at different camera settings. So HDR in effect attempts to combine several images of the same subject at different camera settings, to get a broader expanse of that range.
Unfortunately, the HS10 – like my old Fuji S2000HD – doesn’t use its full +/- 2EV (See Page 128, Glossary, in the Manual, re EV) – range for its AEB function.
This means that the “widest dynamic spacing” you will get using its AEB, will be -1EV /+/-0EV / +1EV…
While that will give you 3 images you can use in an HDR program, it isn’t much “effect range”. Some cameras (e.g. my Canon SX10) let you use their whole +/-2EV Exposure Compensation range.
The HS10 does indeed have a good +/-2EV Compensation range – but doesn’t use it all in the AEB function.
But, with a little “arranging”, you can “have it all” – and also have more than 3 images in the range for your HDR program – that gives it “more meat” to work with, and a better spread within the range. Using 5 images – as some DSLRs allow with their AEB – across a +/-2EV range will give your HDR program a lot more – and better graduated – information to work with.
You’ll need a steady tripod – and to set it up with the feet firmly placed – so it cannot move or vibrate. Mount your HS10 to it – being careful with its (Fuji says, “Occasional use…” …!) plastic tripod mount.
Compose the desired image at intended zoom. From then on, be sure not to bump the zoom. Select “Aperture Priority” for this purpose. This is Essential – as in A, P and S – the camera can change the Aperture – and in Manual you don’t have the Exposure Compensation.
Aperture Priority will “lock” the Aperture, because if the Aperture changes – so does the DOF – Depth of Field – thus defeating the HDR-range purpose.
The camera will change the Shutter Speed as you alter the Exposure Compensation.
With the Compensation centred – at +/-0 – press the Shutter button half-down until the AF-beep confirms focus. Don’t continue the shot. Instead – without bumping or moving the camera – press the Exposure Compensation button, and with the other hand turn the Command Dial to set -2EV on the left end of the bar.
As even pressing the Shutter down can move the camera slightly – gently set the 2-second Timer – then press the Shutter down. Even if you are moving the camera a tiny amount when re-setting the Exposure – going “hands-off” per shot seems to allow it to “settle” to the mount.
Next shot – adjust to -1EV and repeat the shooting method. At “Centre” – +/-0EV, the bar vanishes from the screen. It will return when you do the +1EV and +2EV shots.
You’ll now have 5 images evenly 1EV apart for your HDR. Obviously you can do more or fewer images – 3 at -2EV / +/-0EV / +2EV – will give a wide spread without much graduation. See what your HDR program works best with.
If you want to use “smaller steps” – you can do the images at say, 2/3EV apart.
You might want to try this setup in your backyard, to get used to it – it’s essential not to move the camera during the sequence – before using it on an important task…
Regards, Dave.
I have had my HS10 for about 15 months and it has been a great alternative to my DSLR. Yesterday I noticed that the appearance through the EVF is very ‘grayed’ out. The LCD screen still gives great color and sharpness. The pictures are fine when downloaded. I have adjusted the diopter and cleaned the lenses. I called Fuji and they said send it in for repair (no longer under warranty). Any suggestions to try other than mailing it back? Thanks.
Hi,
How to use Flash during movie recording in HS10?
I am Unable to use flash while recording movie in night..
Nitin, I have never heard of using flash for video. I don’t have much video experience, but wouldn’t an independent video light be better. How would flash work with video, as it is designed for momentary light as opposed to longer duration lighting?
Norman
Hi,
Firstly, thanks for taking the time to set this site up. Very kind of you!
Ok, I got a Fuji Finepix hs10 for Xmas and have been delighted with it up until the other day. I was out taking pictures and there were about 5-6 images on the card. I noticed that for some reason any subsequent pics were not being saved or somehow deleted. At first I thought I’d accidentally done it myself. Later, when I took some more pics the same thing happened and I knew it wasn’t down to me. I was getting no obvious error messages or battery failure or anything
After awhile I decided to format the card. That mean losing some pics but it has, thus far seemed to get things back to normal (touch wood!). I’m wondering whether the problem was with the camera or perhaps the card. I have some important pics to do soon and although I have a back up camera just in case, I’d rather use my hs 10 in confidence.
Any thoughts? Thanks!
Russell, my prime suspect would be the media card. I format my cards everytime I transfer all of the images on it (to my computer, iPad and a storage device). I have formatted my card in the camera itself, and also on my computer (PC Windows 7). I don’t know what card you are using, but there are memory card recommendations on this site. Sometimes cards fail for one reason or another, but when you examine the technology involved and the relatively low cost of a card it may be prudent to replace it.
Norman
Thanks for your reply. I was leaning to the card being the root cause too. And I’d much rather it was the card than the camera!
Cheers.
Hi! I problem with focus has popped up with my HS10. At the lens normal or 24mm position, auto focus does not work. This results in any photo taken in this position, out to about 50mm not being in focus. I often get a screen message as follows; !AF. Which is an autofocus error. Beyond approx. 50mm, for telephoto and macro pics it works fine. Has anyone run into this problem? I think I may have to send in for servicing but wanted to try for a fix here first. Thanks for any help you may have. Rick
Rick – I can only get mine to do that if there’s insufficient light – or in low-ish light at low ISO and/or Exposure Compensation settings.
You don’t say in which Mode this is happening. In Auto it should auto-adjust to at least get an AF response, other than in quite low light, though as the HS10 doesn’t handle Auto too well, the resulting image might be poor.
If you’re using Auto – change to Program, and using the top button of the 5 on the left of the LCD – ISO – select in the “single” ISO settings. That is – out of the AUTO-ISO ranges – if it was in one.
You can use the ” ” arrows on the 4-way pad instead of the Command Dial, when that’s easier for the way you’re holding the camera.
Select ISO 400. Now try the AF at 24mm. If you get the AF-beep – try the shot and have a look at the review. If too bright – go down to ISO 200. You’re at least now getting AF response at 24mm
If you “let the HS10 decide what to do” – it can make bad choices, or just “hunt or hesitate”. It’s at its best when you “tell it what to do, firmly”.
I don’t use Auto or Program – I use Shutter Priority for moving targets, and Aperture Priority for very slow or still targets. At more than 3/4 Zoom – a good rest – usually a tripod, and Manual Mode. Carry Mode for quick snaps is Shutter Priority – that’s where it’ll be if I turn mine on now.
However, if you are to use it that way, you do need to know the ‘Light Triangle’ – the relationship between ISO, Aperture and Shutter. There’s a good Guide, with diagrams and “plain English” explanations, at:
- www.cambridgeincolour.com/
On that page, go to the “Photo Essentials > Camera Exposure: Aperture, ISO and Shutter Speed” section.
With the HS10, unlike mid and lower range point-and-shoots – don’t be afraid to push the ISO up to get shutter speed up, or AF function working – noise is very low at ISO 100 and 200, low at 400 – and just starting to get intrusive at 800.
At any ISO you can also adjust-up the Exposure Compensation – the +/- button rear of the shutter button – which allows a good range of +/- 2EV.
Try the above, and if that’s not doing it, post back with details of Mode and Settings you are using.
Regards, Dave.
Hi! Thanks for the reply. I have sent the camera into Fuji Canada as that is where I live. I spoke to them about the problem as it was in every mode, even manual focus. I do appreciate your help but it did seem to be more of an issue than what you describe. Particularly, if it was a low light issue, than why would it focus when I zoomed when light collection should be less than at the shorter focal length? Thanks again, I will update here once I have been told by Fuji what the issue is.
Hi I have an AC-5v charger that I bought for my Finepix S9500 its output is DC5V2A can I use this in conjunction with the CP-04 coupler for my HS10 or will I need to buy a new charger
Steve
Steve, as long as you have the CP-04 your “charger?” should work. it is referred to as follows:
“Power Adapter & BatteryAC Power Adopter AC-5VXDC coupler CP-04.”
This was copied from the Fujifilm website. Look on “charger” to see if it has the proper nomenclature.
Steve, in as your s9500 uses 4 AA cells, I think what you have is an AC power adapter as opposed to a charger. I believe that the batteries for the s9500 and/or the HS10 must be charged externally.
Norman
Yes sorry it’s a power adapter
Sorry Norman, forgot to thank you
Is it possible to set anyhow easily and quickly manual focus at infinity? Or has it to be done only be reeling manual focus ring and finding the best focus according to LCD screen?
TA_Kosice – The HS10 doesn’t have an Infinity setting mode or button, as do some P&S cameras, such as Canon’s $106.00 A1200.
As the MF ring on the barrel does an electronic function, turning it either way forever wouldn’t find an infinity focus, such as you get at the ” ꝏ ” symbol with many DSLR lenses.
To set an “infinity” focus with the HS10 – “To focus at infinity, focus at a distant object” – to quote Fuji…. Manual, Page 52.
And yes – in a high-end bridge P&S that cost AUD$545.00 here in Sydney – for darkness, starlight, etc, shots – an infinity setting like some cameras at under 20% of the price – would have been nice…
Actually, the MF ring does work well for focusing – to use it, zoom to about the length needed, aim at the target, and press the AE/AF-Lock button (below the Red Video button) – and the camera will use the AF-function to get an “approximate” focus, and beep.
Then “rock” the MF ring a few mm either way, until you can “centre” at best focus, and shoot.
What would have been better to add to that, is Focus Bracketing – where the camera takes 3 shots at one shutter press, with 1 shot at the MF setting, 1 at a “further” distance, 1 at a “nearer” distance – with the further/nearer distances adjustable on preset. (My Canon SX10 – [and the later SX20 and SX30] – has this ability…)
Regards, Dave.
My boyfriend bought a finepix hs10 and while we were camping i was inspecting the lense and I noticed that one of the glass lenses inside had a start burst style crack. the camera was never impacted it was so well taken care of there are no scratches on the camera.
We brought it back to the store to have it sent back and get repaired on warranty and the store first claimed it was mushrooms/ fungus from going to tropical places (we live in Canada and haven’t traveled) now they say they found signs of impact and that the cost to repair is 0ver 200$
He called fuji canada and they are not telling us any details except that they did receive the camera at thier shop.
Are there any instances of the lenses cracking because of a defect ? He bought the camera when it first came out.
Any help of feed back would be apreciated
I have the same problem. The crack is created by the outer lens compressed against the inner lens. You can turn the barrel and see the lenses are physically contacting each other. I’ve just sent in mine’s no too long ago and they want to charge me $220 CDN. I’ll negotiate and see if it can at least be cheaper, because it’s the problem of their design and not me.
HS10 OWNERS!
Please, let me know if you have the same problem because I think they should responsible for a recall other than we pay for their stupid design.
I noticed this type of chip or spall in my lens several weeks ago. I did not drop the camera or bang it as well. It seems to have appeared overnight almost. I took it to the dealer and they sent it to FUji,and they are saying I damaged the camera and will not cover the lens. They want $250 CAD to fix it. Pretty much half the price of a new one. I am going to email Fuji and see what I can do. Terrible service. I might start a facebook page! Very dissapointed in what I thought was a reputable company.
Some time ago I noticed what I thought was dust on the inside of the front lens – having read this it seems that it’s marking caused by the element behind knocking against it. I’ve just had another look and can now see that the other element is similarly marked. What incredibly shoddy design! Very disappointing. I’m in Scotland/UK and have never had to contact Fuji before but will let you know what respose (if any!) I get. Will also contact the original seller – worth a shot!
Regards
Neil
Me too, same thing. I noticed back in September a cloudy fog in the center of my photographs and I thought it was the filter I used to protect the lense. Now I can see quite plainly the starburst crack. In super macro mode the camera even tries to focus on it. It clearly is interacting negatively with itself. I have done nothing, but be gentle with a very expensive(for me) toy. There needs to be a shim in place to limit the travel so the lenses do not collide. There is no way I can think of to crack an inner lense with out first damaging something else. The g forces from a shock does not play with me. It simply has to be a design flaw. They need to be overwhelmed with evidence to make them own up to poor engineering and offer a fix. If they replace the lense with the same part it will happen again. So there you are. A total waste of money on a tool I love that produced great results.
A note to myself and every one else who owns this camera. Put a rubber band a little more than 2mm wide or a little less than an 1/8 inch wide right behind the front of the plastic lense cowling on the barrel of the lense. It will save your lense. It will limit the travel slightly, but it acts as a cushion so the lenses do not crash. C’est la vie. It’s too late for me. So simple and cheap, too. Fuji is still not off of the hook, though.
Hello all… I guess this is part warning and part ‘I am such an idiot’…but aren’t we all sometimes. My story is short and painful. I received my HS10 yesterday, and had a fine session downtown, getting adjusted to its larger size (and capabilities) compared to my S5200. Today, I head out to do the same…leave the office and hit the streets. As did my new camera. The strap, with the flimsy little sleave-lettes, had let go, and the camera hit the pavement from waist height. Yes, expletives occurred. Thankfully the camera was off and the lens un-extended. Now, I’ve had wonderful experience with the durability and build of Fuji cameras…my S5200 survived four Bonnaroo music festivals and heavy travel/camping treatment. And, well…I wasn’t disappointed…. The camera seems fine. And that’s where my post becomes a question. It ‘seems’ fine. Are there any aspects of camera function that I should check? Just because it operates and appears scratch and scuff free is no guarantee. Short of a trip to the Fuji shop, are there any tests or trials I can do to see if my camera is the sweet thing it was only hours ago?
So yes…a warning…everybody check your camera straps…I’ll be doing something similar to what I did with my other, which I think was a simple staple through the fabric after it loops back through.
And also, maybe part of me just wanted to share my near-heartbreaking experience with others that would understand.
Wonderful site by the way, and a wealth of knowledge from talented and patient people.
Greg, that was a terrible experience. I did drop a film camera once and was fortunate that the only damage was to the pentaprism. Lucky again, because it was my Miranda with interchangeable pentaprisms. No I buy the Square Trade extended warranty with the accidental damage clause. When you have that, naturally nothing ever breaks. http://www.squaretrade.com
Greg, chances are if it seems to be operating normally, it is okay. If you encounter problems you can then contact Fuji. Good luck.
Norman
hi,Some of my photos were on horizontal shot w/c i turned clockwise and saved when i have it edited on my computer. but once i uploaded the photos on facebook,it went back to horizontal instead of vertical since i already have them turned and save to vertical.. what happen? thanks in advance
Have the new camera for about a month now.
have 2 warning icons thats has not been explained in the maual: 1) the yellow camera with exclamation mark and 2) the red thermometer. Any help please how to sort it thanks
Jay, see page 124 of the online manual accessed via this site. The camera with exclamation mark means slow shutter speed; use flash, tripod or adjust ISO. The thermometer you are referring to is the batteries getting low signal.
Norman
Hi Jay + Norman
Norman has answered your first icon, but I just wanted to point out that if you are getting what looks like a red thermometer with a red exclamation mark, then it is not the battery indicator but a temperature warning. The icon is not shown in the manual or even mentioned, but if you look at the manual for the HS20exr (page 109, I think) you will see what the icon looks like.
If you are getting this icon, make sure you switch the camera off straight away and allow it to cool. Expensive damage can occur if you don’t.
using hs 10
problem 1 is the shutter speed is not goin more thn 4 second, fuji said its 30 seconds, n m not able to set that.
problem 2 is shutter lag, i hav to take a pic of my friend jumping in pool wearing suit, but the shutter lag is too annoying, he can do it just once…how to do that :(
Hi Shishir,
I think the HS10 shutter speed will only go above 4s in Manual mode. It also seems to be limited by the ISO setting. Mine will go up to 30s at ISO100, but is limited to 15s at ISO200, 8s at ISO400, etc.
As for your action shot, perhaps using one of the continuous shooting modes (either Top 7 or Best Frame Capture) would avoid the shutter lag problem? You should find a lot more useful tips for action shots if you search through the rest of the forum – see David Doak’s post of January 19th, for example.
Regards,
Leith
I am working really hard to try and like my HS10, but it’s a struggle.
Latest trial is trying to get movies off the camera. Computer system is XPsp3. The camera only appears as an imaging device, not as an external drive. This is the first time this has happened to me in 10 years of digital photography. Is there any way of forcing the camera to act like an external drive, because my PC locks when I try to move a 3GB movie to the computer.
Simon – Sounds as if you’re connecting the camera to the computer. Which particularly with large files – such as your 3GB Video – will be very slow.
For a few dollars you can buy a Card Reader, which not only will be much faster, but with Win XP-SP3 you won’t need to “connect” to an installed program (for the camera) on the PC.
Take the card from the camera, and insert it in the Reader. (If you buy a low-cost reader – ensure it can read SDHC Cards – SD Cards and Readers stop at 2GB.)
Once the Card is in the Reader, plug the Reader into a USB port.
If you open My Computer on the deskop, the Reader will appear at the lower right, in “Devices With Removable Storage”. Just click it open, and drag-copy to desktop – or into a prepared new directory.
Before you remove the Reader – make a Copy of your downloaded Images and Videos – and put that somewhere safe as a Backup.
Then, do a ‘Safely Remove’, of the Reader.
- I think that’s right – I haven’t used Windows for years, other than at friends’ places. I use Linux – and so have never connected a camera to the PC – camera makers seem to enjoy ignoring the world’s second most popular operating system, so don’t have camera programs for Linux on their CDs…
Regards, Dave.
I have used my HS-10 to make movies (HD 1280) during a boat trip.
Now I want to convert the files to mpeg2 so I can make a dvd.
Herefore I use the program Avidemux (advised by David Doak).
But when playing the converted file, at half time the sound disappeared.
Does someone has the same problems?
Jan – Avidemux can do that if you’re using Single Pass conversions, unless the video is quite short.
You’ll get better quality conversions if you use the 2-Pass mode.
If you select the “DVD(lavc)” converter, click on the next tab just under that, “Configure”. In the box that appears, at the top change “Constant Quantiser” to “2-Pass Average Bitrate”.
Avidemux will then go through the video once, to map it – find out where the many-colours / fast actions are, for higher bitrates, and where the sea / sky / fields no or slow actions are, for lower bitrates.
It also ‘sees’ where the control frames are, and where the audio relates to those.
It saves the data to a text-file as it maps on the first pass. On Pass-2 – it can refer to that file, and ‘know what’s ahead’ as it works.
Using Single Pass – all the program can be doing is “guessing” what might be ahead.
Regards, Dave.
Thanks david for the tip.
I have tried the 2 pass conversion, but unfortuntlately I still have sound only the first half of the video. Strange!
I use version 2.5.4 of avidemux.
I have been searching on internet and have found WinAVI video converter.
Tested conversion yesterday and it works ok for my HS10 video files.
It can convert to mpeg2 and also directly to a dvd.
So I have a solution and I will use this software.
Is there anyway to attach a right angle viewfinder on the hs 10 and if so what profucts are out there that I would need ???
Any info would be appreciated…
Anthony
Anthony, this right angls viefinder fits Fujifilm cameras with a 22mm eyepiece along with other cameras. It also features 1X or 2X magnification. You can contact the manufacturer to see if it will fit the HS10. Also, shop the price on eBay.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SEAGULL-1x-2x-right-angle-view-machine-ANGLE-FINDER-/330285152586?pt=US_Viewfinders_Eyecups&hash=item4ce687794a
Norman
Hi Moose
I was wondering if it is possible to use a(not exactly sure but think it’s called) handheld flash with remote on the HS10?
If you can which is best.
Marsha, just about any “slave” flash will work in conjunction with the built in flash on the HS10. I bought one on eBay for $10.00 and it works fine with any of my cameras that have and/or use a flash. Experimenting will help you to determine where to place the “slave” flash, keeping in mind it must be within a reasonable distance from the built in flash to receive and act upon the light signal. Mine came with a camera mounting bracket that attaches to the tripod socket on the camera. But, caution and common sense does not allow me to attach anything to the poorly designed and engineered plastic junk tripod socket on my HS10. I usually mount my “slave” flash on a tripod. Hope that this helps. If not Marsha, ask another question. We are all here for one another.
Norman
Thanks so very much Norman. I will give this some reseach.
What about wireless Flash??? Has anyone tried that with the HS10?
Hi -just purchased the HS10 -I can’t work out how to save the 16.9 wider angle setting as a specific setting -I don’t want the main Auto camera setting to have that but the 4.3 setting -any ideas? I cant seem to work out how to save even using the custom switch! Thanks
Adi – You just need to do it as a Saved Custom setup. I do it to be able to switch to 3:2 instantly – that’s the same AR (aspect ratio) as DSLRs, so can be used to mimic DSLR composition styles.
Which Camera Mode you want your 16:9 Custom as, is up to you, of course. You sound as if you use Auto, which isn’t the HS10′s best mode, as the camera guesses at White Balance and ISO, and often is wrong.
If you want a mode that’s very similar to Auto, but lets you choose some settings, use Program. Turn the Mode Dial to Program. Select 16:9 under Image Size in the Shooting Menu. Now hold the top button on left back of the camera, ISO, and select 100. Go to the bottom button, White Balance, and select Fine.
That gives you ‘general basic’ settings. At this point – turn the Mode Dial to C – Custom, now open the Shooting Menu to Page 4 – Custom Set. You’ll need to select ‘Set OK’ with the ^ Arrow on the 4-way pad. Then press the Menu-OK button to Save the setup.
Now Auto and the other Modes will return to default in 4:3 AR.
When you go to Custom Mode – you will see in the EVF or LCD that you’re in 16:9 AR. You’ll have ISO 100, best quality image. White Balance will be at Fine – outdoors, sunny or bright-cloudy.
Being in Program Mode – with ISO and WB ‘set’ by you – the camera will choose the correct Shutter speed when you press the shutter button half-down to Focus.
If there’s not enough light for those settings – the camera will say so. On a duller day, use the WB button and select Shade. (Indoors select one of the lighting types there.) Try a shot – and if still not enough like – top button, ISO – raise to 200 or 400 if needed. (At ISO 800 and above you’ll start getting noise/grain in JPEGs.)
You “can”, when doing your Custom setup – leave the White Balance at Auto, which isn’t ideal. You can also – by clicking along to the right while setting the ISO – find Range settings for Auto 400 / 800 / 1600 / 3200.
While not the best (the camera tends to go higher ISO than needed) – you could select Auto-400. The camera will then choose between ISO 100 – 200 – 400 for what it “thinks” is best.
If you Custom Set Program at Auto White Balance and Auto-400 ISO – the camera will Focus and Shoot under most conditions – other than low-lighting where other modes will work better – or, at all.
You might try those both on Auto to start with – when you select Custom Mode with those, the camera will under most conditions “get shots” – but results might not be too good.
Make a Note you can take with you of where I mention choosing White Balance and ISO yourself.
While in Custom with Auto/Auto settings – you can use the ISO and WB buttons to manually select say, ISO 100 and Shade – to get better images. That won’t “change” the Saved Custom Setup.
If you tried some settings and weren’t too happy with them so far – and an urgent shot turns up – no need to reset Custom – just turn the Mode Dial either way to the next click – then back to Custom – and those “usable” Auto/Auto settings will be back to get that shot with.
Regards, Dave.
Thanks Dave -much appreciated -that’s brilliant !
I have only had my HS10 camera for about 9 months and am planning a trip to Las Vegas. We plan on doing alot of sight seeing, Hoover Dam, Grand Canyon, Red Rock Canyon and of course the Vegas Strip. I would like to know if I should invest in some filters for my camera to get the best landscape photos as well as the bright night lights? Also, any advice on which setting(s) takes the best I guess thats a good thing though. I would appreciate any feedback.
Thanks!
Hi Angie,
since no one gave you any feedback till now, I can start with one small tip: polarized filter (cpl)! Take a look at Google and you will it interesting. And about the settings, I’m still struggling myself. Let’s see if others can give more advices.
Have a nice trip!
Cris
Thanks Cris, I appreciate you taking the time to reply to me.
Hi,
I am struggling with low light pictures. Recently, at a friends party in a bar I was moving from outdoors (light) to indoors, (low light) taking pics. The auto modes worked perfectly outdoors, but indoors all the pictures were blurry on all settings, especially of people dancing. Is there a setting which allows me to do a reasonable job of both without having to sit and perform lengthy resets of the camera?
No external flash was used and sometimes the subject was at maximum zoom because they were across the room.
Help much appreciated as I have tried but not solved the issue.
Rem
Rem, sounds as if you are moving (shaking) the camera trying to photograph moving dancers with the lens zoomed out to full telephoto. What works outdoors in full light will not always work when you move indoors. Trying to do both using the same settings will be difficult. You might try a neutral density filter when shooting outdoors and removing it when photographing indoors in low light situations, but that may not work either. If you don’t mind using the flash, and perhaps an inexpensive slave flash indoors it would help. Automatic exposures can only cover so much, and then we must compensate by adjusting.
Norman
Hi to all,
When I look in Picassa at my photo’s and ask for the information, I see that the focuslength is not 720 mm but 763 mm. Do I have a better camera? (LOL).
But, how come?
Regards,
Emiel
Emiel – Either you or the site you uploaded to cropped or clipped the image…
Using a Copy of a std 3648 x 2736 image – open it in a graphics editor – select about the ‘middle half’ – crop that out, and save the result. Now look at the focal length stated in the Exif…
Regards, Dave.
Hi David,
Thanks, I will try.
Regards,
Emiel
Hi Moose, thank you so very much for taking the time and trouble to help other HS10 users. My question – is there a remote trigger/shutter release I can use with HS10? I used this function on Canon 20D etc and found it invaluable, the timer is awkward and does not invite spontaneity.
Respect to you sir.
Karl Weaver
Karl, this question has been posed numerous times. As of now there is no factory or aftermarket device for the HS10. You may be able to jerry-rig one if you are mechanically/electronically clever.
Norman
I just added a Generic Shutter Release from Photosolve to my HS-10
and it works just fine,
“GENERICSR
Provides a shutter release for nearly ANY still camera. Comes with a Tripod screw and adjustable shutter release mounting arm. This bracket DOES include a 20 inch shutter release cable.”
It’s a bit pricey at $45.95 + shipping, but if your like me and would like to be able to use something besides the “timer” than it’s great !
I was reading some old posts here and found a question never answered:
“Should the manual focus ring rotate continually (without reaching a stop) or is mine faulty?”
Thanks,
Cris
Cris – The MF overrides the electronic focus function manually. That is – it isn’t a direct mechanical connection as in a DSLR lens – particularly nothing like the creamy-smooth “long-throw” focus-rings on the film-era Takumar-etc, lenses.
So with the HS10′s MF – if it isn’t “somewhere near” actual focus – you’ll wind-away ‘forever’ with not a lot happening.
To get the focus “somewhere near” – with MF selected – zoom to about where your target will be in-frame. Press the AE/AF-Lock button – the one below the Red video-button. The camera will use the AF function to get an approximate focus. Reset your zoom and framing as needed, and press the button again. When the camera ‘focus-beeps’ – then use the MF ring.
If you’re supporting the camera firmly – your left thumb will be near the focus-ring. Use the thumb to push the MF ring up and down – a small amount of ring movement will take the focus ‘either-side’ of centred-sharp. With a little practise, “centring” the focus is quick and accurate.
You can turn Off that “magnified rectangle” using the MF ring defaults to – in the Menu it’s called ‘Focus Check’. That’s on Set-Up Menu, Page 4, after RAW. In some situations, particularly near objects, MF is easier to use, particularly hand-held, with it Off.
Regards, Dave.
Thank’s Dave,
I already got more or less the particularities of the manual focus. The magnified center area is always off. I only use it on tripod. I was just curious about that ring that turns without stopping. But now my questions are answered. Thanks again.
Regards,
Cris
Hi everybody,
sometimes I have this weird idea crossing my mind and I can’t find an answer. Google searches are unfruitful. So, I have this cute device (HS10), with a “big” screen, nice memory card capacity and even a speaker – could I use it to watch movies??? I know I need to convert it to a specific format to watch it with the camera, but how? The nearest I got doing a google search was here: http://www.ehow.com/how_4810874_digital-camera-as-movie-player.html
But it became a dead end to me. I would appreciate any ideas.
Thanks,
Cris
Cris – The HS10 video is H264 inside Apple’s proprietary MOV container – often called H264/MOV.
H264 is a fairly recent subset of the MPEG4 Standard – MPEG4-AVC (Advanced Video Codec.)
So you’d first need a program to convert your movie to H264 at about the same bitrate as the camera creates it – converting an MPEG2 DVD movie to H264 directly, might leave you with a bitrate far higher than the HS10 can handle.
The free Avidemux will convert MPEG2 and other video to H264.
What it can’t do is save the conversion to MOV container with the “Filename.mov” extension, as MOV is Apple’s proprietary product. So you’d need a suitable version of QuickTime to do that.
There’s then no guarantee that the HS10 would play the resulting file, anyway, if it hadn’t “made it, itself.”
When you can buy Chinese 4-5″ LCD battery-powered players that will handle all of the popular video formats, for $50-60.00 or so – I do wonder why you’d want to do a lot of converting time just to play videos on the HS10′s 3″ LCD….
Regards, Dave.
Hi Dave,
like I said, weird idea. I just wanted to know if it’s possible. Well, maybe it is and maybe I’ll try one of these days. Of course a portable all-in-one player is much more practical. I just asked to get this out of my mind, hehe, in case there is no easy way to do it. And that seems to be the case. Thanks for the video explanation!
Bye,
Cris
Hey i got an hs 10 about a month ago and i have been shooting with it almost nonstop since. Iv been a little disappointed by the fact that the pictures are focused throughout the image. I always shoot at the quickest F-stop possible to get a blurred foreground and background. and the camera just wont do that if the subject doesnt take up over 2/3s the viewfinder. its just really frustrating to shoot and have everything in focouse instead of just the subject. please tell me the best settings to elliminate this. thanx
Hi Horatio,
I’m just a beginner at this, so apologies if I’ve misunderstood the question, but it sounds like you want to change the mode for the focusing area. You can do this by holding down the AF button (middle button on the left) and turning the command dial.
I guess you currently have AF mode set to ‘MULTI’, in which the camera automatically picks a focus point after analysing the scene. For your purposes, you might find the ‘CENTER’ mode more useful (camera focuses on the centre of the scene: with your subject in the centre of the viewfinder, you can half-press the shutter to lock the focus then, if necessary, move the camera to get the subject where you want it in the frame.
Alternatively, when using a tripod, you can set the AF mode to ‘AREA’, which allows you to move the focus point around the view finder using the selector up/down/left/right controls. There is also a ‘TRACKING’ mode that will attempt to recognise an object and keep it in focus as it moves. I’m not sure how well this last mode works, though.
Note that, in addition to changing the focusing area mode, you can use the AE button in similar fashion to change the metering area mode (for example: ‘SPOT’ metering mode uses the centre of the scene to set the exposure).
If you are having trouble focusing on a subject that is less than 5 metres away, try using Macro mode (using selector left to turn Macro mode on or off). When Macro mode is turned on, the AF mode is always set to ‘CENTER’.
One other option is to use manual focusing. You can change between auto and manual focus mode using the AF C-S-M button. In manual focus mode, the camera will attempt to auto-focus if you press the AE/AF Lock button. You can then use the focusing ring to manually fine-tune the focus.
Hope that helps. I’ve learned a lot from reading through the other posts on this page, particularly the very helpful tips from David Doak (many thanks Dave, by the way).
Regards,
Leith
Hi Moose, I’ve had my HS10 for around 8 weeks now, and overall I’m delighted with it and getting some great photos. One area I’m having problems is getting silky smooth water shots with slow shutter speeds, I can’t seem to get a high enough F stop to compensate for the slow shutter speed and my photos are coming out way too over exposed. I never had a problem with the Fujifinepix S5700. Any advice greatly appreciated, thanks.
Hi Lee,
first of all: is the ISO set to 100?
In some cases a Neutral Density filter is needed, that is simply a filter that darkens the image preserving the colors. They come in a few different graduations.
Actually I never had/saw such a filter. I use SUNGLASSES! I had an old pair, removed the lenses and simply hold them in front of the camera. I made some cool pics from a waterfall using that trick.
Lee – If you have a Polariser (58mm for the HS10) – you can use that, turned away from the polarising angle – as a sort-of about 1-stop ND filter. If you’re “close” to the effect desired on small f-stop, that might just be enough to do it.
However, as Cris says, to set up and do it properly, particularly on bright days, you’ll need a real ND filter or two.
Cheap ND filters will lower image quality – including colour.
Hoya is a good brand, at reasonable prices. At 58mm, prices here in Sydney are $55.00 for their standard single-coated, and $74.00 for HMC – Hoya Multi Coated. (Multi-Coated has less internal light reflections, so somewhat better image quality, though on small-sensor P&S cameras, that might not be noticeable.)
You can “stack” ND-filters. So you could buy a 2x (ND2) and a 4x – and with those, have functions at 2x, 4x, and stacked, 6x.
Kenko also make very good ND filters, but prices tend to be higher than Hoya.
There are also “fader” ND filters – adjustable from 1 to 4 or more stops. However, when I see these discussed on camera forums, reports are that results aren’t at all good from these.
Better results are obtained with single filters at different stop rates, or by stacking no more than 2.
Regards, Dave.
Hi,
Perhaps I missed it, but is there something like a CHDK, or perhaps in better words, a FHDK for the HS 10?
Regards,
Emiel
Im sorry to inform you, but… no, there isn’t….
Thanks Cris.
Emiel
Does anybody know of any alternative firmware releases for the Fuji HS10, I find the video mode very limiting with the lack of manual focus and exposure controls
Dylan – Some of us begged Fuji for a firmware update to do either or both of those all year… Seems Fuji regards “Video” in an AUD$545.00 Bridge Camera as “occasional use” only. That’s what they do actually say about the weak plastic tripod mount socket…
When a camera has 30x / 720mm of zoom, and at full zoom is of course very sensitive to movement – saying that they regard tripod use as for occasional times – is at the very least an indication that nobody at Fuji did any actual “average user” tests with it.
At the price – not having controllable video brightness and focus is absurd. My older Canon SX10 has manual video brightness and manual focus… The first is good when panning between light and shade, and on dull days – the second is when using a tripod and fixed distance – party, interview, so on – the focus can be ‘nailed’ exactly.
The SX10 video might only be 640 x 480 – but it’s H264/MOV, and quite good quality. Oh – and it has a very solid metal tripod mount socket. And the 2-speed power zoom is actually usable during video-ing… The HS10′s fantastic “Jerk-O-Matic”, is not.
But it’s all fixed in the HS20? No – every HS10 fault except the flash overlapping the barrel, and the lack of an external RAW selector button, seems to be carried over. And the 16Mpix/8Mpix EXR complications added…
If Fuji really intends to soon be the No.3 Camera Maker in the World – they’d better start listening to users and initiating a lot of improvements quickly.
- If you really need good Std HD (1280 x 720) in a Bridge Zoom – with brightness control, manual focus, usable while video-ing zoom – AND a metal tripod mount – you might find a near-new Canon SX30 around… Video, they do very well – still image is JPEG only, no RAW, and “fast” continuous is only 1.3fps… Some seem to be selling them / trading them, because of the so-so still image quality.
Regards, Dave.
Hi,
If I playback the pictures on a TV, I also get also all the info about the picture. Is there a way to watch the pictures without the info?
Thanks on forehand.
Regards,
Emiel
Emiel,
try pressing the “Disp/Back” button twice.
Good luck,
Cris
Hi Cris,
Thanks very much!
Regards,
Emiel
Hi Moose,
Do you know any way to disable both the EVF and LCD?
Some background: I’ve got a remote timer & tripod, and want to take time lapse over as long a period as possible without changing batteries. I’ve had to disable the auto-turn off in order for the remote timer to work, but as a result the evf bleeds electricity, draining the batteries very quickly.
Really appreciate it if you know any fixes!
Thanks
Sisi
I was just experimenting and it seems that plugging a loose cable into the A/V Out port shuts down EVF&LCD while still allowing the camera to take photos. Now to see whether/how much this helps the battery life….
Hi all. I am finding that when I take photos using the HS10 on 24mm more often than not the outer edges of the photo are not in focus. can anyone help please?
Ian – I’m assuming that you’re referring to JPEGs in ‘Fine’ mode. The HS10 doesn’t have a ’3-Star’ or ‘Superfine’ JPEG low-artifacting low-compression Save mode. So under “awkward” conditions Saves can be a bit “off”. Fuji might assume that under those conditions, users will shoot RAW. (or RAW+JPEG)
Early HS10s had some lens distortion and edge problems at the Widest end, prior to Firmware Version 1.02 or later. Check your Firmware Version by holding the “DISP” button as you turn the camera on.
If that’s not the problem, and you need to do JPEGs, you might try going to 24mm – then just rotate the zoom VERY slightly – that “slack” before the barrel starts to move outward. That corrects the slight ‘edge distortion’ mine has at the wide end with JPEGs. Although the barrel hasn’t moved, the camera might “see” that as 25-26mm, for its in-camera correction from RAW to JPEG.
(All P&S cameras actually shoot in RAW – and with most the conversion to JPEG is automatic. Some, like the HS10 and a few others, will let you save the RAW version instead, or as well as a camera-converted JPEG.)
With scenes, or other non-moving targets where I want to get as wide as possible, I use tripod, and the Timer-delay to reduce hand and shutter-pressing movement/vibrations. I use RAW+JPEG – and later, glancing at the JPEGs – even where edges are a bit “off” – indicates where I “got the shot” – so the RAW is worth processing.
Once the RAW is opened in post-processing – it shows that the image covers slightly more area than the JPEGs – saved directly as a TIFF – the TIFF size is 3664 x 2742. So when we shoot JPEG – in the camera’s auto-conversion from RAW to JPEG – it’s cropping just a bit to get the usual JPEG 3648 x 2736.
With RAW – as that’s not an image-file, it’s a data-file – you get exactly “what the camera saw” at the time of the shot – no corrections. So at the HS10 Wide-End – there’s a bit of lens distortion to correct for, then the usual processing – and finish with just a bit of – usually USM – Sharpen.
Save to TIFF – as the TIFF original – and use Copies of that for JPEG conversion – and there’s “enough meat” in the TIFF to crop slightly – just a few pixels – and still have the “width” you were seeing in the EVF/LCD. That can take care of the very narrow band that’s a little “off” at the edges.
Regards, Dave.
Dave,
Many thanks I will try out your suggestions and let you know how I got on.
Regards.
Ian
Hiya, can you tell me if i fit an ir filter to my hs10 and used a led ir illuminater, would i be able to take pictures in complete darkness with no flash. Thanks Barry
I guess you would not need the IR filter in this case. The IR filter blocks all light but IR and if it is dark and you will illuminate with an IR light you don’t have to block other light sources. The problem is inside the camera is a “hot mirror” that blocks part of the IR light, reducing the efficiency of your IR illuminater.
The sony series that had the “nightshot” effect had a switch to remove momentarily this hot mirror and had IR LEDs to iluminate the subject.
Hi everybody,
how about collecting a few suggestions from HS10 users and send them to FUJI with things that could be implemented in the next firmware? I don’t know exactly how to do that and to whom send it but I think it’s a good idea. What your opinion about this?
One of my ideas is to be able to choose how the zoom scale appears on the LCD screen. Instead of only show it like 1x, 3x etc I would like to see it in “mm”, like the scale printed on the lens barrel.
Well, let’s hear your opinions!
Cris
Hi Cris
Nice idea but I don’t think it will happen. Fuji anounced some time ago that it had no plans for any future firmware updates for the HS10.
With the release of the HS20, I expect their efforts will be in that direction.
P.S I hope Fuji makes me eat my words and prove me wrong.
Oh I miss the CHDK from my old cannon. Something like that would be great on the HS10…
Peter,
if it would be the case that Fuji makes you eat your words, more sound option would be great. The possibility to turn just the focus blip off and more different shutter sounds, including an dslr “clack” sound.
Well, if we send Fuji some requests maybe they release another firmware update.
Reguards,
Cris
Hi,
I have a repair question regarding the Hs10. I’ve owned this camera since the first week it was released and love it! Unfortunately my memory card is stuck inside the camera. I am able to pop it half way out, but I can go NO further. Does anyone have an idea how to fix this problem, besides sending it to Fuji?
Thanks,
Susan
Hi Susan
Well you have a strange one there. I’ve never heard of anyone having a memory card stuck even if it’s been put in the wrong way. The slot is a slim rectangular tube and there is nothing for the card to get stuck on. When you say you can pop it out half way, I assume you mean after pressing it in first and letting the spring pop it out. Half way is as far as it will go, then it needs to be pulled out. Have you tried pressing it in as far as it will go and releasing several times in succession?
I’ve just trawled the web and come up with one instance of a memory card sticking. This was due to the little plastic slider on the side of the memory card which is used for anti-erasure having broken and got wedged in the slot. However, the owner was still able to pull the card out with a little force. The card was then useless of course.
Other than that, I’m stumped.
Anyone else able to help Sue out??
Susan, if you press the card in and release it, it will pop the card out somewhat as you related. You might try pulling it out gently but firmly using a small pair (mini) of pliars. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this, perhaps a camera store person may help. Please let us know if you have any success. Good luck.
Norman
Peter & Norman,
Thank you very much for your quick responses. I have now removed the card pulling it out with muscle power…thanks Norman for giving me the confidence to just ‘go for it’. I put another memory card in the camera and it ejected normally. I did blow in it and tried to shake loose anything that could have been jamming it. I will not be using my old memory card again. I love this camera and own a Sony dh1758 teleconverter lens to go with it…The two together are my pride and joy. Thank you…Thank you!!!
ok, I am at page 25 in the manual. I fail to see any benefit in using SP1 over SP2 – Any clarification would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks – Nettleton
Nettleton,
the way I understand SP1 and SP2 both have the same options. So you can let two modes preset, so its easier to switch between both.
Cris
ahh, and welcome to the forum!
It’s really a good source of information!
Hi
As Cris rightly says, you have 2 modes for 2 instantly available options. Which options you choose depends upon the type of photography you do most. Personally, I have SP1 set to ‘Landscape’ and SP2 set to ‘Natural’. These are 2 options which crop up most in the photography I do and are useful if I need to take a few quick shots without having to fiddle with other settings.
I chose landscape as 1 of my options because the SRauto mode does not always choose the right mode for the scene I am looking at. In fact I find SRauto to be very hit and miss. Hope this helps.
Thank you Cris and Peter for your very quick responses. I’ll have to give my use of these two options some thought!
Regards – Nettleton
Took receipt of my new HS10 yesterday. Been using a s6500fd for 3 years and loved it. So pleased to have found this site SO quickly- am sure my learning curve will be shortened due to the user knowledge posted! Look forward to checking it out every day. Regards Nettleton
I’ve just bought an HS10 and to my shame I’ve failed at the first test when starting the basic setup. How in heaven’s name do you change the date and time once it’s been set up wrongly? Answers please that a beginner understands.
Hi, the easiest way to explain is:
press menu, left, down, right, right
Got it? If not I can explain it again/different
Good luck,
Cris
Cris, thank you. AOK.
Hi
I have just bought HS10 a month back and I am experimenting with the best settings for it. I am not very expert photographer but I am on learning curve and bought HS10 precisely to learn and then graduate to DSLR
I just wanted some help on the best setting for HS10 for indoor & outdoor settings.
This is what I am using at the moment for indoors. Not shot much outdoors so still to experiment
Mode : Program AE
ISO : 400 Auto
Image Size : 4:3
Image Quality : Fine
DR : 100
Finepix Color : Chrome
WB : Auto
Color : Mid
Tone : STD
Sharpness: Hard
Face Detection : Off
Flash : 0
EV from -2/3 to -1 for indoors
Focussing : Continuous
AF Mode : Center
AE : Multi
Can someone advise me if this is OK or I can do better with the settings.
Also, the same settings at raw are not working good as the images are coming wahsed in red hues
Thanks
Hi
Does anybody know what the “flash guide number” is for the hs10
Regards
Rob
Rob, sorry, but this is the only info I could garner:
ISO 800: Wide: Approx. 30cm – 8.0m / 1ft. – 26.2ft.;Telephoto: Approx. 2.0m – 4.0m / 6.5ft. – 13.1ft.
Norman
Your advice on setting the HS10 to the RAW setting was so helpful as after an hour of trying I was getting very frustrated. How can I use the custom setting to quickly switch RAW on and off?
Also I have been using my Fuji Finepix S7000 for macro photography since 2005 to photograph vintage watches I sell and have been looking for a long time for a more modern bridge to match the quality I get from the S7000 but without success. The HS10 is not up to standard, nor is the Canon S90 I own but maybe I am not setting it up the HS10 properly. The basic set up I am competent to do but maybe some tweaking of the settings would help?
I have been using my HS10 as a stop-gap camera untill my budget can afford a higher-end professional system. With my former camera, I was able to set up an umbrella strobe and slave off of the camera flash. Unfortunately, the HS10 only seems to have “red eye” mode (quick multiple flash) which makes it impossible to use multiple strobes. Is the only way to bypass the “red-eye” mode to put a pc cord adapter in the hotshoe slot atop the camera? To buy an additional strobe to fire off the hotshoe slot? I do understand “off camera” mode has to be selected on the menu. Thanks!
Hi Jim,
if you set the HS10 to use external flash and pop-up the built-in flash, it will give only one light pulse that can trigger other flash units. See page
89 in the manual.
I made a curious gadget connecting an infra-red receiver LED to the contacts of an external flash and use the mode I described to fire it, wireless.
I don’t know if I did understand your question, and sorry for my bad English. I hope this help you.
bye,
Cris
Thanks Chris!
Your suggestion about the external flash mode was right on the money! The manual made it clear that the pop-up flash could be used to trigger other strobes. In the past, with other cameras, I would use a stand-mounted umbrella strobe with a slave sensor; the built-in camera flash would then provide fill-in lighting for the umbrella strobe. I find the “red-eye” multiple flash mode to be of little value – and sometimes cause unwanted delay with candid picture situations. Your English is fine my friend! What would really be neat if Fuji could come up with a way to remote-trigger the HS-10 like other high-end professional equipment.
I have a HS10 for around a year now, i notice now that when i zoom out the shutter clunks and the picture is off centre and the picture is unfocused but only if i move the camera , if i keep it still between picture it is fine.Well i sent it back to Fujifilm and just receive it back. It is still doing the same thing ever after they recalibrated it . Anyone else had this problem or is it now the norm wirh this camera.
I noticed this once and I believe its the stabilization device that somehow got stuck. But lets wait for better answers.
Thanks Chris , You hit the nail on the head, it is the stabilization device , i turned it off and it stopped doing it, I contacted Fujifilm and explained the fault again, so it’s back to the shop to be repaired again.
I’m glad I could help. Tell us if Fuji fixed it properly, when you get your camera back. And good luck!
Well Cris got the camera back seemd the service department at fuijifilm gave me a new lens , why i dont know and didnt fix the stabilization part it, so for the 3rd time it’s back to the shop again.
Michael,
sorry to hear about that. Must be annoying and frustrating.
They should give you a new one!
Well Cris, the camera had Fujifilm beat, so they have offered me a new one,I should receive it next week.
It’s weird Michael, I had similar problems this weekend when taking shots in a pier. I had to remake a couple of pictures because they got off centre and made that clunk where the camera almost jumps off my hands. The battery was low and I hope it’s related, cause it’s not easy to send it to Fuji from where I live.
Good luck to us.
Cris ,one will hope it was not what happen to my camera because Fuji did not know why and what was the problum , the only way i knew it was the stabilization was i turned it off then used it and back on and the clunk was their.Hope you can sort it out .
When does one use the Focus Ring? Twisting it does not seem to make any difference through the view finder.
I’m relatively new to photography and the HS10 seemed to suit my purposes, but I am having problems with sharp focus.
Richard, the setting must be on “manual” and from my experience there is a great deal of rotation involved. I usually use the auto-focus feature unless I want to increase the bokeh (blurred background) effect. Hope that this helps.
Norman
Richard – The HS10 has the best MF of any P&S I’ve owned or otherwise used. It’s unusual, in that it works in every mode – Auto, Priorities, and Manual.
It’s an approximated preset setup, in the HS10 – and is VERY badly un-explained in the “Manual”.
To use it – choose the camera mode – you might be after birds in a tree 30-metres away, from tripod. So you’d use Shutter Priority, and work the aperture and ISO to get the Shutter Speed up to 1/500th or faster.
For this sort of shot, have the EVF/LCD centre “MF Focus Check” turned ON (Setup Menu Page 4 – next after RAW.)
Set MF from the left-back button. If on a tripod – tilt the LCD to a clear viewing angle. Turn the IS stabilising “Off” on a tripod – so the camera isn’t trying to stabilise movement that doesn’t exist – and so cause “vibes” itself.
Position the camera and zoom to the desired length, and aim at the branch-etc where the birds are perching. Press the AE/AF-Lock button on the back of the camera – directly below the Red Video button.
The camera will use the AF function to do an “approximate” focus, then beep. Now ‘gently’ use left-thumb and forefinger to “rock” the Focus Ring on the barrel each way – just a few mm… Watch the magnified LCD centre while doing so – and you’ll see the soft-sharp-soft focus “rock” either side of “centred-sharp”. From there just “centre” until at sharpest, and shoot.
If the bird-etc is staying in place long enough to allow it – preset the 2-second Timer before focussing. You’re wanting the sharpest possible image – and the HS10 – particularly in the top third of zoom-range – is VERY sensitive to vibes or movements. Whenever possible, therefore, use the Timer.
Using MF – you still have to pass through both First and Second stages of the usual Shutter movement. Using MF hand-held – which I use with Shutter Priority and Manual – you can hold the Shutter button at “half-down” – as you “rock” the Focus Ring to sharp-centre. That’s awkward on a tripod – so if the target allows, use the 2-second Timer.
Using MF hand-held – particularly if in lower light – or light-and-shade, when the AF is “hunting” and hard to lock-in and beep – where the target is relatively close, or large in the frame – it can be better to have the Focus-Check mag-centre Off.
Experiment a bit with some trial shots both tripod and handheld and MF, using “preset” and “rock-centre” with the ring… Very shortly, it will start feeling “instinctive”.
The HS10 MF is easily accurate enough to “pick through” leaves or branches to get a partly-concealed target in good focus… List the P&S cameras accurate enough on MF to do that – and it isn’t a very long list….
Regards, Dave.
Richard, you have heard from our resident “Fuji Genius”; David. Anything that David says, you can “take to the bank”. I’m happy to see David posting again.
Norman
Lol, I thought the same: “Wow, David is saying something about Manual Focus, let’s read and finally learn how to use it!”
David, you should post tutorials on youtube!
Norman / Cris – I’m on disability, and went into a program of “new” treatment which made things rather worse, so I wasn’t doing much of anything for a while… Others had the same reaction, and the “new” thing has been discontinued. I’m now back on the “old” meds-etc, which had worked very well for a long time, and am now just about back to “usual”. Sometimes new medical ideas are very good, of course – but sometimes not!
Thanks for the kind comments.
Best Regards, Dave.
David, I sincerely wish you the best as regards your health. For a while the forum was down and it was quite frustrating. Most frustrating was the absence of David Doak’s input. Take care of yourself David; we need you.
Norman
David,
I make Norman’s words my words too and wish you all the best!
With kind regards,
Cris
http://www.flickr.com/photos/16874284@N05/
Here is a selection of photos I took with my Fuji HS10 at the England v New Zealand polo match at Beaufort Polo Club in June 2010, and at the “In Search of Nick Jones” gig at the Queen Elizabeth Hall in London on 28/05/11.
Stephen, I enjoyed your action photographs. I have never seen an actual polo match except in movies and/or TV. The atheletic abilities of both horse and rider are amazing. Your action-stopping shots helped me to appreciate the efforts of both horse and rider.
Norman
Thanks for your kind comments. I spoke to a horse racing photographer client earlier today, who has given me a few tips (!!) for the frozen subject with blurred background effect. Of course “Essex Girl” and “Essex Man” with gold chains in abundance will no doubt feature strongly in other photos taken – being near Ongar!!
Hi Steve
Can’t seem to get at your photos. When I type the link you gave I get a page not found message. Shame, because I was hoping to see some of your Argentinian ones as well.
Peter – the link works OK for me. Try googling “flickr bonzo3legs” and the 2nd link will take you there. I am gradually trawling through my Argentina photos – up to day 7 so far and will gradually upload more. Only 1200 to go!!
Hi there,
Recently i bought a fuji hs10 and i lost the basic manual that small booklet which is in the camera box.
Can someone help me to get one cause im new with this camera and im goin abroad soon
Thanks
alfmic, you didn’t mention in which country you reside. However, there is a link on this site that may help. you can also try: http://www.fujifilm.com/contact/ Good luck.
Norman
Thanks Norman ,the easy way is to print main items from the manual.
Hi,
Having a mind meltdown today, age thing, for the life of me i cannot figure out to shoot in raw mode with the HS10, done the menu to death but can’t find it…. HELP!
Bill.
Hi Bill
Press menu/ok button. You will see 2 tabs on the left. Use down arrow key to select bottom tab then right arrow key. Scroll through menu until you find Raw. You can then select Raw only or Raw+Jpg. Don’t forget that the option you choose will remain until you change it. If you only want to shoot Raw occasionally you could set it up on the custom setting.
Today, the comment as well as the reply sections is working although one must scroll down to the bottom to clear the many accumulative postings. However, it is a victory of sorts.
Norman
I certainly hope that this forum gets up and running again, as it has been a wonderful resource for all oFuji HS10 users as well as informative in the general sense regarding digital (and film) photography. I cannot express my gratitude to the wonderful informative people contributing to this forum. Moose, if you’re out there someplace and can take the time, this site needs some TLC on your part. This is the first post (if it actually works) since May 13, 2011. Hello to all: Keep The Faith!
Norman
Is it working? If not, the problem seems not to be so difficult to solve. I found something like this on the net:
[...] just add this to the top of the page:
ini_set(“memory_limit”,”80M”);[...]
That, or any other value, might solve the memory problem. I hope this forum comes back to life again. It was so dynamic and rich with tips and informations.
Just visited this forum after a few weeks – great to be able to post again. I have two major polo games in the next 2 weeks, so I hope to get some decent action shots. I have a couple from the England v New Zealand polo match at Beaufort near Tetbury last month so I’ll publish those when I can. We are off to have Argentine steak now – they love it when I take a photo!!
Worked after a few tries. Most of the time this appears on the bottom of the page:
Fatal error: Allowed memory size of 33554432 bytes exhausted (tried to allocate 7680 bytes) in /home/ctips/public_html/wp/wp-includes/formatting.php(211) : runtime-created function on line 1
I certainly hope that this forum gets up and running again, as it has been a wonderful resource for all oFuji HS10 users as well as informative in the general sense regarding digital (and film) photography. I cannot express my gratitude to the wonderful informative people contributing to this forum. Moose, if you’re out there someplace and can take the time, this site needs some TLC on your part. This is the first post (if it actually works) since May 13, 2011. Hello to all: Keep The Faith!
Norman
Worked today, but site needs some attention.
Norman
Oh wow, it worked!
All I did was go to the very bottom of the page and theres a Comment form there – is it normally just lying there?
Anyway, Cris, sorry I never tried the sepia mode, maybe I should be more adventurous!
Well, I’ve just about given up posting on here – try a new comment and theres a memory error appears at the bottom of the page.
Just trying this new Comment out of curiosity.
If it doens’t work, I’ll try posting it as a reply.
Hi, are you people satisfied with the sepia mode on the HS10?
I made some test pictures and they looked a little bit hazy or milky. I would like more contrast. Are there any tricky settings I can use?
Thanks all,
Cris
This is getting a little silly now, I still can’t post any new comments. Whats going on?
Cris – You can get better shades and tones for Sepia in a graphics program. (Same as Channels mode in Photoshop or Gimp will do better “mono” than “B&W” in a camera.)
If you’re not inclined to do it that way, there’s a very good free program from Optik Verve Labs, called “Virtual Photographer”, that has over 200 filters and slider-etc adjustable presets to apply, including Sepia.
This is a Photoshop Plugin, but not everyone uses Photoshop. The pre-CS Photoshop 7 is still a VERY good program for working with digital photos – and a legal CD with key is now quite low-cost at used software places. And yes – the latest Virt-Photog works well in PS-7… Including both running well under Wine in Linux (where I just updated Virt Photog to check that it works with PS-7.)
If you don’t have Photoshop – Optik Verve also offers a free “Virtual Studio” program – which itself will run Virt-Photog – and many other Photoshop Plugins. They’re at:
- w-w.optikvervelabs.com/
For legal free plugins try – h-tp://thepluginsite.com/
One item there is “Harry’s Filters” – a plugin with about 70 many-sliders adjustable effects. Well worth a look if you like adjustable plugins.
Dave.
Thanks David,
I downloaded these tools from Optik Verve and they look very good. Actually I don’t like to post process my photos, except the auto levels I do in my infra-red pictures. But is still good to have tools like these in case of emergency.
I was thinking about some colour filter to increase contrast on sepia and b&w pictures. I searched about that, but only found filters to use with colour photos, not sepia mode plus some filter.
I avoid post processing cause if I go take pictures thinking that “I can fix it later”, then I will not give the most out of me. And I use this as argument to those that think digital photography is not “real”…
Thanks anyway, I will use the software to fix other people photos when they ask me to.
Cris
Finally, the site seems to be working. Cris, sometimes I have had better results by post processing into sepia when printing the photos. This gives me the opportunity to view them in color, B&W and sepia before making a choice.
Norman
It seems that the Virtual Studio application does not preserve the exif metadata onto the post-processed image files. Anybody else found this ?? Have I got the settings wrong ????????????
To Sara
I have been trying to reply to your post for days, but I keep getting a memory exceeded message. I think Moose’s website space has been filled up with the 895 previous posts. I’m hoping that this post doesn’t get rejected.
Sara what you ask is not easy. There are no magic settings for each of the functions. It depends upon what subject you are taking and the kind of light you are working in. May I suggest ‘The Digital Camera Handbook’. It is packed with info and is written in an easy to understand way. Alternately, look for photo tips on the web.
Good luck.
Still can’t post any new comments on here
Weird, my entry below was supposed to be a new Comment, must have clicked the wrong button.
To Cris
About the tripod mount, just to mention that even with quick release plates, at full zoom the weight of the camera is still going to be on the plastic screw thread. The use of release plates means you don’t have to continually screw and unscrew onto a tripod. However, because of it’s proximity to the battery door, you have to unscrew the release plate every time you want to change the batteries and from the many comments that I and David Doak have read this leads to wear on the threads.
The advice of some people on the Fuji forum is that you should tether the HS10 to the tripod in some way, just in case the tripod mount gives way.
Thanks for the advice,
I will be careful with the tripod mount and somehow roll up the strap on it…
Well, not long to go now to get my new camera.
Sorry, I’m a traitor! getting a Nikon D3100.
I would prefer Canon, but they priced themselves out of my range.
Looked at reviews of the HS20 and I’m afraid its just not good enough, too many problems with poor quality, eg dust on the INSIDE of the lens, and that dratted plastic tripod mount again, and various other bits and pieces that would annoy me!
The Nikon has a metal mount and a rubber eyecup, hope its effective.
I’ll miss the swivel screen though.
I’ll still use the HS10 – i love its long reach and excellent macro results.
Have just purchased a Fuji Hs10 and taken the first 30 or so pictures at random.having copied them to Finepix studio all pictures appear very narrow or skinny whether vertical or horizontal what am I doing wrong??????
Hi Barrie
The only thing I can think of is that you have your image size set to 16:9 like a widescreen tv. All the options for image size are detailed on page 85 of the manual.
Hi I’ve had my hs10 for about a year now now and I mainly use it to take pictures of my son and family or outings such as the zoo… I really don’t know much about it or what the terms mean or do…right now or well since I’ve had it ive had problems such as it taking way to long to take a picture and my pictures come out blurry I really like the caamera but it really doesn’t do me any good if I can’t take pictures that I like I would like to know if you could give me the best settings for every mode and maybe a breif description of what they all do… I would love it if you could do that for me thank you sooo much! Hope to hear from you really soon! :)
hi guys, ok think im finally getting the hang of taking reasonable pics with the hs10, one question, how do i upload them to this page to get peoples feedback
cheers
t
Hi Guys!
Haven’t been here for awhile, but now, am in need for some advice :)
I’m going to disney world at the end of the month and want to know how to get the BEST night shots of the fireworks and light shows without using a tripod. How would YOU set your hs10 for this????
Hi Wendy
Tough one! The ‘fireworks’ setting in the scene mode is quite effective but you will need to have some kind of support if you don’t want to use a tripod.
You can try leaning against a wall, tree or anything solid that is around. You could also try resting your camera on someone’s shoulder. Another little trick is to use the ‘strap method’ where you wrap the strap tightly around your arm and then pull the camera under tension to your eye.
You are not using a tripod so you can leave IS fully on and don’t be tempted to use zoom too much. It’s better to set a wider angle [and leave it there] to take in a whole patch of sky as you never know exactly where in the frame the fireworks are going to go off. You might also want to consider continuous shooting so you take several frames of the same scene.
You might also consider using the video features of the HS10 and extract the best pictures using video editing software at a later date.There are quite a few freebie software programs on the web which do the job quite well.
Don’t know if anything I’ve said is of any use to you, but it might prompt somebody else to come back to you with better ideas.
Another method to stabilize the camera is to attach a screw on the tripod mount and tie a string to it. The other end of the string you can fix to your belt or step on it and then pull the camera under tension to your eye. You just need to set the length of the string so that the camera is on you eye level when the string is stretched. This is also very useful to shoot videos.
Good luck,
Cris
Cris – That’s usually a good way to tension-stabilise a hand-held camera.
However, with the HS10 (and the HS20 looks to be the same) – the tripod screw-mount is only plastic, not metal, and isn’t part of the camera’s internal frame. It’s also about 3mm from the battery door opening.
There are now quite a few reports on other Forums saying that those folks’ HS10 mount-screw hole has cracked through to the battery housing – then Fuji tells them that’s not covered under Warranty.
Fuji also claims that the plastic mount-screw is “only intended for occasional use”…. A most peculiar claim for a 30x / 720mm Bridge Zoom camera…!
In many situations, at or near full zoom to a small or detailed target (bird feathers, etc) – using a tripod is essential.
What probably makes Fuji refuse to fix it under Warranty – is that the severe design-flaw of using a plastic mount on a fairly heavy P&S camera that will spend a lot of time on a tripod – is compounded by two other flaws – the closeness to an “edge” – that of the battery compartment – and that, most oddly, the mount is not only not replaceable, but it is merely a hole drilled and threaded in the external plastic case of the camera…
To “repair” a problem with it – the whole camera has to be dis-assembled, and the external plastic case replaced. That being so, in handling, parts, and workshop time, it’d probably be cheaper just to replace the camera…!
I’ve been in contact with the Australian Dept of Fair Trading, who from the description said that the plastic mount certainly isn’t adequate for intended use purposes, so a claim for repair / replacement / refund would likely be enforced.
This severe design problem has been mentioned in detail in other posts on this forum.
I think that if one was using the cord-bracer to tripod ring mount with the HS10, you’d need to be very careful that the screw used didn’t make any angular strain on the screw-hole. Perhaps put a thin string around the quick-release shoe from the tripod – with the string close to the screw – and use that to hold it.
Or run a thin but strong string – piece of nylon fishing-line or similar – through the loops that hold the neck-strap each side of the camera, and make a “V” yoke under the camera, over which is then looped the cord that goes to the ground.
Dave.
David,
you’re right! I just didn’t believe it could be so fragile. How could Fuji do that to us? In another forum a guy said he replaced the tripod mount with a home made aluminium thread. No picture, I wonder how he fixed it. I thought the tripod mount was like a replaceable cube plastic piece, there are two screws next to it and the plastic looks likes its a individual piece…
I guess the safer way to use it is with a tripod that has quick release plates…
Thanks for the advice!
Cris
I really want to like the HS 10. Ergonomically, it’s probably the best camera I’ve owned. However, I’m getting very frustrated with the focusing. It doesn’t seem to matter whether I use manual or auto focus when I’m indoors, the indicator light blinks green and will not go to a steady green. I have tried increasing ISO; I’ve used Pro Low-Light; Scene mode natural light, aperture priority, shutter priority etc.
I must be doing something wrong – but I can’t figure out what. Used outside, the indicator light shows that focus is attained very quickly.
As an experiment I tried to take an indoor shot with the HS10 and then I tried my Panasonic G1 using the same settings The Fuji wouldn’t focus; the Panasonic immediately focused. (I realize the G1 has a larger sensor and so the result was to be expected. But I still can’t figure out why the HS10 has so much difficulty focusing indoors. The room I used it in is not too dark; there’s plenty of natural light.)
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Garth
Hi again Garth
By the ‘green indicator’ I take it that you mean the lamp to the left of the eyepiece. If this is the case then it warns of 3 things – blur,focus,or exposure.
You say that the camera is not focussing. If it is not then on the lcd or through the evf you will see !AF in red.
My thought is that the lamp is warning you of either blur or exposure and that it is actually focussing fine.
In low light there is a danger of blur due to low exposure settings but the lcd/evf display will show a yellow ! and camera symbol to warn you of this. Do you have IS turned on? Are your exposure settings too low? As for the focus, do you have the AF assist illuminator set to ‘on’ in the setup menu?
I know that people complain about cameras not focussing well in low light, but to be honest with the HS10, I have had to be in near darkness before it has trouble focussing. In fact I’ve spent the last five minutes turning my dimmer switch down until I got to the point where the camera had difficulty focussing.
Hope this sheds some light on your problem and as an aside, I never bother looking at that green light – the warning symbols on the evf/lcd display are much more informative.
Peter, thanks once again for your clearly stated answer. I think you and David Doak should have written the manual for the camera.
I do have IS on (mode 2) and I have tried various settings; I never realized that the flashing light meant anything but poor focus. I’ll keep plugging away. The camera seems too good to give up on.
Garth
i have been using the hs10 for about a year now but i am still comfused on which image stabilization mode to use. any help would be great. thank you
Hi David,
take a look at this discussion:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1012&message=35145641&changemode=1
maybe it responds your questions.
Good luck,
Cris
Hi David
You obviously know the options but I always use 2+D which comes into effect when shooting ie. when the shutter is pressed. option 1 or 1+D means the IS will operate continuously which is another item to help drain your batteries. You may find that option 2 is fine for you but as I get older, my hands are not as steady as they used to be which is why I choose to use the +D as well.
As an addendum to using IS, I read recently in shutterbug, an article where they said the whenever you use a tripod, you should disable IS as it negatively affects sharpness. ” Image Stabilization systems are designed to look for and counteract motion, When the camera is mounted on a tripod, there is little or no movement to react to, but the camera is still searching for movement. The result can be softer images due to the activity of the IS system.” Just a thought.
Norman
thank you for the input. i have been using #1, i really don’t care about batt. life. but i think i will switch to #2 for awhile and see what happens.
Hello! I have to say this page has been a wealth of info! I’m so glad I stumbled across it! I have had my camer for several months and have always shot in auto as I am a complete dufe when it comes to understanding settings.
Is there any chance you can list started setting for each of the modes, and what they are for? I have books apleanty including the ones you mention but I must have a mental block for photograghy I can’t for the life of me get started. I guess I’m hoping that if I have somewhere to start it will somehow click for me.
Also can you please explain frames per second? I can’t seem to see how to set that? I’ve seen someone post somewhere for a macro shot that they had 1/125 or something like that? I’m lost.
Thank you so much in advance, I really appreaciate you time!
Hello Michelle
Photography can be a little daunting when it comes to taking charge of the settings yourself. The first thing to get to grips with is the ‘light’ triangle which shows how aperature, shutter speed and ISO setting are related. There are quite a few good tutorials on the web if you do a search, but I’ll give you a brief run down.
1] Aperature is the size of the hole in your lens that the light goes through. It is measured in f stops. the smaller the number the bigger the hole and the more light it will let in ie. f2.8 is a much bigger hole than f8. The size of the hole affects the depth of field ie. how much of your picture will be in focus. So a large hole (eg. f2.8) will focus only in a certain range. If you want to make the camera focus over a greater distance range you need to use a smaller hole eg. f8, f11 etc. On your camera dial you have an A for aperture setting. This means that you set the aperature and the camera will decide what shutter speed you need.
2] Shutter speed is the time that the hole remains open and governs how much light is let in. Shutter speed is shown as a fraction of 1 second ie. 1/50th. is equal to half a second. On the camera dial there is an S shutter option. This is where you choose the shutter speed and the camera decides what aperature is needed. You may have seen pictures where a waterfall seems to be frozen. This needs to be a slow shutter speed. To capture the waterfall in a crystal clear way you would use a fast shutter speed.
3] ISO is a throwover from the days of film and was a measure of the sensitivity of the chemicals on the film to light. So a 400 iso film was more sensitive than a 100 iso film. However, the higher the iso the more grainy the film was. In digital cameras, this graininess appears as ‘noise’ in your photographs.
Where everything gets complicated is that it is possible to set different settings which produce the same result. But for now try this experiment. Set up an object in good light and set your camera to A. Turn the mode dial to set the biggest hole [small number f stop] the camera will allow. Take a picture. Now turn the mode dial to make a smaller hole [progressively bigger numbers]. Take a picture each time. When you review each picture even if it is very dark, press the info button on the left of the camera. You will see the f stop you set, the shutter speed the camera set and a histogram. A properly exposed picture will show the bulk of the histogram in the centre. A dark picture will have the bulk to the left and a very bright one will have the bulk to the right. Try the experiment again but this time choose the S option and set the shutter speeds yourself. By noting the different settings the info button shows you will begin to see which settings provide a good picture.
I am sorry this is so long-winded but I have tried to keep my explanation simple. As I said, there are many good tutorials on the web if you find my explanations nonsensical.
Hello! Any suggestions for settings at a concert? I love the zoom capabilities, but can’t use a tripod for this, so hoping for less blur.
Thanks!
Hi Jen, like I said on a topic above:
“[a] method to stabilize the camera is to attach a screw on the tripod mount and tie a string to it. The other end of the string you can fix to your belt or step on it and then pull the camera under tension to your eye. You just need to set the length of the string so that the camera is on you eye level when the string is stretched. This is also very useful to shoot videos.”
In your case, fixing it to your belt would be more practical, as you might have to move around.
Good luck,
Cris
Jen, just be careful cause the tripod mount is fragile. Look what David Doak wrote in a topic above:
[David Doak - April 17, 2011 at 2:48 am
Cris – That’s usually a good way to tension-stabilise a hand-held camera.
However, with the HS10 (and the HS20 looks to be the same) – the tripod screw-mount is only plastic, not metal, and isn’t part of the camera’s internal frame. It’s also about 3mm from the battery door opening.
There are now quite a few reports on other Forums saying that those folks’ HS10 mount-screw hole has cracked through to the battery housing – then Fuji tells them that’s not covered under Warranty...]
Hi Moose and everyone else
First, I must say this has to be one of the most friendly and informative camera forums I’ve visited. I just got my HS10 and I noticed that one of the products you endorse is the GGS LCD screen protector. I visited Amazon, but I’m a bit confused. The company offers 3.0″ and a 2.7″ models. The HS screen is 3.0″ in the diagonal and 2.7″ in the horizontal. So which of the 2 models would I need to buy? (I have always thought that when these items are sold the dimension given is the diagonal. Is that the case here?) Sorry for what may be a very simple question.
Garth
Hi Garth
Order a GGS lcd screen protector for a canon 500D. You will find it is a perfect fit for the Fuji HS10 lcd.
Thanks, Peter. I appreciate your prompt reply.
Garth
Hi Moose and everyone,
This is my first post on this great forum, though i have read lots of the topics already. I bought a HS10 a few weeks ago and im just starting to play with more of the settings.
I have a few questions:
1) As with the last post, it would be great to keep the shutter sound, but keep all other camera noises off. Is this possible?
2) We know the EVF is poor (it is worse than my 2004 Minolta Dimage A1 – so much for technological advances!), but the thing i find worst is the glare that enters the EVF. Because the EVF is flush with the rear of the camera and there is no rubber skirt it is impossible to create a seal to the EVF, and anything but with the sun being perfectly behind, you get glare. Im having to cup my left hand over the top of the camera to prevent this. Does anyone have any advice?
3) The manual focus display. What does the yellow dot and the white line mean? Moving the focus ring doesnt seem to do much to them. They appear to move about at random.
I love the 24mm wide angle and the amazing zoom capabilities. The colours of landscapes are so vivid, im very impressed so far.
BTW, the Sony VCL-DH1758 Telephoto fits and is a brilliant addition. But the Sony VCL-DH0758 Wideangle lens does not fit this camera
Thanks
David
Hi David,
that glare problem in the EVF is really annoying. When we most need it (in a sunny day) is the worst condition to use it. I have one of these rubber skirts from an old super8 cam and I’m breaking my head the last weeks thinking in a way to fix it in the EVF without permanently gluing it. I’m trying to bend a bicycle wheel spoke in a way that it can be fixed in the flash shoe (without damaging it!). If I succeed I post a picture. Well, so far I have no solution, but I wrote this for you to know that others might suffer with the same problem.
About the manual focus: the bigger the white bar is (the more to right it grows), more focus you will have. And the yellow dot marks the point you have reached. That’s the way I see it. You better wait for others to explain better. If you hold the camera still, it won’t grow and shrink in that chaotic way. It looks like the camera already knows the focus, “she” is just waiting you to turn the ring to the right position, hehehe. And when the camera shakes and objects in focus changes the white bar goes crazy. Use a tripod or lay your cam on a steady surface to practice and you will understand what I mean. Btw, using manual focus is a good way to avoid that focus lock sound.
Lol, sorry David, I just realized my answers are nearly useless. But the guys here are clever and someone else will give better explanations.
Good luck,
Cris
Cris,
Thanks for taking the time to reply.
At least it is not just me suffering with the glare. Lets see how your experiment goes.
With the focus then, it is a case of me needing to be steady – so my next investment will be a tripod. As with many sections, Its a pity the instruction manual does not explain things better.
Lets see if anyone has an idea about the sounds options and the shutter sound.
David
Hi David,
so far I had no success with the EVF cover. Some day I’ll go to a camera repair shop to see if they can give me an idea about what to do. And about the manual focus, you don’t need to buy a tripod just to do that – but of course, a 30x zoom camera begs for it. After a little practice you will notice that it’s not so tricky to use the manual focus and it gets more elementary, my dear Watson (sorry, I just had to do this joke).
Ah, you may try and turn off that center-zoom-area-manual-focus-assistant to a better understanding about that crazy white line and yellow dot.
I hope you manage this. Come back later to tell us your experience!
cya,
Cris
Hi David
This is not a flippant answer to the EVF question, but have you tried wearing a baseball cap ?
David,
my solution to cover the EVF was very complicated and I used a specific rubber eyecup. But today i came across this:
http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/forum/1/96723
It may help!
Bye,
Cris
Did you managed the manual focus yet?
Cris
Hi, I have another question about setup. Is there a way to mute that double blip when the camera locks the focus? I know that if I turn the shutter sound off that blip doesn’t sound, but I want to hear the shutter sound, I just don’t want to hear that focus blip – it’s sounds a little bit amateur… Silent mode isn’t the answer either. Thanks!
Cris
ps. To whom can I send suggestions? (would be great to have another shutter sound options, even self made sounds…)
So as I’m learning new ways to make my camera work the way I want it to, I’m thinking of buying some accessories to assist in my photography self-teaching (with all of your help) skills.
Is this Tele-Photo Lens good? Would it work and do you suggest it for taking scenic photos?
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/58mm-2-0x-Tele-Photo-Lens-Fuji-HS10-S9600-S9500-/190508685968?pt=AU_Cameras_Photographic_Accessories&hash=item2c5b33da90
What is the difference between a rubber collapsible hood and a Flower Shape hood? We love going to aquariums but get the reflection of the flash through the glass which is disappointing and I also take lots of outdoor photos when the light is harsh. Which would you suggest and can you tell me why?
Flower Hood
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/58mm-Flower-Shape-Lens-Hood-Fuji-HS10-S9600-S9500-S7000-/380316511011?pt=AU_Cameras_Photographic_Accessories&hash=item588ca16b23
I have no idea about these but found them on ebay… (My Camera House doesn’t tell me much obviously so here I am!)
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/BK-UV-PL-ND-Filter-58mm-Fujifilm-Fuji-FinePix-HS10-/140522904046?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item20b7d159ee
I do want to get the Raynox DCR250 as well.
Is there anything else anyone can recommend to me?
Thanking you kindly! :)
Pia, while I cannot answer all of your questions, I can address some. A flower petal sunshade (rotatable) is handy when using wide angle lenses or in this case, a wide angle setting. A rubber (collapsible) lens hood or sunshade is very handy for pressing against reflective surfaces (glass) and keeping out extraneous light. Preventing reflection from a camera mounted flash is a bit more difficult. I have used off-camera flash units against glass by making a temporary lens hood/sunshade contraption utilizing black gaffing tape. The HS10 presents more difficulty re aquariums. Hope this helps.
Norman
Thank you Norman.
I have gone ahead and purchased a petal hood and a collapsible hood from ebay and will play with them when they arrive.
In regards to shooting in aquariums, what is the best setting for this?
And also – for shooting outside for landscape and beach settings, are they really the best settings to shoot with?
Thanks again, I appreciate it.
Pia, I haven’t taken photographs at an aquarium for years. At the time I used a 35mm manually operated SLR with a collapsible rubber hood pressed against the glass. I took light meter readings (also with the meter sensor pressed against the glass) bracketed my shots and prayed. Some were great and some were not so great, but one didn’t know until after they were processed. I used the same type of system when flying my plane (USAF) and one of the ground crew guys made me a neoprene ring attached to a screw in filter. It worked as far as keeping extraneous light from reflecting. Wish I could be of more help, but I was dragged kicking and screaming into “digital” photography, and I’m still learning the basics. If there is one available in your area, join a camera club. I joined a great club here in Florida, and the members are a great source of information.
Norman
Hi there,
I posted back in December but I’m still having the same issues so I’m coming back again seeking help.
I am finding it very difficult to capture photographs of my active 15 month old, both indoors and outdoors. When she is moving, the images come across blurred – even on the auto setting.
Does anyone have any advice on how I can get the photographs to be taken so they aren’t blurry? I’m really wanting this help because I’m getting very cross at the camera when really, I know it’s probably just me not being skilled enough.
Thanks
Hi Pia
Have a look at pages 50+51 in the manual. You can choose to have the camera focus continuously which is good for moving subjects or you can choose a tracking mode which follows the moving subject and keeps it in focus. You can choose to use face detection with the last method if you wish. Auto mode is not very good with moving subjects, it is best not used.
Hope this helps.
Thank you Peter. What mode would you recommend? Sporting mode also brings up blurred images.
Yesterday however I went into the shutter change setting (sorry I forget which one) and changed the shutter speed to 125 and the ISO to 200 and this worked much better – the pictures weren’t blurred but quite dark even when using a flash.
I will try your suggestion on page 50 & 51 and see how that goes.
Thank you.
Pia – As Peter says about Auto – and Program isn’t much better – the HS10 is a camera you “have to tell what to do”.
It can do rather better than most Bridge Zooms on moving targets, as it has good Shutter Priority ability, and also quick Fast Continuous – and they do work well in combination.
In Shutter Priority, you choose the shutter speed, and the camera sets the aperture. For moving targets you need at least 1/125th of a second – 1/250th and up is better.
Selecting such speeds outdoors, unless on a very dull day, isn’t a problem. If ISO 100 isn’t allowing the speeds, use ISO 200 – there’s almost no difference in ‘noise’ at 200. At ISO 400 – there is a little noise – but unless you crop the image severely, or display at over 1600 x 1200, it’s rarely noticeable.
If you do RAW and post-process for the small amounts of noise, ISO 800 and 1600 are very usable – unusual for a P&S camera.
However, even in bright outdoor shade, or well-lit indoors – up to ISO 400 should give you speeds above 1/125th second.
The other part is using Fast Continuous. Setting that is shown on Manual Page 43.
The wee rascals at the 12-20 months stage do a lot of fast simultaneous movements – head, legs, arms, hands, etc – as they move around. So you have to get an image when “all of the parts” are in focus.
So you need to be able to follow them as they move, and take several images fairly quickly – but not TOO quickly… Since Fuji’s claimed 10 frames a second – after the 1.02 update – is actually 12fps+ – that’s much too fast to give the maximum JPEG burst of 7 images enough duration.
Selecting 7fps will give about 1-second duration – 5fps a little over a second. You might try 7fps when she’s sitting or standing still – but will be chattering away, moving arms, so on. That can work well indoors, in the yard wading-pool, so on, as you’re not needing to move the camera to follow her.
When she’s moving – try the 7fps – but 5fps gives you a longer shooting duration – and a better chance of 1 or more of the 7 shots having a nice “head and limbs” position, and being in good focus.
When she’s not moving around, hold the camera steady – use the viewfinder, not the LCD – Shutter button half-down to focus – pause a fraction, to start the burst when she’s smiling, etc – and shoot.
When she’s moving – get to focus and ‘beep’ as you track her – then full-down to start the burst while still tracking at the same speed. Keep the camera in the tracking movement until after the burst has finished, or you’ve released the shutter before it finishes.
For burst shooting, set the IS shake reduction on “2″ – Shoot Only.
Begin at ISO 200 – this will ensure outdoors that you’re getting enough Shutter Speed – later, in good light, when used to the mode, you can try ISO 100, for best-quality images.
Set Metering (Photometry), second button down on the left, at Spot. AF-Mode – third button, at Centre, Focusing – 4th button, at Single-AF.
Dave.
Thank you Dave!
I am able to do everything you have given me tips for – with room for improvement – apart from:
“• For burst shooting, set the IS shake reduction on “2″ – Shoot Only. ”
How and where do I find the IS shake reduction?
Also – I have not updated my Firmware so it is still operating at 1:02 I think (not the latest). I have not done this as if I do it wrong, I’ve been given the impression I won’t be able to use the camera so I don’t want to stuff it up!
I purchased a 4Gb SDHC today thinking it may upgrade it automatically for me, as I read that happened somewhere, but it did not.
Is the upgrade absolutely necessary?
Thanks again!
Also – another stupid question – sorry…
What does RAW mean?
Pia – Like a lot of other HS10 functions, Fuji’s so-called “Manual” doesn’t say much about the 4 IS – Image Stabilising – modes. It’s further confused by Fuji’s having used diagrams and some text from previous camera models, such as my S2000HD…
There’s a brief mention under “Setup Menu” at the top of Page 106. In the camera, it’s On Page 3 of the Setup Menu, above the “Red Eye Removal” item.
In any P&S camera, and particularly long-zoom cameras, IS / Shake-Reduction – is a very important feature, and the settings and uses should be fully explained in the camera’s Manual.
I’ve left my Firmware at 1.02, as I don’t need the extra languages, etc, the later update has. It doesn’t add “essentials” that many asked for, such as a “sticky” setting on Continuous, so on.
All Digital Cameras actually record the picture in RAW mode. This is the complex digital coding that the human-viewable image is created from. Most P&S cameras then just automatically “process” the RAW data, save a JPEG image from that, and discard the rest of the RAW file data.
Some higer-end digital cameras now add the option of the User being able to save the RAW data file. The better cameras with this option also allow the User to do both – that is, save the RAW data file, and the usual JPEG image file the camera makes from the RAW file.
So the camera has the “Save options” of JPEG only / RAW only / and RAW + JPEG. That’s also noted on Page 106 of the Manual, and a little more on the left side of Page 112.
The RAW data file contains all of the information that “the camera saw when it made the shot” – so is much bigger than the JPEG file – the RAW will be around 15MB, the JPEG 2-5MB.
Because JPEG is a light and “lossy” format of small compact file-size, that suits many users for showing and printing-out, it’s the one almost universally used for P&S cameras, and of course is optional, or as RAW + JPEG, in DSLRs.
JPEGs deteriorate any time they are “worked on” to improve them, or if they are cropped and re-saved. This deterioration is the “losses” referred to in “lossy format”. If you need to work on a JPEG – to Sharpen, improve Colours with Levels, Curves, etc – change it to a non-lossy format – PSD, Photoshop – XCF, Gimp – and TIFF, which will work in Photoshop or Gimp, and most other image editors, are some of the “non-lossy” ones.
To create the lossy JPEG file – which algorithm (coding) doesn’t allow a lot of information to be included, the camera “discards” a lot of the RAW file information.
Usually, with P&S, which doesn’t have the changeable lenses that can very much alter the information content, the camera created JPEGs are just what users want, anyway, so they often won’t want to bother with “Post Processing” RAW files.
RAW files from a small P&S size sensor don’t have quite as much information in them as the ones from the much larger DSLR sensors – but they do contain a lot more than in a JPEG.
While many DSLR users “only shoot RAW” – so have to post-process every shot taken – that’s far less applicable with P&S cameras. Where it can be useful with P&S – is where the shooting conditions are “marginal” – low light, or a light tone that isn’t corrected by the White Balance settings in the camera, and situations where with JPEG you “hardly get a usable image”.
The HS10 doesn’t have an external control to quickly select the RAW or RAW + JPEG you might want (the HS20 does, which is very good) – so for a quick change to RAW / RAW + JPEG as set in the Menu – you can create a Custom setup – and Save that to the “Custom” setting on the Mode Dial.
I do a lot of my shooting in Shutter Priority, and usually don’t need RAW – but when I do, I want to change to it quickly. So I have Custom pre-set to Shutter Priority with RAW + JPEG.
To PP – post-process – RAW files, you need a program that can read and use Fuji HS10 RAF RAWs.
While you can correct White Balance, Colour casts, Colour ranges, and more, in RAW processing, I use it more for High-ISO denoising than other things (they’re used more to “trim up”) – because the HS10 encourages you to do low-light and high-ISO shots that you usually wouldn’t attempt with a P&S camera.
Using RAW, you can, with a little gentle “de-noising” and a slight USM sharpen, have “clean images” at ISOs 800 and 1600 from the HS10. (ISO 800 is usually quite okay in JPEG if you reduce the display size under 1600 x 1200, unless you crop the image.)
When the light is very poor, shutter speeds are slow, and you’re using a tripod – you can use ISO 3200 – and RAW + JPEG (having the JPEG lets you see quickly on-PC which RAWs are going to be woth processing) – you can de-noise and “recover colour” – and have some – not all – quite usable images. Exposure bracketing (AEB) at about +/- 2/3EV can help get “usables”.
ISO 6400 – unless it was the only way to get an exposure – is a “bit hopeful”….
If interested in using the HS10′s RAW abilities – Google for Guides and Tutorials on RAW.
Dave.
Could somebody tell me how to operate inbuilt flash. I tried many times but couldn’t find out. Thanks
Chokyi, look on page 38 of the Fujifilm online manual or on the CD that comes with the camera. – Norman
Hi, I’m a happy owner of a HS10 and I’m very satisfied with its functions, but I think the manual could be more complete. The dificulty I’m having is with the menu. I never now which settings are applied to all modes or just to that mode I am, while I change something like resolution, picture size etc etc. Is there a more complete manual that specifies what settings stays when I change de modes (like P, S, A, M)? I hope I made myself clear, sorry about my english…
Thanks!!!
Can you tell I just got the camera!! Can someone give me a good example of the function of the AE AF lock button versus just using the shutter button half press and then recomposing?
As far as the button choices on the left of the camera (ISO, AE, AF-S, AF C,S, M), in what shooting mode am I able to make setting selections? I am assuming I have to be out of Auto or Auto SR. Also, once I make selections do they “stick” regardless of changing my shooting mode? Also, any advice on the best way to use the AE AF lock button? Is it best to use it to lock in both? Is it best to set it at R/A so I do not have to hold down the button to lock in the focus and or exposure? Thanks
Maryann – In Auto, you can change AF-Mode from Centre to Tracking, and Focusing from Continuous to Single-AF to Manual. All buttons are usable in the other modes.
I leave AE/AF in A – Lock Only. However, I tend to use the shutter button held half-down to recompose – that way, if you or the target move, you can re-focus immediately.
My main use for the AE/AF button is in Manual Focusing – pressing it gives a quick approximate pre-focus using the AF – from where you can fine-tune the MF by “rocking” the focus-ring on the barrel either way, until best-focus “centres”.
Dave.
how do i find discharge menu on finpix H S 10
Hi
Go to the setup menu and keep scrolling to the very last item. This will only be available if you have battery type N selected on previous item and actually have rechargeables installed.
just bought a hs20
Dont understand but there is a yellow camera symbol with an exclamation mark on the screen all the time what is it?
and can i get rid of it?
Hello Ho
The symbol means that there is a danger of blurry pictures due to camera shake when using very slow shutter speeds. Have you set dual IS in the menu? Are you trying to shoot indoors in low light? Are you using S mode (shutter priority) with too small a shutter speed set? One final check is to turn on flash and see if the symbol goes away. If it doesn’t, you might have a fault on the camera.
thank you
you were right
how do I set dual IS in the menu?
Ho
Glad it wasn’t a fault on your new camera. The dual IS setting is in the set-up menu [page 95 in the manual]. You can choose to have it set off, single shooting only and continuous. If you choose continuous you must remember that it puts an extra drain on the batteries. I usually use single shooting only.
Hi all,
Iam from india I frequently go to outdoor shoots with my HS10. Now I have a prob that after 30-50 clicks the temperature icon starts flashing I referred to the manual too it say its coz of slow shutter speed at high temperature and it also says that’s not malfunction I tried ‘A’ and ‘S’ modes too all and all others but this temperature icon flashes it temperature in india where I live is around 30 degree C and is tend to rise…! So can anyone help me get rid of the prob
Regards
Pratik
Hi pratik.
Theres a similar problem in a thread on another forum.
Try a Google search on “HS10 overheating”.
It came back top of the list for me.
Have a read through it and see if theres anything there can help.
Hey paul,
I googled about the prob but cannot get any good solution. So I went to FujiFilm service center regarding the same issue and talked to the senior person there he said that indication is nothin to worry about and it won’t damage the sensor too and he also stated that all fuji cam has this function and its just coz it tells you that you are shooting outdoors some how I still don’t find it convincing is there anyways you could still help me
Regards,
Pratik
Oh, well, heres the link. I can’t find anything else useful anywhere:
http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/readflat.asp?forum=1012&message=35309767&changemode=1
This guy is in Singapore, gets the warning message and has been told, like you were, not to worry about it.
And as one of the posters says on there, will Fuji replace your camera if you ignore the warning and it overheats?
Hi Moose,
I’ve just recently taken up photography as a hobby, and so I purchased a HS 10 rather than going right into purchasing a DSLR. As a first camera its not too bad, but one thing I’m dissapointed in, is that it only tales 7 photos continuously in burst mode.
The question I have is; can the HS10 take photos continuously when holding down the shutter?.
Thanks,
Andrew.
Andrew – hi! If you mean, does it have a “fill-the-card” slow continuous at about 2fps as some cameras do, no, it doesn’t.
However, it’s possible that the HS20 “might” do 32 x JPEGs in sequence.
As with the HS10 “manual”, the HS20′s isn’t detail-explanatory. That is – it describes where to find functions – then doesn’t properly explain what those do or how they do it.
The “Continuous” Section in the HS20 manual is Pages 44 to 47. The diagram on the right in Page 47 suggests that it does “Up To” 32 JPEGs.
It doesn’t say if those are “burst” or a fill-the-card slow continuous at about 2fps. Nor does it say which function mode this refers to
(The old Fuji S2000HD rattles-off 33 frames in about 7-seconds – but that’s at half-resolution of 5Mpix. Quite usable, though.)
But with the HS20, it’s unclear as to speed or resolution of the “maybe” 32 x JPEGs. If that was 32 x 16Mpix frames at the full resolution “burst” speed of 8fps – that’d be better than most DSLRs…! So I do suspect it isn’t quite that…
It “might” mean that it does 32 x JPEGs in the “paired-receptor” EXR mode – meaning half-resolution at 8Mpix – the resolution it uses to almost reach the HS10′s 12fps, 7 x JPEGs at full 10Mpix resolution…
However, I of course don’t know that – just reading the HS20 “manual” and “guessing” at what it might be doing.
We really DO need a good Full Hands-On Review of the HS20….
I’m starting to have the feeling re the HS10 that I had about my Canon SX10 when the SX20 was released…. Sure, the SX20 has the HD video the SX10 doesn’t. The lens setup is identical on those cameras. The SX20 has 12Mpix on the same sized sensor as the SX20′s 10Mpix. And the SX20 doesn’t have the “Superfine” JPEG save mode of the SX10… The SX10 does rather better JPEGs than the SX20. So no SX10 owner felt “downgraded” by the SX20 – other than for the video.
So I’m rather wondering – will we HS10-ers be hiding secret grins – as our HS10s gain a “collector’s item” status, as has the SX10…
Dave.
Hi Dave,
Thanks for the info.
Does Raynox DCR 2025 works with HS10 ? What would be the effect of using this lens ? how much maximum zoom can be achieved and what about the quality ?
http://www.amazon.com/Raynox-DCR-2025-High-Definition-Telephoto/dp/B000Y9YFDA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=electronics&qid=1291485704&sr =1-1
I haven’t got this lens, but looking at your link, it has some excellent reviews.
The price is $186. It comes with 4 adapters, you would need the 68mm one for it to fit the HS10.
There are some example shots here:
http://www.myfinepix.co.uk/article/117/124537
but fitted to a different camera.
As with any of these lenses, you might find a drop-off in quality.
I have the Sony VCL-DH1758, which is about x 1.7, as opposed to the Raynox which is 2.2, and there is a slight reduction in quality, but I find that acceptable for the amount of zoom I can get.
I can find it on Amazon UK, but not the main Amazon site, so maybe that info is of no use to you.
I am a 1 year owner of Fuji HS10. I just want to know what is the right setting to capture a perfect bokeh.
Thanks.
Hi Reinier
I have made mention of bokeh in previous posts, but I’ll repeat my methods for you. Of course it depends on what you want to photograph with good bokeh.
If doing portraits, for example, bokeh is quite easy to achieve as you have control over the subject and the distance to the background. However, in wildlife photography you do not have as much control.
As a general rule I do the following
1] Use a large aperture if possible either by using A mode or manual.
2] Use regular macro and place your subject in the range of 2-5m so that you can use telephoto zoom [telephoto has less depth of field than wideangle]. Make sure that the background is further away than this, say 6 or 7 metres. If you want to use wideangle zoom, then using regular macro again, position your subject within the range 10cm – 3m and make sure the background is further away than this.
3] Wildlife photography is whole different ball game. When I’m shooting insects or butterflies, I use wide aperture and supermacro within the range of 1cm – 1m. Other types of wildlife however, is just a matter of luck when it comes to bokeh. You could try setting a birdtable away from any background and using the settings above focus on it so that any bird landing on the table will be in focus.
Hope these ideas help.
Thanks a lot peter. I will try your suggestions today and I will inform you about the results too. Have a nice weekend.
We are travelling to Argentina in 10 days time, and one of our trips will be on the “Train to the Clouds” which goes up to 4,200 metres over a period of 7 hours, so loads of photography time. The train apparently goes no faster than 35 kph.
Does anyone have any tips for taking photographs through a glass window?
Stephen, I heve had success by using a collapsible rubber sunshade pressed against the window. This keeps out extraneous light and/or reflections. Any sunshade (rubber) that threads to 58mm will work. Here is one for an example, but they are quite common and available on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/58mm-Rubber-Lens-Hood-Fuji-Finepix-HS10-/360311313819?pt=Lens_Accessories&hash=item53e43a559b . I hope this helps. Also, take plenty of AA batteries, as the HS10 is power hungry and the price of batteries offshore is often prohibitive. Have a fun trip.
Norman
PS: If you Google rubber sunshade 58mm you might get lots of choices.
A circular polariser will also be quite useful to get rid of unwanted reflections
Thanks, I’ll look in to that. I have seen a few photos on flickr which look as if they were taken from an open window on that train – it depends I suppose on whether they have discovered health and safety!!!.
Stephen
My tip – take a glass cutter and scribe round your lens cap! Only joking ! Have a great trip and happy shooting.
Hi,
I received the email about using the macro and super macro settings.
I use these settings all the time – they are awesome! However I’ve always found when using the super macro that if I extend the lens to full zoom, it can never focus on the object and I get the red cross. If I half press the shutter it makes no difference in focusing the object.
Am I doing something wrong?
I tend to look like a nut because I just put the camera really close the object (such as snails). Obviously this is not possible when trying to capture a butterfly…
Thanks
Also – I’m looking at getting the Raynox DCR 250 however it doesn’t say anywhere that this fits onto the hs10.
Just wanting to confirm it does before I buy it from overseas.
Thanks
Hi Kudzi.
I think the answer to your zoom/super macro problem is not to use the zoom so much! Theres a limit to how much zoom you can use and keep your image sharp, but you can still get in very close. I think for subjects like butterflies, I would use the standard macro and crop the result, or play around with the x2 magnification combined with macro.
The Raynox is designed to fit any camera, it has spring-loaded sliders which grip the inside rim of the lens – when you release the sliders, the Raynox stays attached to the lens. You’ll find that you have to move well away from the subject – several inches – to get it in focus, its quite weird when you first try it! But very effective.
Hi Kudzi
To answer your question you can only use super-macro at wide angle and within the range 1cm – 1m. You can use the telephoto with regular macro in the range of 2m – 5m. All these settings are given in the manual on page 130 in the ‘specifications’ list.
I agree that the macro and super-macro are great especially if you want to create a good ‘bokeh’ [blurred background].
Hope this helps.
Thank you Paul & Peter.
I have been doing the pics right from your comment Peter & I’m going to purchase the Raynox. Does anyone know if the ones from ebay with free post for $89.95 are genuine?
Peter I haven’t gone into the wide angle so I’ll look into that – thank you.
I got my Raynox from Amazon, about £40. I haven’t heard of any fake ones, tho don’t take my word for it!
If you want to buy from Ebay, check the seller’s rating, and if you’re still not sure, why not just ask them if the product is genuine.
And I read some of the reviews on Amazon, there are a couple of tips on using the lens, might be useful to know.
Hi, I have tried the Raynox DCR 250, and it works fantastic with the HS10. The pictures are amazingly sharp.
HS 10 users may be interested in a freeware programme called Quick Media Converter which I found yesterday. I was able to easily convert an HD video taken on my HS10 to avi and wmv. It does seem to have many options.
I don’t think it has any editing options though. There is also SUPER © – if you can find the download on the site!!
Hi Moose,
Do you know how the new HS20 differs to the HS10
Bryan – One hardware problem seems to have been eased in the HS20 – the “brow overlap” of the flash over the twist-zoom has been moved back slightly. The other HS10 hardware problems are continued – the easily-broken plastic tripod mount (that is not covered under Fuji “Warranty”, as it requires the replacing of the whole camera case), the jerky twist-zoom in video, that prevents zooming while video-ing, so on.
I don’t know if they made the Fast-Continuous selection ‘sticky’ – as it is, it’s most infuriating…
The idiotic EVF/LCD “Auto-Changer” remains – everyone I know of, turns that Off in the Menus – as well as being very annoying, it’s a battery-hog.
The 10Mpix BSI-CMOS sensor in the HS10, which gives it the good – for a P&S – low-noise / high-ISO abilities, is replaced with 16Mpix on a minutely larger sensor.
That is – 60% more receptors on a 7% larger sensor – about a 45% higher receptor density on the sensor. And more Mpix than most Entry and Lower Midrange DSLRs have, 12-14Mpix – and those are on a 12-15 times larger sensor.
As the other Brands – Canon, Nikon, Panasonic, etc – are having growing noise and low-light problems at 14Mpix on the 1/2.3″ sensors, and Fuji has gone to 16Mpix (first on a P&S?) – they’ve had to try to compensate for the receptor crowding….
To do this, they’ve added their EXR technology, which enables “pairing” of receptors on the sensor – so it then works as an 8Mpix sensor when low-light / high-ISO, or rapid action, as in the Fast Continuous, functions, are needed.
Users, of course, have to learn how the EXR works, with boostable Dynamic Range, and adjustable noise reduction for JPEGs.
What the EXR does for RAW files, if anything, I haven’t been able to discover, yet.
Fuji Australia claims that this is the first time that EXR has been used with CMOS sensors, so what it does in the HS20 should at least be “interesting”.
My opinion only – but for those who have an HS10 – which does very good images, and good low-light, high-ISO, for a P&S, once you learn to “tell it what to do” – they’ll probably look long and hard indeed, before considering the HS20 as an “upgrade”.
I like my HS10 very much, even with its “niggles” – it’s taught me to use Manual Focus in both Shutter Priority and Manual modes, handheld, and I’m still having a lot of fun with it.
But rather too many of the HS10 problems carry-over to the HS20 – and 16Mpix on a 1/2.0″ sensor – plus the experimental use of the EXR on the CMOS sensor, apparently to compensate for that – tends to leave lot that “remains to be seen”.
The Full Reviews from those sites which make honest commentaries, should be most educational…..
Dave.
Bryan – The HS20-EXR Manual is now available at:
- www.fujifilmusa.com/shared/bin/finepix_hs20exr_manual_01.pdf
That also suggests that there’ll be Full Reviews coming shortly.
Dave.
hey there…for some unknown reason,i couldnt post a comment here http://www.cameratips.com/hs10/fuji-hs10-hd-video-sample so i post it in the forum…i have a problem with hs10 video…it jumps some second when playing on pc,though when watching it on my camera,it seems great…could anyone tell me how to fix it?
thank you
Irene,
I have the same problem on my laptop, but not on my PC tower. I believe it is because Pc is much more powerful and handles playback of HD video much better.
Have you tried it through TV via the cable provided with camera?
its your video card on youer pc. I had the same issue, i down sized my hd recording the hs10 to 720p (although its called 1080p on the fuji hs10 and 1080p is called 1920 i believe)
when i down sized it solved the issue. It is you pc not the camera.
Jason – What we actually have in the HS10 is H264/MOV video. The actual video is H264 – which is a subset of MPEG4 called MPEG4-AVC [Advanced Video Coding.] The “MOV” part is Apple’s proprietary video “container”.
The HS10 does Full HD, 1920 x 1080, at a relatively low bitrate (Mbps), and Std HD, 1280 x720, at a better bitrate for the frame size, so is better quality. If you check exactly 1-minute of video at each level, the file-size for the 1920 x 1080 isn’t much bigger than that for the 1280 x 720 – although Full HD has more than twice as many pixels per frame.
If you are converting the video for standard (not HD) DVD, the 1280 x 720 is not only better quality, it’s closer to the 720 x 400 (404 in some apps) – needed for DVD compliant standard, and is also much easier for most Home-PCs to convert.
The 1920 x 1080 should play smoothly in Windows with a 512MB or better graphics card, or in Linux with a 256MB+ card (Linux has fewer overheads than Windows, and pre-processes video in software.)
The 1280 x 720 should play smoothly in Windows with 256MB and up, cards.
You can use the free Avidemux (for Windows, Linux and Mac) – to convert either level of the HS10′s videos. There are Filters for Colour, De-Noising, Sharpness, changing Frame-Size, etc. Also to add the black bars needed to play 16:9 vide “letterboxed” in a 4:3 aspect-ratio TV.
Avidemux will produce a DVD-compliant “Filename.mpeg(2)” output. You can Append (join) these in Avidemux, with basic transitions, or use the *.mpeg(2) files in a video-editor.
If you do join your clips in Avidemux, and get the larger *.mpeg(2) “movie” file, you’ll need to create a DVD-compatible fileset or ISO. You can do that with DVD-Styler (free for Windows, Linux and Mac) – and with Styler you can also create Title frames per video, and put multiple videos on one DVD, each with a “selectable” name-line on a “Main Titles” frame.
As with Avidemux, DVD-Styler is easy to use, and online there are Tutorials and Guides for both. Avidemux also has a User Forum, which can be very helpful.
Dave.
hey there…i thought that a mail would come when a reply was here,so sorry for my delay.Keven,no i havent tried it on TV but i guess you are right,it’s because the pc can handle videos better.but i think i found the solution!i played it with quicktime,and that’s why it was somehow jumping…i run it on media player(classic) and it runs fine..the only problem now,it that i comes up a bit darker…and because of the *.mov extention it can be edited instantly so either i have to transform it(and it gets darken) or find an MOV editor(but i cant find a non problematic)..i will try “avidemux” suggested in on of the comments,but if anyone knows anything better let me know!Oh btw here http://kuollutsielu.deviantart.com/ you can see my gallery and check HS10 performance…
I bring some very disappointing news from Fuji today. I quote:
“We are sorry to advise that there is no date for another firmware, should the camera require another firmware update, then will this be available at the following link and we apologise for any inconvenience caused.”
I am using HS10 since last couple of months for bird photography.
Many times it happens that when light is little less or bird is camouflage in the trees, then camera is not able to focus the bird and I miss the shot :(
Can I manually focus objects using HS10 ? How can I use that effectively ?
Thanks in advance for the help.
Hi Manan
Yes you can use manual focus, however all bridge and many dslr cameras have problems when in low light situations. I hesitate to say use a tripod considering the flimsiness of the mounting screw (there have been reports of the casing cracking around the mount and Fuji do not consider it a repair under warranty) but for wildlife photography a tripod is often necessary. This means you can use wide apertures and slow shutter speeds without blurring. You also mentioned birds in trees. Foliage is not something the autofocus handles well. If possible try to minimise the background by zooming and focusing on the branch not the leaves. A bird landing on that branch is them more likely to be in focus (use focus lock – page 36 in the manual).
Wildlife photography is a complete art in itself. I am sure someone on this forum is much more experienced than me and will be able to offer more suggestions.
Manan – Yes, as Peter says, the HS10 (and HS20) – tripod mount is a distinct worry. Try to get a tripod shoe that has a wide base, to spread the load on the HS10 body plastic. And don’t be too “firm” tightening the screw. Fuji has a very bad design flaw, there, as long-zoom cameras, by their very nature, will be used on tripods often.
HS10 Manual Focus – actually, it’s the best I’ve used on a P&S. You can turn the frame-centre “magnification” On/Off in the Menus. I find it’s good, On, with the camera on tripod, using the LCD, but hand-held (I’m doing quite a lot hand-held in Manual or Shutter Priority) – using the EVF, Off can be better with some backgrounds. Also – make sure the diopter adjustment (on the left of the EVF) – is correct for your vision – 1 click can make a noticeable difference.
Using MF, zoom to the length you’re going to use, aim at the target, and press the AE/AF-Lock button (below the Red Video button.) The camera then uses the AF function to “approximate” the focus, and beeps. If the framing / composition isn’t quite right, adjust that and the zoom, and press the button again for the new image. Then just “rock” the focus-ring on the barrel, either way, until best-focus “centres”.
On a tripod use the 2-second Timer to avoid “hands-on” vibes from pressing the shutter button down. That also can help, handheld, using a rest, etc.
With the HS10, “noise” is quite low to ISO 400 – and not high at 800. If you shoot RAW, using ISO 800 and 1600 is quite okay, as either will “de-noise” well. It’s best to use very small amounts of the “de-noiser” – a “fine” setting if your program has it, repeated – rather than a large “coarse” de-noise amount at once – as that can “go too far” and smear details.
If you have shot JPEGs – you “can” do a little de-noising – gently – but do change the image format from “lossy” JPEG to a non-lossy format – PSD, XCF, TIFF – first.
Dave.
Peter – Product Laws will obviously differ in various locations, but in Australia, under the Fair Trading Laws (Consumer Affairs in some States here) – products must be designed and built “adequately for the intended purpose”.
I’ve been talking to the Dept of Fair Trading here in New South Wales (State) – re the HS10 (and now HS20) – plastic tripod mount. Does the camera, with batteries, etc, as will be used – weigh over 250 grams? Yes. Did it cost over $300.00? Yes – it was $545.00, here.
Is the tripod mount easily replaceable – e.g, can you remove and replace it with basic tools – with a relatively low cost spare part from the manufacturer? No – on the HS10, the tripod mount is made into the main plastic casing of the camera, so to repair the mount, the camera must be dis-assembled, and the whole plastic case replaced.
Is this covered under Warranty? No, Fuji Australia says it is not, as the whole camera must be re-built to fix it.
According to the Department of Fair Trading here, therefore – the HS10 design is “not adequate for the intended design purpose and use”.
So – should the mount thread “slog-out” – or the mount crack through to the – just 3mm away – battery housing, Users will have a valid claim for repair, replacement of the item with a “design adequate” same-uses item, and where this is not available or has been discontinued, will be entitled to a Full Refund of the Purchase Price – this doesn’t include any “detachable accessories”, and the “Original Purchase Receipt” must be presented.
As this problem is a design error or fault – claims are not limited to the duration of the Maker’s Warranty Period.
Dave.
David
Thanks for your post. I was reading on another blog a UK HS10 user who had experienced a cracked casing. Although he had purchased Fuji’s super warranty, he was told that repairs to the casing were not covered. As for the ‘fit for purpose’ issue, he was advised that the design includes a mount for the ‘occasional’ use of a tripod and Fuji could not be held responsible for over zealous use or misuse through over-tightening or use of an incorrect tripod head! This seems to me a total cop-out for, as you say, a bad design flaw on a £400 pound camera. Such a shame because it has been the best non-dslr I have ever owned.
Peter – Yes, the complaints about the HS10 mount are jumpimg up all over, now, aren’t they….
How dare Fuji claim that the HS10 mount is only for “occasional tripod use”…?
Any Bridge Zoom camera over 20x – particularly 26x and up – is going to be put on a tripod often, for use at or near full zoom at long range.
They ALL will be – simply because it’s too hard, or impossible, to get really sharp focus without it – as these types of cameras are so very sensitive to the tiniest vibration or movement at or near full zoom.
Just a millimetre of movement at lens-end translates to a LOT of “blur” at 200-metres, let alone 500!
Also – if you use the AEB function with the intention of making HDRs – at any zoom level – a tripod is needed. With the HS10 – as the AEB only works over half of the Exposure Compensation range – that is, from -1EV to +1EV – if you want to use the full -2FV to +2EV (and/or want more than 3 images for HDR), you can’t use the AEB function anyway….
You can get 3 or 5 (or more, but 5 works very well) – images by using a tripod, and the -2EV to +2EV Exposure Compensation.
Actually, this is another firmware error from Fuji – my 3 year old Canon SX10 (and the SX20, and new SX30) – does do up to -2EV to +2EV as a standard AEB function. When it is firmly on a tripod – and it can be, FIRMLY – as it has a very solid and replaceable METAL tripod mount.
I’ve seen elsewhere (do we really need to “wonder” any more why Fuji didn’t send Moose a pre-release HS10…? Honest comments from expert reviewers, they clearly don’t need…!) – that the HS20 repeats the plastic mount…
And it’s also becoming clearer that Fuji doesn’t test early versions of cameras with actual people able to use cameras. If they did – the Jerk-O-Matic twist-zoom in Video would have been fixed. And it would have been the EVF that was upgraded, not the LCD.
The HS20 inherits the bit low-end EVF of the HS10 – the better LCD is obviously aimed at the “trendy” viewfinder-less low to mid-rang P&S users – upgrading to HS20 – so at 30x zoom, they can hold their HS20 way-out in front of them, “steadily” – as they’ll also be avoiding putting their flimsy-mount HS20s on their “occasional use” tripods….!
I doubt that makers like Fuji, who have flawed designs like the HS10/HS20 tripod mount – will be prepared to correct the designs, and/or test cameras in an “average user” environment, until a lot of people in places that have Govt-backed Consumer Quality Departments, subch as our Dept of Fair Trading, go to their Depts, and have repairs or camera replacements / full refunds – enforced.
Meanwhile – I’ve been looking carefully at my HS10, for something that might be done about a plastic mount problem. If you look closely at the underside of you HS10 – there are 4 tiny screws – 2 either side of the tripod mount – the other 2 about 55mm along the base.
There is quite a large flat expanse of base, there – with a removable silver sticker. If the user is handy with tools – or has a friend who is – they could craft a hard tough plastic “block”, about 10mm thick, corners neatly rounded, that would fit just inside the area of the screws.
Buy a Canon replacement metal tripod mount, about $17.50, from a Canon dealer or store that repairs Canon. Remove the metal part that mounts into the Canon camera metal frame.
This will leave a thin square plate, a bit bigger than the metal ‘tube’ that has the mounting screw thread inside. Drill the plasic block to just snug-fit the ‘tube’. Then make a slight recess in the block, the size of the square plate.
When it fits flush with the block – cement-glue the top of the plate and sides of the tube, press-in, and allow adequate time to dry. Then cement-glue the block to the base of the HS10, and allow to dry.
That will give a quite strong mount – now replaceable – so the HS10 can continue to be used on a tripod.
Just in case – as now with the unreliable Fuji mount – when the camera is on a tripod – use the strap – or another “tether” – to fix the camera to the top end of the tripod – so if an ‘incident’ occurs – the camera can’t drop to the ground.
- If some enterprising camera-repair shops got onto this idea – they might do quite well out of charging, say, $50.00, for the “mod”.
Dave.
Hi,
I have a Finepix HS10,and have down loaded the Fujifilm CD,and now it wont let me down load my photos from camera to computer.It comes up with Error (code 2):DM.C
I cannot access my photos..I would really appreciate it if some one can help.
Thanks,Sandra.
Hello Sandra
I must be honest I ditched my CD. First the Myfinepix Studio loaded but wouldn’t run. The Silkypix works but is a load of rubbish and the manual was in gibberish when opened. If you haven’t got a card reader installed in your computer, it only costs a few pounds to buy a plug-in card reader. They are very reliable and much faster than connecting your camera. I have never had problems using one.
Hope this helps.
Help!!!!
Hi im really hoping that someone can help me, my wife bought me the Hs-10 camera for christmas, now im used to point and shoot cameras so was really excited when i got this one, however i dont appear to be having much success with it :O( we have horses so i was hoping to be able to get some good action shots, but everything is blurred, and even my shots of things stood still are a little hit and miss if they will come out…
Please i really want to get used to this camera can anyone offer any advice at all to me.
Ive trawled through numerous websites with no joy :O( any help would be happily recieved.
tony
Tony – The HS10 is quite able to do those things – but you have to be able to tell it what to do. Apart from basic snaps, the HS10 isn’t at its best in Auto or Program, particularly not on moving targets.
Unless you’re good with Manual mode, Shutter Priority will be best. You’ll need to keep the Shutter speed up, and use Fast Continuous, as the HS10 doesn’t have a Panning shots mode. You’ll need to know how the Light / Exposure Triangle works. That is, the relationship between ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed. There’s a good guide to it at:
- w-w.cambridgeincolour.com/tutorials.htm
Under ‘Cameras’ on that page the second item, “Understanding Camera Exposure”, explains it, with diagrams.
The “10fps” – which is actually about 12fps after firmware 1.02 – is too fast for that sort of track-and-shoot, then follow-through – type of shooting. Try the 7 or 5fps speeds. You will need to keep the shutter speed well up – 1/125th and faster.
Use the EVF, not the LCD, of course, and not too much zoom, or targeting becomes more difficult. At first have the metering at Spot, and Focus at Centre. You need to be moving the camera at the same speed as the target just before you begin Continuous Shooting – focus until the confirming ‘beep’ – then still tracking the target, full-down to shoot, and continue tracking until after the camera stops shooting. It does take some experimenting – but see how you go.
There’s a piece on Continuous Shooting at:
- w-w.digital-photography-school.com/how-to-use-continuos-shooting-mode-on-a-digital-camera
Dave.
David
thanks for the reply, i will have a play this weekend and will provide an update as soon as i can.
thanks again
t
hi there fellas!! just got my hs10 today but its funny though.. First, I choose nikon p100 as my first cam, however, I end up buying the hs10..
First It’s really cool eventhough it’s really heavy but all in all I commend hs10 for being such A friendly camera.. But, I would like someone who will advise on how I will use my camera as It’s my first to buy a camera and am would like to practice to be good on it as well.. thanks for appreciating my comment…
Mhel, welcome to the HS10 forum. As far as using your camera, you might just start on fully automatic and see how that does for you. Read through the manual (online and/or CD) and determine what you want your camera to do; and then see how to do it. Watch this forum, and view past entries as they may hold information for you. And last, don’t be afraid to ask specific questions on the forum. Help is always there.
Norman
Thanks norman… actually, I would like to ask you abt. this camera. Though I’m reading its manual however, how would you set the camera if you want to take a pic. w/c a blurry background? Literally, its like a photo taken by a DSLR…
Mhel, like any camera you have the “triangle”; aperature, shutter speed and ISO (sensitivity). In order to create bokeh or blur the background, you must increase the opening (aperature) as well as the power of the lens. For instance, open the aperature and step back to the point where your zoom is increased. The longer the zoom the more specific the targeted subject the less the background will appear in focus. I hope that I am explaining it to you in a way that you can understand. On an SLR with live view through the lens you can see this before you take the photo. With an EVF it is somewhat more difficult. But simply, the larger the aperature (smaller f stop) and the more telephoto used, the greater the blurred back ground. You may have to use a tripod or some other support in low light situations. Hope that this helps.
Norman
HELP!
Im pulling my hair out at the mo, loving HS10 but not the RAF format? please can anyone help me inport and view raw files in lightroom 3?
I cannot seem to convert them even to DNG in lightroom, or adobe converter (6.3)
Kev
Keven – Can’t say for DNG Converter 6.3, but 6.2 will convert HS10 RAFs to DNG in Windows XP.
For some reasons, Fuji seems to have a “new” RAF format for each new camera they release. Also the EXR cameras seem to have different RAFs from the non-EXR ones. So the HS20-EXR will likely be different from the HS10.
I have seen elsewhere that the latest Photoshop CS5 and latest Lightroom do have plugin compatibility for HS10 RAFs.
I’m well aware the Adobe didn’t do a Windows DNG Converter for HS10 RAFs for rather a long tine – because as a stopgap when I first had my HS10, I was trying to use the then DNG Converter under Wine in Linux.
However, as things happen very quickly once there’s a need, in OpenSource, the folk who do DCRAW rapidly updated it for HS10 RAFs (and some other brands) – so, long before Adobe did a DNG Converter version for HS10 RAFs, in Linux, all programs which use DCRAW for RAW image files, have been working well with them.
That includes Gimp, UFRaw, UFRaw-Gimp (the Gimp plugin), Digikam, etc. I just use Digikam directly – it has many functions, all with main and fine-tune levels, and exports to 8/16-bit TIFF – okay for either Gimp, or Photoshop-7 which I run in Wine.
If you’re still having problems, or can’t get the latest CS5 Photoshop and Lightroom – and do have a spare or older PC, you might consider putting a Linux install on that, and using Digikam to do the initial HS10 RAF PP on that – save as 8/16-bit TIFF, then transfer to your Windows PC for fine-tuning as TIFF or PSD, convert to JPEG, Share, and so on.
Warning! – If you have used your Linux install on the Internet (you might, because it’s much faster browsing and downloading) – you might have Viruses, Trojans, etc, in your Linux User Logon…!
These don’t affect Linux at all – in fact, you wouldn’t know they’re there – UNTIL you transfer files to a Windows PC – where they’ll run havoc! So do install (with Synaptic, from the Distro’s Repository) – whichever AV that Distro offers, to check directories of files you intend to transfer to Windows. And when the directories arrive in Windows – check again with the Windows AV program.
Dave.
Thanks Dave for the comprehensive reply,
I have managed to solve prob via your advice with DNG converter 6.2.
I am annoyed that I have to download data from card, then convert and finally edit in light room, although only because, as a complete novice, I had been ignorant of the mechanics of photography for any more than a point and shoot ‘player’.
I have been enjoying experimenting so far tho, I just hope I get the odd photo that I can really be proud of.
Kev
Adding to David’s comment …
ufraw runs natively in Windows, rather nicely.
From http://ufraw.sourceforge.net/Install.html, scrolling down to windows takes you to 2. and a link to http://sourceforge.net/projects/ufraw/files/ufraw/ufraw-0.18/ufraw-0.18-setup.exe/download.
Perhaps useful.
Don’t sweat it all too much though … you want to copy everything from the camera off somewhere safe. Then you can use this, or your DNG Converter, to extract from there to a working directory. (Presumably compressed tif’s.) You’re also going to want an output directory (e.g. ‘Web’) anyways, where you flatten down to .jpg’s and a reasonable size (2k?), before sending your images off, anyways.
Multiple copies, raw, seems to be just the way the world is, at the moment, anyways.
I am trying to upgrade 1.02 firmware to 1.04. I have insertwd 2 set of new alkaine batteries and 1 set of fully charged rechargeable batteries and I get the same results of please install new batteries. How can I get around this problem.
Hi Stu. I have upgraded firmware 3 times on HS10 with new batteries installed and I have also got the same message, but I just continue anyway and have had no problems. If you are really worried that you might corrupt your camera, then a mains unit is the only answer.
Stu, this is a direct quote from Keven, another forum member who was having the same difficulty.
“AHA!
I found a post commenting on the need for a Sandisk memory card for firmware update. Lo and behold it worked. Chucked a 4gb Class 4 in and straight away 1.4 instaled.
All I have to do is figure out what has changed. Seems quicker already, along with tips to start up in manual and turn off auto settings like red eye, HS movie etc…”
Norman
Thanks Norman,
I tried to reply to this question twice this morn but could not for some reason.
Anyway, to add to quote there is a menu option to choose the battery type inserted, maybe this will help with the error message?
Kev
If the batteries were to run flat before the firmware upgrade process completed you would be left with a useless piece of plastic.
I suspect that It is simply a default message from Fuji to make sure that everyone double checks they have fully charged batteries before they start the firmware update process in order to safeguard your camera
hey guys, I have tried to adjust dymamic range following David D exelent guide here in Sept ’10.
However, whatever I try I have all DR options greyed out. Im wondering if I got a duff camera at the mo. I am struggling to do these little things that should be possible.
On the plus side I have uploaded my first photos and have entered a comp :)
(see here: http://go.camtips.com/kevensphoto)
Feel free to comment
Hi Keven
There are 3 options in DR – 100, 200 and 400. They should be available in the shooting menu in modes other than full-auto. If they are greyed out then I suggest you give Fuji technical a ring or e-mail. They are usually quite helpful.
Can you confirm your profile name on myfinepix. I would like to view your pictures but the only Kevens listed show no posts having been made. Thanks
The dynamic range 100 200 and 400 are linked to the iso speed, Change iso to 200 and you will see dynamic range option appear for 200, also the same with 400.
Keven – I bet you’re trying to set the DR with the camera running ISP 100….! Won’t do it – you have to raise the ISO setting to 200, to set 200%, and 400 to set 400%.
If you set 200% while in ISO 200, then go to user-mode, you’ll find that it’s “sticky” – select ISO 100 via top-left button – and you have ISO 100 without DR – then select ISO 200 – and it’s with 200% DR.
The EVF and LCD show what it’s doing. As there’s little difference in ‘noise’ between ISO 100 and 200 – you can use the ISO 100 > 200 external button fast change as a sort of quick On-Off for std shots with and without the DR.
If you set 400% while the camera is in ISO 400 – it “changes-down” when you button-select ISO 200, to 200%, and at ISO 100, Off.
Once again – Fuji’s “economising” by recycling pages from previous camera manuals, then not adding the HS10 detail information – is not at all helpful.
The Bridge Camera maker that goes back to putting a printed Manual in the packing-boxes of their over-$500.00 (in Australia) cameras – will win a lot of sales… It’d be a very big selling point – “Includes actual Manual you can take with you when using your complicated new Camera.”
Dave.
Peter, my profile name is kzge I believe. (artylarry on flickr- could do with some helpful friends)
I am thinking an email may be needed due to the fact that I have tried all settings I can think of to enable DR options including following your advice guys and reset.
Am I loosing out much without it?
David I have found this site much more informative than the manual anyway, it is not particularly clear I find.
Thanks for replies guys.
:D
Keven – While Fuji isn’t alone in dropping printed manuals from even its top-priced P&S cameras – Canon and Nikon, etc, have also done that – Fuji should be ashamed of itself regarding the pathetic HS10 PDF “manual”.
I have the old Fuji S2000HD, too – and when I was looking at a downloaded HS10 manual before buying the camera, I thought, on many pages, “Hello – this looks familiar…!”
When I found and opened the S2000HD manual – the “familiar” was soon explained… Many of the diagrams and graphics in the HS10 manual are the same as, or only slightly modified from, those in the S2000HD manual.
Others – and some of the text – seem not to relate to either S2000HD or HS10 – perhaps to another camera – or cameras, in Fuji’s last 5 years range.
As the HS10 “manual” is so woefully inadequate as instructions or explanations for what is a quite complex camera with many functions – I’m realising that it probably contributes a lot to the “confused owners” returning so many HS10s to the shops as being unusable or “bad” cameras…
Also the reputation the HS10 has around many Forums for having lousy images, JPEG or RAW, and statements such as “It was too late to return it after I realised it couldn’t take an un-blurred picture of Fido the Dog at 5 metres – but I’d never buy another Fuji camera…”
Actually – the HS10 takes darned good images – but only after you’ve experimented and visited forums – to find out how it functions – and are able to “TELL it what to do…!”
A lot of that dislike / negativity, I do feel – has to do with 3 things – it’s unlikely Fuji had anyone test it properly out in actual field use – or ever used the pathetic, off-centre, 3mm-from-battery-door, PLASTIC tripod mount on a real tripod – before releasing it to the public. That – they should have fixed at early field-test stage…
They certainly didn’t have anyone test the Exposure-Control-less and Manual-Focus-less “video” and its Jerk-O-Matic twist-zoon effect.
Then – the PDF “manual” is dreadful… But that there’s no printed version – to take out first those first weeks when learning to use this complex camera – that’s inexcusable and unacceptable.
For an AUD$545.00 (same as USDs at present) high-end P&S camera not to have a pocketable or at least bag-able printed manual seems to show that Fuji’s yet another Corporation to which their Profits matter more than their Products – or their Buyers.
I do wonder just how many tens of thousands of possible Buyers will avoid the HS20 – or return it in a few days – when as well as it being as complex as the HS10 – there’s also the EXR technology to learn to use properly.
I was really expecting some of Moose’s excellent guides and explanations on the new HS20 – but it’s now clear that Fuji couldn’t be bothered sending him one… Not at all a good omen for a new Product.
Dave.
Hi again Keven. Now it is me who is being a plank. I completely forgot about the ISO connection when I gave you my answer. It’s a good job we have guys like David to put us right. By the way, I still can’t get at your pictures.
Hey Peter,
No probs, still cant access DR! Will keep lugging away at it :$
I have been getting frustrated with flickr also, as couldnt find a way to search me.
Finally I have cracked it. If you are a flickr member (free account)
click on contacts tab, then people search, then search for artylarry.
hope this works.
Im looking forward to experimenting with some ‘welders glass filters’ (ebay no: 170607391510) (£2:10)
For long exposure shots in the daylight. recommended in magazine. Anyone tried this before?
No, not tried this, but sounds interesting. Would like to see your results Keven.
Has anyone managed to take any photos with the HS10 with a bokeh backround?? I have tried playing around with the F/s but with no success. I understand that it is a bridge camera and this can prove to be difficult. Has anyone any advice/ tips as it is extremely frustrating
Tom
This is with macro, handheld (see here: http://go.camtips.co/kevensphoto). Look for owl portrait (on your right- blue links) there are some good tips I will be trying with my friends 2ft tall snowy owl soon. Also want to experiment ‘in the field’ at the weekend as new to hs10 and photography in general.
Hi Tom. Good bokeh can be hard to achieve with the HS10, but here are my tips. Use aperture priority with a wide aperture while using regular macro mode and telephoto zoom as you get less depth of field – remember to keep your subject in the range of 2m to 5m. Also try to move your subject further away from the background (impossible if you are shooting wildlife).
brilliant thanks guys
Hey again, finally finished reading/ copy-paste this forum. lol, some great tips. I have learnt tons n last week since owning hs10.
Only annoyance for me (think im being a plank) is that I still cannot access the 2x digital zoom as discussed on here. Finally managed to update firmware, 1.4, but still no joy?
Hi Keven. The HS10 is not equipped with digital zoom as such. You may be thinking of the ‘instant zoom’ feature on page 42 of the manual where the centre part of the image is enlarged for clarity.
Hi Peter, thanks for your reply.
I was referring to David Doaks reply to a question on November 24th.
”You get to the 2x digital zoom with the up “^” Arrow on the 4-way pad.
A box then shows in the EVF or LCD, showing the area that will be in the photo, with the area around the box dimmed.
It works in all modes including Auto. But it doesn’t work with RAW, just JPEG”
Is this the instant Zoom you are referring to? If so I feel better that im not being a plank. lol. Although a little disappointed, as i have seen comments regarding 60X zoom.
”I tend to use a tripod and Manual mode with Manual Focus when trying for images at 40-60x!” this also from DD’s reply.
Hi again Keven. No you are not being a plank. Yes this is the instant zoom feature. The area inside the rectangle is digitally enlarged which is not quite the same as zooming in digitally. If you look at your viewfinder before pressing the ^ key at an object and then compare the object size after pressing the ^ key you will see no difference. It is only after you press the shutter that the image is digitally enlarged. Therefore you cannot see the result until you review the picture. With true digital zoom the camera behaves just like the optical zoom but digitally – in other words, you see the effects through the viewfinder as you zoom. Hope this makes sense to you.
One word of warning though, as it says in the manual, the quality of pictures taken using instant zoom will not be as good.
Thanks Peter, think I will stay clear of that one then!
Hello moose,
Thanks again for this website. i have learned alot but at times \i am still very frustrated with this camera. I have been use to basic camera with no ajusting anything.
I have been trying different settings and getting lots of info from your site….is there away to reply and interact on the beginner link on your website or just here on the forum??? I would like to ask some questions more direction/tips from the thread —
Scott October 20, 2010 at 7:51 pm
I followed all the steps but couldnt agjust the f/s. This thread was directions to get a shot of a night sky??
Thanks
Holly
Im pretty new to all this too, but i am starting to pick things up, i think this is the only way to interact on here
Don’t know if you’ve tried this but, but you have to be in the right setting to change the aperture, if you turn the selector to the C, M, A or P position you will be able to change it using the dial to the immediate right of the setting selector
James
Moose, what is the approved method of linking to photographs please?
HI, great site. new to photography and hs10 is my first proper camera that I am looking forward to playing with.
I need to learn how (and what) Apperature, shutter and iso etc work in relation to each other so any tips are greatfully recieved.
Anyway, problem at the monent is that I cannot find a download for 1.4 firmware, always says 1.2 and doesnt work.
Any ideas. I have tried the link on fuji site?
thanks, please keep up the good work.
Keven
Hi Keven.
Have you got the right link?
Heres the one I used: (link:fujifilm.com/support/digital_cameras/software/firmware/s/finepix_hs10/fupd.html)
(just connect the ‘co’ to the ‘m’ and paste it all into your browser.
You have to accept their Licence Agreement., so click on
“Firmware Upgrade User License Agreement” and when you Accept, it takes you to the download page.
As for using the camera, I tell everyone now, theres tons of info on this page about how to use a digital camera, have a look at the advice given.
Hi Paul, thanks for quick reply.
I have downloaded that link 4 times, as well as the transfer program. I have tried using SD card and Via USB and cannot get firmware to update.The Transfer prog is V 1.2, firmware .DAT file doesn’t state what version.
When I use transfer program I get I/O error, and via SD it does not recognise firmware at all. I am using a brand new Transend 8GB class 10 card.
As for help with pics, I have taked the advice and started a word doc for top tips and am experimenting with camera as I go.
Have uploaded a couple onto flikr in hope I get some ‘constructive critisism’ lol.
Keven
AHA!
I found a post commenting on the need for a Sandisk memory card for firmware update. Lo and behold it worked. Chucked a 4gb Class 4 in and straight away 1.4 instaled.
All I have to do is figure out what has changed. Seems quicker already, along with tips to start up in manual and turn off auto settings like red eye, HS movie etc…
I have recently purchased the Hs10 and i absolutely love it, I’m pretty new to photography but have always been really interested. I’m going traveling in 2 weeks and would like to know how to get the best out of the camera. Despite having the booklet with the camera its pretty useless at explaining, and the CD with it doesn’t work.
Plan on putting links to photo’s if i manage to get some good ones.
Would like to know, Is it possible to change the Aperture and Shutter speed in manual mode? also if anyone could brief me on how to get shots where the image looks still but background is blurred that would be brilliant.
if any one has got any links to the main manual online that would superb.
Thank-You
James
Hi James. The link you require is included in the blue item list to the right of your post.
Thanks Paul
Moose must be a very busy guy these days!
Paul – Looks like Fuji “forgot” to send Moose a pre-release HS20 as they’d promised. If they had, I can’t imagine that he wouldn’t have mentioned it.
Just as they “don’t bother” sending “CameraLabs” Forum and Site Fuji Cameras to Review. Odd, because the CameraLabs many-pages comprehensive Reviews are the best on the Internet.
However, at least some other Sites have had “Preview” looks at the HS20 – which folk can easily Google for… And if the HS20 release isn’t “delayed” until April or May due to “some issues”, as Sites are saying – there should be full Reviews soon.
From photos available of the HS20, the “visible” improvement seems to be that it now has external access to RAW. The lens and twist-zoom is the same, so not much good for Video – whether that now has Brightness and Focus controls or not, and the Tripod screw-mount is still plastic, and within 3mm of the battery door, so on. For a 30x Zoom camera that’s going to spend a lot of time on a tripod – that’s not too welcome.
The 16Mpix on the tiny 1/2.0″ sensor seems to worry a lot – even with the adding of EXR functions to it, so it can combine receptors and function as an 8Mpix camera to work faster…
The “projected” price at my local dealer here in Sydney, where I bought my HS10, is “Not much more than the HS10 was”. Which is AUD$545.00 (same at present as the USD.)
At the same place the “run-out” HS10s are now AUD$480.00. In the US it’s now priced at US$329.00…
I’m starting to get the impression that those of us who bought the HS10 – and those folk still buying it – might be glad they do have the HS10, before it vanishes from the stores.
Dave.
Howdy David and Paul,
Yes, I’ve been swamped with photography work (my day job)…definitely a good thing!
In regards to the HS20 and my relationship with Fuji or any other brand for that matter.
I do have friends at many of the major brands (Fuji, Canon, Nikon, etc…), but believe it or not…I don’t get and “free” samples like the big boys. Every camera, lens, accessory that’s talked about on my site has been purchased by me.
I can’t comment on the availability or image quality of the HS20, because frankly I haven’t heard or seen anything from my Fuji friends. Will keep you guys updated if I get any updates.
Hope all is well with my HS10 buddies!
- Moose
Hi David and Moose.
Well, I – like a lot of people – am just waiting for the HS20 to come out and get reviewed. It was the zoom attracted me to the HS10, bought it almost on spec, only saw a couple of reviews. I fancy buying a new camera this year, but doubt if it will be the HS20, just more of the same disappoinments I think, like the so slow ‘continuous’ mode and slooow RAW mode.
Thinking maybe the Canon SX30 (have i got the model right there?) but having had a play with my son’s Canon DLSR, am seriously consdering one of those, even a second-hand body would do, with a good, new zoomable lens.
I recently bought a Hoya CPL filter. Wanted to know when and how you use the rotating part of the filter .. what is the effect of rotating it.
Ravi, what can a polarizing filter do for you? Among other things it can darken the sky, remove reflections from water, and make foliage appear less shiny. Color saturation is also significantly enhanced. It is the only filter for use with color imaging that can do all of this. It works also with B&W. As you rotate it, you can see (especially with an SLR) the actual effect of the filter. It is a good filter to have especially if you are photographing against a reflective background.
Norman
Thanks Norman .. So .. in case of an HS10, the circular part really doesnt have any effect, unless you have an SLR .. right ?
No Ravi, the circular polarizer will definitely have an effect; it’s just that the effects are more easily seen through an SLR (seeing through the lens) than they would be through an EVF (electronic view finder) such as is found on the HS10 as well as on other superzoom point and shoots.
Norman
Norman : Regrets for the delayed response as I was travelling. In case of a HS10, is there an optimal position where I can keep the CPL filter since you say there will not be any effect seen through the EVF by rotating it.
Ravi – P&S cameras and DSLRs meter light, so “see” light, in different ways, due to having very different focal paths, and so display source for the viewfinder.
You won’t see the Polariser (Circular or Linear) visual effect in P&S Auto, Program, Aperture or Shutter modes – unless the camera can lock exposure while still being able to change focus.
This is awkward, so use Manual mode instead. Some P&S cameras have incredibly awkward Manual modes – and a few are as easy as the HS10.
Just while getting used to what a Polariser actually does – and they’ll get somewhat different effects/results with different cameras – put the Polariser on the HS10 lens, and the camera on a tripod (being careful with the HS10′s plastic mount screw-thread.)
Select Manual mode – and aim the camera across the angle of sun. That is – from behind the camera, have the sun to left or right of you. Set the camera so you have some sky in the top of the frame.
Now rotate the front part of the Polariser – if you go anti-clockwise from behind the camera, you’ll reduce the risk of inadvertently unscrewing the filter from the lens, and dropping it on the ground…
You’ll now see the “polarising” effect as you rotate the filter. At the Wide end of the zoom, and aimed somewhere near the horizon, you’ll have a very wide expanse of sky in the upper area of the frame, and the polarising effect can be at sufficiently differing angles across that distance, to have rather more blue intensifying effect from one side to the other side.
You can reduce the polarising effect by turning the filter very slightly, until the ‘sides of sky’ are more even, use more zoom, so the “width” of sky is less – fix it in Photoshop/Gimp later – or just leave the ‘different blues’ as an effect.
Polarisers can be used on cloudy days, too – they’ll still intensify colours and shades, and stop relections and glare. Also break the surface glare when imaging fish under pond water, etc.
They’ll also stand-in as a makeshift 1-2 stop low-end GND filter, when used with a small aperture. Use a tripod – and try that with a fast-running outdoor tap or sprinkler. Can be enough fun to convince you to get a proper GND filter or two…
You ‘can’ use a Linear Polariser with P&S – I have a 1973 Hoya that came with an old Spotmatic and Takumar lenses I was given. It does work with Canon SX10 and Fuji HS10, but the modern Hoya Circular Polariser has better coatings and lets more light through. (The old Hoya CP-1 as Googled is 93.5% efficient, the modern multi-coated Hoya PL-CIR is claimed to be 98% efficient.)
Dave.
Hi Moose- I just bought a refurbished HS10 on Ebay, thinking it was new. My fault, but it seems ok. Only one cd came with it, the owner manual etc. When I open it up I get a bunch of icons, but nothing telling me which one does what. So, I went online and just downloaded the manual. But the manual gets me confused. Like on page 23 and 24, both the right sides are the same. Can’t be right. Do you know if there is a tutorial on the HS10 available? I tried YouTube, but nothing works. I’ve been in photography for many years, but this online manual just confuses the heck out of me. I want to do multiple shots in one photo, make people disappear from scenes, do slow motion etc. Your web pages are super. I would love to take a course in how to use my HS10 to its best advantage. So far I love the shots I’ve taken since I received the camera a week ago. Thanks for any help in advance. Jay
Hi Jay. Well, I think you’re in the right place for learning how to use the camera. You said it yourself! Just look down the page, theres lots of stuff by David and others. That’s what I’ve been doing, copying and pasting hints into a document to keep handy. Tips built up from every-day usage are much better than anything ‘official’, I think.
Hi everyone, I am new to this site and new to photography and after having bought my hs10 I was wandering what I should do, or buy with regards to protecting my camera from the elements are there any particular dos and donts.
Regards ,
Brian Steer
Brian, welcome to the HS10 forum. Treat your HS10 like any other piece of sensitive electronic equipment. Avoid extreme cold, heat, moisture and shock. A good camera case would prove a wise investment. There are suggestions within the site (read the headings). Also, a decent screw in UV will help protect the lens glass. Again Brian, welcome and good luck with your HS10.
Norman
Hello Norman, Thanks for your advice on the filter and the camera case its something I will get before I go too far, its a good camera and I certainly want to look after it .
Thanks again,
Regards ,Brian Steer
Hi there! I want some advise since am planning to buy my own camera next next week… I’m not yet decided whether to get the Nikon P100 or Fujifilm HS10.. Can you give me some advise on what’s the best cam I should get?? Tnx..
Hi mhel. Sometime this month Fuji are releasing the HS20 exr. It may be worth checking it out before settling on the HS10. The HS20 has some features you may want eg. TTL metering for external flash and a remote shutter function. The Nikon P100 has lots of reviews on the web, but the HS10 seems to have better reviews.
Hi mhel, welcome to the site. We have had many folks who have had that quandry. I feel that the HS10 has more to offer than the P100, but that would depend upon your particular wants and needs. I have the HS10 and am very pleased with it. I started with a Panasonic Z18, but needed more telephoto. Another camera to consider is the Canon SX30is with 35X zoom factor. I have that camera as well and I like the power zoom (some people do not like this feature) and the ease of using a lithium ion rechargeable battery. It could be my personal usage, but the HS10 is for me, quite power hungry. I am certain that our other contributors can help advise. Also, there are a lot of comparisons on the Internet between the P100 and HS10. Good luck in whatever you decide to purchase.
Norman
@peter and norman: thanks for the advised man.. am not yet really decided but I think I’ll get the P100 since I was convinced of the zoom tests, I watched videos in you tube w/ some zoom tests on it and I found it interesting.. So, I hope that I’m not wrong w/ my decision as I really earned so hard to get my first camera.. lol!!!!
Hi mhel. Hope you will be happy with the P100. Try to remember that it is not the camera that takes the picture, it is you. Happy snapping !
Hi
I have just bought a fuji HS10, it always makes noises while starting up,focusing, i tried to call for the support,they say it is usual,
I should say that when the camera was on tripod,i tried to decrease the tripod height, suddenly it moved in a 90 degree,and the UV lens bopped to the tripod leg! how can i know if the noises are because of the accident or not?!
thanks
Hi Mohammad.
I wonder if you could describe in a bit more detail what sort of noises your camera makes. I just tried mine, and there is a small whirring noise when I switch it on, from the motors starting up I guess, but nothing really noticeable. As for focussing, do you mean when you turn the lens to zoom out and in? Because that action should be virtually silent.
I suppose the knock could have put something out of balance, what sort of pictures do you get? Are they in focus?
You might be better getting advice from the people you bought it from. If they think its a fault with the camera, they should let you exchange it.
Dear Paul
the sound is like the same sound camera makes for focusing on objects while zooming in/out. but you noticed about focusing problem that may be made becouse of knocke, I think the camera does weak in indoor, what do u think? can i have your e-mail address to exchange pics taken? here is mine:mohammad192@gmail.com,
thanks for the reply
Hello,
To help clear things up a little the noise that the camera is making, is it adjusting the focus to find faces in your picture, to reduce the noise it makes, adjust the setting on the top dial, to the picture of the “red camera”. I use this setting most of the time and only use the other one when taking pictures of people.
Hope this helps :)
Hi Mohammad. Check the AF-s button and see if you have continuous focus selected. The camera will make noises every time you move it without pressing the shutter button halfway. However, the noises from my HS10 are so quiet you have to really listen for them. If your camera is set to continuous focus and the noises are loud then maybe the knock did do some harm.
I am going to a Barbara Dickson concert at the Queen Elizabeth Hall in London this weekend where I will need to take photos without flash. We will be sitting roughly 20 rows back from the stage where it is very dark and the stage lighting is usually very bright.
Can anyone offer any tips for this type of photography using my HS10?
Hi Stephen. The HS10 doesn’t have a dedicated ‘theatre’ scene mode as some other cameras do, but it does have a ‘party’ and a ‘night’ mode. I have used both at concerts with some success. You will also need to choose the highest anti-shake in the setup menu. if you want to set the camera manually don’t choose too wide an aperture as you will lose depth of field. You also will need to set quite a high iso which will mean extra noise in your pictures, but in concert type photos, I find this extra graininess sometimes effective. I also tend to take lots of shots in the blind faith that some of them will turn out alright. Hope this has been of some help, but I’m sure that more experienced people on this forum will be able to help you more.
Thanks Peter, that’s very helpful.
Hi again Steve. Checked out your photo. Pretty good from that distance. How many shots did you take? If you got one good shot like that, I don’t understand why you didn’t get more. Still, one good shot is better than nothing. A friend recently showed me his shots of a gig at the Hammersmith Apollo. He was very proud of them, but to say they looked like pictures of a black cat in a coal cellar at night would be kind. Anyway, well done for getting that shot under difficult circumstances.
P.S. How does your picture pan out if you crop just dear Barbara?
Peter, thanks for your comments. I had 2 problems, firstly a rather large usher was sitting 10 feet away (photography was not allowed!!!) and secondly, the lady in the row in front of us sat at 45 degrees, slanting to the right for most of the performance, blocking my view!
I have a few more which I need to convert from RAW, then I’ll upload – probably tomorrow.
Looking forward to seeing them. Pity about the usher and the 45 degree lady. I am rather short and when I go to the theatre, I always seem to get the tallest man in Britain or the fattest lady come and sit in front of me!
Oh, the links to my photos have gone – that’s odd???
Here is a simpler link to the photos I got, click on view all and they appear in a column. (link: 4shared.com/photo/rH2UCWF_/S0041528.html)
You are a dark horse. You didn’t need advice at all did you? Very well done. The clarity in the last picture is superb especially considering the circumstances. Still think you should try cropping the dark backgrounds out, but hey,what do I know? Good work matey !!
Many thanks for your kind comments Peter. We are off to Argentina in April so should find some interesting photographic oportunities!
Hi Moose,
I am having HS10 from last 10 months and I am fully satisfied with the camera and I like wildlife photography. Need your advice for Raynox 2025 Pro filter attachement.
Is it really working ???
Thanks
Mrugesh
i own a fuji hs10.the issue i am facing is,i change the mode to Custom(C) and set the settings like, image type=fine, tone=hard, sharpness=hard. it saves the settings only till camera is turned on. when i turned off the camera and turn it on back, the settings are gone and set to basics. :(
What firmware version are you running?
Manan, I wonder, after reading your post, if you are doing it the right way round!
What you do is set all your settings as you want them, just as you described – but then you have to go into the menu system, and the very last item on the Shooting Menu is CUSTOM SET. (You can get to it quickly by pressing the ‘up’ part of the direction button). You select this and when it says “SET OK?”, select OK and then when you turn the selection dial to “C”, the camera will put all your settings to the ones you want. You can change anything you want on the other dial settings, but “C” should always return you to your saved settings.
Sorry if you already understood how to do it – in that case, yes, maybe theres a fault.
Thanks Paul, it worked :)
thanks Paul very clear description. I also hadn’t tried the C setting yet but now I think I will set a custom setting for garden bird shots. Just in time to coincide with my newfound knowledge about DOF and the Aperture triangle . Thanks
Glad it worked OK Manan!
Yes, I discovered birding last summer, really enjoyed a few hours wandering around the RSPB centre near Middlesbrough. The first time I’d been in a proper hide, and got some pics of a greenshank (lol, I didn’t know they existed until I looked it up later!).
I find the C setting handy in case I get in a muddle with settings and can’t find any to suit, just clikc round to C and it has all my best default settings.
I also read somewhere that you could, if you like RAW pics, set it to RAW instead of ploughing through all those menu pages to reach it.
I also have SP1 permanenty set on Sports in case I need a fast shot.
Hey Paul, nice to know that you clicked few birds. I actually bought HS10 for birding photos only :) specially for its 30x zoom function. and it rocks for me :)
you can see some of the pics I have shot using HS10 : (www.indianaturewatch.net/view_cat.php?tag=Manan%20Shah)
Hello Moose:
I am the proud owner of an HS10 (Feb 4). I found your site when I ‘Googled’ HS10 Tutorial – I’d simply like to thank you for offering such great information on the HS10!!!
I live in Montana, so LOVE ‘Moose Montana’!!!
Tut, all this time and nobody said hello to XTX.
So HI! XTX, welcome to the site!
yes very remiss of us .
Big welcome XTX …. Look forward to seeing you post about how you get on with your HS10
I have a Fuji HS10 for 1 a week, every thing ok, but when i save as RAW, the picture have much more noise than JPEG although i set iso 100. how can i reduce noise at RAW file? i have use Light Room, but the picture become soften not sharpen.
Tran Son Hai – You might be assuming that the camera ‘processes’ RAW files in the camera, as it does with JPEGs. It doesn’t – the RAW file is a Data file, not an Image file, and is a recording of exactly what the camera “saw” at the time, and that Data isn’t altered/processed by the camera.
All digital cameras, including the lowest cost Point-and-Shoots, initially record a RAW Data file. But in most P&S cameras, they can only convert that to a JPEG image file, and after saving that, the RAW file is deleted.
In that conversion, distortion is corrected, colour is profiled to the maker’s preset for the camera, and Noise Reduction is applied. Most DSLRs, and some P&S with advanced functions (Panasonic FZ100, is an example) – have settings for low or high, or a range, of Noise Reduction, or it can be turned off.
What you get in RAW files – is like all of those JPEG processes “Off”. You correct White Balance, Colour, Distortion, Noise, Range, Sharpness, etc, in PP – Post-Processing.
The early release HS10 had problems with JPEG in-camera processing, distortion at the Widest end, so on. With Firmware 1.01 and 1.02, Fuji did a pretty good job of fixing that. In JPEGs at 24-28mm now, there is a tiny amount of distortion – only ‘visible’ in images with hard straight edges and diagonal lines – and you have to know what to look for. Most folk wouldn’t notice it.
If the camera is used properly, the HS10 JPEGs are better than the few other brands attempting to get distortion-free JPEGs at a very Wide – for a P&S long-zoom camera – 24-28mm. What it doesn’t have, is a High Image Quality, larger file-size, low compression, low JPEG artifacting, third “Superfine” JPEG save option, like the Canon SX10 – and that the SX20 and SX30 can add with the CHDK ‘hack’.
If the HS10 did have JPEG ‘Superfine’, ’3-Star’, etc, large-file, low artifacting Save mode – when the camera was used properly, the JPEG quality would be so good that most folk would reserve RAW for difficult shots, very low light, and effects.
In my Canon SX10, the difference in quality between “Fine” files of 2-5MB, and the “Superfine” ones of 4 to 8-9MB, is so very noticeable, that keener users are most annoyed that Canon removed it from the SX20 and SX30 – possibly because those cameras are 12Mpix and 14Mpix, on the same sized sensor as the 10Mpix SX10, so Superfine “shows-up” as noisier images from the more crowded, smaller, closer together, receptors. It doesn’t, except at 100% or close to it.
As the CHDK ‘hack’ for those Canons proves – adding the ‘Superfine’ type option is only a firmware choice by camera makers. It’s a pity there’s no “CHDK” for the HS10 – it would make it a far better general-uses camera, and as “best JPEGs” are used by the Review Sites, if an option in the camera – they’d be showing visibly better sample images, and cameras with “better JPEGs” are rather more popular with users…
However, the Canon SXs don’t come with RAW – the HS10 has surprisingly good, for a tiny-sensor P&S – RAW.
To see just what Fuji had to do to the JPEG processing with the 1.01/1.02 firmware updates – put the HS10 on a tripod, no zoom, at 24mm – and take 2 separate images, without moving the camera, JPEG and RAW.
The JPEG will be around 99% distortion free – the RAW will have quite noticeable distortion (when you correct that in PP, you’ll find that it’s actually a lot less “in the percents” than your human eye is trying to tell you) – but – you’ll have a quite noticeably “wider” image than the JPEG.
That’s what the camera is actually “seeing” – and as it records RAW without any processing – that’s what you get in the RAWs. When Fuji fixed the JPEG in camera processing, that has included a distortion correcting effect that also crops the edges.
In RAW PP correct the distortion first, then on the corrected image, do the White Balance, etc. When you do the Noise reduction, most programs will have a ‘coarse’ mode, perhaps %s – and a ‘fine’ mode, with a slider or amounts bar.
It’s a lot better to apply low levels of ‘fine’ adjustment several times, than a large or coarse amount once. As you’ve noticed – the difference between de-noising cleanly – and softening, even blurring, the image, isn’t much at all….
Good processing programs will allow an “Edit > Undo”, or “Go-Back”, at any stage. If you use small amounts of Fine de-noising, you can therefore choose the point at which the image is “de-noise cleanest”, without affecting the fine details, or softening.
The last thing to do in PP, is Sharpen. The program will (or should) have a USM (UnSharp Mask) option. Choose low Amount, Radius and Threshold levels, and use several, where needed, applications, and by doing that, you can Edit > Undo / Step-Back, when that’s gone a little too far.
Dave.
Thanks Dave, very usefull for me :)
I’m having a tough time firing off quick snaps when I need them the most – the initial time to get from composition to ‘snap’ seems inordinately long… is this a common issue?
To make matters worse, when all around you are zipping away with their crappy little point & shoot pink/limee green/baby blue handbag cameras, I pull out a by all accounts impressive looking HS10, and yet, 3 to 4 seconds later it’s still a fumble to the fnish line.
Any suggestions (it’s a new cam – so I want to love it to it’s max capacity!)
Thanks.
Steve
I know exactly what you mean Steve but there is plenty of redundant features you can switch off in the settings menu. It would pay you to spend some time trawling through past posts in the archive and copy/pasting the relevant bits into a MS Word doc as I have done.
The first big time saving would be to turn off the image review function. You probably don’t need to review each and every image after its taken.
I’m sure someone knowledgable will be along shortly to give you lots of advice. In the meantime enjoy your new HS10.
Steve P – Nick’s certainly right about the 1.5/3.0-sec Review function, turn that off. Then if you haven’t already, the infuriating EVF/LCD “auto-change” device – also, your batteries will also last noticeably longer with this power-hog off.
Go through the Menus (both) and turn off everything that the camera has to do as an “automatic” function – Dynamic Range, Face Detection, High-Speed Shooting (it isn’t, and is another battery-hog), etc.
Auto and Program Modes – which don’t give best results, anyway – have the camera working to set Aperture, Shutter Speed and ISO, and that delays responses, as the camera has a very slow processor.
If you need to use Program, don’t let it use an “ISO Range” – 100-400, etc – the camera has to select-and-set for every shot. Set an ISO level directly, yourself – 100, 200, etc.
Reading between the lines of your post, it sounds like you’re doing sports events, or other moving targets. For that, use Shutter Priority mode – in that, the camera only has to set the Aperture, and run the Autofocus. Set the ISO (top button on the left – can change it very quickly) – to suit the light available.
Hand-held, for moving objects, get the Shutter speed to 1/125th or faster is better. I try to keep 1/250th or more. Raise the ISO to get and keep the Shutter speed up. ISO 200 is almost as noise-free as 100, and at 400 noise is very low. At 800, there’s a little, but very good for a P&S. Reduce the display size to 1200 x 900 or smaller, and it isn’t noticeable.
ISO 1600 is surprisingly good for a P&S – with display size reduced to a shareable 800 x 600, you’ll still have a clear image. Or just gently ‘de-noise’ in post processing. If shooting the lossy format JPEGs, convert them to non-lossy PSD, XCF, or TIFF before working on them. The RAWs clean-up very well from ISO 1600, and are quite usable from ISO 3200. You can’t say that about many P&S cameras…
The HS10 is fastest, startup or shot-to-shot, in Manual, as it isn’t using that slow processor to ‘auto-set’ anything. As in any other Mode – the AF (AutoFocus) can tend to “hunt” before locking-in at anything past two-thirds zoom (about 20x), in any but good light.
Learn to use MF (Manual Focus), which works in all Modes. When using MF, zoom to the range you want, aim at the target, and press the AE/AF-Lock button. The camera rapidly does an approximate focus and ‘beeps’. If you’re holding the camera correctly, your left thumb and forefinger will be near the Focus Ring on the barrel. Just “rock” it a few mm each way, to get best focus centred, and shoot.
The Fast Continuous works very well with Shutter Priority or Manual. 7 or 5 fps is shutter controllable – that is – you can chose to shoot 3-4-5 images only, if that covers the duration of the action. Time between bursts in Continuous is reduced if you don’t need to shoot the possible 7 frames in JPEG.
Time delay for Saves between Continuous bursts is least in Manual, as the camera isn’t in an auto or semi-auto function.
Note that if you want to shoot repeated bursts for fast-repeating action – don’t use the “>” button to view the last images. Due to the firmware design, doing that throws Continuous, and your setting in it, say, 5fps – out. After the ‘View’, you then have to press the Continuous modes button again, select the mode, then press Right-Arrow to choose the fps again.
Let’s see if Fuji has listened and made that a Sticky function in the HS20 – it’s the No.2 in a list of 7 or so HS10 items that really need fixing.
Dave.
I attempted some stealth photos at a flamenco concert held at Sadler’s Wells in London yesterday. I found it very difficult to reset the multi picture option in pitch black conditions, and also to focus from 20 or so rows back from the stage, where the dancers were moving furiously!
I suppose the trick is to keep the camera on, without it switching to standby – presumably that can be preset, and to book seats nearer the stage!
Yes, I need to turn auto power off in settings.
Very new user of the HS10 here.
I mainly take photos of my crafts to post online but now that I have this camera I also want to take good continuous shots of my very active kids and trips out, parties etc.
So first of all I want to know. What is the best way to take photo of objects close up? eg still life of greeting cards, paintings, scrapbook pages. (I don’t have a scanner – don’t suggest it.)
Second:
How do I take continuous shots of my moving children. They really don’t stay still for long… 4yrs and 6.5yrs old
Third:
How do I take great shots of landscapes.
Forth:
How do I take great shots of parties in action. I don’t often take posy photos.
thanks for all your advice.
I also have no idea how to comment on your owl portrait thread as it won’t let me but that is the thread that got me here in google search.
Debbie B – For close up images, use the Standard Macro mode – that lets you focus down to 10cm/4″. When doing cards, paintings, etc, make sure that the lens line is 90-degrees to the target, or the image will be skewed. There’s a Text and Drawings function under Scenes Modes, specifically for that purpose.
2. Small kids and pets are awkward to photograph – neither seem to understand how to co-operate with a camera! Use the EVF, not the LCD – it’s easier to follow a moving target and keep the camera steady.
The HS10 isn’t too happy in Auto or Program modes on many things – including moving targets. You’ll need a fairly fast Shutter Speed – 1/125th second – or faster is better. For that, use Shutter Priority mode – where you choose a shutter speed and the camera matches it with the right Aperture.
You might need to raise the ISO level in shade or indoors to get the shutter speed up – ISO 200 and 400 are low-noise in the HS10, and ISO 800 is fairly low noise, still a clear image if you reduce the display size a bit.
3. While there’s a Landscape mode in “Scenes”, you might want more adjustments than that offers. Unless you want to use Manual mode, Aperture Priority is best for Landscapes. Select the aperture (f-number) – that the camera then gives you a fast enough shutter speed to focus steadily hand-held, 1/80th second or faster, unless using a tripod.
4. Have a look at the Scenes modes on Manual Page 26. There is an actual Party mode for indoors in lower light. Also a Natural-with-Flash mode. That is meant to help with lower lighting and backlit subjects. It takes 2 images, one with Flash, one without, to select from.
Once you see what the camera is selecting for those (make a note) – you’ll be able to set up and adjust better for your needs, yourself.
The HS10 is a very good camera – however, you can’t treat it like a low to midrange Point-&-Shoot – snaps in Auto / Program, say – and hope to get sharp, good colour images. It does take some learning and getting used to.
There are a lot of Digital Camera free Guides and Tutorials you can Google for – but the “CambridgeInColour” site’s tutorials are a good place to start.
Knowing how the “Light Triangle” works – how ISO, Aperture and Shutter speed relate, can be very useful.
Have a look-see and post back!
Dave.
Cropping and pixelation.
Can anyone please explain to me why it is that when I do a 50% crop of an image the image quality seems to drop dramatically?
I suppose that at 50% the cropped image has to expand to fill the same sized area and the pixels have to double in size ?
Doesn’t make any sense to me ….
Can I not crop an image by say 50% and yet retain the same image quality but at 50% size of the original ?
Oh my head hurts…..can someone please explain in simple terms how I can crop an image yet retain the same apparent visual quality and definition of the original
Makes perfect sense sadly. By cropping an image you are effectively selecting a group of the original pixels, therefore they will only be the same size they were in the original picture. Yes you can up-scale an image, but it will never have the clarity of the full size original.
thanks Tom . I accept that it does but I need to understand Why!
It is never enough for me to just accept anything in life, I have to understand the how and why
What is up-scaling ?
I can’t see why I cannot crop an image by 100% say and then view the result at 50% so that the part of the image I have cropped stays the same effective size and the image quality stays the same.?
Nick – By upscaling Tom means enlargement by digital interpolation. A Graphics program can do this in Bicubic mode by “adding” pixels of the same shades to pixels already existing in the image. That can possibly suit an image that’s intended to be large and viewed at a distance, an advertising poster, say – but for a close-viewing image it’s more destructive than enhancing.
(Commercial printshops can pretty accurately “enlarge” photos, using computer-driven multiscan lineal enhancers – but this is quite expensive per image – and the equipment for doing so rather outside most home-user budgets.)
I do like your “How-Why – Need-To-Know!” urges…. I get very frustrated with things I don’t understand – until I can find somebody who can “explain understandably”….
Cameras are about Painting With Light – and Images are about Picture-Elements – Pix-Elements – nowadays said as “Pixels”.
A JPEG from your HS10 is 3,648 pixels wide, and 2,736 pixels high. Or a total of 9,980,928 pixels. Give-or-take a few – Fuji does good tech – but nothing made by humans can be “perfect”. So we can just take it that for working-purposes, the “10Mpix” – or 10-million pixels – image is “about that”.
If you do a “50% crop” – that is, to half the width and half the height – it therefore isn’t “half the size” – it’s a quarter the size. That is – 1,824 x 1,368. So you now have an image with 2,495,232 pixels. That’s a quarter of the number that were in the original 3,648 x 2,736 JPEG image.
If you display the second, cropped image, at the same “physical” size on the desktop, as the original – it will look much less sharp and less clear, with also colour muting and loss of visible detail. Because at that viewed “size area” – it has only a quarter of the information – quarter as many pixels, per square inch viewed.
To equal the “viewed quality” you must reduce the display size to a quarter of the original. That is – if you were looking at the 3648 x 2736 image at about 1200 x 900 onscreen – reduce the display size of the crop to 600 x 450. And that image will then look very close to the same as the “quarter” of the image it was cropped from.
Only “close” – because if you cropped a Copy of the actual original JPEG – you lowered the “IQ” – Image Quality – of the JPEG, anyway.
Because JPEG is a very “lossy” format – any modifications made to a JPEG will reduce its quality. That’s because JPEG (from the 1970s/80s Joint Photographic Experts Group) – is a low-tech format. The algorithms (programming) for JPEG aren’t at all sophisticated.
However – being so simple – also makes it relatively easy to make low-cost P&S digital cameras which can use it. Either TIFF or Bitmap/BMP would be better – as no-loss and lower-loss formats – but either would need a lot more “camera processor” to do – and they’re also much larger file-sizes. So for camera-created images we have JPEGs.
Many folk do want better – so we have RAW – earlier in DSLRs – now in the higher-end better P&S cameras. RAW is a Data file, not an Image file – and they’re a whole other story…
- If you prefer shooting JPEGs, but want to post-process, do Levels, Brighten/Contrast/Gamma, Sharpen, so on – to “avoid the lossy” in the JPEG format – convert the JPEG(s) to a “non-lossy” format – Photoshop PSD, Gimp XCF, TIFF, are all good choices. If you do some processing in Photoshop, some in Gimp – start with TIFF – it works in either.
Sharpen – USM used in small increments is kinder to images – last. If you crop the image – do it before sharpening – then sharpen the crop as “the last thing” done to it, before converting to JPEG for sharing, uploading, etc.
Dave
thank you Tom and Dave for helping me with this.
Its frustrating when you have a feeling that there must be a solution but its just beyond your comprehension of a subject.
I use Corel paint and have done for years. I actually use Corel Draw much more but use Paint for all resizing of images.
I had a feeling that logically there must be some way of compensating for pixel loss in cropping by reducing the image size proportionally and your excellent explanation has once again given me an explanation and insight thank you.
I’m going to try experimenting with an image tonight and see how I get on .
I do struggle with resizing and editing images for the internet and my post production work is practically non existent.
I am very fortunate to have a UK renowned adult education centre 5 miles down the road and I have booked myself several day long Photographic workshop courses with eminent photographers for a mere £45.00 a day !
I am so looking forward to spending some time with other photographers I can’t tell you. My problem is I have a wide array of hobbies ,sports and interests that compete for my time together with being a full time carer . The day just isn’t long enough !….
Thanks again David spending so much of your time helping us Noobs . Without people like you sharing your experience and expertise this would be such a steep learning curve for some of us.
Nick
I have an inexpensive piece of software called Photozoom by BenVista. If enlarging and cropping is a frequent tool for you, this software fits the bill.
Thank you David for the explanation. Found it just my level as this was one of many questions I am confused about as a complete novice. (3 days with HS10, first proper camera)
Keven
Hi everyone
can anyone inform me if the firmware updates for the HS10 have solved the problem when deleting unwanted pictures on the memory card, ie when you scroll through memory card and delete a picture does the camera take you back to the begining of the pictures instead of where you were before deleting the picture?
Also – can anyone inform me as to what size photographs i could realistically expect to print from this camera without loss of quality, it would be nice to hear that 12″ x 10″ (300mm x 250mm) would be acheivable especially if photographs were taken during daylight hours.
Cheers
Ian
Ian, your querry regarding the size of prints is rather subjective and would be affected by many parameters such as ISO, aperature, shutter speed, lens extension and of course the skill of the photographer. Using a tripod would be suggested and then there are your personal expectations. It is not a didital SLR with a full frame and/or APSC sized sensor. All in all, I believe that taken under the proper conditions you could get acceptable prints of that size. I have one 14X16 glossy of our cat that is very good, but my friend massaged it a bit using Photoshop.
Norman
Norman
Ian – It isn’t too difficult to calculate. You can then either change the pixels size of the image, or the dpi (dots per inch) resolution in the printer, to achieve the desired printout size.
The HS10′s full 10Mpix size is 3648 x 2736 pixels/dots in printer terms. If you use a printer setting of 300dpi – divide the width and height of the image by 300 – and the printout will be very close to 12.2″ x 9.1″.
If you had a large enough printer width – printing at 150dpi would give you a printout at 24.3″ x 18.2″ – but at a quarter the quality – that is, by doubling the effective width and height of the printout, that’s 4 times the area – so spreading the same number of pixels (9,980,928) – over 4 times the space. Suitable for a poster, perhaps.
If your printer has a higher-quality setting of 360dpi – the printout would be 10.1″ x 7.6″ – suiting a glossy printout to frame.
You can of course (using a Copy of your prepared 3648 x 2736 image) – scale that down to do a smaller printout – but – keeping the 300dpi printout quality.
If altering a JPEG, to avoid quality loss, as it’s a “lossy” format, it’s best to convert to a non-lossy format first – Photoshop PSD, Gimp XCF, or TIFF.
With Photoshop – go to Image > Image Size – and select the scaling ratio – use Bicubic Interpolation, as that’s most accurate. In Gimp – go to Image > Scale Image – and select the scaling ratio – use Lanczos3, as that’s most accurate.
If you chose 1200 x 900 as the re-size – at the printer setting of 300dpi – that will printout at 4″ x 3″.
Sometimes – maybe to match a layout in a photo album, or just for appearance or presentation – you might want images at the 3:2 ratio DSLRs do. The HS10′s standard 3648 x 2736 images are at the usual P&S camera 4:3 AR (Aspect Ratio.)
While you can of course Crop a 4:3 image to 3:2 – having the layout and composition “in original 3:2″ – just like a DSLR image, is of course better. Ratio-cropped images tend to look like, er, just that…!
Fuji very handily gives the 3:2 AR option in the HS10. You can select that in Page 1 Menu > Image Size. The changed AR shows clearly in EVF and LCD, so you can plan layout, then do a balanced composition. The “L” 3:2 AR image is about 9Mpix.
Dave.
Hi Norman, thanks for your comments,
as you will have guessed i am only a amatuer, my main reason for asking the question is that i am looking to purchase a new camera and dont really want to haul a large bag containing a DSLR camera and several lenses to family functions and holidays but do want a camera that can offer what the HS10 offers, ie fantastic zoom range and other functions that are quite above that of a general point and shoot camera, that said the sensor size is that as is used in the small point and shoot camera and i was cocerned about the I/Q of a printed photograph at say 12″ x 10″ approx, i am not looking for professional quality at that size but on the same hand i dont want poor quality prints that are noticeable to the untrained eye.Hope this makes sense?,
Any thoughts on the new HS20 sounds exciting to me, looks like its still got the plastic thread for the tripod mount.
Regards
Ian
Hi David, Wow your knowledge is fantastic and thanks for sharing it, i was not aware of the relationship between Pixels and Dpi,
Could i ask you what Dpi you would use to obtain a high quality print say as a proffesional and what Dpi you think would give an acceptable quality print to the untrained eye,
once again great help, thanks
Regards
Ian
Ian – I haven’t done home photo printing for several years. The last Epson A3 sheet size printer I had used 360dpi for photo glossy sheet and 300dpi for satin sheet. Costs just became too high for quality printing at A3 or A4 sizes. At the same time electronic display and transfer had improved greatly.
However home printing technology has changed a lot in the last 5-6 years, so I couldn’t now advise on printers, inks, papers and methods. Colour Laser printers now look as if they’re affordable, but I have no experience at all with those.
As for the HS20 – Fuji was going to send Moose a pre-release one so we’d get “all the correct info” before release time. This seems not to have happened.
But some Review sites are at least getting Previews… The HS20 seems to be the HS10 with some of the “advanced” EXR functions added.
As you’ve already seen, the badly flawed, plastic, much too close to the battery door tripod mount remains in the HS20. From a rather small picture, it looks as if again there’s no “Video” position on the Mode Dial – it won’t need one, if like the HS10 the Video has no Exposure or Focus controls – and nothing seems to have been done about the Jerk-O-Matic Video Zoom control…
Unless you like doing short clips, camera (a bit plastic-flimsily) on a tripod, and stop the Video between clips, change distance and prefocus – then start the Video – these cameras have minimal attraction for Video. The Canon SX30, Panasonic FZ100, etc, at similar prices, manage Video much better, if perhaps not as good at stills.
In fact, the Fuji S1800 I bought for my teenage godson’s Christmas, does its 1280 x 720 and 640 x 480 Video modes better than the HS10…
So far, the HS20 seems not to have cured many if any of the HS10′s problems, while downgrading the Highspeed Video, and reducing the Fast Continuous speeds…
And I’m not the only person (by a long way, actually..) – waiting for Fuji to explain how the HS20 will manage 18Mpix on that tiny sensor. No – it isn’t, as folk on one forum rejoiced, “a big 1/2″ (half inch) sensor… It’s a 1/2.0″ sensor – 6.4 x 4.8 – 30.7 mm2, which is 7% larger than the HS10′s 10Mpix 1/2.3″ 6.16 x 4.62 – 28.5 mm2.
The area gain is 2.2 mm2. Or about 7% in area. The Diagonal increases by 0.3mm – 7.7 to 8.0mm. At 18Mpix and only slightly larger sensor, there’s a 45%+ increase in receptor density. The HS20 seems to need a huge increase in processor power, speed and throughput, if to avoid being even slower than the HS10.
Oddly – Fuji isn’t yet giving out any of the tech details of how all of this is going to be achieved, and give users a much faster camera than the HS10.
They should expect buyers to examine the HS20 very closely – there are already several Bridge Zooms around with “only” 14Mpix crammed onto a tiny sensor, that are having user problems.
The “merely only” – by comparison with those others – 10Mpix on the BSI-CMOS sensor has been one of the best features – low-light, high-ISO, very fast Continuous, etc – of the HS10.
Dave.
This may have been covered, but how do I find out which version of the HS10 firmware I have please?. The camera was bought in mid December 2010 so I imagine it must be a recent version.
Ok, I’ve found the answer!!
I used the camera a lot taking outdoor stuff and experienced a problem. In bright sunlight, expecially overhead, both the large LCD screen and eye-level viewfinder blacked out. The prox. face-detector sensor was turned off. Other cameras I have used have an eyecup shade – but the HS-10 doesn’t. Appreciate any comments. Will it be necessary to boost the screen illumination level to compensate for bright ambient light?
I too have also noticed this on my camera too. Maybe its an auto shut down function to protect the sensors?
Just purchased my HS10 and played with it the first time this weekend. I like how the menus are laid out, pretty easy to get around in.
I did some panoramas with it and was very pleased.
Found this forum and have now spent the better part of two hours going through some of the suggestions made here. Thanks to all of you.
One grip I have with the camera is that it is very easy to hit the menu button with the heel of my thumb and goof things up a bit.
I read here for the first time about the weakness of the tripod mounting position and will keep that in mind.
One thing I did that really puzzled me that maybe someone here can enlighten me about.
Some how when I was setting thing up I hit a combo of button that would put two green, horizontal lines across the screen. Could not figure out what it was and finally hit the “reset” command and got rid of it.
Am really looking forward to this summer and using this camera on the boat. We have so many photos of people the instant after they fall out of their skis or fly off the tube. With the “Best of X” option we should be able to time it a lot better.
I have a Olympus FL-36 flash I would like to use with this camera. What is the trigger voltage rating of this camera?
Regards to all,
Keith B
Keth B – The 2 green lines are the No Framing indicators. Cycle the Display Back button to clear that.
Re the plastic tripod mount thread – try to use a tripod that has a large (standard full-size) quick-release shoe, to distribute camera weight more evenly. Tighten the shoe screw just to “firm”, don’t over-tighten.
Wearing or beginning to strip the plastic thread, might be what then makes it crack through that 3mm of case to the battery door opening. I’m treating mine gently and it seems to be okay after more than 6-months.
Re the action shots – why use the Fuji-Gimmick “Best-Of” mode, when the HS10 actually has very good DSLR-style Fast Continuous shooting – after Firmware Update 1.02 Review site tested at 12-7-5-3fps JPEG and 5-3fps RAW?
It’s one of the best things the HS10 does – fast full resolution Shooting. For sports and highspeed toddlers and pets – 7 or 5fps works well. For very fast movement, the 12fps. Use Shutter Priority or Manual, and get the shutter-speed well up, for best results.
12fps or 7fps at full resolution JPEG is faster than most entry to mid level DSLRs, and also faster at full resolution than the new HS20. Fuji might not have intended that speed with the HS10, but it’s what happened after the first 2 firmware updates…
Dave.
when taking indoor photo’s on ‘auto’ daytime or evening people’s face’s glare really brightly.
I am trying to get a softer mellow skin tone but will admit to having difficulty trying to figure out settings using the online manual.
Many thanks.
Robert – There’s a copy of the HS10 Manual on the CD that came with the camera. Or you can download it from Fuji or by Googling for it. Either way, you don’t have to go online to see it.
Many makers, including Fuji, are no longer supplying printed manuals with their cameras. For a Sales boost, they might include a redeemable voucher to have their PDF Manuals printed-out.
The HS10 isn’t always too happy in auto functions, including Auto Mode. Program Mode isn’t very adjustable, either. Try Aperture Priority Mode, and use the lowest ISO you can for the situation.
On Page 2 of the Shooting Menu, you can adjust Colour, Tone and Sharpness from Low, Mid, to High.
Under the Scenes Modes, you have Natural Light, Portrait – soft tones overall with natural skin tones, and Party, to suit indoor events. There’s also a Natural-Two-Shot mode, one shot uses Flash, and the other doesn’t.
Dave.
Hi Moose
The company i work for has asked me to take some interior photos of a project they have completed. The photos are going to be of office decoration, light displays, main desk, etc…basically interior design…
Please can you advise me what the best settings would be for the HS10.
Your assistance will be much appreciated
SP1 mode – settings has a “party” setting that helps take photos indoors. Apparently. Try that one
Hi Moose,
I’ve purchased my HS10 last Oct and very excited to take some pictures for my sons. I would like take some potraits and have the blurry background but I can’t get it even I tried the ‘A’ mode dial. It always have clear object with clear background.
Can you give me some tips on this?
Tsen – With P&S cameras we don’t have the very shallow Depth of Field control DSLRs with selected lenses can achieve, so the nice ‘creamy bokeh’ they do isn’t usually possible.
But we can get the “sharp target – blurred background” effect quite easily.
One way with a P&S camera is to use the standard optical zoom, and have the background much further past the target than the distance from camera to target.
With the HS10, as in the Telephoto range it doesn’t focus well under 5 metres / 16ft, the distance behind the target has to be quite long, but works where available.
However, often the longer distance past the target to the background just isn’t there. In that situation, you can use the Standard Macro mode.
The HS10 is unusual, in that the Std Macro focusing range is 10cm / 4″ to 3 metres / 10ft at the Wide end, and 2 metres / 7ft to 5 metres / 16ft at the Tele end.
You can use either – and just make sure that the background is past the focusing range of the Wide/Tele ranges being used, and the background will blur-out well. Just experiment to see for yourself how the camera does it, and the effects you want.
A more even background – a hedge, bushes, solid fence, high brick wall, etc – makes a more even blur than large solid objects.
Dave.
Thanks Dave. Will try this out in weekend in HCMC.
Cheers.
i have been shooting raw lately, but windows picture viewer can’t open the RAF File. What software should i use in viewing my pictures.
You need to use the Fuji software that came with the camera to post process the RAW image file, you can then save it as a JPEG to view it normally. A RAW image file is simply that, its just raw data, meaningless to any program that cannot read the file format, hence why you have to post process RAW files.
Hi dax,
if you use elements up to and including ver8 then download Adobe’s 6.2 raw converter, if you use the new Elements ver 9 you can download ver 6.3 raw converter, or you can download Adobe’s free DNG converter. They will all work with HS10 *.raf files, or if you prefer you can download Scarab Darkroom (scarablabs.com/scarab-darkroom) at or my favorite, Sagelight ver4 (sagelighteditor.com) both work with HS10 raw files. I find Sagelight to be very powerful and easy to use, not to mention cheap for such power!
tnx tom, though stil have to learn the silkyfix.
Hi Moose & Freinds
I am thinking of buying the HS10 camera any time now but have read some negative reports on the internet re the manual zoom, the reports say the zoom is jerky during use and is detrimental to the quality of video recording:I find it hard to beleive that Fuji boffins would develope a camera with this problem?: Have you experienced this problem and if so is it just when its new, ie does it need running in so to speak:I really want to buy this camera but need some reassurance: Hope you and your freinds can help me out:
Cheers
Ian
The manual zoom gets smoother the more you use it for pics but is not so good from video.
Ian – If you sort through this Forum’s posts, you’ll find quite a lot about the HS10′s Video.
The Twist-Zoom does free-up in a few months, for stills use – and for that, it’s fast and very good.
However, for Video – it’s far too difficult, and awkward even on a tripod, to change range while zooming in Video without severe jerk-jumping in the Video. For Zooming-In-Out on things while Video-ing – it’s not possible to do smoothly.
With this camera, Video is best done in short clips, without trying to change range, or zoom in-out, while the Video is running.
For Video, try to zoom to distance, then (in stills mode) – pre-focus. That seems to help the “several seconds” start-up time of the Video after pressing the Red Video button on the back of the camera – the HS10′s only “control” for Video.
That is – there is no Exposure (Brightness) control, or Manual Focus – for Video, before starting, or during, Video-ing. There is no “Video” mode on the Mode Dial to select, for making adjustments – as there are no adjustments to make.
The Brightness and Focus control is supposed to be all “automatic”. If you do risk twist-zooming in or out – it takes the “auto-focus” time to catch-up. As you can’t control the Exposure when Video-ing – or “Lock Exposure” before Video-ing – if you “pan” the camera while Video-ing – the “auto-brightness” gets confused at different angles to the light direction, and between light and shade.
It’s best to use a tripod (‘tether’ the camera with neck-strap, etc, in case the plastic tripod-mount cracks through, and drops the camera) – and do short clips in the same direction per clip, and don’t pan between different light level areas.
The Standard HD – 1280 x 720 – Video is actually pretty good, if you get the knack of handling the camera for it. The Full HD – 1920 x 1080 – is lesser quality with a quite low Mbps rate for Full HD.
If there was electronic “digital zoom” in the HS10, that might give least some “smoother” control to zoom in Video – but there’s no digital-zoom in the Video.
You might wait to see if the HS20 has better Zoom control, better Full HD, and Brightness and Focus controls.
Dave.
Thanks David for your speedy reply and tips on using the cameras video function, i will bare this in mind if i purchase the HS10, i think i will look out for the reviews on the HS20 as you mentioned.The HS10 is priced at £240 approx whilst the HS20 seems to have a price tag of £400 approx at its launch date in March/April, not sure i can wait that long without cracking:
The HS10 appears to be a lot of camera for it`s money and providing it shoots good enough quality still shots upto say 10″ x 8″ then i should look at the video function as an added bonus?:
You might suggest that i look at DSLRs but like alot of other photographers i dont want to lug all the gear around with me. The camera will be used for holiday/family photo`s ect but that added extra zoom will make possible those pictures you wish you could take but cant because the subject is out of reach:
I will be reading through the comments as you reccomend and i am sure i will be asking more questions:
Regards
Ian
Thanks Ann for your speedy reply and reassurance regards the manual zoom:
Regards
Ian
Ian – We don’t yet have a release price for the HS10 in Australia, but if it’s £400.00 in the UK, that’s AUD$640.00 – and since our prices are usually 10%+ above the EU, that could be a rather scary $700.00 or so, here… Our dollar is at US$1.02 at present, so that would compare badly with a US release price around USD$399.00.
In fact, even a release price here of $545.00, as I paid several months after release for my HS10, would compare badly…
We pay so much more in Australia than the US prices – a third or more extra, is usual – that we do tend to compare features and abilities very carefully. Nor can we, as in the US, “try out” cameras for a month or more – then return them for a full refund. We get 14-days to return cameras for refund – and only if the camera is proven to be faulty – after that, any problem is a Warranty claim.
And yes – I’m trying to get used to, on Camera Forums, the quite usual response to questions about any P&S – but particularly Bridge Zooms – “Get a DSLR – only a DSLR can do – Z, Y, Z, etc…!”
Particularly from our American friends – doing their DSLR and lenses pricings on the extremely low US prices…! I’ve been watching the Pentax K-R prices as I intend eventually to get one (mainly because Pentax can use the very many low-priced Filn-era lenses about, and I’m on low fixed income / disability pension)
It’s interesting to see, that with “cash-back” the Americans can buy a Pentax K-R, with the 18-55mm / 50-200mm lens kit – for US$4.00 ($549.00) more than I paid for my HS10…!
That might tend to explain why so many Americans tend to answer Bridge-Zoom questions with the “Get a DSLR!” reply.
For other regions, that can be a pricing problem (I’m still busily saving!) – or just the convenience of not needing to cart around a bag of lenses to “get some reach”. Going “over 300mm” (450mm equiv.on a crop-body) – gets amazingly expensive very quickly in DSLR…
Also, not everyone in a family or bunch of friends can necessarily use a DSLR, while they mostly can with a P&S.
While I’d “like” a DSLR – they do have disadvantages, too. So if any Maker decided to create a Bridge-Zoom with 25x+ Zoom, internal 1.4x/2.0x Teleconverter, good JPEG IQ, RAW, Fast-Continuous at Full Resolution, Smooth Zoom and Brightness/Focus Controls for 1280 x 720 Video, digital-zoom in the Video, at least, and a nice solid, reliable, metal tripod-mount – I’d seriously consider re-directing my ‘DSLR’ savings to it…
The Canon SX30 certainly does all the Video functions – it would be nice if they included the excellent Superfine JPEG stills ability of the SX10 in it, but this has apparently been removed, in favour of the excellent Video… It doesn’t do RAW, either – and a “fast” Continuous at 1.4fps isn’t adequate, these days…
Dave.
Did somebody used the 58mm Mount 0.45X Wide Angle with Macro (Thin Design). Is releable with the HS10?
Anyone got some inside news on the next firmware update?
Tom – Are you meaning the one that:
- makes Continuous a “sticky” – until Continuous is turned off, or the camera is turned off,
- that enables Exposure Control and Manual Focus in Video,
- that adds digital zoom to Video,
- that changes AEB from +/- 1EV only, to the full +/- 2EV, to make it suitable for HDR (maybe enable 5 image AEB save)
- adds a “Superfine” type third JPEG level save – low compression, low JPEG artifacting, at about 8-9MB filesize (like my also 10Mpix Canon SX10 does) – not every wants to PP RAW files to get high quality images
- if they “must” have a different RAF RAW version in every Fuji camera that does RAW – which makes getting adequate software to process them, difficult, particularly in Windows – why not option Adobe’s DNG, which most programs handle?
- not quite a firmware update – but the HS10/20 doesn’t just sell in the US/EU, where Macs are fairly common, they sell in Russia, China, India, Southeast-Asia, India, Middle-East, Africa, South America, etc, where Macs are rare – but Linux is increasingly widespread. So why provide Mac software when there are many times more Linux users – but no Linux software….?
(When you include Russia, now using Linux across its Education System, China, with over 300-million Linux users, and Brazil, where Windows is now a small minority, usage is mainly Linux – Linux usage is now either at, or past, the 1-Billion or so Windows usage… So saying “Nobody uses Linux…!” is Hooey!
Actually – everyone who uses Google – is using Linux – Google runs on Linux – they have the largest Linux server-farm on the planet. And Yahoo uses Unix…)
Apart from the last, all of those and more are firmware mods.
Oh, deahhh…! I didn’t know whether to believe it or not when I saw it on another forum – and checked it in the full specs list… While the LCD resolution is greatly improved in the HS20 – the EVF is the same as the HS10 – when other makers are improving their EVFs considerably.
I realise that the modern trend is to have LCD only on P&S cameras, but having no EVF (Olympus actually has a 30x zoom no-viewfinder camera, which sells poorly) – or not improving a modest EVF, is not at all helpful. A better LCD, to enable users to hold their half-kilo-plus 30x-zoom HSxx cameras out, wobbling at arm’s length in front of them….?
Or is that to encourage folk to put their HS20s on tripods when using over 15x zoom? On the same flimsy plastic tripod mount – 3mm from the battery door – as the HS10….?
I do wonder if Fuji will start listening – for the HS30…?
Yes, I’m “whinging and moaning” – but where I am, we pay around $550.00 for the HS Series Fuji cameras.
So they might at least fix the main faults of the HS10-etc – the EVF, the cancelling Continuous, the Video controls, make the digital-zoom fullscreen LCD/EVF, and the really potentially expensive repair – the dreadful plastic tripod-mount…
Dave.
Yeah I really hope they do at least one more update and fix the bug with continuous shooting but I’m not holding my breath now that their focus is probably on supporting the HS20.
lol that’d be the update, yes! Just need to get hold of someone from Fuji
Kevin / Tom – I doubt that any company is ever going to make the “perfect” P&S camera – unless Hasselblad gets into the P&S market… But who’s going to pay $5,000.00+ for a bridge-zoom, anyway…?
Part of the makers’ problems with features on P&S cameras, seems to be “regional pricing”. That is, a camera has to sell at a relatively low price in the US, more in the EU, and more again in areas like Australia, where we pay a third more, at times half more, than the US price for cameras.
Actual example – prices in USDs – when the Canon SX10 cost $320.00 in the US, it was around $400.00 in the EU, and $480.00 in Australia… USD$480.00 was then AUD$586.00 – and the receipt at $586.00 is still in my SX10 box… 50% more in USDs than the US price.
I paid AUD$545.00 for my HS10, when that was USD$525.00, and the online, with cash-back, US price was under USD$350.00.
The makers also have to do pricing or versions of camera models for Asia, Africa, etc.
Our AUD is now just above the USD, at USD$1.02 – so the pricing on the HS20 release next month, will be “interesting”.
Sadly, Fuji seems not to have sent Moose his pre-release HS10 sample yet, while some Review places have at least seen the camera, if they don’t have examples to Preview.
I don’t really want to believe what they’re claiming… That the main HS10 faults are unchanged in the HS20 – the non-sticky Continuous I haven’t seen mentioned – but it retains the “everyone turns it Off anyway” infuriating Auto EVF/LCD switch. And the HS10 EVF with it – only the LCD is improved.
The 2x integrated digital zoom still isn’t full-EVF/LCD. And doesn’t work with Video. The twist-zoom is the same – no good for Video handheld. And as yet there are no Exposure/MF controls for Video.
And the dangerous flimsy plastic tripod mount thread is still right beside the battery door – and as far from the lens centre-line as it can physically be.
Perhaps a “third-party” accessory maker could invent a device that “holds” the HS10/20 cameras very safely-securely – and has its tripod-mount in-line with the lens…? If any such maker is intending to make such, for about USD$50.00 or so – could they please announce it here? Because you’ve just made your first sale – to me!
The best function in slow-motion Video – the HS10′s VGA / 640 x 480 at 120fps – 1/4-speed playback – has been reduced to 80fps.
That “could be” – I don’t know this – a restriction caused by having 16Mpix on a 1/2.0″ sensor – no, sadly, it isn’t, as a couple of places have been claiming – a “half-inch” sensor… They get that error from some writers describing the HS20 sensor as > 1/2″ < – not as 1/2.0" – which is actually 6.4mm x 4.8mm – a tiny fraction larger than the 1/2.3" in the HS10.
However, the HS20 sensor receptor density is 45% higher than the HS10's. That might improve the RAW files – how well Fuji is handling the in camera processing for JPEGs, isn't yet clear.
However, it does apparently affect the Fast Continuous, as the camera "combines" the 16Mpix receptors into pairs, to give the faster Continuous images as a reduced 8Mpix, some are claiming.
If the Fast Continuous in the HS20 is so compromised, one can only hope that standard shot-to-shot times are greatly improved.
I can't yet find a detailed Specifications sheet for the HS20, yet – just the "first impressions" from those who have seen the camera, but don't have one to Review….
I'm sure that the HS20 Full Spec-sheet – and the first Full Reviews – will be most interesting…
Dave.
Sig. Moose,
i found this blog by a piece of luck and since then i have read ALL HS10 tips and more. My compliments for the clarity of the explanations, and most of all for the uncommon attitude of patience.
I own a Pentax Optio 3.3mb one of the first digicompacts on the market early 2000: wonderful cam with a comprehensive manual. Now i have also an HS10: rewarding cam with a real poorly written manual (translation into italian, my tongue, doesn’t help either).
I wonder if quite a number of questions you are asked about aren’t due to the fact that people doesn’t find a prompt and clear answer in the book
I come to the point. I am interested in taking pictures of moving subjects and think that “Best Frame Capture” is what i need. Manual page 45 i read:
“Each time you press the shutter button all the way down, the camera records pictures, “bracketing” the moment when the shutter was pressed”.
There is a second paragraph and a final note: “Recording does not begin until the shutter button is pressed halfway, if the shutter button is pressed the rest of the way down before the number of frames.……..”
I have read the cryptic argument to repeat it from memory ,…….. sig. Moose, could you explain in simpler words how it works in practice? tI need to take a speedy subject (let say a horse), passing horizontally in front of me, at ten meters distance, at about 50 km/h. Btw, when i read “record pictures” i presume are pictures put into buffer isn’t?
Thank you for your expert advice. My regards to the blog’s surfers & arrivederci.
Genri (pensioner).
I use best frame capture mode often. Very useful for sports and wildlife photos.
Let’s say you have it set to 10fps and to save 4 frames “before” and 2 frames “after”. You compose your shot and press the shutter button half way to lock focus. The camera starts buffering images at 10fps. When you press the shutter down all the way it writes 7 images to the memory card: 4 frames from before you pressed all the way, 1 frame from that instant, and 2 frames from after.
If you press the shutter down all the way before it has buffered 4 frames (in this example) it will end up saving fewer images. If you release the shutter without pressing it down all the way it won’t save any images.
I’ve also learned that if you hold the shutter down halfway for too long (I haven’t timed it but it think it’s about 20 sec) the camera will record the 7 frames and you’ll have to wait for the images to save to the card before shooting another burst. You can avoid this by releasing the shutter button before this time limit.
I hope this explanation makes sense to you.
That was an exhaustive and clear explanation! Thanks so much Kevin C.
Genri
Just got my HS-10 and loving it, but I can’t find the AE BRK setting when I go into the continuous shooting menu. It’s probably hiding somewhere right under my nose, but I can’t find it.
Joseph – AEB is on the Continuous Menu – push the button, and it’s last on the right – AE BKT. To select with the camera up to your face, you can use the Left-Right Arrows on the 4-way pad – easier than turning the Command Dial.
The adjustments are in Shooting Menu, Page 3. There are +/- adjustments of 1/3EV, 2/3EV, and 1EV. That’s adequate for bracketing normal shots, but not useful for HDR imaging.
Like my old Fuji S2000HD, which, like the HS10 does have +/- 2EV for Exposure Compensation, it doesn’t use the full +/- 2EV range in AEB, as some other brands do (e.g, my Canon SX10, but it only does 3 images.)
Nor does it have an onscreen display to show the AEB setting – you have to look in the Menu. I tend to put it on +/- 1/3EV to bracket stills in uncertain lighting, and leave it there.
The Exposure Compensation by itself does display on EVF and LCD (when off the “0″ setting) – and works across the full +/- 2EV.
For HDR images – put the camera securely on a steady tripod, set up to minimise all shake and vibration. I use Aperture Priority, and AF, as changing the Aperture – or letting the camera do that – can change Depth of Field.
Select the desired zoom, and compose the image in the frame. You can focus, then lock it, or use the AF per shot – the latter seems to be better. Either way, the camera must be kept as unmoving as possible.
You can do 3, 5, or more images for your HDR. I start at the “left” of the displayed Exposure Bar – and work across. At each, first set the 2-second Timer, then move the indicator on the bar, to suit. Gently press the Shutter button to focus and confirm, then gently, full down – then hands-off, and let the Timer fire the shot.
If doing 5 images, you could spread them 1EV apart from -2EV to +2EV. But if doing that, be aware that at the “0″ setting on the bar, the bar vanishes from the screen, and you need to push the Exposure button to get it back. If you do 2/3EV increments, you can go either side of “0″ – 1/3EV and +1/3EV, and avoid that.
If the HS10 had a “firmware hack” like Canon’s CHDK – we could likely obtain the full +/- 2EV in AEB, with 1/3, 2/3 and 1EV increments, and at least a choice of 3 or 5 images.
As a Fuji firmware update, better AEB functions / control, would be preferable to some of the many gimmicks the HS10 has. Fuji might note that HDR is now very popular, and “people do actually do HDR” – as with a very minor firmware correction, the HS10/20 would be very good for HDR.
Dave.
I’m looking at the Hoya Infrared filter. I saw one by Opteka, the
Opteka HD² 58mm R72 720nm Infrared X-Ray IR Filter. Is this one as good as the regular Hoya filter, or would it be better to go straight to one that’s made by Hoya? Thanks
Kathy, I’m not certain that one can use an infrared filter on a digital camera without converting the camera. As you are aware, using B&W film, there was a focus shift that had to be addressed with 35mm film cameras. After lining up the focus using split screen or whatever, one then must turn the lens to line up a red dot or line. This took care of the focus shift in that distance is not the same when viewed as infrared. You may want to look that up, or address it via Fuji.
Norman
Thanks, Norman. I have the HS10 so I wanted to use it on that and it will work with an Infrared Filter, just was wondering which one. The one above I can get for around $25.00. The regular Hoya Infrared Filters are around $60.00. Too, is the HD one (for $25) any better?
Kathy, I have never experienced any vast difference between higher priced infrared filters and other quality brands. This excludes some of the cheaper low quality stuff. I purchased a used infrared filter (and other filters as well) from ebay and at camera meets. If the glass is clean and unscratched and the threads and rim are clean you should experience no problem. I am happy to hear that one can use an infrared filter on the HS10. I was gaining my information from ads offering infrared conversion as well as an article in Shutterbug magazine some time past.
Norman
I have had an HS 10 for 2 months now and some of the button signs are starting to wear off, the zoom button sign has almost completely worn off and the review button is half gone. Is this a problem anyone else is having?
Great camera I am worried that they will all go even if Fuji replaces them. My small olympus I have had for 2 years has no problem like this. Seems a bit cheap for a not cheap camera.
Any thoughts?
Tim – I’ve had my HS10 for over 6 months, and I’m not seeing anything like that with mine. All of my buttons look as-new.
Check where your HS10 was made – mine was made in Indonesia, and I was a little nervous about that at first – but, no problems at all. The build quality is very good, no gaps, squeaks, rattles, so on, and the exterior finish – and buttons – are keeping a nice “nearly new” appearance.
Perhaps HS10s made in other regions could have assembly or finish sealing/coating – as on buttons – problems.
The only “wear or build” quality worry I have with my HS10 is the strangely cheapskate plastic tripod-mount thread. Which is about 3mm from the edge of the battery-door.
In fact, they couldn’t have located the tripod mount any further from the centreline of the lens – without putting it “in” the battery compartment….
On some other Forums I’m now seeing reports of the HS10 tripod thread cracking – and it apparently cracks through to the battery compartment.
I phoned Fuji Australia – who were very nice about it, the person I spoke to checked, then said tripod mounts aren’t a Warranty claim, if damaged, and that these days, people don’t use old-fashioned tripods much, anyway. However, if it did crack while in Warranty, take it back to the shop, and they’d “have a look at it”, and maybe fix it under Warranty or at reduced cost.
Part of the “problem” seems to be that the tripod mounting thread is in a plastic case molding, and the entire camera has to be disassembled and part of the case replaced to fix it….
All of which seems to be pretty woeful thinking and design in a well over $500.00 camera ($545.00 in Sydney.) A metal thread with grommet that screws into the camera-frame – and can be unscrewed and replaced for a few dollars by the user, like a lot of other cameras, would be better.
Let’s see if they fixed it in the HS20 – another camera likely to spend quite a lot of time on a tripod.
Dave.
- Further to the HS10 plastic tripod mount setup – it clearly isn’t supported inside the camera, as it is only part of the plastic case, and is much too close to the battery door.
Both of those facts make it “inadequate for intended use”, as a long-zoom camera will be frequently used on a tripod. So, after some phoning around, it seems that any cracking will make it subject to examination by the Consumer Tribunal, here in Australia.
They can enforce “repair to a level adequate for intended use”, or require a full refund of purchase price.
When Moose has his pre-production HS20 for us to discuss, he will be able to inform us as to whether the HS20 has a proper internally supported metal tripod mount.
If it doesn’t, Fuji should state clearly that if/when it cracks, they “will” replace it under Warranty, as many times as needed.
With that in mind, buyers in places like Australia, which only get 12-months Warranty with cameras, might look at paying the extra for 1-3 years extended Warranty, as the tripod-mount replacement is apparently rather expensive outside Warranty.
It would be difficult for Fuji to claim that metal tripod mounts “can’t” be used in over-$450.00 cameras – I have an older Canon SX10 with a very substantial metal mount, and that’s been continued in the SX20 and SX30 – as well as in other Brands.
HS10 users who put their cameras on tripods might consider using the neck-strap or another “tether” to anchor the camera to the tripod, in case the plastic mount fails, and dumps the camera onto a hard surface. With Fuji’s attitude to the mount, it’s unlikely they’d rebuild the camera if that happened, so it would be an expensive incident.
This tripod mount problem isn’t “trivial” – and could be a “decider” for many folk who intend to use their long-zoom camera on a tripod.
The entire problem could be avoided, if Fuji realised that people ARE going to use their long-zoom cameras on “old fashioned tripods that people don’t use much” – and built-in a “suitable for intended use” metal mount – which might cost $10.00 or so.
If the HS20 has the same plastic tripod mount as the HS10, even if Fuji has fixed some of the HS10′s other problems, I wouldn’t consider selling my HS10 and upgrading – and it’d be hard to recommend it to friends and others… There are a lot of tripod users around – and the HS10/20 needs tripod for Video, anyway.
Dave.
The “playback” and “menu/ok” buttons on my HS10 started wearing off at the 2 month mark also. My camera was also made in Indonesia.
I love the HS10 for its natural colors, especially in daylight. I have wowed people with its sharp and natural looking portraits. The only problem: it does (I am) terrible in indoor or poor lighting conditions. I believe this may be true with any point and shoot camera,whether advance or not. What I would like to know is, how can I better my chances of improving picture quality in low-light conditions with the HS10?
Obviously the major improvement would be to get an external flash for indoor shots. But outdoor, you’ll need a tripod for sure, you could consider using a higher ISO (400+) which would make the camera more light sensitive, therefore decreasing shutter time. You could also try using the HS10s low light advance features (refer to manual). This setting takes four images and stacks them, attempting to reduce blur and noise. But if you ask me it’s better to use manual control. Just play about, the best way to learn is by experimenting.
Moose – Would it be possible to ask Fuji why they don’t provide on-CD software for Linux?
Certainly in North America and EU, and some other regions, a majority use Microsoft’s Windows. However, Fuji amongst other camera makers does also provide software for Apple’s Mac systems.
There might be more Mac users than Linux users in North America and the EU, but outside those areas, there are millions more Linux users than Mac users.
Worldwide, Linux has hugely more users than Mac. Linux users do buy Fuji cameras – I’m one of them.
The impression Fuji gives – if not intended – is that if Fuji camera buyers don’t have Windows or a Mac – they should “obtain” a copy of Windows to run the Fuji software.
Yes, in Linux you can indeed run Windows in Virtual Box (virtual machine) – but I doubt that folk are going to pay hundreds of dollars to legitimately buy current Windows to run some software, if that’s the only thing they’d use it for….
Also – isn’t it about time that Fuji offered DNG as an alternative RAW save mode? On this, Linux does have an advantage over Windows, as with each new Fuji version of RAF RAW, the folk who look after DCRAW update it very quickly, while on Windows side, users wait a long time for the commercial software makers to catch up.
It isn’t that Adobe doesn’t allow camera makers to add DNG to cameras as an alternative – and much more software compatible in Windows – RAW save mode – Pentax has offered RAW saves in PEF or DNG for years.
Dave.
Great question, I’ve often wondered this myself. Next time I talk to my Fuji rep, I’ll pass this question on to him and report back.
- Moose
Guide to the HS10 – I am a new user to SLR and have only used simple point and shoot compacts in the past. I am totally confused with all the dials and buttons – where is a good place to start?
Kristell, this is a reply from our consumate, kind and patient in-house forum guru. It may help. Norman
“David Doak
January 9, 2011 at 4:04 am
Peter – From your questions, I’m guessing that you’re coming from a more midrange camera mostly used on Auto, so at first a much more adjustable camera can be just a bit confusing.
But – with such a generous wife – you’ll be keen on getting some images to show her. You can’t just leap in and know everything instantly, so by taking things gradually, you’ll soon get the idea of making adjustments and “telling the camera what to do”.
The HS10 isn’t at all at its best using Auto, so use Program – where the camera still does most of the settings, but you do have some control. You can set up Program so it’s “semi-automatic” but within a range suited to snapshots outdoors or well-lit indoors.
Put the camera in front of you on a table, and turn it on. Switch the Mode Dial – the large labelled one on the right, to P-Program. Tilt the LCD out so you can see it clearly.
There are 5 small buttons down the left side. Press and hold the top one, ISO. Now turn the Command Dial until on the displayed bar, until you’ve selected “Auto 800″. That puts the camera in an ISO range where it can choose from ISO 100 to 800, and won’t go too high for general use. Release the button and it will hold that setting.
Leave the next 3 buttons down at factory setting. The bottom one, White Balance, hold in, and for present purposes, set that to Auto.
The camera will now select Aperture, Shutter, and White Balance settings for you, and won’t “run away” on ISO settings as it can do in Auto.
With a smaller and lighter camera, you might have been used to using the LCD only. Trying to hold the HS10 out in front of you and keep it steady, particularly when using the zoom, is quite awkward. Use the Viewfinder. Turn the EVF/LCD “Auto-Switcher” Off, before it really annoys you. That’s third down on Page 3 of the Setup Menu.
You’ll now be able to take general-purpose snapshots. When you use the Shutter button, wait until the camera Beeps at half-down to focus, before you continue down to take the shot.
You’ll want to learn about doing other settings, but first find out how cameras actually use Light. There’s a relationship between ISO, Aperture, and Shutter Speed, that’s often called the “Light Triangle”.
You can find out about that on many sites, by Googling “Digital Camera Tutorials”. But a site that does this one clearly and well, is “Cambridge in Colour”. Get that site up. Two thirds down the page, it lists, with a blue triangle icon, “Camera Exposure: Aperture, ISO and Shutter Speed”.
That’s a good place to start, but there are many, many others.
A very good book to buy, is Bryan Peterson’s “Understanding Exposure”. The Third Edition is just out late last year, revised to apply to digital cameras.
Dave”.
again, thank you Norman – I will try and ‘digest’!
I have the HS10 and am considering buying the ac adaptor instead of u